DesertFlower
New member
I would like to gow outdoors but I live in the desert it gets about 110 in the summer.. maybe a little hotter....is there anyway to grow outdoors in weather like this? and if so then how??
Can you grow outdoors in the Desert?
- Thread starter DesertFlower
- Start date
plant near a well......'cuz seriously, yer gonna have literally stand-over them all day watering and making sure no wilt occurs.
anything over 100 is scary, but Cannabis is a tough plant and will do fine if fed enough.
it may not be worth it to grow big your first year. instead, test the waters so to speak
put a few mature plants out (make sure to harden them off gradually into the full sun)
and keep track of how often they need a drink. this will give you the upper-hand next season and you can design an automated drip fertigation system that runs off a reservoir or even your plumbing.
healthy plants will do fine. thirsty plants wont live a day out there, and sick plants will have a hard time recovering if the humidity is too low. so hope your grow skills are in check!
other than that you can indeed grow in 110 degree heat, if the right precautions are taken. the plants will love the big open sky (sun) but again, and i stress, MONITOR THEM at least 4 or 5 times a day to start, and water them as needed. dont ever let them cans dry up fully....it gives you no slack should you forget to feed them.
sincerely hope ths helps have a good day
anything over 100 is scary, but Cannabis is a tough plant and will do fine if fed enough.
it may not be worth it to grow big your first year. instead, test the waters so to speak
put a few mature plants out (make sure to harden them off gradually into the full sun)
and keep track of how often they need a drink. this will give you the upper-hand next season and you can design an automated drip fertigation system that runs off a reservoir or even your plumbing.
healthy plants will do fine. thirsty plants wont live a day out there, and sick plants will have a hard time recovering if the humidity is too low. so hope your grow skills are in check!
other than that you can indeed grow in 110 degree heat, if the right precautions are taken. the plants will love the big open sky (sun) but again, and i stress, MONITOR THEM at least 4 or 5 times a day to start, and water them as needed. dont ever let them cans dry up fully....it gives you no slack should you forget to feed them.
sincerely hope ths helps
have a good day
also,
also,
plant where you see other plants thriving. if you see largish shrubs it is a good indicator that there are underground water reserves close enough for it's roots to find and drink from. same for cannabis. so utilize these areas instead of using containers. dig large deep pits and fill them with a balanced well-aged organic soil mix.
cans are nice, if you have the automated irrigation, but again, planting to the ground in areas with other vegetation is your best/only bet.
once established (once they have found that underground water) your job will become much easier--less waterings, less worries.
lastly, grow something strong and resistant. not an old degraded inbred line or anything--
eg: i had a garden two or three years ago at a friend's place, in containers on his deck, of mixed varieties. in it were a few plants out of this old NL line which over the years of inbreeding lost all it's resistance to drought and pests. so while all the others flourished mid-summer, the NL's were wilting every day till they were fed, and were covered in bugs. one of the NL eventually died (biggest bush we had that year) due to me over sleeping and not getting down to the grow in time to water. so be careful what strains you choose to put out there.
if you grow indoor pick a strain(s) with hardy, leathery leaves (best water-holding capacity) and nice thick stems (better nutrient/water uptake). feed the plants enough potassium so that it makes these delivery routes stronger (fattens stems and increases plants' resistance.*
*Dyna-gro brand makes a product called Pro-TeKt. this potassium silicate supplement may help your plants thrive throughout the harsh summer.
really though, its up to you, the human, to give them what they need (water and love) daily, as Cannabis is not a plant native to the desert. manipulation is the name of the game. mimic it's natural habitat and you will do fine.
a greenhouse would help in gettin humidity to regular levels out there and preventing too harsh sun conditions at noon, and sand storms if you get those.
hope everything works out man! feel free to ask any questions any time, or send a private message if you feel too silly posting. glad to help.
be well
also,
plant where you see other plants thriving. if you see largish shrubs it is a good indicator that there are underground water reserves close enough for it's roots to find and drink from. same for cannabis. so utilize these areas instead of using containers. dig large deep pits and fill them with a balanced well-aged organic soil mix.
cans are nice, if you have the automated irrigation, but again, planting to the ground in areas with other vegetation is your best/only bet.
once established (once they have found that underground water) your job will become much easier--less waterings, less worries.
lastly, grow something strong and resistant. not an old degraded inbred line or anything--
eg: i had a garden two or three years ago at a friend's place, in containers on his deck, of mixed varieties. in it were a few plants out of this old NL line which over the years of inbreeding lost all it's resistance to drought and pests. so while all the others flourished mid-summer, the NL's were wilting every day till they were fed, and were covered in bugs. one of the NL eventually died (biggest bush we had that year) due to me over sleeping and not getting down to the grow in time to water. so be careful what strains you choose to put out there.
if you grow indoor pick a strain(s) with hardy, leathery leaves (best water-holding capacity) and nice thick stems (better nutrient/water uptake). feed the plants enough potassium so that it makes these delivery routes stronger (fattens stems and increases plants' resistance.*
*Dyna-gro brand makes a product called Pro-TeKt. this potassium silicate supplement may help your plants thrive throughout the harsh summer.
really though, its up to you, the human, to give them what they need (water and love) daily, as Cannabis is not a plant native to the desert. manipulation is the name of the game. mimic it's natural habitat and you will do fine.
a greenhouse would help in gettin humidity to regular levels out there and preventing too harsh sun conditions at noon, and sand storms if you get those.
hope everything works out man! feel free to ask any questions any time, or send a private message if you feel too silly posting. glad to help.
be well
ethereal said:plant near a well......'cuz seriously,
yer gonna have ta literally stand-over them all day watering and making sure no wilt occurs.
anything over 100 is scary, but Cannabis is a tough plant and will do fine if fed enough.
it may not be worth it to grow big your first year. instead, test the waters so to speak
put a few mature plants out (make sure to harden them off gradually into the full sun)
and keep track of how often they need a drink. this will give you the upper-hand next season and you can design an automated drip fertigation system that runs off a reservoir or even your plumbing.
healthy plants will do fine. thirsty plants wont live a day out there, and sick plants will have a hard time recovering if the humidity is too low. so hope your grow skills are in check!
other than that you can indeed grow in 110 degree heat, if the right precautions are taken. the plants will love the big open sky (sun) but again, and i stress, MONITOR THEM at least 4 or 5 times a day to start, and water them as needed. dont ever let them cans dry up fully....it gives you no slack should you forget to feed them.
sincerely hope ths helps
youll have to keep on the water. ive grown plants in 115 degree weather and they couldnt have looked happier. i also did a foliar spray with plain water a few times a day.
elevate: it gets over 105 here in cali A LOT. i remember last year there was like almost 40 days straight with over 100 degrees. and the nugs never were weak.
elevate: it gets over 105 here in cali A LOT. i remember last year there was like almost 40 days straight with over 100 degrees. and the nugs never were weak.
its kurmit
Member
as everyone has stated water is gonna b ur main issue, also keeping nutrients in the soil will b a problem since your water so much they can wash away to a point, idk if this is true or not but i think common sense would tell u to get afghani strains b/c of the climate they come from
You can do it, and if you can't, let your experience teach you otherwise, not just input from folks on forums. When I moved where I am, (high elevation, very arid) I was told by seasoned outdoor growers who I respect that I couldn't do it. I found that I absolutely can, just took a few seasons to dial in.
When it comes to outdoor growing, take all advice with a grain of salt because everyone's situation is different. After five years in YOUR spot, YOU'll be the expert in YOUR spot. Just experiment and get it dialed in.
Good luck!
When it comes to outdoor growing, take all advice with a grain of salt because everyone's situation is different. After five years in YOUR spot, YOU'll be the expert in YOUR spot. Just experiment and get it dialed in.
Good luck!
elevate
Member
well here is a passage from a grow guide (published book) which evaluates research on temperature in correlation to potency. ENJOY.
Temperature and Potency
Since marijuana varieties are most often grown in semi-tropical and tropical areas, the idea that high temperatures are necessary for potent marijuana is firmly entrenched in marijuana lore. This myth, like many others, is slowly disappearing as marijuana farmers and researchers accumulate more experience and knowledge. There are only a few published papers on the effects of temperature on potency. The best study we've seen 19 grew four different varieties in a controlled environment under artificial lights on a 15-hour day-length. Two temperature regimes were used: a "warm" regime, with temperatures of about 73F during the day and 61F at night (about average for most homes); and a "hot" regime, set at 90F daytime and 73F at night. In all four varieties, the concentration of THC and of total cannabinoids was higher under the "warm" regime. For instance, a Nepalese strain was 3.4 times higher in concentration of total cannabinoids, and 4.4 times higher in THC, when grown under the "warm" regime than the same strain grown under the "hot" regime. Although we agree with the findings in principle, these figures are higher than our experience tells us.
Interpretation of the data does show one point clearly. In all four varieties, the amount of THC lost as CBN was higher under the "hot" regime (see Table 16 - currently excluded from this guide), even though the concentration of THC was higher under the "warm" regime.
Another research group in France has looked at the relationship of potency to temperature. The most recent paper 79 compared four temperature regimes, given in descending order of potencies found: 75F day, 75F night (highest potency); 72F day, 54F night; 81F day, 81F night; and 90F day, 54F night (lowest concentration of THC). In each, the day period was 16 hours and the night period eight hours.
Interestingly, this same research group in an earlier paper 20 reported that the concentration of THC was higher for male plants grown at 90-72F then for those grown at 72-54F. For the female plants, the differences in THC concentration were small. The variety used was a propyl variety (type IV) containing about half as much THCV as THC. For both the male and female plants, the concentration of THCV were high under the 90-72F regime.
The simplest interpretation of all these results is that mild temperatures seem to be optimum for potency. Temperatures over 90F or below 60F seem to decrease the concentration of THC and total cannabinoids. Also, at higher temperatures, much more THC will be lost as CBN. And last, propyl varieties may produce less THCV under a cool regime. Bear in mind that none of these papers accounted for all of the many variables that could have affected the findings. For instance, the concentration of THC was 18 times higher at 75-75F than at 90-54F. We've never seen differences of this magnitude, and sampling error undoubtedly influenced the findings.
In terms of growth rate and potency, daily temperatures of about 75F, give or take a few degrees, are roughly optimum. Normal household temperatures are in the low 70's during daytime and the low 60's at night. The heat from a light system will raise the garden's temperature a few degrees. In most gardens temperatures will be near 75F during the day. Night-time temperatures drop about 10 to 15 degrees. When night-time temperatures drop into the 50's or below, set the light cycle to turn on during the early morning, when the temperature will be lowest. In a small room, the light system will generate enough heat to warm the garden without any need for a heater. Whenever you wish to raise the temperature by, say, five or 10 degrees, it is better to add more lights than a heater. The plants will benefit from the additional light, as well as from the heat they generate. And an electric heater, watt for watt, doesn't generate much more heat than a lamp and its fixture.
Temperature and Potency
Since marijuana varieties are most often grown in semi-tropical and tropical areas, the idea that high temperatures are necessary for potent marijuana is firmly entrenched in marijuana lore. This myth, like many others, is slowly disappearing as marijuana farmers and researchers accumulate more experience and knowledge. There are only a few published papers on the effects of temperature on potency. The best study we've seen 19 grew four different varieties in a controlled environment under artificial lights on a 15-hour day-length. Two temperature regimes were used: a "warm" regime, with temperatures of about 73F during the day and 61F at night (about average for most homes); and a "hot" regime, set at 90F daytime and 73F at night. In all four varieties, the concentration of THC and of total cannabinoids was higher under the "warm" regime. For instance, a Nepalese strain was 3.4 times higher in concentration of total cannabinoids, and 4.4 times higher in THC, when grown under the "warm" regime than the same strain grown under the "hot" regime. Although we agree with the findings in principle, these figures are higher than our experience tells us.
Interpretation of the data does show one point clearly. In all four varieties, the amount of THC lost as CBN was higher under the "hot" regime (see Table 16 - currently excluded from this guide), even though the concentration of THC was higher under the "warm" regime.
Another research group in France has looked at the relationship of potency to temperature. The most recent paper 79 compared four temperature regimes, given in descending order of potencies found: 75F day, 75F night (highest potency); 72F day, 54F night; 81F day, 81F night; and 90F day, 54F night (lowest concentration of THC). In each, the day period was 16 hours and the night period eight hours.
Interestingly, this same research group in an earlier paper 20 reported that the concentration of THC was higher for male plants grown at 90-72F then for those grown at 72-54F. For the female plants, the differences in THC concentration were small. The variety used was a propyl variety (type IV) containing about half as much THCV as THC. For both the male and female plants, the concentration of THCV were high under the 90-72F regime.
The simplest interpretation of all these results is that mild temperatures seem to be optimum for potency. Temperatures over 90F or below 60F seem to decrease the concentration of THC and total cannabinoids. Also, at higher temperatures, much more THC will be lost as CBN. And last, propyl varieties may produce less THCV under a cool regime. Bear in mind that none of these papers accounted for all of the many variables that could have affected the findings. For instance, the concentration of THC was 18 times higher at 75-75F than at 90-54F. We've never seen differences of this magnitude, and sampling error undoubtedly influenced the findings.
In terms of growth rate and potency, daily temperatures of about 75F, give or take a few degrees, are roughly optimum. Normal household temperatures are in the low 70's during daytime and the low 60's at night. The heat from a light system will raise the garden's temperature a few degrees. In most gardens temperatures will be near 75F during the day. Night-time temperatures drop about 10 to 15 degrees. When night-time temperatures drop into the 50's or below, set the light cycle to turn on during the early morning, when the temperature will be lowest. In a small room, the light system will generate enough heat to warm the garden without any need for a heater. Whenever you wish to raise the temperature by, say, five or 10 degrees, it is better to add more lights than a heater. The plants will benefit from the additional light, as well as from the heat they generate. And an electric heater, watt for watt, doesn't generate much more heat than a lamp and its fixture.
Fast_Pine
Member
Herrrrrrm....Excuse meeeeeee...But we grow some killer buds out here..I would be willing to take the "pepsi challenge" any old day against you cocky cali boys....elevate said:
Oh and by the way..Out here at 8000 feet in the desert we can pull cali size plants in half the time it takes you guys..Intense sun will do wonders..Have fun down there at sea level..
This makes me wanna do a grow journal, just to set the record straight...
New Mexico, Arizona...The southwest will produce just as good as the west coast..
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well to be smart this is where home brewed teas would come in. less in the soil more in the water. but of course you wont feed everytime. the best way to get a strain to localize would be grow 100 and watch the weaklings die, continue with the ones that live and cross them for a few years. damn that pot will be hella bomb by then.
hey hey now good bud can be grown anywhere lets not get crazy, it depends on what you treat them. maybe what elevate means is the majority of nugs in AZ compared to CA. i do know mj is mad illegal there so havin huuuge bushes i give u props. the 8000 ft is an advantage man those extra uv rays do help a bit.
hello desertflower,
if you are able, you may want to consider trying to use some kind of semi-shaded greenhouse roof, no walls though. the roof will serve to reduce temps under it, the plants will still get enough sunlight, even if it doesn't get all the sun daylight directly.
the roof structure can also serve you to hook water sprayers and other hose/drip systems to water and affect humidity within the roof area, also helps keep temps. down. just some ideas. good luck.
peace
if you are able, you may want to consider trying to use some kind of semi-shaded greenhouse roof, no walls though. the roof will serve to reduce temps under it, the plants will still get enough sunlight, even if it doesn't get all the sun daylight directly.
the roof structure can also serve you to hook water sprayers and other hose/drip systems to water and affect humidity within the roof area, also helps keep temps. down. just some ideas. good luck.
peace
True!
True!
I live where the temps can get around 110 degrees F (they are near that now, with the heat wave). As long as you keep the plants watered they do fine. You will see the ends of the big leaves brown up a little from sun burn. This is UNAVOIDABLE. It will not affect growth or flowering. Use ordinary outdoor potting soil, with about an inch and a half of mulch.
I water on a three day schedule, always watering in the evenings - while the temps are still above 75-80 degrees, but the sun has gone down.
Starting with the second set of leaves on a seedling, I water first day with fertilizer (MiracleGro), second day plain water, third day no water. If temps go above 95, I will add a cup of plain water directly to the base of the stem on the third day. By the fourth day, the soil is dry and absorbs a lot of the nutrients from the fertilizer. When I water, I only add enough until I see water coming out the base. Then I wait a half hour and add the rest. For five plants outside, I use 1 3/4 gallons water in 3 gallon plastic pots. Make sure the pots are light colored, black pots in the heat will cook and will not absorb nutrients as quickly. Do not overwater!!!!
When flowering, use bone meal for a booster. I also will use cheesecloth as a sunscreen in the afternoons if I feel it is still too hot. Morning sun is cooler and will not harm the plant.
Remember that sativas and mostly hybrid sativas will do best. They evolved in a more arid environment. Indicas also will do fine, but you will need to prune large leaves off about two weeks into flowering to keep buds nice and big. I don't know why this is, but it helps - way more than on the sativas.
True!
I live where the temps can get around 110 degrees F (they are near that now, with the heat wave). As long as you keep the plants watered they do fine. You will see the ends of the big leaves brown up a little from sun burn. This is UNAVOIDABLE. It will not affect growth or flowering. Use ordinary outdoor potting soil, with about an inch and a half of mulch.
I water on a three day schedule, always watering in the evenings - while the temps are still above 75-80 degrees, but the sun has gone down.
Starting with the second set of leaves on a seedling, I water first day with fertilizer (MiracleGro), second day plain water, third day no water. If temps go above 95, I will add a cup of plain water directly to the base of the stem on the third day. By the fourth day, the soil is dry and absorbs a lot of the nutrients from the fertilizer. When I water, I only add enough until I see water coming out the base. Then I wait a half hour and add the rest. For five plants outside, I use 1 3/4 gallons water in 3 gallon plastic pots. Make sure the pots are light colored, black pots in the heat will cook and will not absorb nutrients as quickly. Do not overwater!!!!
When flowering, use bone meal for a booster. I also will use cheesecloth as a sunscreen in the afternoons if I feel it is still too hot. Morning sun is cooler and will not harm the plant.
Remember that sativas and mostly hybrid sativas will do best. They evolved in a more arid environment. Indicas also will do fine, but you will need to prune large leaves off about two weeks into flowering to keep buds nice and big. I don't know why this is, but it helps - way more than on the sativas.
eastbeast
Member
We did a grow in the desert a few years ago. It's a little bit tricky to say the least.
The only way I'd do it again is if the plants were on my property within a very short walking distance from my house.
Obviously water is your main concern, and I think a Blumat system is the way to go. It's a real pain watering 2-3 times a day.
Then there's the heat. Since there aren't alot of trees to obstruct sunlight in the desert, sun exposure isn't a problem. You should get plenty of that glorious morning sun! Ahh... morning sun... a guerrilla growers best friend... it makes me miss growing outdoors... A shade cloth would be a good investment for that brutal mid-late afternoon sun.
Wind. We lost most of our young plants due to the wind in the early summer. It just whipped the shit out of them. We had a greenhouse but it was either the insane wind or the 120 degree heat of the greenhouse. A pain in the ass.
Cold nights. We had frosts and even some snow and heavy hail almost until July. A greenhouse here is a good idea too. Again, this involves moving the plants when the heat hits in the afternoon.
You can do it, but it's definitely more labor intensive. The only reason we were able to pull it off is the fact that we were using autoflowering strains which stayed relatively short. They didn't use a ton of water, and the sagebush protected them from the winds and the rippers. Oh and they were easier to move around, which saved our backs.
The only way I'd do it again is if the plants were on my property within a very short walking distance from my house.
Obviously water is your main concern, and I think a Blumat system is the way to go. It's a real pain watering 2-3 times a day.
Then there's the heat. Since there aren't alot of trees to obstruct sunlight in the desert, sun exposure isn't a problem. You should get plenty of that glorious morning sun! Ahh... morning sun... a guerrilla growers best friend... it makes me miss growing outdoors... A shade cloth would be a good investment for that brutal mid-late afternoon sun.
Wind. We lost most of our young plants due to the wind in the early summer. It just whipped the shit out of them. We had a greenhouse but it was either the insane wind or the 120 degree heat of the greenhouse. A pain in the ass.
Cold nights. We had frosts and even some snow and heavy hail almost until July. A greenhouse here is a good idea too. Again, this involves moving the plants when the heat hits in the afternoon.
You can do it, but it's definitely more labor intensive. The only reason we were able to pull it off is the fact that we were using autoflowering strains which stayed relatively short. They didn't use a ton of water, and the sagebush protected them from the winds and the rippers. Oh and they were easier to move around, which saved our backs.
Shield helps
Shield helps
I have a large fence that shields my plants from the wind for the most part. Almost ten feet tall, and shields me from nosy neighbors (although the closest is almost a quarter mile away).
Shield helps
I have a large fence that shields my plants from the wind for the most part. Almost ten feet tall, and shields me from nosy neighbors (although the closest is almost a quarter mile away).
Please do your grow journal. Id love to see your climate compete with californias.
