a wicked pulse

[DHF]

Container size is not as important as the medium used in said container which brings us back to aerated and porous mixes that allow for rootzone/rootmass explosion with dialed feeds and drying out periods between feeds......so.....that said...

I grew 2 1/2 lb plants for almost a decade in 5 gal buckets of lavarocks , so again....more bout the medium than container size....

Got growbro`s that hit well over 1/2 lb plants in coco dtw with 1.5 gal pots....

All about the feed sequence and keeping said media "moist" and breathing for explosive rootmass and foliage growth till end of stretch.....

I`d give anything if I could slide yas my lost mex/skunk hybrid that Chem D couldn`t touch in all categories , but with fully rooted cuts under a 400 watt MH reflector for couple- 3 weeks veg would do 5 ft wide and 5-6 ft tall by end of cycle with nuthin but donkey dick laterals and main colas ftw.....

Chickenwire on the ceiling was the only way I could control her with spiderwebs of string openin up and holdin her heavy ass up....

I see similar results in your immediate future once yas find the proper hybrid and veg time to fill in the sideways canopy till end of cycle for max results and yieldage.....

D9......Respect....and....

Peace....DHF........

 

[village green]

Container size is not as important as the medium used in said container which brings us back to aerated and porous mixes that allow for rootzone/rootmass explosion with dialed feeds and drying out periods between feeds......so.....that said...

I grew 2 1/2 lb plants for almost a decade in 5 gal buckets of lavarocks , so again....more bout the medium than container size....

Got growbro`s that hit well over 1/2 lb plants in coco dtw with 1.5 gal pots....

All about the feed sequence and keeping said media "moist" and breathing for explosive rootmass and foliage growth till end of stretch.....

I`d give anything if I could slide yas my lost mex/skunk hybrid that Chem D couldn`t touch in all categories , but with fully rooted cuts under a 400 watt MH reflector for couple- 3 weeks veg would do 5 ft wide and 5-6 ft tall by end of cycle with nuthin but donkey dick laterals and main colas ftw.....

Chickenwire on the ceiling was the only way I could control her with spiderwebs of string openin up and holdin her heavy ass up....

I see similar results in your immediate future once yas find the proper hybrid and veg time to fill in the sideways canopy till end of cycle for max results and yieldage.....

D9......Respect....and....

Peace....DHF........

Were those 2.5 pound plants when you were running the 4 plant-5 light diamonds? The biggest plants with low wattage I've seen were those done by Heath. I know he refines his strains and dials his environment just like you.

 

[village green]

Quotes by Village green

“Would there be any advantage of using larger containers for plants that receive an eight to ten week veg time?”


there is no single answer to this question as the variables are too many but in general a 3.5 is good for a 5-6 week veg if you are using intense lighting. I'll try to put up a pic here for multiple reasons but it will show what can be done in a 3.5.

I think that this design “fools” the plant into behaving as if the container is much larger. As you can see from the photos roots do make it into the reservoir and there is a continuous hydraulic hook up throughout the device at all times. I don't think the plant senses root limitations the same way in this device because of this “hook up”.


“I'll be starting with cuttings of 12" length that are rooted on mother plants and will be taken as the mothers are transferred to the flowering room. I want to start them under 400 watt horizontal to start a good stretch and then move them to a vert 600 watt , two plants per bulb.”


I don't see any problems here.


“I want to do a vert scrog side by side with two strains, probably Sour 13 and C-99. I have 22' by 13' with 8' headroom. One third of the space will be for veg with remaining flowering. Here's the tricky part--I plan on building modular scrog units that can be moved from veg to flowering rooms. The rooms will be seperated by panda that can be pulled up for this. Can I elevate the PPK off the floor 2 to 4" and still maintain levels adequately with a float valve?”


my main reservoir and plant reservoirs are 7” off the floor but the reservoir could be lower if you run a higher water level in it to compensate. You need to do the basic math on your proposed container to see if it will handle the volume required with each pulse.


“One vert scrog will be 6' feet high with a 1000 watt bulb on a vertical light mover while the other scrog will be 3' feet high and stationary. Each bulb will have two plants. Each scrog will be started in veg around the 600. I want the screens to be 180 degrees with two screens on a PVC frame and 1' space between the screens. Each PVC frame will hold one plant in one PPK. Would 40" diameter between the inside screens be about right with bare bulbs? In other words between the inner screen on one modular to the inside screen on the other modular.

I know I will need to give this a couple of runs to get a good read on which layout is best for big plants.I wonder if the Sour could stretch enough for this if untopped. Do you think constant movement on the one bulb is less efficient than a cycle timer with two hour or six hour intervals?

I also thought of playing with the veg lighting setup so that one modular got stationary light at 400 watts while the other got 600 on a mover. In this scenario there would be no horizontal lighting and training would start immediately.

It would seem with one plant per screen, your espalier tech( I love that word, it sounds like somebody's being tortured in a spaghetti western LOL ) with overlapping branches would not work unless you sacrificed the ability to adjust to the bulbs, so weaving the branch leads to fill empty spaces, such as close to the main stem, might be an option.

Sorry for a bunch of questions. I should learn bullet points.”


I need to see a drawing or something to answer any of this.

d9

Thanks d9,
I had a long follow-up but the computer gods smiled on you.

 

[disciple]

 

[high life 45]

LOL my solo cups are manual flood and wick

I have 10 sour ds that are in beer cups siiting in a hot water heater drain pan. I just fill the pan with jacks and they wick it through the holes in the bottom of the beer cups.

 

[disciple]

 

[village green]

LOL my solo cups are manual flood and wick

I have 10 sour ds that are in beer cups siiting in a hot water heater drain pan. I just fill the pan with jacks and they wick it through the holes in the bottom of the beer cups.

You're probably not doing this anyway..but just in case. Make sure not to let them stay too wet especially if your temps get down in the 70s. I did this last year and developed fusarium wilt.
Blame it on laziness or a desire to grow worms.

 

[high life 45]

You're probably not doing this anyway..but just in case. Make sure not to let them stay too wet especially if your temps get down in the 70s. I did this last year and developed fusarium wilt.
Blame it on laziness or a desire to grow worms.

Thanks for the heads up... they drink everything within a few hours...

they are way too big for the cups... I am just at a point where I dont want to overgrow my self..so they are a bit root bound...

My ppk temp averaged at 80 the entire grow..

Something to do with the worms is the only reason I didn't have any rot issues.

 

[delta9nxs]

Hey d9, I saw when you were describing the high flow pump/manifold setup earlier you mentioned a 4" airgap, but the tutorial for handwatered solo ppks you talk about a shorter 2.5 or 3" air gap. Is the 4" airgap just for the pulse fed high flow variant, since it needs less help from the media wick?

Also, what pump timer are you guys using that allows changing the timing by seconds and hourly/half hourly etc feedings?

media porosity and environmental conditions dictate the height of the "air gap". if someone is hand watering they should not be using a mix with 35% porosity. something along the lines of 20-25% will work better because, usually, when someone hand waters they don't do it as often and so will need more water retention. so you move the "controlled water table" up.

when you automate somehow you can increase porosity to correspond to your watering program. and move the "controlled water table" down.

the "air gap" is really just another way to define the "controlled water table".

utilizing this principle you can control the sub-irrigated wetted profile. this can be described as an adjustment to the amount of water contained in the bottom half of the pot.

moisture distribution in a container full of media will not be the same at the top as the bottom because of gravity, which separates it along a gradient curve. more dense at the bottom.

changing the "air gap" gives you a tool for fine tuning your root zone environment.

i began this grow at 4" as that was what i was using at my other location but i have found the plants like 3.5" better here.

i think this is because of a higher overall metabolic rate.

the timer i'm using now is a sentinel drt-1. a very nice precise instrument. i can just enter in a program and adjust it at will without timing the actual events.

previously i used those green air analog repeat cycle timers. i screwed up and bought the ones with the photocell so you can have it turn off during the dark periods.

you want to run these 24/7 as you are watering the medium and not the plant.

i understand cap (art-dne) makes one for about 70 bucks that will work fine but i really like this 125 dollar instrument.

i have built them before from a cheap intermatic plug in on/off timer by removing the motor and hooking it to a drive belt with a wheel and contact strips and a bunch of other bullshit which will probably get you killed so don't do it.

but in case you are suicidal the motors in those things rotate exactly one turn per hour. so you can have it fire any number of seconds per hour by lengthening the contact strips. adjustment is a bitch!

 

[delta9nxs]

I don't know that seems like a lot of work trimming bud.

Crazy why would you do that to yourself.

i'm not trimming shit! i'll just whack them off and take them down to the highway wet and put a sign on them. i'm sure someone will stop for them soon. i'll discount it for the trim work.

 

[delta9nxs]

Container size is not as important as the medium used in said container which brings us back to aerated and porous mixes that allow for rootzone/rootmass explosion with dialed feeds and drying out periods between feeds......so.....that said...

I grew 2 1/2 lb plants for almost a decade in 5 gal buckets of lavarocks , so again....more bout the medium than container size....

Got growbro`s that hit well over 1/2 lb plants in coco dtw with 1.5 gal pots....

All about the feed sequence and keeping said media "moist" and breathing for explosive rootmass and foliage growth till end of stretch.....

I`d give anything if I could slide yas my lost mex/skunk hybrid that Chem D couldn`t touch in all categories , but with fully rooted cuts under a 400 watt MH reflector for couple- 3 weeks veg would do 5 ft wide and 5-6 ft tall by end of cycle with nuthin but donkey dick laterals and main colas ftw.....

Chickenwire on the ceiling was the only way I could control her with spiderwebs of string openin up and holdin her heavy ass up....

I see similar results in your immediate future once yas find the proper hybrid and veg time to fill in the sideways canopy till end of cycle for max results and yieldage.....

D9......Respect....and....

Peace....DHF........

hey, fred! this run is a cut finder. i had too many seeds laying around unproven.

i always do better from clone.

i took six cuts from each strain, one plant of each only. the plants i picked where the ones i thought were shaped best for this act. next run i may not top, either. i did it this time to stall the seedlings as much as for any other reason.

i also have a bunch of other non-feminized seeds but they will have to wait a while.

i have a bag of about a hundred grandaddy purps x great white shark? does anyone know anything about this stuff?

i would love to have that mex/skunk hybrid!

 

[delta9nxs]

D9,

are your plants showing any tendency to grow towards the light source and away from the screen?

hell, yes! i'm in there beating them back with a stick!

 

[DHF]

Were those 2.5 pound plants when you were running the 4 plant-5 light diamonds? The biggest plants with low wattage I've seen were those done by Heath. I know he refines his strains and dials his environment just like you.

I had a mex skunk hybrid that I actually got from my pot smugglin shrimp boat haulin ass dead uncle God rest his soul way back in the mid 70`s before columbian pot ever hit our shores and .......

Ran that bitch for 14 yrs outside and 12 inside before losin her to random crackheads breakin into my grow op and stealin the fuckin fridge all my ssedstock was in......

The only thing in the house and it was covering the cubbyhole access to my fliprooms and they never saw it cuz it was a smash and grab....but they got my most prized possessions and prolly shitcanned the beanage cuz they couldn`t sell em for more crack/crank........but I digress...

I had that bitch dialed backwards and forward with only 34 watts per sq ft in 10 x 10 rooms runnin 4-600`s in the corners and a cheap 1000 watt Metal Halide in the middle , with all plants catchin lumens from 3 bulbs at all times in that X pattern lights and diamond pattern plants you spoke of VG..... but....

When Krusty and Heath finally talked me into runnin 50 watts per sq ft , the end result with the same plant I`d been runnin for so long was as different as daylight and dark from denser nugs to crazy ass increased trichome production , and I was sold....

That`s why I preach it , cuz it won`t increase bottom line yields anywhere that it`s noticeable but.....

Quality with a dialed bitch will amaze and astound yas if yas know the said variety and have run her for awhile...bet on it....anyways....

Nuff outta my old ass in D9`s thread.....Now.....back to our regularly scheduled program.....

Peace....DHF.........

 

[disciple]

 

[delta9nxs]

"do you think there anything to be gained by growing the plants up behind the screen?"

i don't know, i've never done this before. but it seems to me that it might inhibit growth at this point. or, at least, the kind of growth i'm trying to get. these plants are being pushed hard in all regards right now. i want the plants reaching for the light now. the whole plant. by tomorrow afternoon they will have gotten 3 photoperiods since the tying back and the light defoliation on the 8th. i will do them again tomorrow.

below is one plant just to show the extent of re-leafing that has occurred.

in the center the plants, even though pulled back severely 2 days ago with the main stem and most of the larger laterals against the screens, show foliage to the leading edge of the buckets. the light intensity at this point is 1500 umols or about 7,500 foot candles. the maximum photosynthetic rate for cannabis.

also in this photo you can see by the 4" vertical sections of the fencing that most plants are approaching or are just past the 2' point and have a foot of screen left. the lower fence frame is 6" above the bucket tops and the fencing is cut to fit inside the frame so i have a total height above the bucket tops of 45"

after the session i will move the plants forward to bring them back to 1500 umols as i will be clearing the airspace over the forward half of the buckets.

in the last one you can see the distance between the plants and the lights. approx 10-12" from the tubes.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

I would recommend that you train your plants to the front of the screen. If you tuck them back threw the screen when it comes time to harvest you will be a sticky mess from undoing them. I find it is much easier to tie to the front because when it comes time to pull a plant out for harvest you will want to trim in a different room.

When I pull my plants I also run one or several stakes into the grow media and tie the plant to the stakes so they don't fall on the floor or snap branches.

This type of clip makes it easy to tie back to the screen and remove latter to move branches for better light penetration. It is the black clip to the left. They are reusable and very quick to install or remove.

 

[village green]

I had a mex skunk hybrid that I actually got from my pot smugglin shrimp boat haulin ass dead uncle God rest his soul way back in the mid 70`s before columbian pot ever hit our shores and .......

Ran that bitch for 14 yrs outside and 12 inside before losin her to random crackheads breakin into my grow op and stealin the fuckin fridge all my ssedstock was in......

The only thing in the house and it was covering the cubbyhole access to my fliprooms and they never saw it cuz it was a smash and grab....but they got my most prized possessions and prolly shitcanned the beanage cuz they couldn`t sell em for more crack/crank........but I digress...

I had that bitch dialed backwards and forward with only 34 watts per sq ft in 10 x 10 rooms runnin 4-600`s in the corners and a cheap 1000 watt Metal Halide in the middle , with all plants catchin lumens from 3 bulbs at all times in that X pattern lights and diamond pattern plants you spoke of VG..... but....

When Krusty and Heath finally talked me into runnin 50 watts per sq ft , the end result with the same plant I`d been runnin for so long was as different as daylight and dark from denser nugs to crazy ass increased trichome production , and I was sold....

That`s why I preach it , cuz it won`t increase bottom line yields anywhere that it`s noticeable but.....

Quality with a dialed bitch will amaze and astound yas if yas know the said variety and have run her for awhile...bet on it....anyways....

Nuff outta my old ass in D9`s thread.....Now.....back to our regularly scheduled program.....

Peace....DHF.........

I love reading your posts because its almost like you're deadset against any changes but results bludgeon you into changing course! True wisdom.

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

Looking sick.

 

[Mister_D]

I love reading your posts because its almost like you're deadset against any changes but results bludgeon you into changing course! True wisdom.

Hard to argue with results

 

[DHF]

I love reading your posts because its almost like you're deadset against any changes but results bludgeon you into changing course! True wisdom.

I`ve always had an open mind where growin dope was concerned , cuz indoor cultivation of this plant is STILL in it`s infancy......and...

D9`s newfangled contraption that keeps evolving and improving by all practical explanations should actually be killin plants with the high rez and rootzone temps his plants are "fluorishing" in , is proof positive that things ain`t always as they seem ..... and .........

Growin big plants fast in a hydro growth mode setup without any of the bells and whistles it takes to do it by everything I ever learned about "Death without cause setups" and ANY fast hydro setup just cements my decision that this setup will revolutionize big plant setups once all the i`s are dotted and t`s crossed with monocropped fliprooms runnin perpetually for guaranteed back to back production with no down time between crops......

Simple.....Babyshit....DHF.........