400w HPS Stealthcab FIRST GROW

[indigopisces]

So, I've been lurking on here and a few other forums for quite some time now and this being my first post please bear with me as I get the "forum etiquette" down.

With that said I've recently purchased a 400w HPS cab from a local company here in Colorado and I love it!

I haven't put any clones in it as of yet because I'm still concerned with the temp and RH fluctuations I experience every night.

You can kinda see the 100cfm corner fan I have in the top right in the cab and the only hole on the cab is that for the exhaust off the cool tube.

Included are some pictures showing you what the cab looks like closed & open. Also included are some pics of a small humidifier I've set in there for humidity control. And finally a picture of the "twist button exhaust" that's running a 6" vortex fan I think it's called? Taking all the hot air out of the cab via the cool tube.

Guys my problems are temp and humidity! HELP!
Lights off cab temp is 64-70 degrees and RH is anywhere from 50-71%. That I can deal with.
However when that darn HPS is on within 15 mins temp skyrockets to 85 degrees and RH is at 16%

Right now it's at 16% RH and 99 degrees!
What are my options?

So far I'm thinking of making a DIY humidifier based on this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pOr3_Ji3ys&feature=player_embedded

from page 3 of this thread:

http://forum.grasscity.com/general-indoor-growing/218207-diy-humidifer-chiller-small-grows-3.html

But need more advice as this is the only setback to me growing...

Any insight would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Hello. What's the intake setup like? 100cfms might cool the cab alone but I wonder if it's enough when you add a scrubber? I'm only using a 150wHPS, a 95cfm industrial blower (with a scrubber.) I've got the fan on a speed controller for noise control but I'm not sure if it would cool a 250, let alone 400. Don't let my assumption discourage, a few tweaks might get you running.

I'm no vortex expert but I didn't know there are 100 cfm models. Got anymore info like a name or model number?

 

[indigopisces]

Actually the intake right now is non-existant. :O
I know that this is a problem but since I'm "tool challenged" I'm trying to figure out the best way to make an intake with the minimal amount of tools.

As for the fan(s) I have two running right now. One hangs in the upper right corner of the cab- that's the 100 cfm one- faq here: http://www.suncourt.com/EntreeAir_Facts.html

The second fan is the vortex one and I don't know how many cfm it pulls but it's 6" and sits in the cool tube on the left side near the "twist button" exhaust

I'm just running the cab right now to try to control the atmosphere. 9pm to 9am
It's 104 and 16% humidity in there right now.

Whats the best way to cool this down without the need of expensive tools?

It's 5 minutes till 4:20, then I won't be so stressed about this haha

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Actually the intake right now is non-existant. :O
I know that this is a problem but since I'm "tool challenged" I'm trying to figure out the best way to make an intake with the minimal amount of tools.

What did you use to cut your exhaust fan hole? You need two more holes for intake, the same size as the exhaust hole. Intake holes should be cut in the lower part of the cab. You've already got your exhaust up high, good job.

As for the fan(s) I have two running right now. One hangs in the upper right corner of the cab- that's the 100 cfm one- faq here: http://www.suncourt.com/EntreeAir_Facts.html

Looks like a pretty good circulation fan.

The second fan is the vortex one and I don't know how many cfm it pulls but it's 6" and sits in the cool tube on the left side near the "twist button" exhaust

I can't really tell from the pic but if what I see is an exhaust fan, it looks more like a duct booster fan. Have you got any info on this fan? If it's a duct booster, I'm not sure if it'll cool a 400 but I'll wait till you get a chance to respond.

I'm just running the cab right now to try to control the atmosphere. 9pm to 9am
It's 104 and 16% humidity in there right now.

You're right, sounds hot and dry. Good you're getting familiar with everything so far.

Whats the best way to cool this down without the need of expensive tools?

If it were mine I'd cut two passive (no fan) intakes in the bottom or lower end of the cab. You'll need roughly 2 times the area of the exhaust. The easy way is to cut two holes the same size as your exhaust. If you're good with math, you can cut just one or any number or holes that equal or slightly exceed 2x exhaust. If you wish, I can show you the formula, it's pretty easy to figure area of a square, rectangle or circle.

It's 5 minutes till 4:20, then I won't be so stressed about this haha

Lol. Before you cut anything, lets make sure your exhaust fan is appropriate. If not, changing the exhaust might influence your intake size.

 

[bcell]

Also, is it possible the thermometer is not reading the correct temperature? Directly under the lamp "in the sun" it will show high, inaccurate. My LCD thermometer laying flat under the lamp will show 95-100 "in the sun" vs 75 "in the shade".

 

[Directrix]

this is looking real good man. I had a cabinet similar to that size for a 250w and I decided to do away with it and use a closet instead. I was only using a 250cfm duct booster fan and it wasn't cutting it. Even with two intakes. However I'm confident if you do it right, you can easily get your cabinet cooled down. I wasn't using a cool tube(I am now) and I didn't have direct intake. If you just get a better fan and follow what disco biscuit said you'll be operational in no time.

No, most thermometers measure ambient heat. It's rare for a thermometer to be way off. HID lights get hot! There's no joking around with them.

 

[bcell]

Check this out. Sort of explains the concept I am talking about. Reads 80 degrees in the sun in Greenland - it is really in the 20s.

http://www.usatoday.com/weather/resources/askjack/2006-08-21-shade-temperature_x.htm

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

I know what you mean, bcell. I only have a 150 but I've noticed the cab is a few degrees cooler when a large canopy exists in the cab. Whether "shade" temps translate to top of canopy temps I don't know. Then again, the swing isn't as big with a 150.

 

[indigopisces]

First of all:
DAMN you guys are good!

Disco: The exhaust hole came pre-fabbed.
I'm in the process of e-mailing it's "maker" to get the final specs on that fan.
I'm glad you were specific with where I should make the intake in relation to the exhaust, initially, I was going to have the guy come back and just drill a passive intake on the other side of the cooltube and run duct to the tube, to cool just the light.
Then, rely on the 100cfm corner fan to push around stagnant air.
Now that you've given me some MUCH needed insight, I'll probably have him drill 2 holes the size of the exhaust (6") on the same side as the exhaust, just to the left of my top reservoir... BUT- I'm not making any moves until I hear back with the fan specs, and I'll post those too.

Bcell: THANK YOU SO MUCH for clearing up the "where's the best place for my thermo/RH meter" question. I had it up underneath the light as my logic thought "well that's where my cola's would be" and just moving it down to the left of my res has lowered it more than 20 degrees! I appreciate you providing the link as well because as Disco said "I'm getting familiar" right now and need to understand the science as to WHY I place the thermo there, so again thank you.

The area of the wall in the pic is where I'm thinking of putting those two intakes... I still need to consider the summer temps as well...

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

First of all:
DAMN you guys are good!

Disco: The exhaust hole came pre-fabbed.
I'm in the process of e-mailing it's "maker" to get the final specs on that fan.
I'm glad you were specific with where I should make the intake in relation to the exhaust, initially, I was going to have the guy come back and just drill a passive intake on the other side of the cooltube and run duct to the tube, to cool just the light.

Not a bad idea. However, you'd need two exhaust fans with that setup. One for the tube and one for the cab. It would probably work better than my suggestion (1 exhaust fan) but it will cost more and the setup will be only slightly more complicated. It's not a requirement though. I think you can get satisfaction with one fan so long as it's capable of exchanging the air 2 to 3 times per minute, maybe more. Another thing, if the tube exhaust is indeed a duct booster, it might have trouble sucking through a carbon filter. Then again it might cut the mustard. If the manufacturer gives you any difficulty with the technicals, let me know who sells it and I'll try to help get your fan specs.

Then, rely on the 100cfm corner fan to push around stagnant air.

I think that corner fan should do the trick for circulation.

Now that you've given me some MUCH needed insight, I'll probably have him drill 2 holes the size of the exhaust (6") on the same side as the exhaust, just to the left of my top reservoir... BUT- I'm not making any moves until I hear back with the fan specs, and I'll post those too.

Sounds like a good plan. I'll check periodically to see what's up. I also recommend you scrutinize any suggestions you get. Consensus is always good and maybe you'll be fortunate and get some more info from peeps like Directrix who've had experience with similar setups. Sometimes you only get one shot at a major renovation so it's good you're getting things in line, maybe the first tweak will be the last. I learned the hard way and my original cab was so full of holes and patches I had to scrap it and do another cab. By then I knew what I was doing and it worked great. Hopefully (I'm pretty certain) you'll get this one right the first time around.

The area of the wall in the pic is where I'm thinking of putting those two intakes... I still need to consider the summer temps as well...

Those intakes, maybe even the exhaust hole will leak light. These light leaks will have to be trapped so external light doesn't leak into the cab during lights out. Light leak(s) can and will cause stress and male flowers on females (nanners) can mess your crop up with seeds. Light traps also keep others from realizing a light is on inside the cab.

BTW, I'm not sure how much you've read so please excuse if I mention something you already know. One of the best tips (especially if you're growing illegally) is to tell no one you're growing. Tip #2 is take care of smell (carbon scrubbers are best, IMO) #3 is don't sell but I'll leave that one up to you. Lots of growers sell their wares but I doubt they advertise their activities as a grower because anybody can rat you out if they're a punk, lol. No offense to punk rockers!

 

[littlebud]

i know at that humidity being that low you have to moisten your prefillter on your scrubber or it wont catch all of the smell..i have low humidity in my cab when lights are on..i just mist plants in veg every couple of hours and in flower i just let it stay negative...when you are exchanging air multiple times a minute with lights on it is hard to keep humidity up

 

[indigopisces]

I've got news! I found the specs for my exhaust fan here:
http://www.suncourt.com/InductorHydroponics.html
It's model DB206

Direct: You were EXACTLY right, it's 250cfm (max boosted)
and 160cfm (free air) not sure what "max boosted" is since it only has one speed. I thank you for the kind words on me being operational in no time. I WANT TO PLACE CLONES IN THERE SO BAD!

Disco: "so long as it's capable of exchanging the air 2 to 3 times per minute"
How do I figure this formula? I'd say it's what 30 cubic feet in there? Max?

"Hopefully (I'm pretty certain) you'll get this one right the first time around."
Keep your fingers crossed, I have the lumatek 400w digi ballast, and I didn't realize I had the setting on the 440w "Super Lumens" setting, I was reluctant to turn it down to 400 as I don't want to lose even one lumen. but that made it drop about 5 degrees.

"Light traps also keep others from realizing a light is on inside the cab."
I was thinking about this and possibly putting a vacuum filter on the passive intakes, it's difficult thinking about ways to trap in light without restricting airflow on a passive intake. Maybe a small piece of vacuum filter on the exhaust would trap all this light in without sacrificing airflow from my inline duct fan.
The thing I like about the "twist-button" is I can just twist it closed during nightime hours. Even if it's open lumens have to go through the duct before shining through the glass on the cooltube- highly unlikely...
As for smell, I was told putting a jar of ona inside the cab will not only eliminate odor for about 6 months, but it exhausts a fresh linen smell too!


So I don't know if this is more for for the introduce myself section but since it was brought up, I'll answer it here.
I'm turning 23 thursday and this cab is for medical purposes as both my mother and I are licensed MMJ patients. So I'm doing our family a favor and producing our own medicine now; rather than trusting the streets.

PLUS I think I'd be too nostalgic from the fact that I grew these "wares" to let them leave my hands anyways.

As far as plants are concerned my plan was to visit my dispensary and pick up two "ready to flower" clones ASAP, I'm thinking bio-diesel and super lemon haze (damn how I love that super lemon haze )

Littlebud: I'm afraid of infestation if it drops below 50% and It's Jorge Cervantes fault lol. "How negative" do you let it drop?
And you're right "when you are exchanging air multiple times a minute with lights on it is hard to keep humidity up" so what do growers do to usually combat this? The humidifier I placed in there doesn't produce any noticable results. I was thinking of purchasing this: http://www.walgreens.com/store/cata...prod3927793&navCount=0&navAction=push-product. What do you think?


Can someone PM so we don't bog the thread down with useless info; I have a couple forum questions and don't know where to ask such as: How do I move this thread to grow diaries? What about this file attachment limit I see when uploading pics? What does bump and reputation mean?

Thanks again for all your help guys, I expect to be operational within 72 hours...

 

[gdbud]

and 160cfm (free air) not sure what "max boosted" .

160cfm (free air) is the amount the fan will push if the the fan was sitting on a table with nothing attached to it.
Once you start adding diffusers (the round thing attached to the outside) duct work, cool tube, scrubber ect. you will see an increase in static pressure (the amount of air pressure required to push the air through these devices). As the static pressure increases your air flow will decrease and this type of fan will not handle the static pressure at all.
I'm running my cabinet at 10 degrees above room temp with only 85cfm.
One way to calculate you cfm is by using (exhaust temp. - entering air temp.) /(total watts * 3.16)

 

[gdbud]

I'm using a 6" ecoplus inline fan out put is 440 cfm at 0" wc.
It's comparable to the fantech brand.

When look at fans the cfm rating is only half of the equation the other half is static pressure or inches of water column.

I know this is hard to read so I will put the information out that is easier to read.

Fantech fan 6" inline fan
Static pressure 0"= 483cfm, 0.1"= 466cfm, 0.2"= 450cfm, 0.4"= 409cfm, 0.6"= 369cfm, 0.8"= 329cfm, 1.0"= 289cfm, 1.25"= 243cfm, 1.50"= 201fcm, 2.0"= 103cfm.

As you can see the static pressure on your system can adversely affect you cfm.

On my cabinet I'm using a high performance furnace filter on the intake -> cool tube -> duct -> fan -> carbon scrubber.
The Scrubber is a flat bed has a screen -> prefilter -> 1 1/2" carbon -> filter.

I use the following formula to calculate my cfm.
cfm = (exhaust temp - interning air temp)/3.16 * total watts

When I turn the fan on high I'm running at about 210 cfm off of a 440 cfm fan, So by looking at the chart my cabinet has a total static pressure of between 1.25" and 1.50". I lost over 1/2 of my fans total cfm due to static pressure.

I'm able to keep my cabinet at 10 degrees above ambient tempture with only 85 cfm and running the fan at 1/2 speed.
I still have plenty of fan speed to work with. __________________

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

I've got news! I found the specs for my exhaust fan here:
http://www.suncourt.com/InductorHydroponics.html
It's model DB206

That's a duct booster. It's probably too weak for a scrubber. One way to use it and spend less on the scrubber-capable fan would be to do what you suggested earlier and cut an intake for the tube and use the duct booster for the tube only. You could cut another exhaust hole high up in the cab and mount another fan capable of pulling (or even pushing) through your scrubber. In this case, your light cooling system has to be leak free so it doesn't pick up and spew stink out the tube. Fans work better pulling than pushing air but a capable fan can push through a scrubber the size you need for that cab. One benefit of pushing air through the scrubber is it also acts like a sound muffler. If you mount the scrubber inside the cab, set it up to pull through the scrubber. If you want the scrubber between the wall and the cab, the easiest setup will be a push type and you'll get the muffler benefit.

Disco: "so long as it's capable of exchanging the air 2 to 3 times per minute"
How do I figure this formula? I'd say it's what 30 cubic feet in there? Max?

That was more a guess, maybe not accurate depending on your environment. I can give an example. I have roughly two thirds the space you have and my 95cfm fan runs on the slowest setting of the speed controller. That means the air exchange is reduced from ~7x down to 4 or 5. My scrubber reduces this even further. The pressure gdbub mentions is important and you'll want a fan that's strong enough to overcome the pressure and still circulate the air. That formula to calculate cfm including pressure blew my mind. Thanks for the formula, gdbud.

I'm glad to see you're already getting good input here in your thread. It might help to check out the 400w HPS club. You'll get more info on what type/size fans are being used, the ups and downs etc.

I've got a feeling you're going to see many vortex and centrifugal fans. These are probably the Rolls Royce of air flow but your cab is resin. It's an acoustic instrument. If stealth is in your equation, these industrial inlines will leave you loud and proud, lol. Maybe not so proud.

Freezerboy might be a one stop info shop on this one. He has loads of cab experience. I thinks he's using a 250 at the moment but he's been involved with 400s as well. He also has inline fan knowledge, even designing mufflers. I think he settled on S&P inline, they don't move the air like centrifugal and vortex but they're much quieter. He might be able to take one look at your setup and recommend a best case scenario from the hip. If he's able to help, shoot him some rep. He's done this stuff forever and is an encyclopedia of knowledge. Oh yeah, he's an expert DWC grower and even conquered the warm rez problem.

 

[FreezerBoy]

Sounds like Disco and Co have you covered.

While you don't need to double the intake, it's the easiest, math free solution that provides cooling, air exchange and negative pressure. Without intakes, you don't have a stealth cab, you've got an easy bake oven.

I would not plan on ONA being sufficient to the cause. Start investigating scrubbers, pre-made or DIY. Scubbers and fans need to be matched with the scubbers CFM rating exceeding the fans to keep the filter from being overpowered. Start investigating pre-mades and DIYs now because, when you realize you want one, you'll want it by yesterday.

Can someone PM so we don't bog the thread down with useless info; I have a couple forum questions and don't know where to ask such as: How do I move this thread to grow diaries? What about this file attachment limit I see when uploading pics? What does bump and reputation mean?

You're not old enough for PMs (nanner, nanner, nanner )

To move the thread, you'll need a SuperMod or better. Try Website Support. Don't do attachments so, can't help you there. "Bump" means someone posted simply to "bump" the thread back to the top of the page, to keep it in everyones sights. Reputation (green and red squares) comes from clicking the "scales" under someone's icon. You can give pos or neg along with reasons why. These show up in your Control Panel. Thumbs are a short hand version and apply to pos/neg rep at 1/4-1/5(?) the rate

 

[indigopisces]

Looking at this thing makes me so proud...

Anyways yes thank you guys for such good input.
I'm letting this become my little obsession

GD: I feel like I learned more from that post than I did a week in college. Nice!
So let me get this straight, hypothetically speaking the air around my exhaust is 90 degrees, minus intake say 60 degrees (that's what the hallway thermostat says anyways) giving me 30.
Divided by what I assume is the cubic foot of 3.16 equalling 9.493.
Multiply 9.493 by 400 watts to get 3797.4683 hmmmm
something's not right
I need more time for the concept of static pressure to really sink in...

Disco: Thank you for still considering the fans being stealth.
Sleeping next to 53db already sounds like a walk-in freezer lol
And I think I spent like, 8 hours reading the 400w club one day when I stumbled upon this amazing forum.
Look at the options I consider below as you had major influence on them...

Freezerboy: That thread on negative pressure was perfect! It clears up all of my intake to exhaust ratio questions!
I just need to calculate how big my scrubber should be since damnit I KNEW ona was too good to be true, after all nobody else is using it. Now you got me thinking all about odor again...

Which leaves me now with these odor options:
1: Could put a scrubber at the end of the cooltube and upgrade the fan. (pulling)
2: Make the intake opposite of the cooltube, then connect ducting from the intake to the cooltube and smellproof it. Then put the scrubber wherever I please inside the cab. (pulling/pushing)

Intake options:
1: On the same side as the exhaust, just lower.
2: On the back near the bottom, the back looks like this:

I just thought of something!
What if I went with odor option 2 and put a scrubber in place of the ducting? The downside is it would filter intake air as well; rendering is somewhat pointless... but would it cut the mustard??

Considerations:
Cab frame's overall stability after modification.
Could I get away with making half the intake underneath the shelf and pulling air through the clearance hole between the front of the shelf and the doors?
Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:

My calculations since last post:
Exhaust = 6" diameter = 28.27 square inches
So I need an intake at least 56.54 square inches
One of those square side areas measures 11x13" area = 143"
I think it wouldn't be too difficult to make a hole roughly 1/3 the size of one of those square side panels.
However you see that 1 1/2" recess on the square areas in the back? I'm thinking that's perfect to put a furnace filter in like gd's cab... hell maybe make two 28.27 square inch intakes on both sides either above or below the shelf...
Just my thoughts.

Other than that gentlemen overall temps are looking good!
(now that I place my thermo on the shelf to the left of the res)
right now it's 73 degrees with 43% RH.
Summer doesn't look so bad after all.
(I still wonder how they do it in places like phoenix though)

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

indigopisces, The "math free solution" of 2x overcomes static pressure in most cases. The caliber fan you need will more than maintain negative pressure.

53dB? A speed controller might be in your future, one that matches your fan type. That thing is going to grow a lot of weed. IMO, 1/2 pound before you get it tweaked. Dialed in, maybe ~10 ounces. Like the fan, you'll want to err heavy on filter instead of coming up short. You don't want any mid to late flower stink surprises and have a panic situation.

IMO, your scrubber options are somewhat limited due to the limited space above the lamp. Here's what I see possible.

Inside cab scrubber - This is the sucking/pulling option, most efficient. Hang a honkin' scrubber parallel and above the lamp. Fashion semi-rigid flex duct, (or even insulated duct) in a U shape to connect the two.

Down side: A lot of heat so close to a large black object. The scrubber will warm considerably. Another reason it might cause a problem is reflection. That tube with no reflector needs reflection from the panda on he ceiling and upper walls for best coverage. A scrubber hanging above it will block some of this reflection. A bat-wing reflector would work much better IMO. But the scrubber would still get warm being so close.

Outside Cab scrubber - This is the blowing/pushing option, not as efficient but you get a muffler too! This option w/ a speed controlled fan should help your noise considerably. You'll have to have a fan beefy enough to push through a honkin' scrubber but it can be done IMO.

IMO, this is the best option and I don't see a considerable downside unless sticking out a foot farther from the wall is a problem. Check out Kolorblind's mini-fridge. He's got an s&p inline fan and a substantial scrubber on the back of the cab. I guess you could run it from the side and save (depth) floor space but it would be more visible.

For the intake, I like the idea of cutting part of the recessed panel on the back. I don't think you'll compromise structural integrity as long as you stay well inside the recessed perimeter. You could go with a couple of 6" holes or a square/rectangle. It all depends on your light trap options.

If you decided to go with the exterior scrubber on the back, you could use 6" pvc elbows on the back for light traps. That's kind of clunky but wouldn't exceed the space necessary for the scrubber and fan.

You could also go with a darkroom louver but the size you'll need might cost $50, maybe more. I've got a few light trap ideas. Let me know if you're in need.

 

[gdbud]

So let me get this straight, hypothetically speaking the air around my exhaust is 90 degrees, minus intake say 60 degrees (that's what the hallway thermostat says anyways) giving me 30.
Divided by what I assume is the cubic foot of 3.16 equalling 9.493.
Multiply 9.493 by 400 watts to get 3797.4683 hmmmm
something's not right

The 3.16 is just a multiplier factor it has nothing to due with cubic foot. Also if your ballast is inside the cabinet use the total watts stated on the ballast. I have a 400 watt HPS and an electronic ballast in my cabinet, So I use 440 watts for the light and ballest then I throw in another 110 watts for my fans.
90 degrees exhaust temp.
60 degree room temp
550 watts
(90 - 60)/3.16 * 550 = cfm
30 / 1738 = cfm
58 cfm
SO quit banging your head against the wall

 

[indigopisces]

Hey fwends, I'm back and after thinking about my options overnight I still need more time.

Disco: I'm leaning more towards just putting an 8"x8" square intake on the side so I can have everything neat on one side like this:

And covering it with this:
http://www.amazon.com/Adorama-Darkroom-Light-Tight-Louvers/dp/B0000A5A8I/ref=pd_cp_p_2
And I found one on there with a 440cfm fan on it- heyy now
And then I found this and wanted to replace the button exhaust with it: http://www.bathroomfanexperts.com/product.php?p=soler--palau_swf-150&product=175455
What's the best way/tools of cutting this accurately while minimizing stress on the cab?
Your inside cab u-tube scrubber idea is amazing! Right now that's my number one choice; but how can I hang one of these in there?? http://www.bathroomfanexperts.com/product.php?p=soler--palau_kit-td100x&product=175459
I love kolorblinds setup, however I'm more keen to putting something on top like BG's- even if it's a honker because I can see noise being an issue down the road. And if that fan is on the outside, it's going to be loud. I need to be frugal about this too so I'm making the scrubber.
But I'm pleased to show you THIS!

It came with a reflector kit and the cooltube hangs in there perfectly at 6" from the ceiling and 5 1/2" from the back!
So 6" ducting could work! My only concern is how can I fashion the "bend" when there's only 2 1/2" of clearance from the tube to the wall shown here:

By the way there's no panda on the ceiling anyway, so the inside scrubber wouldn't even affect that.

When you said 10oz it sounded wayyy to good to be true.
If it IS indeed true that I can get a half pound out of this guy I'll listen to whatever you say to help me get there.
I had them install hooks because I thought the idea of a scrog would be fun for my first grow:

But look at the net they gave me?!?

GD: My ballast sits on the floor to the left of the cab, so should I still calculate 400 for just the bulb?

Oh and that whole 72 hour's and I'm operational deal? Yeah, about that, see what had happened was, I got into an in-depth convo with my roommate around 9pm, when just my light timer turns on. Not my exhaust. Well see when I went to my room 45 mins later I saw the cab on and rushed to plug in my exhaust fan. I opened the cab to find this:

Let this serve as an example to other amateur growers out there.
Because "Failure to provide sufficient cooling will void the warranty"
And I don't trust trying to use this still and risk glass falling onto my girls.
I don't know how long it took to crack, but I'm guessing it wasn't long as I looked up to see this and thought
"Hmm, could this be the resin warming problem I'm hearing of ???"

The doors are becoming harder to shut as well...
I JUST might tear this up before I get to use it! lol
What was weird was for those 45 mins the temp stayed at 70 degrees. Maybe I need to move my thermo from in front of the res. (you can kind of see it in the net pic.)
With all this going on I can't concern myself with such trivial things as "what does tag mean?"
Anyways I appreciate everyone's observations, and the opportunity to experience my "growing pains" with you.
Until next time,

~purina puppy ciao