Best way to defrost frozen trim to run bho?

[jump /injack]

To some degree, yes. At the temperatures that you're talking about, the proteins will denature and the microorganisms and their spores will be killed. Many mycotoxins and MVOCs will remain intact, if present however. Some powdery mildew causing species don't produce mycotoxins but it can be caused by many species, so it's impossible to say for certain that mycotoxins won't be present. Even if they aren't, you still wouldn't really want to smoke the MVOCs present.



That's not quite how I put it bro. I wrote that a water cure could remove any loose mold fragments and polar mycotoxins, not that it would make it suitable material to smoke. I then went on to say that if the water cured material is extracted with butane while still slightly damp, the mold should freeze solid and prevent the butane from extracting the cellular contents. The trick would be to make sure that the material isn't so damp that the trichomes are covered in ice. It's important to state that it was just a theory, although based on certain facts. I suggested the method to someone a few years ago. He water cured slightly moldy buds for two hours, just long enough to saturate any mold before draining until slightly damp. He then extracted with butane, dissolved the BHO in ISO and filtered with a 1.2 µm filter. His smoke report was as follows...

Gunnaknow/GrayWolf thanks for hanging in there with me, my learning curve on this procedure is straight up, not as bad as some things but you want to do it the right way, good incentive here is your health. Would not buy this stuff from anyone now after finding out how many make it. I'm going to have to start reading a little more carefully when you guys say something. I had no idea that I would get 'hooked' on scrambling for knowledge, not many places you can go for advanced classes in hash making, rather an arcane subject. One of the things learned is its better not to get powdery mildew in the first place. Just used FOAF's bags for the first time rather than scraping, will 'winterize' this batch and run it through a .02 Whatman. Done right I can see why this is very expensive stuff or so I hear. What does this go for retail on the average anyway [done right]?

 

[Gray Wolf]

Gunnaknow/GrayWolf thanks for hanging in there with me, my learning curve on this procedure is straight up, not as bad as some things but you want to do it the right way, good incentive here is your health. Would not buy this stuff from anyone now after finding out how many make it. I'm going to have to start reading a little more carefully when you guys say something. I had no idea that I would get 'hooked' on scrambling for knowledge, not many places you can go for advanced classes in hash making, rather an arcane subject. One of the things learned is its better not to get powdery mildew in the first place. Just used FOAF's bags for the first time rather than scraping, will 'winterize' this batch and run it through a .02 Whatman. Done right I can see why this is very expensive stuff or so I hear. What does this go for retail on the average anyway [done right]?

Thanks for the good thoughts bro!

Solly, no idea what it sells for, as we make our own oil, and don't sell any. We donate the oil from our gardens surplus, as well as trim donations, to patients for free.

 

[gunnaknow]

You're more than welcome, jump /injack. There are lots of members here who like to help others when they can. You seemed to not be familiar with bubble hash before. I'd recommend that you give that a try at some point. It's probably a better pretreatment of moldy material than water curing. Almost all of the mold will be removed with the waste buds and water and the hash can then be rinsed through with clean water, dried, extracted with alcohol and fine filtered.

 

[jump /injack]

You're more than welcome, jump /injack. There are lots of members here who like to help others when they can. You seemed to not be familiar with bubble hash before. I'd recommend that you give that a try at some point. It's probably a better pretreatment of moldy material than water curing. Almost all of the mold will be removed with the waste buds and water and the hash can then be rinsed through with clean water, dried, extracted with alcohol and fine filtered.

Gunnaknow, I was doing the water curing so that I could get a smoother smoke with out the coughing, had some lung ops and the hack was getting to me and the water cure took care of that. I've got some bubble bags that I could use during the water changes, good thoughts there. Will sulphur fumes get rid of powdery mildew, got a closet that I could set up using one of those reptile heating lamps as an igniter [wrong word]. This was another idea from icmag.

 

[gunnaknow]

Do you mean to treat the buds with sulphur or vegetative plants? The former would be a very bad idea. It would even be overkill for powdery mildew on vegetative plants in my opinion. You can spray them with Greencure or a weak sodium bicarbonate solution and you can also increase the level of air movement and ventilation in the grow room.

 

[jump /injack]

Do you mean to treat the buds with sulphur or vegetative plants? The former would be a very bad idea. It would even be overkill for powdery mildew on vegetative plants in my opinion. You can spray them with Greencure or a weak sodium bicarbonate solution and you can also increase the level of air movement and ventilation in the grow room.

Can't find the article now but it was a short fumigation technique that he'd developed for powdery mildew and spider mites, the process was for about 15 minutes of use utilizing the lamp shown at site url below as a heating unit underneath a stainless steel bowl with sulphur powder in it. He used it in the vegetive state and said it worked well? This last cycle I had both powdery mildew and spider mites, seemed rather a benign treatment and for a short time.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti...0110895&sr=8-17&keywords=reptile+heating+lamp

 

[gunnaknow]

Powdery mildew is relatively simple to get rid of but if you've got spider mites, sulphur is one of the few things guaranteed to wipe them out. Just make sure that you don't use it anywhere near any flowering plants. You can spray flowering plants with a weak sodium bicarbonate solution, along with a surfactant. It won't control the mites but it will control the mildew. Although you still need to make sure that you've got good air movement and ventilation. Good luck buddy.