What's new

bobblehead's organic bedroom of high brix gardening

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Lowenfels - dafuq does that schmuck know?!

Something interesting I learned from the book... particularly for those commie synthetic nute users... Plants absorb water through osmosis. The roots generally have a higher ionic concentration than the environment outside the roots, so water is pulled from the areas of low ion concentration to high ion concentration... Into the roots to dilute the ions. However, if you're slamming your plants with a high EC, water is going to be less likely to move into the plant and the nutrients won't be available. Water also moves into the plant through transpiration... but osmotic pressure plays a huge role in water absorption.

:thank you:
:tiphat:
 
Last edited:

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
"Temperature affects soil microbes, water availability, and the chemical reactions that occur within plants, all of which influences nutrient uptake."

Teaming With Nutrients; Jeff Lowenfels pg 179

How is nutrients no longer being available not the same thing as flushing? Both ways the plant gets starved.

.

It has the same end effect, but it isn't the same for several reasons. Flushing allows your plant to use up what's in the media (making it more suitable for reuse), while merely lower the temp of your room slows/stops uptake of water and nutes (leaving a usually unbalanced ratio of nutes in your media). Ultimately you are staving the plant either way, just that it's more effective (read better for yield and quality) to flush than to stress a plant into not eating. I've tried, unintentionally, both ways, and yield and quality were negatively effected by the cold. Not a huge difference, but enough to be noticeable (especially in the yield dept.).
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
4.5 weeks

Death Star
picture.php

picture.php


Goat
picture.php

picture.php
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Straw DD
picture.php


@5 weeks the vert room is now in the horizontal room. You can see that some of the plants were heat stressed and are now seriously yellowed. Not saying vert doesn't work, b/c I didn't put fans under the lamps like is clearly stated in the rules... I just prefer horizontal right now. Make my life easier.
picture.php


In order to make my 6kw room an 8kw room, I had to add a 24k btu a/c, which required a trip to the lake house... I had to drain the well pump and rake up leaves too. Going back up there really made me miss the old place... All the rooms are still in place, they just need lights and fans...
picture.php

picture.php



but then I remembered it was a week long power outage that made me shut down... and all the other issues I've had with that house. Not gonna revisit the past with what I would do differently. Better to sell the property or fix it up and keep it as a vacation spot.

I also finally replaced my CO2 generator. Gotta snap pics of that and my dehuey controller. The CO2 generator is fed with tap water controlled by a solenoid to waste. Turns out running portable water heaters on a res is bad news for many reasons. Just run them to waste as they're intended to be used.
 

FlowerFarmer

Well-known member
Veteran
The horizontal is looking mighty delicious bobble. Awesome work.


How's the Death Star smelling? I know a few who obsess over this strain in the midwest. A few even warning me that it's odor can be insane, overpowering their odor control systems and a few even stop running it because of the security issues it presented.

I've flowered a few, but never filled a room of it. Is it really that bad?


Since you're toying around horizontally you've gotta grab some Adjust-a-Wings. I've got a few of the large ones and really like them a lot. Super lightweight and convenient with the split ACs where air-cooleds are not required.

Switched a few of my rooms backs to horizontally as well, just to simplify a bit. I'm keeping my sealed/co2 tree room vertical, but trying some 1ks over tables to see if with large adjust a wings if I can get similar yields to my hard to maneuver around donuts. If so.. horizontal is just the easier route in many ways. Time will tell.. I went from 1lb per light horizontally (daystar ACs) to 1.4lb done vertically.. to 1.7lb (vertical sealed/co2). I certainly don't want to go back, but the allure of easily trellised tables keep drawing me back..

...at least in some situations..of course, I always just want to grow all the ways. Too much fun to be had.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
"so water is pulled from the areas of high concentration to low concentration."

isn't this reversed? shouldn't it read "low concentration to high concentration"?

that "deathstar" canopy is perfect, nice!
 

high life 45

Seen your Member?
Veteran
Your beds are awesom bro!

Are you twisting the limbs around the screen when you train?


Im gonnna get some gavitas someday, hopefully someday soon. ill b in bed land then.
 

megayields

Grower of Connoisseur herb's.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Straw DD
View Image

@5 weeks the vert room is now in the horizontal room. You can see that some of the plants were heat stressed and are now seriously yellowed. Not saying vert doesn't work, b/c I didn't put fans under the lamps like is clearly stated in the rules... I just prefer horizontal right now. Make my life easier.
View Image

What are those white things hanging from the ceiling and do you have two that match? (snicker)

Deathstar looks amazing (as anything you grow does) bro!
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
holy f*ck does that Deathstar table look good :respect:

Lemme know when that comes down please

photo/smoke session? ::D

How's the Death Star smelling?

I've flowered a few, but never filled a room of it. Is it really that bad?


Since you're toying around horizontally you've gotta grab some Adjust-a-Wings. I've got a few of the large ones and really like them a lot. Super lightweight and convenient with the split ACs where air-cooleds are not required.

...at least in some situations..of course, I always just want to grow all the ways. Too much fun to be had.

Personally I don't think Deathstar smells so bad that it overpowers scrubbers... Maybe they just didn't have their scrubber sealed tight on the fan? It does smell, but Golden Goat smells a lot stronger imo. I may even fill this room up with Death Star. She roots easy, vegges fast, and finishes heavy and frosty with some stank. Security isn't an issue here... I only have a 6" scrubber/fan combo outside the room and I smoke 24/7... I want to start scrubbing the whole house, b/c now I have a new gf and she doesn't like to smell weed right when she walks in the door... lol

I have a few reflectors to replace... If A-wings are available I'll grab them, but I've been purchasing confiscated equipment from police auctions for 30% of cost, and most of this stuff looks brand new. My last grow I got 3 lbs and 5 lbs from my beds. One bed got culled and hashed. I'm sure you can do better than 1lb a light.

Now that I've switched everything over, running 8kw is a breeze, and I've been keeping an eye out for more real estate... I can see myself running 20kw... :D but then I remember I'm supposed to be retiring from commercial growing soon. lol. Better hurry up and make it happen! :D


"so water is pulled from the areas of high concentration to low concentration."

isn't this reversed? shouldn't it read "low concentration to high concentration"?

that "deathstar" canopy is perfect, nice!

Yes I'll go back and make a correction, I was thinking in terms of the water, not ions. I could have worded my statement better.

Thanks for the compliments! Nice to see you over here. I hope you're feeling well. :tiphat:

Your beds are awesom bro!

Are you twisting the limbs around the screen when you train?


Im gonnna get some gavitas someday, hopefully someday soon. ill b in bed land then.

No twisting. That makes it difficult to remove the branches at harvest. Honestly training has been super easy. I just pulled the branches under the trellis, and let them grow up. Some of the lower branches I pulled up to the top of the canopy. The rest got lopped off and left to decompose and return to the soil. Feed my worms.

I would love to buy some gavitas... But then I remind myself I'm supposed to shut down in the next 1.5 years! YIKES!!! I just can't see myself shutting down that soon... but it won't be worth risking my professional license that lets me start out at $60k a year. No worries about being busted at harvest with way too many overages.


Straw DD
View Image

@5 weeks the vert room is now in the horizontal room. You can see that some of the plants were heat stressed and are now seriously yellowed. Not saying vert doesn't work, b/c I didn't put fans under the lamps like is clearly stated in the rules... I just prefer horizontal right now. Make my life easier.
View Image

What are those white things hanging from the ceiling and do you have two that match? (snicker)

Deathstar looks amazing (as anything you grow does) bro!

Oh Mega... I do have 2 6" Magnum XXXL's, and 3 older sunleaves reflectors... and an 8" Magnum XXXL, Raptor, and a Predator... Variety is the spice of life!

How's your grow???
 

SRGB

Member
#284
bobblehead:

You can see that some of the plants were heat stressed and are now seriously yellowed


Hi, bobblehead.

Magnesium, calcium and iron might help, perhaps in that order, in a very small amount. There might be heat stress, too. The expression might appear to resemble lack of the above. The heat stress potion might be emphasized by reduction of available water to transport calcium up to the tops of the specimem, particularly the center specimen depicted; recalling that calcium might be relatively immobile in the plant and travels with water through the xylem to the tops of the plants or trees. Calcium deficiency might thereby appear at the tops of the plants first - where the element is most dependent on water to transport it there.

delta9nxs:

"so water is pulled from the areas of high concentration to low concentration."

isn't this reversed? shouldn't it read "low concentration to high concentration"?


Hi, delta9nxs.

It might be from higher concentration to lower concentration. The higher concentration of water might be on the outside of the roots, this permits water to be `pulled` up into the specimen. If the concentration were reveresed, or higher concentration of water inside of the specimen, water might not be able to overcome the combined internal pressure exhibited by the plant.

Perhaps a crude example could be top-feeding a given media, for example, calcined clay. When dry the calcined clay might possess a low concentration of water. When watered, the calcined clay might absorb the amount of water that its physical composition allows. Once that degree of `higher concentration`, or saturation is reached, the remainder of the water poured into the media, in general, forms a pool, or pockets of saturation, and drains out of the holding container - if possible via adequate draiange. There might be a point in the process where equilibrium is reached when watering, where the can only hold `X` amount of water, after that point, or the `higher concentration` level, water would then drain out of the media, or to where there might be a `low concentration` of water.

This process can lead to overwatering, if the gardener saturates the media, essentially creating a force of water pressure (and postentially containing a high content of nutrients) into a media or plant that might already be processing the greatest rate of water it can - through uptake, internal distribution and transpiration - physically (or mechanically) process.

In general, a given plant or tree can only physically process so much water per day. Excess water presented to the plants` or trees` roots might not be pulled up into the plant or tree as the mechanics of the process do not generally permit it - if the greatest concentration (of water or `nuttrients`) is held within the the plant itself.

Transpiration rates might greatly influence the dynamics of this process. If the plant is unable to transpire - and that water vapor is not extracted from the microclimate around the plant or tree - another element of pressure aggregates: external water pressure. The external portion of the circuit can generally be examined via vapor pressure deficit measurements, recalling that leaves have internal water pressure and sense external water pressure - and further open or close their stomata based on these differences between internal and external `concentrations`.

The higher the VPD, the lower the RH, in general, forcing the plant to uptake more water through roots to move up through the plant, out of the leaves and surround the plant or tree with a moist micro climate - which plants generally prefer to drier conditions around their foliage - recalling that the plants` internal water pressure is generally high (i.e.g., leaves are filled with water).

This process (all interconnected portions) can further be employed to calculate approximately how much water a plant is actually using by measuring input water, dehumidified water, and moisture level in the media - or ewxternal reservoir level which a plants` roots might have access to.

From these variables, a gardener mightr be able to accurately determine how much water to provide - relatively exactly - over a given period, as that water moves from higher concentration (reservoir, xylem, leaves) to lower concentration (surrounding micro climate outside of the leaves), or `osmosis`.

Kind regards,
/SRGB/
 
Last edited:

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Something interesting I learned from the book... particularly for those commie synthetic nute users... Plants absorb water through osmosis. The roots generally have a higher ionic concentration than the environment outside the roots, so water is pulled from the areas of low ion concentration to high ion concentration... Into the roots to dilute the ions. However, if you're slamming your plants with a high EC, water is going to be less likely to move into the plant and the nutrients won't be available. Water also moves into the plant through transpiration... but osmotic pressure plays a huge role in water absorption.

:thank you:
:tiphat:


The correction has been made. I just wasn't thinking clearly when I originally wrote the post.

Finally! Props from Mr. D! Time to celebrate! :woohoo:

Thanks for the tips on the heat stress formula SRGB. I'll give it a go over the next few days and see what happens.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Looking very nice dude.. Where does your air con drain to?

I haven't hooked it up yet. I'm going to put a trash can below it and tubing draining to the trash can. I also have to tape up the inside, and attach the air filter. Right now it cycles on and off. I don't have any noticeable condensation. I'm sure when I drop the temps in a couple weeks that will change.

8kw light + 5 tons of ac + 200 pt dehuey + fogger + CO2 burner = total environmental control. I'm loving life right now.

:)
 
Last edited:
Bobble, do you like your fogger over a standard humidifier? I bought a small crate of the things 5 years ago when I had an aero system. Unfortunately, I don't know where the remaining units are, but I'm shopping around for humidification (only thing I'm missing from your equation, and the weak link in my setup) and trying to decide which way to go.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Bobble, do you like your fogger over a standard humidifier? I bought a small crate of the things 5 years ago when I had an aero system. Unfortunately, I don't know where the remaining units are, but I'm shopping around for humidification (only thing I'm missing from your equation, and the weak link in my setup) and trying to decide which way to go.

pond foggers are definitely superior to whole house humidifiers. I never got my humidity above 60% with a whole house humidifier. With pond foggers, I have no troubles getting up to 70% rh.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top