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Best guerilla soil approach (for low soil quality sites)

romanoweed

Well-known member
Oh i forgot: you can even more clearly define if the Ph is not to high trough other Vegetation wich grows there. I actually forgot wich plants can indicate good, and wich bad ph. But one i remember: nettles are good indicator.. But i tell you, you should be able to use common sense for that. If there grow just strange Plants, completly akward ones, you might have unsuitable ph for cannabis.. Again i cant tell exactly, but trust your phantasy. The Evergreen formula is saver still. So just atleast avoit too much Evergreens/ needle-trees, i remeber this one clearly
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
If you're going to start a-mending the soil, you first need to know what's a-broke.

I paid about $30 for a soil test. A lab sent out a little box for me to fill and return. Using a tube I took a 150mm long core sample, 50mm wide, which filled the box nicely. The $30 test was the basic P-K-Mg test, plus a couple of extra's. Ca, pH and CEC (and maybe more, but I can't say exactly which customer I am). One site had grown tall but sparse plants, light in colour and dropping lower leaves. No decent sized heads, but always finished first. The report showed less than 10ppm of P, 200 of K and 300 of Mg. 3000 of Ca with a Ph little over 6. 10ppm, scores no marks out of 5. It's not even 1.5g per meter (150mm deep). I had to put down 5 times more, just to scrape a 4 (out of 5). The K was 30g, scoring 2.5 and 40g more scored a 4. The Mg was a 5, which was good as it's often in Calcium containing products, and Calcium here was already scoring 8 out of 5. Too much, where 5 is the level a good field crop likes. According to defra. Who don't publish for cannabis specifically.

This was a bit too much of my story, but the concern is, I could of easily added a balanced amendment to that site, and pushed Ca and Mg to much. While doing little about the actual glaring problem of too little P.

A test can help you know just what to carry, and then you might be able to forget about bags of compost. If it's sandy land, you might find it holds little, and is incapable of doing so, meaning regular applications throughout the growing season. Some heavy clay might hold lots. Both might like a nice lightweight coco brick carrying in. Then dress the surface with whatever the rain needs to dig in for you over winter. You rain may differ to mine though. I can chuck down stuff in January, which average rainfall will take care of. Then I don't feed at the root again.

Basic soil types are usually obvious, and the simple act of trying to make a ball in your hands with it, is a great pointer. If you have a good dark loam, then a pocket full of the right thing, can be all you need. And $30. And a back story. Perhaps a friend offering the corner of her horse field for veggies, but you being unsure about it being good for arable use, after years as pasture. Or a garden, that's been lawn, grown on soil that came in by lorry from dunno. Though they likely won't ask, it's good to seem human.
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
hy f-e


Im totally a fertelizer-knob.. have no idea what to do .
What would you say: like you seem to imply, i can bring out all These substances that fall into this category in winter... is that ok? dont i have to bring them into earth monthly? im interested, cause that would appeal much more than adjusting , adjusting and adjusting....
 
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