bigger yields with guano

[Crazy Composer]

It's not what you feed, it's when you feed, and how much.

A plant will tell the grower what it needs, and what it does not. It's up to the grower to adjust.

Personally, I take the absolute minimalist route when I feed.

My organic soils are very simple, with only enough organic material built in to get the organic process kicked off. (coco coir or pro-mix, perlite, worm castings and a small amount of a well-rounded fertilizer which contains bone meal, blood meal etc.). This soil mix is very light, and its only purpose is to establish the microherd.

The rest of the fertilization is done as the grow progresses. Generally, I like to use bat and seabird guanos, scratched into the surface and watered in. This feeds the microherd, which --in turn-- feeds the roots.

I use the same basic theory to feed my plants organically as I do in EVERY OTHER METHOD, chemical, or organic/chemical hybrid growing styles. This is what I mean... A plant will show certain signs of hunger, or of overfeeding. If you know these signs, you can give them ONLY what they ask for.

Terrible herb can come from both chemical AND organic gardens. Terrible herb is usually a result of a plant having too much access to available nutrients at harvest time. This condition can be true in organics as well as in chemical growing. I don't care what the "no flush for organics" crowd says, I know better. Flushing organic soil CAN be necessary to achieve what I call acceptable herb, IF the soil is too hot at harvest time. By "hot" I mean it has too much actively releasing organic material at the time of harvest. Some of the most disgusting herb I have ever smoked was harvested from hot organic soils.

To avoid this organic heat at harvest time, I use the above-mentioned organic feeding method, where I only give them enough to last a week or so, and keep an eye on them to know when they're running out of the last dose. Actually, this is the way I feed ALL plants, organic or not. I use NO schedule, I just feed them when they're starting to ask for it, and it's that simple.

In this way, you can create starvation conditions at harvest time, allowing the nutrients to dissipate almost completely, and forcing the chlorophyll to begin to leach out of the leaves and then the buds. By harvest, my plants are dropping leaves left and right, just like in a natural autumn/FALL situation (remember to be a good surrogate Mother Nature).

My herb tastes like the plant it comes from, and NOTHING else. There's no hint of ANYTHING but the essence of the herb itself, as it should be. The reason I get these results is that my plants are allowed to starve for a week or two before harvest. The buds often have a golden/yellow hue to them when dry.

The moral of the story... Don't overfeed any plant, even in organics you can overdo it.

Hint - When scratching your dry guanos into the soil surface, don't just water them and consider the job done. It is important to scratch it in, then wet the surface and wait for a minute or two before giving them their full watering. This pause allows the dry guanos to get wet and begin to release their bounty of nutrients and enzymes. If you wait this minute or two after wetting the guano, then water completely, the plants will receive a good feeding. If you don't allow this time, you'll get a very concentrated cake of nutrients at the surface of the soil, which does the plant very little good.

It all comes down to common sense. Often, the common sense thing to do takes a lot more effort, so many growers skimp on these steps thinking it won't matter. It DOES. The difference between a great grower and an average grower = effort. You just gotta do what ya gotta do, no matter what time of day it is, how sick you feel, how drunk you are or how much of a pain in the ass it is, you just gotta go get er done.

cc

 

[Microbeman]

Microbeman

Just in case you're not familiar with the farming methods used by the pre-Columbian group known as the 'Tiwanaku' (circa 400 B.C.) in South America (specifically Boliva), you might find this link an interesting read.

Here's part of the cite:2,400 years ago and they had it figured out.

Very cool

 

[maryjohn]

It is converted to forms of ammonia or nitrate (to my knowledge) by microbes. The ammonia smell in a barn is even attributed to microbial activity. Do some googling. I believe nature protects itself by not having a lot of compounds which are directly soluble. I still have not had one person answer my challenge providing evidence that blood meal provides a significant amount of N in ionic form. I am prepared at anytime to learn, if this is the case.

I'm not saying anything about ionic, or whether microbes are involved. When I say it's available, I mean it isn't locked up in a way that takes long to undo.

All I know is, urea is N, water soluble, works fast, too much can burn, and it's in blood and urine.

if you want good corn, you need to put some N back in the soil one way or another, and you can't have other plants competing for N.

 

[Microbeman]

I'm not saying anything about ionic, or whether microbes are involved. When I say it's available, I mean it isn't locked up in a way that takes long to undo.

All I know is, urea is N, water soluble, works fast, too much can burn, and it's in blood and urine.

if you want good corn, you need to put some N back in the soil one way or another, and you can't have other plants competing for N.

Available & soluble = ionic form

All you need is properly finished compost (or other organic matter). The whole N thing in terms of organics is a myth. (in my opinion, experience and studies) Don't forget the discussion began with leaching N and bluebabies. It is rare for organic forms of N ( R-NH2 ) to ever leach, which was my point. In other words you do not add N but add substances from which nature (microbial interaction) derives N. I'm happy to learn new things if I'm off track. Perhaps there is available N in organic urea but everything (reliable) I read says it needs to be nitrified.

I realize that the chemical industry has done a great job of convincing us that we feed plants and it will take a long time, if ever for this to fade. Just think of the giant money machine only in the cannabis industry that depends on this concept. As for plants competing for N, I would guess it may be a case of spacing, no matter the species of plant. But, as you have pointed out, companion planting of clover, alfalfa, mushrooms, etc. is highly beneficial.

 

[magiccannabus]

Part of why urine has been aged traditionally in barrels is to allow it to become more available. For an organic source, it's extremely hot. I wouldn't say it's even 50% soluble instantly though. Generally it seems to only last a few days though, and it feeds the plant nitrogen if it wants it or not, which is typical with ammoniates from what I understand. It may not be instant, but it sure is fast. Great when you really need it though.

 

[Iron_Lion]

It's not what you feed, it's when you feed, and how much.

A plant will tell the grower what it needs, and what it does not. It's up to the grower to adjust.

Personally, I take the absolute minimalist route when I feed.

My organic soils are very simple, with only enough organic material built in to get the organic process kicked off. (coco coir or pro-mix, perlite, worm castings and a small amount of a well-rounded fertilizer which contains bone meal, blood meal etc.). This soil mix is very light, and its only purpose is to establish the microherd.

The rest of the fertilization is done as the grow progresses. Generally, I like to use bat and seabird guanos, scratched into the surface and watered in. This feeds the microherd, which --in turn-- feeds the roots.

I use the same basic theory to feed my plants organically as I do in EVERY OTHER METHOD, chemical, or organic/chemical hybrid growing styles. This is what I mean... A plant will show certain signs of hunger, or of overfeeding. If you know these signs, you can give them ONLY what they ask for.

Terrible herb can come from both chemical AND organic gardens. Terrible herb is usually a result of a plant having too much access to available nutrients at harvest time. This condition can be true in organics as well as in chemical growing. I don't care what the "no flush for organics" crowd says, I know better. Flushing organic soil CAN be necessary to achieve what I call acceptable herb, IF the soil is too hot at harvest time. By "hot" I mean it has too much actively releasing organic material at the time of harvest. Some of the most disgusting herb I have ever smoked was harvested from hot organic soils.

To avoid this organic heat at harvest time, I use the above-mentioned organic feeding method, where I only give them enough to last a week or so, and keep an eye on them to know when they're running out of the last dose. Actually, this is the way I feed ALL plants, organic or not. I use NO schedule, I just feed them when they're starting to ask for it, and it's that simple.

In this way, you can create starvation conditions at harvest time, allowing the nutrients to dissipate almost completely, and forcing the chlorophyll to begin to leach out of the leaves and then the buds. By harvest, my plants are dropping leaves left and right, just like in a natural autumn/FALL situation (remember to be a good surrogate Mother Nature).

My herb tastes like the plant it comes from, and NOTHING else. There's no hint of ANYTHING but the essence of the herb itself, as it should be. The reason I get these results is that my plants are allowed to starve for a week or two before harvest. The buds often have a golden/yellow hue to them when dry.

The moral of the story... Don't overfeed any plant, even in organics you can overdo it.

Hint - When scratching your dry guanos into the soil surface, don't just water them and consider the job done. It is important to scratch it in, then wet the surface and wait for a minute or two before giving them their full watering. This pause allows the dry guanos to get wet and begin to release their bounty of nutrients and enzymes. If you wait this minute or two after wetting the guano, then water completely, the plants will receive a good feeding. If you don't allow this time, you'll get a very concentrated cake of nutrients at the surface of the soil, which does the plant very little good.

It all comes down to common sense. Often, the common sense thing to do takes a lot more effort, so many growers skimp on these steps thinking it won't matter. It DOES. The difference between a great grower and an average grower = effort. You just gotta do what ya gotta do, no matter what time of day it is, how sick you feel, how drunk you are or how much of a pain in the ass it is, you just gotta go get er done.

cc

Im with ya....

 

[Crazy Composer]

Yes sir.

Chem 4, ready to rock... as I type.

Should burn in a joint like lemony, cannabis-scented incense.

She has been without nitrogen for several weeks, but her buds have swollen to full ripeness in the meantime. She is headed for my private stash. Those leaves would fall off with just a slight touch of the hand. Nitrogen deficiency to the max. Who wants to smoke nitrogen? Hands up.

 

[JackTheGrower]

I agree to not feed nitrogen late into flower. Who needs that unless we intend to reveg?
I also suggest to not use liquid sea weed and or nitrogenous materials before and during the transition to 12/12. Then again, I grow in a fixed height indoor space so I need to finish it in about 1 meter and no taller. Folks that have room may be alright with higher N levels but liquid kelp has had effects on my plants making them stretchy during the switch to 12/12.

I have applied guano high in P in the past as I saw fit but not late into 12/12.
I tend to just water the last few weeks.



So as Crazy Composer has shared and, from what I can gather from that soy article summery, we can over do it when it comes to flower formation with our NPK.
The research I am doing into it now suggests we do need to watch our NPK ratios for optimum flower sites and quality.

I'm reading this one now.. http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/Foliage/Resrpts/rh_95_2.htm

This is a good thread thanks guys. I'll be thinking about this.

Jack

Here is a snippit that talks about the NPK and flower formation in Soy Beans..
I'm not sure if this snippit relates to cannabis but, I offer it as a read.

http://journals.cambridge.org/actio...EDE0D360F.tomcat1?fromPage=online&aid=1609272

Effects of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium on Flowering and Yield of Soybeans in Nigeria
G. P. Tewaria1
a1 Department of Plant-Soil Science, University of Nigeria, Nsukka, Eastern Nigeria

Article author query
tewari gp PubMed Google Scholar
Summary

A NPK factorial experiment was conducted during two successive cropping seasons to study direct and residual effects of various treatments on the flower initiation and yield of soybeans. Plants were slower to reach the maximum flowering stage in the year of fertilizer application than in the following year. During the first year potassium in association with phosphorus delayed the flower forming process, whereas potassium alone hastened flowering in the second year unless associated with a high dosage of nitrogen. All the treatments gave far greater yields in the first season, suggesting that fertilizers should be applied during every cropping season. Nitrogen and phosphorus at 20 pounds of N2 and P2O5, per acre gave the biggest yields, but potassium failed to show any response. The residual responses to potassium and phosphorus during the second year were significant but not to nitrogen.

(Received May 27 1964)

 

[Microbeman]

NPK ratios

 

[maryjohn]

Available & soluble = ionic form

I realize that the chemical industry has done a great job of convincing us that we feed plants and it will take a long time, if ever for this to fade. Just think of the giant money machine only in the cannabis industry that depends on this concept. As for plants competing for N, I would guess it may be a case of spacing, no matter the species of plant. But, as you have pointed out, companion planting of clover, alfalfa, mushrooms, etc. is highly beneficial.

To me, whenever I add N to my soil in any form whatsoever (green manure, compost, etc...) I consider that to be adding N. Adding N is not exclusive of adding other things, and if it does not imply adding synthetic N as in miracle gro, etc... I don't think from the synthetic gardening point of view at all. So of course I am expecting my soil web to take care of things, but i can't starve my soil, and the N-P-K label (not literal, but figurative) can be helpful for sorting out what i feed my soil, or rather, my worm bin. Like I've said before, I feed roots for roots, fruits for flowers, and leaves and stems for leaves and stems.

I know it's not the system that works for you, but it does work for quite a few. I guess it's best to use a system that works for you. It's like any diet. Some people do well counting calories, some do better if they make sure to eat 5 colors every meal, and on and on.


In the case of urea from urine, I do know it is water soluble. Otherwise your urine would be made from a different solvent, and so would your blood. maybe that is why it greens up a plant so fast?

As for planting heavy feeders with corn, more goes on under the soil than we realize. Roots of corn plants will cooperate with each other and with beans and squash, but will compete with other plants resulting in all having lower yields.

 

[magiccannabus]

The problem with NPK is that there are huge amounts of the various materials plants need that are in non-soluble forms, or otherwise unavailable to the plants, and NPK only really measures the materials in their ionic form(at least that is my understanding). Also, there's huge amounts of nitrogen in the air, and some microbial life helps "fix" that nitrogen. Literally the plant grabs carbon and nitrogen out of the air, by way of beneficials. I think Microbeman's point is just that NPK is an awful standard for measuring all the things an organic garden can do. What looks like bad plant food in NPK terms can often be amazing organic material.

Just look at something like Espoma's popular "Plant-Tone", which has an NPK rating listed right on it. Parts of the food that provide certain nutrients break down more slowly than others, but the NPK rating on it is "averaged" across all the sources, despite the differences in their solubility and how quickly microbes can break them down. Greensand and some sorts of guano are high in potassium, but there's a huge difference between their availability to a plant. So if the bag had greensand and guano, the actual available K would be much less than the sum of all the sources of K. It just makes the NPK rating fairly useless. This is why he talks so much about sources "derived from" things.

 

[Clackamas Coot]

Microbeman

The importer/distributor of the Archipelago Bat Guano (3-10-0) product has an interesting article about N-P-K as it relates to bat guano and organic agents in general.

 

[Microbeman]

a corn field will either have tons of nitrogen if it is active, or very little if it is not. Corn is an extremely heavy feeder, so during the season tons of N is added, and after the season is over the soil is very depleted.

The runoff from cornfield can be so bad that babies downriver turn blue. When you hear "blue babies" that's what you're talking bout. The high nitrates in the water cause a condition called methemoglobinemia.

If you stick to the no-till fields, you will be better off. They don't need quite as much (still quite a bit).

There is no runoff/leaching issue with compost and other organic materials (unless you go overboard). You have a habit of drifting away from your original statement.

I know it's not the system that works for you, but it does work for quite a few.

I am not proposing nor using a system which is different from yours, simply trying to help explain that we do not (to my current knowledge, experience and studies 'from reliable sources') feed plants. A well made compost of measure 3-1-1 or vermicompost can provide as much or more nitrogen (N) than a chemical fertilzer of 40-1-1 measurement. The difference is that N in compost and other organic compounds is sequestered and is released by microbial interactions, in large part controlled by the plant. I do not disagree so much with your methods, except that I do not use blood nor purchased bone.

I have described my 'indoor' experimental method before [which has been terminated for 5 years] but briefly; I grew in wooden bins approximately 36"LX12WX18" deep, stacked in a circle formation with vertical lights centrally placed. Initially the soil was topsoil mixed with peat and some vermiculite and rock phosphate; plants were grown to 18 inches or so, then harvested; compost tea was applied regularly; post harvest worms were added for a week to eat up dead roots and organic debris and of course they pooped and aerated the soil; worms were trapped out (mostly); topdress with vermicompost and applications of EM fermentations and molasses; wait 10 days to 2 weeks and replant with endomycorrhizal spores; additionally added populations of ladybugs, cucumerous, persimilis; the latter two multiplied and had a resident population of rove beetles; mushrooms grew up; persisted for around 5 or 6 years without changing soil. Never bought any fertilizers.

BTW I had colas which were 8 to 10 inches X 3 to 4 inches diameter. Interesting on 18 inch plants.

Magiccanabus; Thank you.

 

[JackTheGrower]

Don't worry be happy Microbeman it is just semantics.

Is it true then that the only way to know how much to apply, albeit, in a field is to measure the NPK and other nutrients in the soil before and after a crop?

I've always thought this was true; that there is a living relationship that the plant controls in my "compost mix."
The term is the rhizosphere. This where the action is. Thus in any soil space the unused soil is bulk soil.
So just to add this term to the thread for other readers here is a link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhizosphere_(ecology)

Oh and would someone PM and explain to me how to make a single word into a link.

Jack

 

[VerdantGreen]

It's not what you feed, it's when you feed, and how much.

A plant will tell the grower what it needs, and what it does not. It's up to the grower to adjust.

Personally, I take the absolute minimalist route when I feed.

My organic soils are very simple, with only enough organic material built in to get the organic process kicked off. (coco coir or pro-mix, perlite, worm castings and a small amount of a well-rounded fertilizer which contains bone meal, blood meal etc.). This soil mix is very light, and its only purpose is to establish the microherd.

The rest of the fertilization is done as the grow progresses. Generally, I like to use bat and seabird guanos, scratched into the surface and watered in. This feeds the microherd, which --in turn-- feeds the roots.

I use the same basic theory to feed my plants organically as I do in EVERY OTHER METHOD, chemical, or organic/chemical hybrid growing styles. This is what I mean... A plant will show certain signs of hunger, or of overfeeding. If you know these signs, you can give them ONLY what they ask for.

Terrible herb can come from both chemical AND organic gardens. Terrible herb is usually a result of a plant having too much access to available nutrients at harvest time. This condition can be true in organics as well as in chemical growing. I don't care what the "no flush for organics" crowd says, I know better. Flushing organic soil CAN be necessary to achieve what I call acceptable herb, IF the soil is too hot at harvest time. By "hot" I mean it has too much actively releasing organic material at the time of harvest. Some of the most disgusting herb I have ever smoked was harvested from hot organic soils.

To avoid this organic heat at harvest time, I use the above-mentioned organic feeding method, where I only give them enough to last a week or so, and keep an eye on them to know when they're running out of the last dose. Actually, this is the way I feed ALL plants, organic or not. I use NO schedule, I just feed them when they're starting to ask for it, and it's that simple.

In this way, you can create starvation conditions at harvest time, allowing the nutrients to dissipate almost completely, and forcing the chlorophyll to begin to leach out of the leaves and then the buds. By harvest, my plants are dropping leaves left and right, just like in a natural autumn/FALL situation (remember to be a good surrogate Mother Nature).

My herb tastes like the plant it comes from, and NOTHING else. There's no hint of ANYTHING but the essence of the herb itself, as it should be. The reason I get these results is that my plants are allowed to starve for a week or two before harvest. The buds often have a golden/yellow hue to them when dry.

The moral of the story... Don't overfeed any plant, even in organics you can overdo it.

Hint - When scratching your dry guanos into the soil surface, don't just water them and consider the job done. It is important to scratch it in, then wet the surface and wait for a minute or two before giving them their full watering. This pause allows the dry guanos to get wet and begin to release their bounty of nutrients and enzymes. If you wait this minute or two after wetting the guano, then water completely, the plants will receive a good feeding. If you don't allow this time, you'll get a very concentrated cake of nutrients at the surface of the soil, which does the plant very little good.

It all comes down to common sense. Often, the common sense thing to do takes a lot more effort, so many growers skimp on these steps thinking it won't matter. It DOES. The difference between a great grower and an average grower = effort. You just gotta do what ya gotta do, no matter what time of day it is, how sick you feel, how drunk you are or how much of a pain in the ass it is, you just gotta go get er done.

cc

great post!

the soft sappy growth you get from plants with excess nutrients is more susceptable to mould, mildew, mites etc.

at the end of the day we are growing the plants for buds, and for the buds to be of the best quality, the rest of the plant has to look anything but green and healthy come harvest time.
60 days 2 foot square, 250hps, hoping the leaves will fade a bit more in the next week or so.

 

[JackTheGrower]

Alright then.. What is it that is being used that is so easy to control nutrient usage so you end up pulling nutrients from the leaves in the end?

Are you two using liquid feeding as your method of control?


That makes me wonder just how many clones i can get under 1500 watts in a 4x4 space.. LOL VerdantGreen that looks great.. I bet I would need two carbon filters.


Jack

I have older photos but my soft and sappy made me happy.


Above are Glad strain photos.. A nothing special medical strain grown organically.

 

[maryjohn]

There is no runoff/leaching issue with compost and other organic materials (unless you go overboard). You have a habit of drifting away from your original statement.

forgive my lack of discipline, I will strive to do better in the future. I was referring to runoff from the corn cultivation, not organic gardening, btw. My advice was that no till fields would be better to use because they have seen less abuse and fertilizer.

 

[Clackamas Coot]

The One Straw Revolution by Masanobu Fukuoka would probably be a good read on no-tilling methods. Before his death last summer he had over 85 years of perfecting his method of maximizing yields in his native Japan by turning conventional cultivation and harvesting crops on its head.

 

[VerdantGreen]

Alright then.. What is it that is being used that is so easy to control nutrient usage so you end up pulling nutrients from the leaves in the end?

Are you two using liquid feeding as your method of control?


That makes me wonder just how many clones i can get under 1500 watts in a 4x4 space.. LOL VerdantGreen that looks great.. I bet I would need two carbon filters.


Jack

I have older photos but my soft and sappy made me happy.


Above are Glad strain photos.. A nothing special medical strain grown organically.

big trichs on that middle bud!

i repot for the final time at the same time i put them to 12/12,or perhaps a week before. i put guano, seaweed and rock phospate in the soil mix and then dont feed them until they start to look hungry, sometimes about halfway through ranging to never.then i use biobiz bloom, half strength perhaps every other watering.

many plants in general grow leaves when in soil rich in nutrients, you need to make them a little less comfortable to get them to flower or fruit well. tomatoes for instance set their first truss quicker if kept in a pot rather than planted out early.

 

[BurmeseDragon]

This thread grew, I know that corn fields that are not organic and even the organic get a lot of N before planting. Nobody around here, sprays mid season; they don't spray the plants since enough is typically applied early. If they did apply during the season, that would spray the plants so what they spray is usually weed killer or pesticide. Lot's of farmers leave fields alone, although I have seen very small fields get treated. Most farmers use chemicals that break down quickly, but the impact stays. I think you can get away with organic feeding, not to far into the growing season. Organics are very light with water solubles, some add more macro and micro nutes than NPK salts. As well as living organisms, so it's really a battle of salt levels. Remember that water is a solvent, and roots can break down organic matter. A dry organic fert, that is low in salts can be buried in a hole/mixed with chemical salts. If you want, you can even take out the water soluble salts. A fine filter should be used and a vacuum pump, to separate the organic material that is precipitating but not salts. Lot's of organic NPK sources have zero macro and micro nutrients. Corn fields, are darn near depleted of many sources that aid. Even organic farmers, don't add full spectrum nutrients; that is very rare and costly.

I'm not growing outdoors this year, and maybe not even next. But I will probably start by relying on the chemi's in the fields. Probably add some micro blast, with a little PBP to aid in organic build up. Some Epsom organic traditions not for the N, but mainly the micro and fungi around a wide circle. The clones will already have been exposed indoors, to this herd. The wide circle of top dressing, will take awhile to penetrate the soil. So by the time salts do leach into my root zone, as well as non-soluble precipitates the competition is high. That would be mid to late July, so micro watering of PBP has been given with micro blast. Some Epsoma full spectrum dry nutrients and organic traditions sprinkled throughout the season. It is easier to burn the corn, than the plants put out.

I also have two forms of Seabird guano, I want to add organic material more than salts. A field is very low in N by the end of the season, it takes awhile for plants to turn yellow but a field can be very depleted. Some fields do not, these are sometimes good organic fields since there was a lot of organic non-soluble nutrients. People get carried away with salts, that is the risk; Guano is a high salt as far as organics but it's not over doing it if you don't. It's hard to find 'organic' fields, these usually have a man made pond that is for making tea. Seeing someone spray is not a good sign, but it might only be tea. Others fling the composted crap, this is done in the fall. I typically don't have observations for every field, that is pathetic. Thus I must risk over salting, but I'm going to take it there. Liquids near the plant and a light powdering of organic nutrients in a wide circle. Corn doesn't add nutrients, it adds organic material. Soy adds N from bacteria, so the bird Guana is mostly to help out what is naturally deficient. My area has a lot of K, but the N and P is low. Corn sucks up N and P, it isn't a big deal farmers let them go through harvest. I don't come in and make a nice large space, I slowly remove corn plants throughout the year. So my plants, are very close to competing corn all the time. Cover is a huge factor and critical, especially since I care for well fed plants around harvest. I do believe, that cannabis or any plant, can absorb organic matter that is not a salt. I know it turns into salts, but when the roots convert non-soluble material into soluble, aided by microbes and fungi....it isn't a force feeding, the roots are changing the molecules. They are not over burdened that way, forcing salts can plague plants.

I have done so good, without a flush. There is a difference in nutrient sources, salt build up requires a flush and you can't always determine how much salt has built up. It can be flushed/metabolized very quick, in a chemi field it takes the early season. Hair, is a fine source of organic material high in Nitrogen. An example of a non-soluble source until metalized, some nutrients have mostly non-soluble material. Teas have lot's of precipitation, not all salts; that is the reason why mixing is so very important. In fact, it has almost nothing to do with breathing or a culture growth; that occurs. Soil building, ever hear of mine salting? People go in and blast Gold, platinum or whatever with a shot gun. So your riches are not deep, that is why organic farming is not about salts. Salts can leach into a water table, farmers attempt to give a field what it requires without being sued.

Bird Guano, they eat a lot of fish; it's just a processed form of fish emulsions. As well as anything else animals eat, thus organic is a hard find. Birds don't pee, so they are higher in salts than you poo! Everyone is a salt junkie, organic or not; it's about balance not 'organics'.