simba
Sleeping Dragon
Gr..
ya there is a Grey/black film on the base of the Envelope and then around the ring at the base.
there not suposed to rattle.. from the base
theres 2 reasons that could be...
1. at the Nipple Green part where the wire wraps around it some arent tight but thats ok..some are loose goose's, as long as u dont use them as Drum Sticks you are ok (that kinda pounding with the lil movement that is there the welds would break)
2. some cmhs threw shipping have a bit of the glass where the machine actually holds it during Mfring. and is fragile.
its no issue for us..(there is no metal inside the base, it has to be that glass)
well i guess theres 3
3. u see some kinda chunks rolling around..
Call the shop u got it from.. Warranty it out, or let them know, so when or if it does cause an issue they will cover you.
but if u shake it a lil u will hear if its the green tip or the base..
whether its been fired before is not a concern. (pre-burned are best anyways)
No mfr really Preburns there lamps its not worth it for them.. However Few Dist are Pre-Burning Now cause of Lamp failures the day they arive. and that wastes Small companies money so its worth it for them to pre-burn
what you have to concern yourself with is how many hours is on it or if its been threw the ringer. if it has been pre-burned or u think its used.
what to look for in a new or pre-burned (Typ 12-24 hours in one or 2 cycles)
is a clean arc tube
Clear White Translucent arc tube (no Blackened ends)
the ends of the arc tube might look odd but thats the Resin they use to glue the arc tube together.
there are many ways a CMH can fail. some are Totally visible some are not.
1-4 are prety much guaranteed Warranty 5 is explained
1. the arc tube will leak from the ends of arc tube from a small hole in the seal and the inside of the envelope will be fogged or coated over.
2. the arc tube electrodes seal will fail from any # of reasons and the Resin Bursts out(looks like it was soldered..badly really bad like globs on the rod not just the exact end, and theres prob a few black specs on the inside of the envelope, the green tip will be darker from that, and the glass might be darker aswell (tinted from the black smoke))
3. Huge chunks of glass floating around in the arc tube area( iin the part u can see not in the base)
4. arc tube rupture and Blows in any direction.. (ya for Open Fixture rated Philips CMH)
5. Tripy Colored Arc tubes (goes from Yellow to black) i had a few good pics but i dont have a clue where i saved them..
that can be from Mfr Defect but primarly age or from ballast Issues or Cycling the lamp to fast ( Hz to high 200+, or crappy wave IE Electronic Ballasts)
(with age ur calling a year after purchase, so its obv its not defective and philips does know they check to improve on them Supposedly LOL)
but in short in in doubt call the seller and ask is my chit used or is this normal looks..
but urs is new..
Sid, Az and i do.. ( i think he has 150s in cmh or was it only 10k mh)
whats the Q,
oh if you have them make sure you have a Pulse rated medium Socket (if its reg screw type (ed17) dont use reg light socket u need medium HID socket.> its a must others will short or Crack and there goes your light falling to the ground while hot.. u have no protection then from fire..
ya there is a Grey/black film on the base of the Envelope and then around the ring at the base.
there not suposed to rattle.. from the base
theres 2 reasons that could be...
1. at the Nipple Green part where the wire wraps around it some arent tight but thats ok..some are loose goose's, as long as u dont use them as Drum Sticks you are ok (that kinda pounding with the lil movement that is there the welds would break)
2. some cmhs threw shipping have a bit of the glass where the machine actually holds it during Mfring. and is fragile.
its no issue for us..(there is no metal inside the base, it has to be that glass)
well i guess theres 3
3. u see some kinda chunks rolling around..
Call the shop u got it from.. Warranty it out, or let them know, so when or if it does cause an issue they will cover you.
but if u shake it a lil u will hear if its the green tip or the base..
whether its been fired before is not a concern. (pre-burned are best anyways)
No mfr really Preburns there lamps its not worth it for them.. However Few Dist are Pre-Burning Now cause of Lamp failures the day they arive. and that wastes Small companies money so its worth it for them to pre-burn
what you have to concern yourself with is how many hours is on it or if its been threw the ringer. if it has been pre-burned or u think its used.
what to look for in a new or pre-burned (Typ 12-24 hours in one or 2 cycles)
is a clean arc tube
Clear White Translucent arc tube (no Blackened ends)
the ends of the arc tube might look odd but thats the Resin they use to glue the arc tube together.
there are many ways a CMH can fail. some are Totally visible some are not.
1-4 are prety much guaranteed Warranty 5 is explained
1. the arc tube will leak from the ends of arc tube from a small hole in the seal and the inside of the envelope will be fogged or coated over.
2. the arc tube electrodes seal will fail from any # of reasons and the Resin Bursts out(looks like it was soldered..badly really bad like globs on the rod not just the exact end, and theres prob a few black specs on the inside of the envelope, the green tip will be darker from that, and the glass might be darker aswell (tinted from the black smoke))
3. Huge chunks of glass floating around in the arc tube area( iin the part u can see not in the base)
4. arc tube rupture and Blows in any direction.. (ya for Open Fixture rated Philips CMH)
5. Tripy Colored Arc tubes (goes from Yellow to black) i had a few good pics but i dont have a clue where i saved them..
that can be from Mfr Defect but primarly age or from ballast Issues or Cycling the lamp to fast ( Hz to high 200+, or crappy wave IE Electronic Ballasts)
(with age ur calling a year after purchase, so its obv its not defective and philips does know they check to improve on them Supposedly LOL)
but in short in in doubt call the seller and ask is my chit used or is this normal looks..
but urs is new..
Sid, Az and i do.. ( i think he has 150s in cmh or was it only 10k mh)
whats the Q,
oh if you have them make sure you have a Pulse rated medium Socket (if its reg screw type (ed17) dont use reg light socket u need medium HID socket.> its a must others will short or Crack and there goes your light falling to the ground while hot.. u have no protection then from fire..
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Y
yamaha_1fan
Azeotrope said:
Ground? Nah I am the adventurous type.
J/K, yes 12/2 plus a ground.
simba said:
Sorry i didn't explained well. I found why it rattles:
In the red circle, you can see a small metal circle wich isn't secured and moves a bit... rattling...
Anyhow i fired the lamp and seems working... Just it flash...
My old HPS didn't do this... It's like: full power, half power, full power, half power...
You just see some flickering with your eyes... but in photo it comes out...
In the first minute it was stronger... and reduced with time... have i to warry?
Anyhow here some photos that will make you understand:
G
Guest
Some CMH results. Most are about 7-9days in to 12/12 under 2X400w Phillips CMH. Organice mix. Johnny Blaze and Willijuana and one sick (my last) re-vegged clone of my Asia Girl X nl5haze cross. 
Threw in a shot of a JB bud and my homemade filter.
Threw in a shot of a JB bud and my homemade filter.
Hi...Azeotrope..Azeotrope said:
About 6 1/2 weeks along. I guess we're heading down the home stretch, so to speak; the fan leaves are getting the nitrogen sucked out. Fairly normal for white widows.
This has been a low effort grow on my part. Just dropped the seeds and let them grow. I did pollenate the lower bud sites, on one plant; wanted to make some seeds. I never did that before, hope I didn't fu*k it up.
Just water and molasses, until harvest.
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T
TheOneWill
Where do you get CMH lights?
http://advancedtechlighting.com/cdmed18.htm
Without asking, mine came as stealth as could be. Simple brown box, no ads. Other than the label and a fragile sticker, just one small handwritten notation "250H" as in 250 watt horizontal
Without asking, mine came as stealth as could be. Simple brown box, no ads. Other than the label and a fragile sticker, just one small handwritten notation "250H" as in 250 watt horizontal
Smaller bulb warning!
250 and larger use a HPS ballast but 150 and smaller use MH ballasts (as well as non mogul bases)
250 and larger use a HPS ballast but 150 and smaller use MH ballasts (as well as non mogul bases)
Laura Kush
Member
How close can I put a 400 W UN-COOLED CMH to 5-6 week plants?
My temps are 78 F 12 inches away from the tops.
My temps are 78 F 12 inches away from the tops.
G
Guest
Naturally -
The HPS bulbs (horti included) are not stronger on the red end. They actually leave out a large and important section in the far red. Not to say that the HPS bulbs would hurt.
The HPS bulbs (horti included) are not stronger on the red end. They actually leave out a large and important section in the far red. Not to say that the HPS bulbs would hurt.
Anghellic
Member
Phew.... 20 pages later here I am. Ok loving these things, defiantly gonna be ordering a 250w for my new cab. Only issue I'm having is cool tube vs open hood. How many of you have pulled off an open hood in something like a 2x2x5' cab? How much difference does it REALLY make? 
I really need to take advantage of that UV output, and don't really want to put some glass around it, otherwise ill always know I'm missing the full potential of this new technology
. I'll try an open hood first. I'll hopefully be sufficient with a small fan blowing onto an open air cooled hood, 150 cfm Whisper Fan, with a nice 8" darkroom louver. Looking great people.
I really need to take advantage of that UV output, and don't really want to put some glass around it, otherwise ill always know I'm missing the full potential of this new technology
. I'll try an open hood first. I'll hopefully be sufficient with a small fan blowing onto an open air cooled hood, 150 cfm Whisper Fan, with a nice 8" darkroom louver. Looking great people.
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simba
Sleeping Dragon
Laura, depends on ambient temp, and when u say uncooled i assume u still have Canopy airflow, if so u can go a bit lower but at this time in its life it prob cant use much more than its allready getting the lower height comes into play during flower and plays even bigger role as end of life of plant nears..(as can take more abuse and u want more pen and can get it cause the low heat throw, just young there young)
Nat,, ya hps especially horti hps are pumped with Yellow output For lumen rating.. whereas cmh goes up as it goes to infared,
maybe a 400 cmh with 250 hps but costs vs yeild.. I dont have an Tested answer yet..
PB Looking Yummy, Id eat one dem nugs right off her.. let us know the potency vs your old lamp..
Ang, 2x2 is small but a 250 would work in there.. get a quad ray reflector, Cheap version of Fggg. i forgot brand name, your going to be pushing it for heat with no active cooling
you dont really need the glass in the air cooled hood for cmh.. just seal up the vents on the side expect your exit so it pulls from below and pull the hot air out threw the exit vent..
(the reason we need glass with hps is cause it helps stop some of that THROWN heat Not much but some, and since the hps cooks it holds that extra heat in the hood and allows it only to the venting..
whereas on CMH it does dump good heat 75+% of it is straight up off the arc tube.. in reality if you only had a 4"vent pipe with a exhaust fan directly over the arc tube that would drop temps down..
Nat,, ya hps especially horti hps are pumped with Yellow output For lumen rating.. whereas cmh goes up as it goes to infared,
maybe a 400 cmh with 250 hps but costs vs yeild.. I dont have an Tested answer yet..
PB Looking Yummy, Id eat one dem nugs right off her.. let us know the potency vs your old lamp..
Ang, 2x2 is small but a 250 would work in there.. get a quad ray reflector, Cheap version of Fggg. i forgot brand name, your going to be pushing it for heat with no active cooling
you dont really need the glass in the air cooled hood for cmh.. just seal up the vents on the side expect your exit so it pulls from below and pull the hot air out threw the exit vent..
(the reason we need glass with hps is cause it helps stop some of that THROWN heat Not much but some, and since the hps cooks it holds that extra heat in the hood and allows it only to the venting..
whereas on CMH it does dump good heat 75+% of it is straight up off the arc tube.. in reality if you only had a 4"vent pipe with a exhaust fan directly over the arc tube that would drop temps down..
