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Anyone have exp. with FORBID?

smurfin'herb

Registered Cannabis User
Veteran
http://www.rosemania.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page9.html

Forbid Miticide/Ovicide (8oz) Now More Affordable!
$279.99

Control all stages of mites and whiteflies with new Forbid™

Forbid offers outstanding knockdown and residual control of mites and whiteflies. The active ingredient in Forbid, spiromesifen, represents a new class of chemistry from Bayer Environmental Science, called the tetramic acids. Thanks to its novel mode of action, foliar-applied Forbid offers growers an effective tool for management of mites resistant to conventional products. It features translaminar activity, controlling mites on both sides of leaves, and has activity from egg through adult life stages (This means you can spray the top of the leaves and Forbid will still kill mites on the underside!) Usage is only 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoons per gallon of spray solution.
Insects Controlled

* Spider mites
o twospotted spidermite
o southern red mite
o maple spider mite
o honey locust spider mite
o Euonymus mite
o boxwood spider mite
o tumid mite
o Lewis mite
* False spider mites
* Rust mites
* Tarsonemid mites
o broad mites
o cyclamen mite
* Whiteflies
o silverleaf
o greenhouse
o sweetpotato

Not for greenhouse use or on vegetables or fruit trees.

So u guessed it, i got mites:yoinks:! I was wondering if anyone has used this stuff...? I have read over and over ppl raving about floramite especially when used in conjunction with stirrup M., and although it has many benefits, it requires you to spray under the leaves. I have a rather large setup and do multiple 1 foot plants on a drip which makes it near impossible to get under the plant unless i were to unstake each dripper from the plant and individually turn it on its side an spray underneath, then replace. Forbid looks the same as floramite, but with an easier application process. You just spray the tops of the leaves and it kills the mites AND eggs on the bottom. I wonder if it lasts as long as floramite, or if you have to keep re-applying it....?

I just sprayed the ladies with some take down i had laying around cuz its all i had at the moment that was better than neem for my situation cuz it contains pyrethins. I have avid readily availiable, but again, i have a large # of short plants on a drip, and to spray each one top and underside is asking waaaaaaayyyy too much. What would you guys suggest for someone in my situation...? Pyrethin foggers..? Hot shot pest strips..? I usually mix dr. bronners soap and neem oil and spray once per week thru veg and all the way up to week 3-4 flower, but due to certain circumstances i broke my regimen and look what happened! The damn borg set up camp!
 
T

trich-zilla

I also have a bottle and it does work great! Mix with floramite for an extra special cocktail that I will absolutely attest works fucking great!

Please put a suit on if you're gonna do this.. respirator at absolute least!
 

smurfin'herb

Registered Cannabis User
Veteran
So im about to buy floramite, pylon, and judo or forbid with stirrup m so that they dont start to develop a resistance to any one. Im willing to drop some big cash to get a decent integrated pest management regimen going. Does anyone on here have any good experiences with FORBID...? Is it worth buying...? How bout pylon or judo...? Floramite pdf reccomends NOT to spray until runoff, so how does everyone get away with dunking clones and plants in it? just lower the dosage? if so, how much..?

Both kill all stages of growth including eggs, but FORBID is easier to apply, but im not sure how long it lasts for when compared to floramite, does anyone know? Floramite is 28 days it hink, but i dont know what forbid is... anyone...?
 
yo,

I have no experience with those products, but have used avid a few times. I dunk with 1ml per gal.

The plants in my sig where heavily infested with mites during veg. I pruned all plants back dunked them in 5ml avid (in 5 gal bucket). Killed all mites as far as I was concerned. Plants continued to thrive into flower.

Just finishing up bloom now and some mites are back right before the chop. I did however had a small plant (off to the side - not in my system) that became heavily infested and later cut down..so mites were in the room with avid dipped plants - and eventually will move in on them.

That being said..if I were you I'd dunk right after rooting (before transplant)..and once a week during veg hit them as best as possible with neem mixed with dutch master penetrator (as a preventitive)... I'm pretty confident that you'll eliminate your mite problem.

go ahead and toss a hot shot in veg for good measure.

no need to drop big cash - some local shops sell this stuff by the mL. I get 5ml for $5 at my local spot.

dunk everything before going into your bloom room and you'll be good to go. again, if you dunk right after root you may want to use some other preventitive measures to keep em off if they are still around. dunking in floramite, avid, etc definately kills ALL mites on that particular plant...I've had a completely webbed over flowering trainwreck next to some avid dipped nycd and the nycd was perfect w/o mites (or at least I couldnt find em).

dunk any clones gifted from friends regardless if they "promise" they are pest free or not.

try to have fun - cause mites are the complete opposite. fn bastards.
peace
pm
 

smurfin'herb

Registered Cannabis User
Veteran
Thanks man. I just want to get these expensive ass sprays and have it be over with forever.
Avid is translaminar, but it only kills adults, so lots of applications are involved, which i dont have time for unfortunatley. Plus, i want to get a variety of stuff so that mites dont buildup a resistance to any one of them anytime soon. I plan on breaking down the bottles and selling some to local growers so that none of my dudes have mites anymore. It makes no sense if im the only one who uses an integrated pest management program. Reason being, I visit different grows a lot for various purposes, and i could verrry easily pick up some mites/eggs on my clothes while taking cuttings and then bring them back to my treated plants without even knowing. I wouldnt wanna bring mites near a plant if it hasnt been treated for 2 weeks or more. Floramites max life is a month, so you could spray floramite, then 14 days later introduce mites/eggs unknowingly....At this point, the floramite is probly not acting as strong as it was at first, and now that gives those bastards 2 full weeks to fuck shit up before the next spraying, if you can even do another spraying before buds set in too thick!! I flower from clone, and on most of my strains, i wouldnt dream of spraying anything on them when they are 4+ weeks into flower, So this means i could only do one application of floramite or whatever im using at that time, throughout the whole grow. I can hit my sativas w/ spray @ 4weeks tho, not indicas.

Ive been thinking about predator mites too tho, does anyone have experience with these?
Would be great if they worked as well as the chemical stuff.
 

skindvr4

New member
One good spray with Forbid is all it takes. I had a heavy infestation and it killed them ALL. That was two years ago. No re-infestation. A friend had the same issue. I told him "No worries"! I came to the rescue.....One spray and DONE!!! Forbid is labeled for ornamentals only. However, the same product,Forbid (spiromesifen), is also marketed as "Oberon" by Bayer. Oberon is the same as Forbid, and is marketed for use on food crops, such as corn, strawberries, and potato crops. It is safe.
 

minds_I

Active member
Veteran
Hello all,

I have tried to find in the liturature about being used on produce....its says its only for ornamentals.

Is this stuff ok to use on consumable plants?

Avid is labeled for food crops.

minds_I
 

SiriusB

New member
Judo (aka Forbid) Miticide Efficacy

Judo (aka Forbid) Miticide Efficacy

I recently aquired a sample of Judo miticide for use on a bunch of Original Trainwreck clones from Northern California. The reason I mention their origin is because two-spotted spider mites from Humboldt/Mendocino counties are *notoriously* difficult to control due to excessive use of the same three miticides - Pyrethrum, Floramite and Avid.

Anyway, I treated these with Judo at the high rate (1.2 mls per gallon) and I have not been able to find any juveniles/adults or eggs. I will still go in and treat with Pylon soon before I flip but for now, I am **very** impressed with Judo.

An interesting side note regarding Judo and mite resistance. Judo's mode of action is to inhibit lipid biosynthesis (making any and all cell division virtually impossible). This makes me wonder how even two-spotted SMs could build up a resisitance. In any case, I am completely satisfied as my problem on the trainwreck was an early one - one where you have to worry about killing eggs and that is what Judo actually does better than killing juvenilles/adults!!

Cheers and good luck!

SiriusB:dueling:
 
P

PkRipper

nothing works better , i even use it as a non dairy creamer in my coffe ,then i have to do is pee on my plants and nothhin will chew on them all season ...

my bottle is labled for $60 , is this cheap or really fuggin old? still work wounders....
 

crippled1

Member
skindvr4 is correct. Forbid and Oberon do have the same active ingredient. This is the answer I got from Bayer about it...

You are correct. Oberon and Forbid 4F contain the same active ingredient, Spiromesifen. The difference exists because they are sold by two different divisions within the Bayer organization and they are distributed through different retail channels. Each of these 2 divisions applied for labeling of the products, through the EPA, to support different industries. Oberon is a Crop Science product and is labeled for use on certain food crops. Forbib is an Environmental Science product and is labeled for use in industries such as Landscape Management and Pest Control.

But still, you have to wonder, yes this chemical is approved for use on food crops that are meant to be ingested.
Using this on your tobacco crop and then smoking it is a whole different thing.
 
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