LOL, I just keep pissing in the same places, it soon begins to smell stale, especially after 3 or 4 weeks on the Strongbow(Cider), Cider makes your piss Fkin reek after drinking it constantly for a couple of weeks lol!
Bass Akwards
Member
Adding a dose of Elmers Glue to the pepper spray is a fabulous idea.
The "burn" must adhere to the leaves longer, but evidently doesn't harm the plant.
"Elmers" is actually a very ancient, organic, product.
One version of "Elmers" was used by the Romans Empire.
It's basically a combination of milk and uric acid.
Take a piss in some milk, and that's what you get.
The "burn" must adhere to the leaves longer, but evidently doesn't harm the plant.
"Elmers" is actually a very ancient, organic, product.
One version of "Elmers" was used by the Romans Empire.
It's basically a combination of milk and uric acid.
Take a piss in some milk, and that's what you get.
Ahhhh Deer....and squirrels...and skunks.....
I have found that you need to have multiple lines of defense as follows:
Physical
- Plants are mainly seeded and grown in 16" tall and 12" diam. sono-tubes that have been camo'd. Then plastic 5' mesh is rolled and stapled about them to make a 4' tent over the top. The sono tubes are put in a safe, level spot over prepared ground and filled with enriched black earth. I use 1-3 4' camo'd garden stakes to knit the side and top of the mesh closed so that most animals cannot get to the seedlings. This year I finally have 100% seedlings except for one tube that was probably knocked over by a large bear or wolf. These seedlings were recovered. The above mainly stops smaller rodents and is the final defense against deer. I have to say that before adopting the sono/mesh & layers approach my loss of seedlings up to 2' plants was over 80% due to pests. Now it appears to be less than 10%
- I next put a few full circles of 40lb braided fishing line about the site. The lines are put at 1', 4' and 6' high but not placed on the level. I use braided versus mono as one year I came to my plot at daybreak and noticed a beautiful bright ring of dew-drops right about my plot hanging on the mono-filament. It looked like a giant spider web for catching helicopters. The braided line is less noticeable and the slope on the line lets the water droplets run off it and reduces the visibility of it. These lines work to deter deer and possibly rabbits and larger carnivores.
Chemical
- I basically use _everything_ as I am fighting many species of pests.
- One the plant I use insect repellent.
- Around the sono tube I use:
- - snail/slug bait.
- - Irish spring It really seems to work but you have to use 1 bar / tube cut up into 1/6's.
- - mothballs (lots) Note that the mothballs and Irish Spring are pressed into the earth as they can be visible.
- - A mix of: Tabasco and garlic in water & some motor oil just dripped about.
- - I do pee about the area on trees when there.
I have not used human/dog hair yet as a) DNA and b) no dog but once did get a piece of bear pelt from a buddy. So I do put bits of bear hair in the surrounding trees by rubbing the pelt piece over the nearest trees.
I also am hesitant to use bone meal, manure, etc unless I put it in the ground the fall before hand after harvest. BTW, It's feels really kinda weird to visit your site after harvesting in the late fall. Plus it's hunter season too for extra fear-factor....
I have gathered what is obviously carnivore scat at times, full of bones, and brought it to the site.
One final thing aside. I think the sono-tube presents another physical barrier to insects and is just hard to climb. I also think that the above ground sono-tube idea also keeps the root ball mass warmer. I notice that the plants get bigger faster and when they reach the 3'+ level I re-knit and open the tops of the mesh to let them grow up through the open tube of mesh.
That's it.
I have found that you need to have multiple lines of defense as follows:
Physical
- Plants are mainly seeded and grown in 16" tall and 12" diam. sono-tubes that have been camo'd. Then plastic 5' mesh is rolled and stapled about them to make a 4' tent over the top. The sono tubes are put in a safe, level spot over prepared ground and filled with enriched black earth. I use 1-3 4' camo'd garden stakes to knit the side and top of the mesh closed so that most animals cannot get to the seedlings. This year I finally have 100% seedlings except for one tube that was probably knocked over by a large bear or wolf. These seedlings were recovered. The above mainly stops smaller rodents and is the final defense against deer. I have to say that before adopting the sono/mesh & layers approach my loss of seedlings up to 2' plants was over 80% due to pests. Now it appears to be less than 10%
- I next put a few full circles of 40lb braided fishing line about the site. The lines are put at 1', 4' and 6' high but not placed on the level. I use braided versus mono as one year I came to my plot at daybreak and noticed a beautiful bright ring of dew-drops right about my plot hanging on the mono-filament. It looked like a giant spider web for catching helicopters. The braided line is less noticeable and the slope on the line lets the water droplets run off it and reduces the visibility of it. These lines work to deter deer and possibly rabbits and larger carnivores.
Chemical
- I basically use _everything_ as I am fighting many species of pests.
- One the plant I use insect repellent.
- Around the sono tube I use:
- - snail/slug bait.
- - Irish spring It really seems to work but you have to use 1 bar / tube cut up into 1/6's.
- - mothballs (lots) Note that the mothballs and Irish Spring are pressed into the earth as they can be visible.
- - A mix of: Tabasco and garlic in water & some motor oil just dripped about.
- - I do pee about the area on trees when there.
I have not used human/dog hair yet as a) DNA and b) no dog but once did get a piece of bear pelt from a buddy. So I do put bits of bear hair in the surrounding trees by rubbing the pelt piece over the nearest trees.
I also am hesitant to use bone meal, manure, etc unless I put it in the ground the fall before hand after harvest. BTW, It's feels really kinda weird to visit your site after harvesting in the late fall. Plus it's hunter season too for extra fear-factor....
I have gathered what is obviously carnivore scat at times, full of bones, and brought it to the site.
One final thing aside. I think the sono-tube presents another physical barrier to insects and is just hard to climb. I also think that the above ground sono-tube idea also keeps the root ball mass warmer. I notice that the plants get bigger faster and when they reach the 3'+ level I re-knit and open the tops of the mesh to let them grow up through the open tube of mesh.
That's it.
I have been doing some web searching (uk) for animal repellants & apart from Lion Dung any pelleted ones contain at least 88% Aluminium Ammonium Sulphate , said to deter Deer , Rabbit & Fox for up to 3month with a pellet spread of 6ins or so apart . If you could find this chemical then you may be on a winner .
Stay green .
Stay green .
hello
I had problems with deer two seasons ago when they ate almost all the leafs from my young plants, only stems remaind (they recoverd, but lost a lot of veg time.
So last year i decided to do something about. I got info from guys on our local cannabis forum. so let me summarize what i advice i followed:
- didnt put plants out too early when other vegetation is still scarse and deer have littel to eat
- i put a thin wire around my spot about 75cm (2,5 feet) high.
Didnt think the wire would help much but it was cheap an i tried it. I had no or minimal damage last year (on the smame spot). I heard some folks from my area had success with spraying young plants with mixture of water and tabasco (twenty or thirty drops in half a liter of water). It is only temporary becouse the rain washes it off. But from my experience deer leaves alone cannabis when it gets bigger and when it starts to flower.
There are a lot of recepies for repelling deer but i like to use simpel ones (barriers - wire or branches).
my two cents
I had problems with deer two seasons ago when they ate almost all the leafs from my young plants, only stems remaind (they recoverd, but lost a lot of veg time.
So last year i decided to do something about. I got info from guys on our local cannabis forum. so let me summarize what i advice i followed:
- didnt put plants out too early when other vegetation is still scarse and deer have littel to eat
- i put a thin wire around my spot about 75cm (2,5 feet) high.
Didnt think the wire would help much but it was cheap an i tried it. I had no or minimal damage last year (on the smame spot). I heard some folks from my area had success with spraying young plants with mixture of water and tabasco (twenty or thirty drops in half a liter of water). It is only temporary becouse the rain washes it off. But from my experience deer leaves alone cannabis when it gets bigger and when it starts to flower.
There are a lot of recepies for repelling deer but i like to use simpel ones (barriers - wire or branches).
my two cents
A 200 pound grasshopper is one tough fucker. Iv pissed shit puked farted and spit. Ive used noisemakers like the little landscape frogs with a motion sensor that starts croaking, Deer away, Deer repellant, Animal repellant, wolfe piss, coyote piss, human hair, moth balls, hot sauce, rotten eggs and every other horse shit product on the market over the many years and am here to report that they are all pure crap.
Cannabis isnt a deers prefered food and if there has been plenty of moisture and thier natural foods are plentiful, then the threat isnt that great. If natural foods are low and the deers are covering lots of ground each day just to find forage then youre plain ole fucked unless you have a cage or a fence. A hungry deer will eat tree bark, clothes off the line and just about anything that a goat will eat. There is litterally nothing you can buy to repell them.
When Silverback was around, he had developed a method of making an extract of local plants that deer in his area didnt' eat and spraying his cannabis with that extract, which made the cannabis plant smell like a plant they dont like. He was using wild onion extract with good result. He had soaked cedar branches and milkweed and those products seemed to make the deer think the plant was not edible.
The older the plant, the safer you are but ive had deer run over my plant and break it over as often as ive had it eaten. I avoid that with a big stake.
Good luck
Cannabis isnt a deers prefered food and if there has been plenty of moisture and thier natural foods are plentiful, then the threat isnt that great. If natural foods are low and the deers are covering lots of ground each day just to find forage then youre plain ole fucked unless you have a cage or a fence. A hungry deer will eat tree bark, clothes off the line and just about anything that a goat will eat. There is litterally nothing you can buy to repell them.
When Silverback was around, he had developed a method of making an extract of local plants that deer in his area didnt' eat and spraying his cannabis with that extract, which made the cannabis plant smell like a plant they dont like. He was using wild onion extract with good result. He had soaked cedar branches and milkweed and those products seemed to make the deer think the plant was not edible.
The older the plant, the safer you are but ive had deer run over my plant and break it over as often as ive had it eaten. I avoid that with a big stake.
Good luck
