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Building a Home Made LED

tenthirty

Member
Alright then, XP-E2's run at 3 watts safely.

Also in your graph, that looks pretty damn smooth in the visible spectrum. What maybe 5% distortion?
Sharp ramp at the leading edge and the start of a nice gentle decay.

If I had to assign it a class, it would be a class A.

For those that want to see the graph.

Solar_Spectrum.png
 
I was set on making a led light in the classic knna's ratio of 8 660nm +3 warm white + royal blue, all with Osram Golden Dragon+ leds, but after reading couple of threads I'm no longer sure of anything anymore so if someone can set me straight here:
I'm planing a light for my flower room which cca 48 x 58 cm, 70 cm tall.
I will use Samsung series 3535 5000K and 2700K LEDs, 10 each and 5 cool white cree xp-gs, all driven at 1050 mA. I still have to visit my local scrapyard for the heat sink.
Is this combo of whites good for flower or do I drop couple of whites and throw in some reds as I was thinking or what?
It's been much easier when knna was the only authority on leds. :)
 

tenthirty

Member
repuk, go ahead and order the stuff and go with the 50-50 mix of the ww nw XP-G's and XM-L's. That seems to be the best starting point in IMHO.

Vlad, you are asking the million dollar question. We all want to know the answer.
 

vukman

Active member
Veteran
I was set on making a led light in the classic knna's ratio of 8 660nm +3 warm white + royal blue, all with Osram Golden Dragon+ leds, but after reading couple of threads I'm no longer sure of anything anymore so if someone can set me straight here:
I'm planing a light for my flower room which cca 48 x 58 cm, 70 cm tall.
I will use Samsung series 3535 5000K and 2700K LEDs, 10 each and 5 cool white cree xp-gs, all driven at 1050 mA. I still have to visit my local scrapyard for the heat sink.
Is this combo of whites good for flower or do I drop couple of whites and throw in some reds as I was thinking or what?
It's been much easier when knna was the only authority on leds. :)
as was answered my friend,, that is the million dollar question. The only issue which has truly changed is the fact (I take is as fact) that a full spectrum light (white light) is necessary to promote healthy and vibrant growth.

As to the ratio of what and what to put together, if you stumble upon that 'special' ratio...patent it real quick for you will be a very wealthy individual as soon as your results go public..:)

Now with the dreaming out of the way..I think everyone has their own beliefs as to what the 'ideal' mix and ratio should be. If you include white in the mix, you will not fail. I mean look at how long the industry has been going on just red and blue. It is and forever will be an evolving area of study and growth. As the technology changes and gets better, there will always be someone who comes up with the proverbial 'better mousetrap'

Just my 2 cents worth...

<add edit>........I see I'm not the only one who might have to resort to the ol scrappers for a suitable heat sink.......
 
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PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
cw nw ww in a 1:2:2 should be an excellent starting point. Now, how you lay them out is also a consideration

WHITE POWER
 

tenthirty

Member
Ok.

Long day.........
Well last night I was looking at the plants and noticing the difference of leaf color and signs of deficiencies. The plants under the HML are green from head to toe with slight variation within the leaf, but well within what I would call good.

The plants under the pro grows, for lack of a better description seem to be starting to yellow.

Now what really gets me, is same everything, and the HML plants look noticeably healthier. Also when there was a 1k hps light over both trays, everything stayed green 99% of the time.

Now I had read about how leds cause mg defs, I started noticing that a good portion of the leaves on other peoples led grows look just like mine.
Now what is also interesting is any given individual plant will be showing signs of overfeeding and a deficiency all at once.
There is some range to the look of the herd, but few what I would call super healthy
This has been happening ever scene I started using the pro grows.
Don't get me wrong, they still grow fine plants, but I have yet to get what I would call an A1 specimen out of them, and this would be my 10th run or so with the pro grows.

So the HML plants that have been under it for about 2 weeks, show a much more consistent green, with virtually no yellowing at all.
Too soon to really tell, but I'm leaning to two thumbs up, compared to what I've got. (Pro-grows)

Does every led grower get this kind of response from the plant under multicolor led grow lights?
 

tenthirty

Member
Well, you know, I would like to be able to come up with a way to tune the light more efficiently than the standard, lets mix blue and red diodes to get the proper action spectrum.

When I started this project, I knew virtually nothing about WTF I was doing, other than basic skills and some basic understanding of "life the universe and everything". Hoping the answer was not 42.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/42_%28number%29
I sure as hell didn't know jack about plant biology.

So in steps the stardustsailor thread,
with all of the supporting documentation,
to say "here shit head" Read this and tell me what you think.
Talk about going to the proctologist and having him say cough!

Well now I think I have a rudimentary knowledge of how a plant works........ and a theory on how the plant processes light.
If this is correct, it would explain why (broad band) white leds are the way to go and not discrete colors.

Light is like sound is like radio waves.......Energy is energy. It obeys certain physical laws.

What do you do when you tune in your radio, adjust the tone and the volume? When does it sound right? What if say the vocals are missing, do you replace them in your head?
Us humans are using sound for it's pressure energy as transmitted through the air as interpreted by the speakers.
 

analogue

Member
Does every led grower get this kind of response from the plant under multicolor led grow lights?

Not for me.

I am using a Kessil 350 in the center and some a pair of Cree XP-E neutral whites in the corners.

Vegging under 4 @ XP Neutral Whites (700mA).

I've been using the same basic raw salt recipes for 2 years maybe longer.

Just started with LEDs but have been growing a while, I'm 54.

I can see issues develop if I twiddle with my numbers, which I have just. about. stopped. doing.

But I don't see indicators of increased need for Mg under multicolored or single color LEDs.

When I was vegging with 2x the amount of diodes I'm using now, I saw stunted growth and a lack of cholorophyll production.

Is it possible that a lot of growers are putting LED units very close to the plants canopy, to the point of bleaching, then backing off a tad?

With(if) all things being optimal, I'd look at PAR saturation.
 

vukman

Active member
Veteran
When I started this project, I knew virtually nothing about WTF I was doing, other than basic skills and some basic understanding of "life the universe and everything". Hoping the answer was not 42.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/42_(number)
I sure as hell didn't know jack about plant biology.

Same here my friend, same here.. I owe every word I write here and every bit of knowledge I have gained to someone else's hard work, time and sweat.

I am forever grateful to everyone who has contributed to my education. I wish I was in the financial position to be able to conduct the 'experiments and theories' which I would like to and then have my own conclusions and be able to contribute towards someone else's knowledge.

Thank you one and all.........:thank you:
 

analogue

Member
I'll keep my mind open for the exact location for the reference I am thinking of, but exposure to far red wavelengths -at least in terms of phytochrome - does not have to be plant wide (can be localized).
 

tenthirty

Member
The plant is using light for it's energy, be it wave, particle, charge, or even gravity or mass. (maybe others)
Now unfortunately, I have yet to find any documentation on the exact mode of operation of the plant. Now I do believe that we can make some assumptions.

The plant takes different chemicals/molecules and combines them and splits them to make different chemicals/molecules. Us humans do that too in chemistry labs all the time.
What the two have in common is it takes energy to perform these feats. (and the starting molecules)
Now the energy required to make say bubble hash, vs splitting h2o into hydrogen and O2 is completely different as are the processes.
The plant makes both LOL.
And the plant is extracting that energy from light.
So the the first assumption is,
The plant creates such a broad range of molecules, I can only assume it needs an equally broad spectrum of energy.(or the ability to combine energy)

Now it's time to tend the babies, so I can pick this up later, the question is, this explanation is going to be long and drawn out at best,
and it is difficult, to say the least for me to express this in understandable terms. ( I barely understand a lot of this)
Do you think I should continue down this logic path?
I already know most of the end of the story.
 

analogue

Member
TOO time consuming to understand the last 5 percent :D.

The rest often dribbles in later. Sometimes much later if we're lucky :tiphat:
 

tenthirty

Member
Not for me.

I am using a Kessil 350 in the center and some a pair of Cree XP-E neutral whites in the corners.

Vegging under 4 @ XP Neutral Whites (700mA).

I've been using the same basic raw salt recipes for 2 years maybe longer.

Just started with LEDs but have been growing a while, I'm 54.

I can see issues develop if I twiddle with my numbers, which I have just. about. stopped. doing.

But I don't see indicators of increased need for Mg under multicolored or single color LEDs.

When I was vegging with 2x the amount of diodes I'm using now, I saw stunted growth and a lack of cholorophyll production.

Is it possible that a lot of growers are putting LED units very close to the plants canopy, to the point of bleaching, then backing off a tad?

With(if) all things being optimal, I'd look at PAR saturation.

Analogue, thank you, this is the exact kind of input that I'm looking for.

So the pro-grows at 12" may even be too close. That could stand to reason.

What seem stronger the whites or the Kessil?

Thanks again.
 

tenthirty

Member
TOO time consuming to understand the last 5 percent :D.

The rest often dribbles in later. Sometimes much later if we're lucky :tiphat:

Some times years or even decades.
I'm 54 as well.

Couldn't help myself and got a kill a watt. HML draws 78 watts at the wall.
 

analogue

Member
Analogue, thank you, this is the exact kind of input that I'm looking for.

So the pro-grows at 12" may even be too close. That could stand to reason.

What seem stronger the whites or the Kessil?

Thanks again.


The Kessil. Dense matrix array, a concentrated light source.

It has 72 watts from the wall concentrated in about 67 degrees.

I'm not using lenses on the XP-E whites which are 115 degrees viewing angle.
 
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