Great price, and worked exactly as advertised.
I will be buying more of these.
I will be buying more of these.
any good or bad experience with dxhydro...
- Thread starter angel4us
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Like I said B4.....the Mans work is Legit... Dan is good people
thisoldhouse
Member
I guess the concern would be not realizing when there are safer methods of protecting yourself. If you don't know what you need safety wise, you rely on the manufacturer to build it to code/safely. An example of a failure might be Hammerheads situation. It was corrected, but the end user should not have to do that. It would seem the criticism for the most part is a misunderstanding/incorrect application of code, which many people do, and not correctly protecting the circuits from overheating... i.e. circuit breakers. I think an acknowledgement that this mistake won't be made again would put the matter to rest.
thisoldhouse
Member
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well if u like looks of this wait till u see what it produces!!! dxhydro set me straight and walked me through it, this thing will do everything high temp cut off for each room , co2 monitered ,aux ac/fan,fire sensor,remote power drops for each room with cont and timed outlets (for vertical fans), cycle timed outlet for uv sterilizers, and of course 10000 watts flower room and 6 000 watts of veg room ....plus run 4 ton ac 3 split unit. AND mr. coffee machine and vaporizer!!!!
thanks for all guidance dan
now time to make the carbon scrubbers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All of those relays in the panel is definitely a code issue. I can see why it was done, to reduce cost, size of product, but you'd be mistaken if you thought an electrical inspector would approve it.
Ultimately that is the problem... code that doesn't address our situation, a lack of trust in having qualified electricians wire your rooms up, etc. So we turn to guys like DX would are providing a product that is asked to do too much and is ultimately unsafe. Not to single out DX because most products out there aren't properly done.
budleydoright
Member
When used for their intended purpose, which they are purpose built. I will stand behind my statement.
I think telling folks their purchase is unsafe, isn't completely straight. Especially since many are getting away from the real dangerous 15 amp heavy duty timers with a 1k or 2 600s stabbed into it.
Moving up from a typical timer based setup to the dx unit is a leap forward in safety.
The only instance is which this is code compliant is delineated in the link in post #59. I can guarantee you that there isn't a single person using this gear that complies with the stipulations in that code exception. Look for yourself. Breakers sized at over 300% of the downstream component's current rating is certainly unsafe, your opinion notwithstanding. While the switching component of these is vastly improved over a typical timer, the over-current protection has been, for all intents and purposes, removed. At least the 15 amp timers have a receptacle, wiring, and circuit breaker that are all rated for 15 amps.
If this gear came with a warning that it would not pass inspection and that it's usage could invalidate your fire insurance policy, fine. Let the informed buyer beware. It would be similar to speed equipment in California having the warning that it wouldn't comply with smog regulations. However, my understanding is that no such warning accompanies the gear.
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well if u like looks of this wait till u see what it produces!!! dxhydro set me straight and walked me through it, this thing will do everything high temp cut off for each room , co2 monitered ,aux ac/fan,fire sensor,remote power drops for each room with cont and timed outlets (for vertical fans), cycle timed outlet for uv sterilizers, and of course 10000 watts flower room and 6 000 watts of veg room ....plus run 4 ton ac 3 split unit. AND mr. coffee machine and vaporizer!!!!
thanks for all guidance dan
now time to make the carbon scrubbers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
good to hear ya got your shit. i was pullin for ya.
budleydoright
Member
I don't think many things in most grow rooms would pass code. Including simply buring a hid light outside of an approved sealed enclosure, yet almost everyone does it.
Running an inductive load HID fixture off of a timer with an under rated relay, overloading circuits, powerstrips. these are fire starters. Upgrqading to a DXsoundco, CAP powerbox etc.. is a step in the right direction. Like everything else in your kit, there is a certain amount of responsibility from the end user to use it right.
that said, rives, I know you know your shit and are technically correct. enjoy your posts and don;t disagree 100% with you.
and I have no relationship with dx or own any of his gear.
Running an inductive load HID fixture off of a timer with an under rated relay, overloading circuits, powerstrips. these are fire starters. Upgrqading to a DXsoundco, CAP powerbox etc.. is a step in the right direction. Like everything else in your kit, there is a certain amount of responsibility from the end user to use it right.
that said, rives, I know you know your shit and are technically correct. enjoy your posts and don;t disagree 100% with you.
and I have no relationship with dx or own any of his gear.
thisoldhouse
Member
I wouldn't say in this situation that it is a step in the right direction simply because there isn't proper over current protection, and therefore a fire hazard. It certainly looks nicer and would definitely be an improved addition to a grow room with code compliant protection. I'm not sure if Hammers situation is "the norm" or not.
That aside, I believe electrical inspectors would want lights hard wired and often this is accomplished with a gutter.
Thank you!
Thank you!
First of all, I want to thank all of my previous customers who have come out to support me in this post -and even the people who have offered some criticism -which is duly noted.
And Budley, Thank you! I was actually typing a reply that stated exactly what you said about running a startup as a one-man operation. I am not only a small manufacturer, but an MM patient. Stuff happens & sometimes I need a day to myself and I try to reserve weekends & other times for my children since I work 75 hours a week.
If you look closely, you will see that all of the receptacles on Angel's panel are 20A (all spec grade, made by US companies) & connected to 20A breakers, as is the case with all of the larger panels I produce. But the plugs connected to those 20A recept's will most likely be 15A. Further, Listed 15A recept's are rated, listed and approved to be installed on 20A circuits in the US. The Canadian code requires they be protected by 15 amp breakers which is why you will see 15A breakers/circuits on Tactician's panels.
I have NEVER used anything over a 30A OCPD on any circuit of any controller I have ever produced and I don’t claim that these controllers are listed or code compliant in any of my sales info. I use 410.62(C) to illustrate that the NEC has rules it is acceptable to install cord-connected lighting loads on circuits rated higher than the cord assembly and receptacle. To apply this code in its intended form, the user would need to locate the ballasts (listed luminaires) directly under the receptacle with no strain on the cord (I hope so) and with the cord visible from receptacle to ballast. It might be a stretch of the article’s intention. Is this an obscure section of the NEC? Absolutely NOT! If you have ever been to your local wal-mart, all of the lighting is installed on 50A circuits (I know this because I personally worked on dozens of wal-mart constructions from ’96 to 2000). While I would not run a 30A circuit to your living room, I have no problem with doing so for HID lighting in a grow room.
That being said, I think that the customer should be aware of the options. I’m going to address the issue and offer these controllers with 20 amp circuits. It’s just a couple of models and if it makes people feel safer, that’s a good thing. The reason I started this venture in the first place was to provide an economical, safe alternative to overpriced & over-advertised controllers with pretty screenprinting & packaging, wall-wart timers, power-strips, extension cords & some of the extremely dangerous DIY stuff I have seen (contactors screwed to a piece of plywood or worse).
Oh… and to whoever said “at least those timers are rated for the load” or whatever it was about the wall-wart timers: Have you seen what a 1000 watt HID will do to a cheap wall-wart timer? Relay contacts fused together; insulation melted; charred blades & receptacles… Most of the mechanical timers, rated for 15 amps, with a micro-switch or cheap little contact assemblies are barely capable of running a 400! The electronic timers usually have a relay the size of a (IDK but the size of something really small, with contacts the size of a pencil lead) –might be rated at 15 or 20 amps but not suitable for any HID load. I’m sure these timers are responsible for many grow room fires. If the timer, plug, cord or receptacle feels warm, something ain’t right!
HID lighting in the home: Metal Halide lights must be protected with tempered glass or containment barrier that accepts only safety (type O) lamps. The arc tube can explode, showering the surrounding area with pieces of 700 degree glass! NEC Art. 410.135(F)
240v lighting in the home: Any lighting supplied with over 120v is not allowed in an occupancy (home, hotel, boarding house, dormitory, etc –anywhere where people sleep) 210.6(A).
My note about voltage to anyone who cares: I will stand behind my OPINION that running your lights at 240v is actually safer than at 120, from a standpoint of fire protection. When you cut the amperage in half, you also decrease the voltage drop: meaning the heat produced at a failing connection is reduced, therefore reducing the likelihood of fire.
Insurance claims for grow room fire: Insurance company adjusters have one job – to find a reason NOT to pay a claim. If you are growing, they are not going to pay. They will drag your case out and appeal to federal court and you WILL lose because you were violating the law.
So the goal of the grower should be to protect your family, yourself & property from fire and to have defenses to minimize the damage a fire could cause if one did break out (and eliminate the possibility of loss of life). All of my controllers can be equipped with fire (heat) sensors, at a discounted price, that will kill all of the power going into the room (lights, fans, etc.). The last thing you want is to feed a fire with air-flow or fresh air!
NOTE that this option is not intended to be a life-safety device, is not a replacement for, and should be used in conjunction with conventional smoke and fire detection equipment. As much as I hate to recommend Sunlight Supply/NGW, I must give credit where due: Their Flame Defender automatic fire extinguishers are a MUST for anybody running HID lighting in their grow room and they sell them for CHEAP. I was so impressed with this product, I contacted the manufacturer to become a distributor. My cost, buying full pallet quantity, is less than you can go to your local hydro store & buy this product so, they (NGW) must be selling them to their retailers for cost or at a loss –Good Job NGW! If you are not familiar with the Flame Defender, search you-tube: there is a demonstration of some fool extinguishing a bunch of gasoline inside a garage or something!
Again, thanks a lot to all of the people who came out to support me while it seemed like I was being trashed. The 30A issue is something that I will address with my customers. My goal is to provide a good value for a safe product –Not a cheap one.
Maybe we can close this thread & call it a day! DX
Thank you!
First of all, I want to thank all of my previous customers who have come out to support me in this post -and even the people who have offered some criticism -which is duly noted.
And Budley, Thank you! I was actually typing a reply that stated exactly what you said about running a startup as a one-man operation. I am not only a small manufacturer, but an MM patient. Stuff happens & sometimes I need a day to myself and I try to reserve weekends & other times for my children since I work 75 hours a week.
If you look closely, you will see that all of the receptacles on Angel's panel are 20A (all spec grade, made by US companies) & connected to 20A breakers, as is the case with all of the larger panels I produce. But the plugs connected to those 20A recept's will most likely be 15A. Further, Listed 15A recept's are rated, listed and approved to be installed on 20A circuits in the US. The Canadian code requires they be protected by 15 amp breakers which is why you will see 15A breakers/circuits on Tactician's panels.
I have NEVER used anything over a 30A OCPD on any circuit of any controller I have ever produced and I don’t claim that these controllers are listed or code compliant in any of my sales info. I use 410.62(C) to illustrate that the NEC has rules it is acceptable to install cord-connected lighting loads on circuits rated higher than the cord assembly and receptacle. To apply this code in its intended form, the user would need to locate the ballasts (listed luminaires) directly under the receptacle with no strain on the cord (I hope so) and with the cord visible from receptacle to ballast. It might be a stretch of the article’s intention. Is this an obscure section of the NEC? Absolutely NOT! If you have ever been to your local wal-mart, all of the lighting is installed on 50A circuits (I know this because I personally worked on dozens of wal-mart constructions from ’96 to 2000). While I would not run a 30A circuit to your living room, I have no problem with doing so for HID lighting in a grow room.
That being said, I think that the customer should be aware of the options. I’m going to address the issue and offer these controllers with 20 amp circuits. It’s just a couple of models and if it makes people feel safer, that’s a good thing. The reason I started this venture in the first place was to provide an economical, safe alternative to overpriced & over-advertised controllers with pretty screenprinting & packaging, wall-wart timers, power-strips, extension cords & some of the extremely dangerous DIY stuff I have seen (contactors screwed to a piece of plywood or worse).
Oh… and to whoever said “at least those timers are rated for the load” or whatever it was about the wall-wart timers: Have you seen what a 1000 watt HID will do to a cheap wall-wart timer? Relay contacts fused together; insulation melted; charred blades & receptacles… Most of the mechanical timers, rated for 15 amps, with a micro-switch or cheap little contact assemblies are barely capable of running a 400! The electronic timers usually have a relay the size of a (IDK but the size of something really small, with contacts the size of a pencil lead) –might be rated at 15 or 20 amps but not suitable for any HID load. I’m sure these timers are responsible for many grow room fires. If the timer, plug, cord or receptacle feels warm, something ain’t right!
HID lighting in the home: Metal Halide lights must be protected with tempered glass or containment barrier that accepts only safety (type O) lamps. The arc tube can explode, showering the surrounding area with pieces of 700 degree glass! NEC Art. 410.135(F)
240v lighting in the home: Any lighting supplied with over 120v is not allowed in an occupancy (home, hotel, boarding house, dormitory, etc –anywhere where people sleep) 210.6(A).
My note about voltage to anyone who cares: I will stand behind my OPINION that running your lights at 240v is actually safer than at 120, from a standpoint of fire protection. When you cut the amperage in half, you also decrease the voltage drop: meaning the heat produced at a failing connection is reduced, therefore reducing the likelihood of fire.
Insurance claims for grow room fire: Insurance company adjusters have one job – to find a reason NOT to pay a claim. If you are growing, they are not going to pay. They will drag your case out and appeal to federal court and you WILL lose because you were violating the law.
So the goal of the grower should be to protect your family, yourself & property from fire and to have defenses to minimize the damage a fire could cause if one did break out (and eliminate the possibility of loss of life). All of my controllers can be equipped with fire (heat) sensors, at a discounted price, that will kill all of the power going into the room (lights, fans, etc.). The last thing you want is to feed a fire with air-flow or fresh air!
NOTE that this option is not intended to be a life-safety device, is not a replacement for, and should be used in conjunction with conventional smoke and fire detection equipment. As much as I hate to recommend Sunlight Supply/NGW, I must give credit where due: Their Flame Defender automatic fire extinguishers are a MUST for anybody running HID lighting in their grow room and they sell them for CHEAP. I was so impressed with this product, I contacted the manufacturer to become a distributor. My cost, buying full pallet quantity, is less than you can go to your local hydro store & buy this product so, they (NGW) must be selling them to their retailers for cost or at a loss –Good Job NGW! If you are not familiar with the Flame Defender, search you-tube: there is a demonstration of some fool extinguishing a bunch of gasoline inside a garage or something!
Again, thanks a lot to all of the people who came out to support me while it seemed like I was being trashed. The 30A issue is something that I will address with my customers. My goal is to provide a good value for a safe product –Not a cheap one.
Maybe we can close this thread & call it a day! DX
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