A/C experts! My front "fins" are turning into blocks of ice, lots of pics, help!

[Smokin Joe]

I think the last thing any qualified Air conditioning service man should be sugessting a layman do is check the refigerant charge or operating pressures. Especially when all other posibilities have not been ruled out.

Most likely the problem is not a loss of refrigerant.

We have verified that the indoor fan is operating, that the filter and evaporator coil are clean. So We are assuming it is not a reduced airflow across the evap coil problem.

He has stated several times that it all started when the temperature outside cooled off.

He as said the unit displays an outdoor temperature of 47* F.

Now the way i think this unit works, is it pulls room air over the condenser coil, and not outdoor air, but I suppose it could be ducted to pull outdoor air over the condenser coil.

But I do know that if the air blowing across the condenser coil is only 47* F, a low head pressure will result and with out controls to regulate the head pressure, in proper operating range, that the ultimate result will be an iced over evaporator coil after several hours of use.

Me thinks you need to reread his last post. Are you a tech? If so how did you learn? Also this unit is designed to work in low temps. Doy you know how a hot gas bypass valve works ?

 

[Private Joker]

I know you have said the fan is operating, but is it at full speed? I have had coils ice over from a slightly loose fan belt cause the fan to spin, but not at full speed.

 

[Avenger]

Me thinks you need to reread his last post. Are you a tech? If so how did you learn? Also this unit is designed to work in low temps. Doy you know how a hot gas bypass valve works ?

Ambient operating range 65° to 105°
May operate to 55° if equipped with optional factory
Installed hot gas bypass

http://www.spot-coolers.com/PDF/lowtemp/OACOACHMANUAL04282006.pdf


I read his last post. Where do you think i got the outside air temp data?

I have not seen the optional hot gas bypass circuit in the pics he has posted, so i am assuming he doesn't have that option anyway.

Yes i am a supermarket tech.

cheers.

 

[Smokin Joe]

http://www.spot-coolers.com/PDF/lowtemp/OACOACHMANUAL04282006.pdf


I read his last post. Where do you think i got the outside air temp data?

I have not seen the optional hot gas bypass circuit in the pics he has posted, so i am assuming he doesn't have that option anyway.

Yes i am a supermarket tech.

cheers.

Then maybe you missed this part of his post
One more thing, inside air sensor 72 degrees(the room temp) outside air 47 degrees( the air being pushed out). It has these sensors that measure this.
I have my set point to 70 degrees.

The air is coming out at 47 degrees
And the unit you posted info on is not the unit he has.
Maybe you missed this as well.
http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/2OAC6012.html
In his last pic in the first post Mod# 20ac6012

 

[Avenger]

this is the part that confused me.

OUTSIDE = supply air temperature,

I thought "OUTSIDE" was the condenser air temp.


I still doubt it is loss of charge that is his problem.


I'd try partially blocking the condenser air flow with cardboard and see if it helps, before advising a layman to check pressures.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Oh well I'm done here before the shit starts flying

 

[Avenger]

And the unit you posted info on is not the unit he has.
Maybe you missed this as well.
http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajm.../2OAC6012.html
In his last pic in the first post Mod# 20ac6012

not sure what point you are trying to score there.

The link I posted had data on all the model numbers.

does the 2 at the front of the model designate hotgas bypass or something?
edit: no it just means 2nd generation

Ambient operating range 65° to 105°
May operate to 55° if equipped with optional factory installed hot gas bypass

http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/2OAC2OACHMANUAL092003.pdf



lmao


anyway my point is that loss of refrigerant should be the last thing you assume.

 

[Smokin Joe]

not sure what point you are trying to score there.

 

[Avenger]

indeed.

what ever the problem is I hope he can figure it out. Thats a heck of a deal he got on that unit.

 

[6400k]

As I'm sure its already been said. Icy evap means lack of air flow over the fins, or low freon! If your refrigerant is leaking out its best to pick up a new AC off craigslist than to fix it.

 

[Holdin']

Okay from what I gathered he was never saying that his condenser entering temp was 47°... He was providing his DT...

Gray Market... If you don't have the funds/means to have a professional repair the unit or don't want to put any money into it because of how good of a deal you got... I'd say just try to sell it to somebody who wants to deal with it. I would buy that bad boy off you in a heartbeat Unfortunately I don't believe that we are going to be able to isolate your problem without you being experienced, nor having the tools.

There is the possibility that there is a leak, but there's the possibility it's not a refrigerant level issue... But due to the fact that the unit performed properly for months, none of your operating conditions have changed, and now you're creating a block of ice... It's VERY likely that whatever the problem may be, you won't be able to repair it yourself without the knowledge or the tools.

I guess you could go through all of the piping and coils and see if you notice any oil/oily residue... if you do... then you've likely found your leak. But after that, there's not much you can do.

Best of luck to you.

 

[Gray Market]

I ordered a r22 refill kit off eBay, I will let I know how it works when it comes. I know, I know, I need a professional blah blah blah, fuck it. Worth a try.

 

[Avenger]

did you try partially blocking the condenser air inlet?

 

[Gray Market]

Thanks galahad! I can't pm you, not enough posts yet. I will be getting gauges soon, then we can go from there. I have been watching a lot of YouTube videos and googling info, I'm not going into this blind, I will have basic knowledge before cracking it open.

 

[Avenger]

let us know how it turns out for you man. tools

I'm not trying to prevent you from recharging it if that is the problem. So i apoligize if my reluctance to guide you that way, until all other possibilities are ruled out, soured your thread.

did you find the source of the leak?

 

[OhighO]

What type of metering device does this unit have? I can't see the pics..

 

[Gray Market]

Here's what I got.
My gauge says 134a, how should I read it with the 22a?

 

[og79]

I had the same problem with the air handler freezing up on a 4 ton ac. It froze up every day for a week after working for 2 years. The thermosat was set at 71, when I changed it to 76 it never happened again. Its worth a try, and good luck.

 

[OhighO]

If you add that refrigerant a ddont need it you are going to ruin your compressor.

Do you have a multimeter? If so find the normal run amps " it should be listed on a sticker or on the wiring diagram"... Next take an amp reading at the compressor. If the amp meter is reading a couple amp lower than the NRA rating it indicates a low charge. This is because the compressor is drawing less power to run at its designed rpm.

I'm also a pro and we don't wan to see ou mess up your unit.

 

[OhighO]

If you add that refrigerant a ddont need it you are going to ruin your compressor.

Do you have a multimeter? If so find the normal run amps " it should be listed on a sticker or on the wiring diagram"... Next take an amp reading at the compressor. If the amp meter is reading a couple amp lower than the NRA rating it indicates a low charge. This is because the compressor is drawing less power to run at its designed rpm.

I'm also a pro and we don't wan to see ou mess up your unit.

****EDIT****

Do not recharge based on amperage. It is only another simple tool used to help pinpoint your problem. Also if you find a spot that leaked are you capable of brazing?