E
Eureka Springs Organics
Coots mix is just exemplary. It is just a basic mix of compost or vermicompost at approximately 1/3 with 1/3 sphagnum peatmoss and 1/3 drainage material. This basic mix arose from me and from Cornell. However I prefer less drainage material myself going closer to 15%. There is zero reason to use any dolomite or oyster powder for reasons of offsetting the pH in peatmoss, however I like to use oyster shell and some rock powders for their calcium and mineral content.
Any way to this base Coot adds the following to each cubic foot of potting soil mix:
1 cup kelp meal
1 cup neem meal
1 cup crab meal
4 cups Basalt
He planted directly into this. Cooking was invented by others so far as I know.
My mix (previously included rock phosphate but I only use it now if I am rich because the price has sky rocketed);
39 to 40% vermicompost sometimes blended with topsoil or compost; 39 to 40% low grade Premier sphagnum peatmoss; 13% multi-colored pea gravel. Presently I use rock dust which I get for free and tested against heavy metals at around 1%, homemade biochar from fir/pine shavings at 6 to 8% and add to every 4.6 cubic feet (wheelbarrow) coarse oyster shell 3 cups, kelpmeal 2 cups, rock phosphate 2 cups (if used) and occasionally 1/2 cup of alfalfameal.
So are you using the ph buffering of your composted material (which is at a much higher rate than most) to keep your ph in check?