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3000W SCROG inspired by the "Doc"

medicalmj

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Solid. I will pick up some gnatrol, and I am without a doubt using it on the rest of my new soil, along with nematodes. This is BS, I haven't had bugs in the 15 months I've been growing, and then BAM, one bag of soil... I think my dad uses that Bug B Gone stuff on his house plants, the bottle looks like something I've seen in his shed before. I'll pick up a bottle tomorrow, I need to attack mine once again as the mosquito dunks don't seem to be doing enough :(

Edit: How much gnatrol did you use? How many gallons of mix per gallon of soil, etc... Thanks man!

Mosquito dunks never worked for me. And no one seems to want to sell gnatrol round here. I do know Imid works like a dream, but I don't recommend in flower. I use the nematodes now as a precaution. So far so good...
 

LEDNewbie

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Mosquito dunks never worked for me. And no one seems to want to sell gnatrol round here. I do know Imid works like a dream, but I don't recommend in flower. I use the nematodes now as a precaution. So far so good...

What brand of imid you use?
 

LEDNewbie

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Solid. I will pick up some gnatrol, and I am without a doubt using it on the rest of my new soil, along with nematodes. This is BS, I haven't had bugs in the 15 months I've been growing, and then BAM, one bag of soil... I think my dad uses that Bug B Gone stuff on his house plants, the bottle looks like something I've seen in his shed before. I'll pick up a bottle tomorrow, I need to attack mine once again as the mosquito dunks don't seem to be doing enough :(

Edit: How much gnatrol did you use? How many gallons of mix per gallon of soil, etc... Thanks man!

Use the red lid bug b gone.

Use the medium dosage at least for the gnatrol. Lightest dosage doesn't do a thing. I believe medium dosage is 1 tsp per gallon. Being that I don't have drain holes in my totes I didn't want to go to heavy on the drench. I used 6 gallons for my 12 totes. Remember to mix it and let it sit for 24 hrs. Also check your ph after as mine went from 8.5 from the tap to 5.8!!!!!

Now keep something in mind. After my transplant my growth rate slowed to a crawl for over a week. Not sure if it was shock, the gnatrol, or that the first time I used it I didn't check ph and watered my plants with 5.8 water???? Something slowed my plants way down. Only in the last week r so my plants have really started growing again.
 
Well, it looks like neamtodes may be my best option. Easier to source locally than anything else...
I have some 22% stuff called Imidipro 2SC and some weak Bayer for "fruit tree & vegetables". I like the 22% stuff just be precise when measuring. Here's some of my arsenal, Imid in far right.
I have some Bayer Fruit & Tree because I had nutrient lockout and freaked out and thought it was root aphids during fall 2011. Sadly, I didn't have a single damn bug back when I could use it, they all came on with flower...
Use the red lid bug b gone.

Use the medium dosage at least for the gnatrol. Lightest dosage doesn't do a thing. I believe medium dosage is 1 tsp per gallon. Being that I don't have drain holes in my totes I didn't want to go to heavy on the drench. I used 6 gallons for my 12 totes. Remember to mix it and let it sit for 24 hrs. Also check your ph after as mine went from 8.5 from the tap to 5.8!!!!!

Now keep something in mind. After my transplant my growth rate slowed to a crawl for over a week. Not sure if it was shock, the gnatrol, or that the first time I used it I didn't check ph and watered my plants with 5.8 water???? Something slowed my plants way down. Only in the last week r so my plants have really started growing again.
I doubt it was the 5.8ph. I bet it was the bug infection. I'll make some calls in the AM, but I think eBay will have my business. I can't find any on my local stores websites, and I know the store I usually go to said they don't carry it. He did recommend it if the dunks didn't work tho.

My local Home Depot has "Ortho 10 lb. Bug-B-Gon Max Insect Killer for Lawns" but I don't think that's quite what I want. I'll compare ingredients.

Edit: I wonder if my issue is the chlorine in the city water... It kills BTi, which is what both dunks and gnatrol contain. That could explain a lot. I'll let the water sit in-bucket for a day with a pump in it, then add gnatrol (Out of dunks, seems easier to use due to dose ratios) and let mix for a day and then water...
 

LEDNewbie

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I really don't think it was a "bug infection" either that stunted my growth. I just never let the gnats get out of hand. If its not ph then I would venture to say it was the gnatrol. That is the only difference from before I transplanted. Plants were flying with growth. Transplanted and they slowed to a halt!!! I'd really like to figure it out myself for the sake of knowledge.
 

LEDNewbie

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I have some 22% stuff called Imidipro 2SC and some weak Bayer for "fruit tree & vegetables". I like the 22% stuff just be precise when measuring. Here's some of my arsenal, Imid in far right.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=41276&pictureid=976548&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

May have to get some to have in my arsenal. What dosage do you apply this product at? Do you find one usage eradicates all soil bound bugs? How long do you find one application last? Do the plants react or slow down in growth with a application? Thanks.
 

DrFever

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That's the problem when growing in organic mediums i mean mediums where we add composts, manures etc, always going to get live active bugs. Good and bad ones, I have never herd of gnats really killing a plant???? you would need a serious infestation, neglect on the growers part, for that to happen.
When you see some gnats flying around your room then you know already that a cycle has begun and them adults are on there last 2 weeks of life. so its a guarantee that larvae are in your soil .
So now we need to deal with this. There are some fancy stuff out there that does this , but lets step back for a moment, why are they here and how or what do i need to do first to get rid of them once and for all.
First off like led did get them sticky traps <-- them are going to be your monitors giving you a idea on infestation ,
secondly growers error your watering your plants way to fcking much people ??
gnats love damp areas so what do we need to do well pretty simple dry out your plants mj loves dryer areas you are more likely to kill your plant from over watering,
then larvae eating nibbling on roots.
so what you really need to do here is really dry out your plants soil Big time if you water every 5 days then wait till 8 - 10 th day trust me them larvaw will die off and gnat issue will be gone
I have missed a few plants in my time from watering and they were wilted you would of thought wtf they dead and trust me once i re watered they jumped back to life
so yes peeps
Dry your soil really out Big time. now time for first watering.
use (H2O2) solution with 4 parts water. Use 3% solution, which you can find in any drug store or in the hygiene/medicine aisle of a chain grocery store. You can use a stronger solution if you change the water mixture appropriately, and don't be too concerned with proportions; it would take a very high concentration of H2O2 to hurt your plants. Just make sure you buy pure H2O2 with no chemical additives! Hydrogen peroxide is often sold as a topical disinfectant, and things that are good for your wounds may not be so healthy for your plants.

Water your plants as you normally would, using the hydrogen peroxide solution and taking care to get good coverage of the entire top layer of soil. Use a spray bottle if desired. The soil will fizz for a few minutes after application; this is natural. The gnat larvae die on contact with the H2O2. After a few minutes the fizzing stops and the H2O2 breaks down into oxygen molecules (which your plants don't mind) and water molecules (which your plants love).
Congratulations! You've just successfully treated your fungus gnat
now monitor room for them critters and Stop over watering your plants
another great way to keeping top soil dry is use a stick make holes going into root zones use pipe or tubes , funnel and water deep inside your plants keeping top 2 " of soil dry
 

medicalmj

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May have to get some to have in my arsenal. What dosage do you apply this product at? Do you find one usage eradicates all soil bound bugs? How long do you find one application last? Do the plants react or slow down in growth with a application? Thanks.

Great questions!
I'll double check but pretty sure I used 1/2 ml/gal, so mixing at least 10-50 gallons gives a some wiggle room. I filled my res w it and ran it for a day.

With 22% Imid the rate is about 10 ml per 20 gallons. That will be sufficient to drench about 75 cubic feet of soil. I would mix 20 gallons even if I had less than 75 cubic ft. Little extra runoff won't hurt the plant. Just be careful where it goes.

I did 1 app Imid and 1 app of Pylon. I mistook ordinary soil mites for a pest mite, hence the use of Pylon. While Pylon is the pinnacle of all miticides, it is also an insecticide, albiet at $400 a pint it's better used as a miticide.

Imid is a systemic and as such label will state long protection times. But I would recommend 2 apps, 10 days apart. And some labels don't list FGs but there are many Neonicotinoid products that do. Its all about marketing.

OHP makes a product called Discus Tablets that include Imid and fertilizer that claim it will increase vigor and protect against pest for up to 2 years for container growers. So while my empirical obs. seem to indicate no adverse affects, their claim validates this obs.

Hope this helps. FGs ended up being my worst pest by spreading root rot and really hurt my yields. I've had em in the past and they did little damage, but I brought a specimen in that had rot and it took me almost a year to figure out the FGs were spreading it.
 

medicalmj

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I have never herd of gnats really killing a plant???? you would need a serious infestation, neglect on the growers part, for that to happen.
When you see some gnats flying around your room then you know already that a cycle has begun and them adults are on there last 2 weeks of life. so its a guarantee that larvae are in your soil .

Water your plants as you normally would, using the hydrogen peroxide solution and taking care to get good coverage of the entire top layer of soil. Use a spray bottle if desired. The soil will fizz for a few minutes after application; this is natural. The gnat larvae die on contact with the H2O2. After a few minutes the fizzing stops and the H2O2 breaks down into oxygen molecules (which your plants don't mind) and water molecules (which your plants love).

Hey Doc I would like to add that it doesn't take many FGs to have a serious impact. I got a clone in cup that had rot a whike back. The FGs spread it around and I was chasing phantom nute probs. After inspecting roots noticed mites and roots always turning brown. So I blamed soil mites. My atttack on the mites killed the FGs, but not the mites. But my problems are gone.

Also, I ran h2o2 for a whole summer a couple years ago and it didn't kill the FGs. I poured really concentrated solution on em and they squirmed about and that seemed to kill em tho. I do keep food grade 35% in the fridge just in case I get root rot tho. I'll treat w a drench and in 2 days re-intro the bennies.

I am off to check your latest. Did you say something about going vert???
 

medicalmj

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jesus christ.. im so happy i dont have half that shit. seems to me that ur having some serious pest problems. or have in the past.

LOL! Like to be prepared. Yeah a gallon of neem and karanja, a pint of pylon, oh and not in the pic, 2.5 gal of zerotol, and more... I know some pesti reps...
 

catalyte

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Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis works, found in many different products these days, alot of em are stronger than others... i don't have a brand that worked for me but i just got lucky with some bulk stuff i ordered...

i would also recommend any beneficial bacteria products, some of them even have BTI in it... like Tarantula... they beneficials help kill em and eat em when their dead...
 

LEDNewbie

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the routes I'm interested in trying next round that I feel would NOT effect plant growth in any way, in fact would probably help plant growth is weekly feedings and foliar sprays with this these products http://ogbiowar.com/

Plus every couple weeks at least in the beginning, adding in some beneficial nematodes.

Like I say, I had stunted plant growth for 2 weeks after using Gnatrol, coincidence, quite possibly. But plants were growing at a crazy rate prior to using that product.

Haven't used Gnatrol in over 2 weeks now and in the last 7-10 days plants are taking off in growth. Forever they were stuck at about 24 inches of height from the ground to top of canopy. Then once they started growing they got to about 27 inches in 6 days or so. Well in the past week since flipping to flower they are now 34-35 inches tall!!! And that was even after a fairly healthy defoliation wich typically slows plant growth down.

Heading into room now to spread plants apart even more as bud sites are so tightly packed together!!! Each plant is averaging around 25-35 bud sites. Smaller plants around 25, larger plants around 35. Not sure if I should do one more supercropp while they are still stretching or leave them be since bud sites are already so tightly packed together?!? Will snap some pics tomorrow during lights off for you guys...
 

LEDNewbie

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Just took some pics after lights off this morning.....

first picture was taken a couple days ago, 3-4 days after I had initially spread them out with string. The rest are from this morning. Spent about 2 hours last night undoing the knots in my string and spreading plants further apart. I dont think I can spread my plants out anymore without snapping the stems like a wishbone:laughing: Even after spreading them out bud sites are still very close together! Hope this doesn't pose a problem with bud rot down the road near the end of flower????

I gotta say, these Gavita's are CRAZY BRITE!!!!!! Even with my expensive Oakley Sun glasses on, after 2 hours in the room last night my eyes hurt and my face felt sun burned!!! Going to have to invest in some Method 7 sun glasses to see if they will help?

On with the pics
 

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DrFever

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LED Your going to pull a smoking harvest for a first time grower i hope some of the noob growers follow your lead well done there bud :)
 

whazzup

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I would start thinking about a net or something ;)

I don't know how long your specific variety will grow but generally you see that hybrids more than double in size in the generative phase. Also as you are in 12/12 you can slowly start lowering your lights. Your plants need to build!
 

LEDNewbie

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I would start thinking about a net or something ;)

I don't know how long your specific variety will grow but generally you see that hybrids more than double in size in the generative phase. Also as you are in 12/12 you can slowly start lowering your lights. Your plants need to build!

I raised lights last night to 35" as I just turned them up to 1150W.... How low can I go at 1150W?

I'm growing Purple Kush, buddy told me around 65 days to finish. We shall see.....
 

whazzup

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oh, and I would really recommend you build a white foil curtain in front of your crop, that will save you such a shitload of light you can not imagine. If you want to get close to a gram per watt for your first grow then I would only use 2x1000W on that size ;)

I just calculated a room for someone with a 3x8 NFT table in a 5x10 room. Having the (2x600W) lamps like you have he had only 650 umol average on the plants. Adding the reflection foil at the sides at the height of where the light hits the side increased that to 1000 umol! A simple strip of foil can make the difference between 0,6 gr/W and 1 gr/W!
 
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