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Building a Home Made LED

rrog

Active member
Veteran
This is good stuff tenthirty. What's your opinion of solderless connections to the LEDs? Or isn't there such a thing?
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
picture.php


i can see where trem0lo's lamp hits 480/520 possibly not so intense but from this chart i can definitely see the argument for red/orange and regular blue in an actinic config ~its the chlorophyl b thing

i do believe the homogeneity concept but seems like *some* actinic to hit those peaks couldnt be a bad idea ~have some whites for sure but; i guess the big query is how much actinic to white
 

tenthirty

Member
The chart is somewhat misleading. I think the difference in conversion is less than 20 or 30% across the visible band.

IMHO, a full spectrum makes a healthy plant.
We shift spectrum and intensity to affect morphology.
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
it does seem quite misleading because it would lead one to believe they need more blue than red and seems to encourage UV too

does clarify SDS' reasoning about the 630s ~well perhaps
 

miron555

Member
sorry guys that i ask here but its about homemade led light
so,
i have 8 cree xp-e red(will go on 350mA), 8 hyper reds(@700mA) from osram and for better spectrum i want add xm-l whites. im thinking about 2 CW, 2 WW and one xt-e royal blue and this 5 leds will be driven @700mA.
will it have enough blue spectrum or too much? or should i try neutral whites?
its for my (22x23cm) micro grow
 

hempfield

Organic LED Grower
Veteran
It's impossible to have to much light when we speak about artificial lightning. You can add as much blue you want and if the buds develop to many small leaves on them this could be a sing of too much blue spectrum (but it also depends on strain).

Try to think from the opposite direction : focus to have a complete spectrum of white light which you can improve by adding blue and red.

Your space is tiny and will extremely crowded, even if you grow on 12/12 directly from seed.

What is the total power of red and the blue leds (separately and together) ?
 

miron555

Member
thank you Hempfield
i dont have now any leds with blue spectrum, so i want add xm-l CW and royal blue xt-e.
what i have now is 8 red crees and 8 osram hyper reds.
8 crees @350mA is 5.88W
8 osrams @700mA is 11,76W
17,64W of red so i need circa 9W of blue?
one xt-e RB @700mA is 2W so if i use 3 xt-e (6W) and 2 xm-l CW (4,2W) there will be enough blue to red?
and as you said for complete white spectrum i will add 2 xm-l WW @700mA.
will it be fine? did i got what you meant?
 

hempfield

Organic LED Grower
Veteran
I think you will have plenty of light for that space and the plant inside should be very happy. Try to place those LEDs in such a way the space is even flooded with light , but concentrate the blue mostly on center (or in the spot the plant will be placed on veg, when she is small) and spread red evenly (as the mature plant needs red light on her entire flowering surface) .

Did you have a pattern in mind ? What distance will be between the LEDs ?
 

miron555

Member
yes
:thank you: once more.
WW, CW and RB in the center of heatsink and reds around. and i will try keep equal distance between each one.
im planing 20cmx20cm square heatsink 4cm high. cooled with a pc fan.
i think i will be fine.am i right?
 

hempfield

Organic LED Grower
Veteran
If the heatsink have enough fins , at 4cm height you won't need a fan if the air in constantly agitated on the box. But if you measure the temperature on the middle of the heatsink and it exceeds 45 degrees Celsius you can also install a 12cm, low RPM, low power fan, just to move the air through the heatsink fins.
 

miron555

Member
there's a lot of fins :)
and i think last question, about driver.
in one chain @700mA i want put osram, xm-l and xt-e.

.......................typical V max V
osram ............... 2,1....... 2,6
xt-e................... 3 ....... 3.5
xm-l ..................2,9........ 3,5

8 osrams ...........16,8 ......20,8
3 royal blues ........9 ........10,5
2xCW+2xWW ......11,6 ....... 14
all .....................37,4...... 45,3

i know that i need a little bit more power from driver for safety so the best choice for me will be
MEAN WELL LPC-35-700, 34W, 700mA, 9-48V DC for that string?
or smaller do the job?
 
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xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
are you going to drive the 2.5s @ 3? or the 3s @ 2.5?

oiw; you need that to be 2 circuits 1 for the osrams and another for the 3V diodes
 

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
miron

The game has changed. The old RB bible is outdated. Hurray!

NW has all the blue you need, and WW has all the red, up to 630-640, which supplies 90%+ of the red your beloved mmj wants to throw mean buds. NW/WW 1/5-6

660 ain't all that, at least not to all strains, so you MIGHT add ~ 10% 660, but on a separate circuit that you can switch on late in flower
 

Kukok

New member
What do you guys think about this setup for my micro 20x30cm scrog? Overkill for such a small canopy? Max. height (from scrog net to LEDs) is about 40cm.

2 strings driven by a seperate Constant Current Boost Step-up Module(voltage & current adjustable) for each string - thx hempfield

Power supply: 12V/300mA

LEDs:
string #1:1x XM-L CW, 3x XM-L NW, 5x XM-L WW
string #2: 2x Osram red 625nm, 3x Osram deep-red 645nm(only mid/late-flower)
Both strings are attached to a 150x150x40mm heatsink (actively cooled)

I know that the NW has all the blue the plant wants but I added the CW to get a more even spectrum. Additionally I fear the stretch originated by the red-heavy spectrum. On my last grow I used 65W CW for veg and 86W(1/3 NW, 2/3 WW)
Can anyone tell me about the stretch (veg+flower) with LEDs compared to CFLs?
On the other hand I need a bit of stretch to get the scrog full fast (ideally with small internode distances) but the WWs should care for that, I think.

Any tips or improvements on spectrum or setup?
Shall I make the lighting height-adjustable to decrease distance to canopy? However in my opinion the penetration on my micro grow should be plenty at 1-1,3ft distance.
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
kukok i can see your rationale w/ those choices

w/ that driver you have obviously seen you can adjust the power to the respective circuits

FTMP you are seeing speculation here as far as what might be 'best' & w/ that in mind; you may have to run your light and see if it gets results you will be happy w/

there are some pretty good results chronicled here w/ similar lamps to what you have there

anyway; going here i did this:



close enough for our considerations; what i see is a lot of red which may be OK for flowering
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
That's more red (WW) than I've seen used. I have been on the fence with the CW, as I think the role of blue is overblown by many. I currently grow under Ushio HPS, no blue tint. Brighter than my Blue Hort lamp, but I might now feel I'm missing a bit of blue to tighten bud.

I already manage short internodes, so blue isn't such a critical aspect there. Having some blue to tighten buds- the NW has the blue.

So I could be convinced to eliminate the CW altogether, or cut the ratio to 2:2:0.5 -WW: NW: CW
 

Kukok

New member
Thanks for the replys.

xmobotx: thx, I already used this site to see the spectrum of my setup.

rrog: Maybe you are right. I will start with 6 NW and 6 WW and see what happens. I can add more red or blue during the grow anyway.

I just would be happy to get some feedback/experience on the plants stretch during early flower (I know it's strain dependent) with LEDs compared to CFLs or HPS lighting.
If the stretch isn't an issue I skip the CW and add a few WW for flower.
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran

w/ the attractive nature of the neutral cree; i find i am kind of avoiding the cool as i consider options ~for me its from observations in the data sheets. while the blue spikes of the many diodes {across brands/cool/neut/warm} do seem to be what, 'warmer' and 'cooler' should i say 'greener and violeter?' it seems that w/ the blue spike from a warm and the blue spike from a neutral one is getting pretty good representation in that range {assuming the spikes dont totally match ~and; this is viewing it graphically as from a radiometric graph[or whatever]} note: i am making no assumptions that all diodes would be any specific brand

idk if that makes my 'point' {seeing i am speculating and all} and i have been looking at having a few discrete diodes in the mix too ~which changes concerns that blue might not be covered
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
So you're thinking enough blue in WW and NW, why bother with CW.

I also supplement with UV-b, and I'm not so sure that doesn't throw out some blue also.
 
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