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3000W SCROG/Fully Automated/Gavita's/Iponic 600.....Let the fun begin!!!

medicalmj

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Thanks doc. Normally you'd be right but with H&G nutes they have plenty of calcium already in there base. What they are lacking is a bit of magnesium why we use Epsom salt. If I were to use calmag plants could potentially be getting too much calcium creating other lock out issues. :tiphat:

So H&G says that ur NOT supposed to use an oxygen/air pump in the res nor should you do multiple feedings in coco because "roots need to "work" to find nutrients and water (preventing the plants from becoming "lazy")". Have you heard this before?

Personally I don't trust most of the nute companies. I decided on GH flora (3 part) cause they've been around and mainstream hortis use it. Also add calimag if in coco and I throw in a bit of PK booster and floralicious plus.
 

LEDNewbie

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So H&G says that ur NOT supposed to use an oxygen/air pump in the res nor should you do multiple feedings in coco because "roots need to "work" to find nutrients and water (preventing the plants from becoming "lazy")". Have you heard this before?

Personally I don't trust most of the nute companies. I decided on GH flora (3 part) cause they've been around and mainstream hortis use it. Also add calimag if in coco and I throw in a bit of PK booster and floralicious plus.

Hey bud. I haven't heard that before. My 2 gallon pots are completely full of roots so multiple feeds isn't a problem. Only in the beginning do you need to feed less to make roots go searching for moisture. When this grow is done I will open up my pots and take pics of the roots. It's just silly how jammed pack with roots those pots are!!!!:biggrin:
 

DrFever

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Epsom Salt is now made from a rock substance called Dolomite, which is found abundantly in, and derives its name from, a mountainous district in the South Tyrolean Alps called The Dolomites'. When examined by the chemists, this Dolomite rock is found to belong to a very large group of substances known as 'salts', in which an alkaline base is combined with an acid radical to form a neutral substance the 'salt'. It consists of two metals, calcium and magnesium, combined with two non-metallic elements, carbon and oxygen, and takes the form of a neutral double salt know as carbonate of calcium and magnesium i should note that sulfer is added so in reality epsom salt is magnesium sulfate
but anyways

Coir has some tricky features when it comes to hydroponics nutrients and absorption. Most coir contains lots of potassium, and it transfers some to your crops. Coir locks up magnesium and calcium and the only thing that defeats the lock-up is to add calcium and magnesium so your hydroponics plants can get enough of these two essential elements. why is it your so worried only about magnesium when you need both ?????

Some manufacturers pre-charge their coir with calcium and magnesium so you don’t have to. If your coir is not pre-charged, when initially soaking your compressed coir or watering pre-hydrated coir, add Cal-Mag to your water now with your coir was it pre charged ???? with Calmag ???? and if so why are you not adding both ??? and how do you know that it needs more of one nutrient or another ???? have you had it tested ????
Wouldn;t it be wise to keep a = playing field with all nutrients rather then to much of one or another

Calcium, an essential part of the plant cell wall structure, improves the absorption of other nutrients by the roots and their translocation within the plant. It activates a number of plant growth-regulating enzyme systems, helps convert nitrate-nitrogen into forms needed for protein formation, and contributes to improved disease resistance.

Calcium is an intracellular messenger as well and can send a signal from one cell to another telling other cells how to react or what to do.? It also provides for the transport and retention of other many other elements.? Calcium,?Magnesium,?and Potassium live in a delicate balance within plants.? Too much of one will inhibit the other two. Finally,?Calcium is a cofactor in many enzymatic reactions. Its presence is needed to turn an enzyme on or off and allow it to catalyze a reaction.

Magnesium is part of the chlorophyll in all plants. Magnesium is the central core of the chlorophyll molecule in green plant tissue and essential for photosynthesis. Thus, if Magnesium is deficient, the shortage of chlorophyll results in poor and stunted plant growth.

Magnesium also helps to activate specific enzyme systems. Enzymes are complex substances that build, modify, or break down compounds as part of a plants normal metabolism.

Most growers incorporate higher levels of cal-mag (around 50 to 200ppm) during the first two weeks of bloom. This is when the plant takes up a higher concentration of calcium and magnesium to help facilitate the rapid division of cells changing the plant from a vegetative process to a reproductive process. Also, during main flower set, four to six weeks into the flowering process, additional cal-mag is required.
 
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LEDNewbie

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Fuck the Epsom salt Doc!!! Hahahaha. I got molds or something to worry about!!!! I'll take some pics of the two effected area this afternoon. Both are fairly small for now and very low on the main stalk. About an inch above the coco. Any idea how to treat this?? Can it spread to other plants?
 
J

Javadog

If you only provide the stems with fresh and dry air (think: fan) then any mold is likely to at least stall.

I wonder whether H2O2 would harm the stems if used to wash the growth off. I do know
that H2O2 is mycelium-acid. It will melt the mold away.

Then fresh air is your best defense.

While I am a Trusted Cultivator of fungi, we do not typically study the fungi that attack
*living* plants. If a living plant was infected with an invading parasitic fungi, then it is
likely that some very nasty systemic fix might be required.

Good luck,

JD
 

LEDNewbie

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Ya I'm wondering if I wipe the affected area with h202 and then spray with the og biowar tea which has beneficial fungi and bacteria? Wonder if that would do the trick?
 
J

Javadog

Well, I have not done this, but I bet that the H2O2 will leave nothing on the surface...

...and often the best defense against a blight is the inoculation of the area with a beneficial,
and even just not-as-nasty, fungi. Paul Stamets discusses using one of the Hypholomas,
IIRC, to protect forest from the attack of the Armillaria, the honey mushroom. He even
admits that perhaps the Hypholoma is a facultative parasite, but not the destroyer that
the Honey mushroom is.

Good luck,

JD
 

DrFever

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i am thinking more in the lines of misting half vinegar and half water mixture on top of coco and stalk
 

LEDNewbie

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Will vinegar kill the fungi Doc? Should I try cleaning the fungi first with h202 and then spraying with vinegar?
 

DrFever

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I would spray fungi with mixture of half and half vinegar and water on fungi soak it up as to make sure no spores get thrown in the air then i would with a damp paper towel wipe it then re spray infected area once you cleaned it up fungi hates acidity and vinegar has a ton of it
 

LEDNewbie

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Thanks Doc. I will go now and give that a try. Is this something I should spray once a week now?

How do you think I got this? Should I add a fan to blow air under the canopy?
 

DrFever

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well hate to say it but having a constant wet area high humidity and hot is grounds for fungus
 

LEDNewbie

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Ya that's what I was thinking. I've been keeping my humidity between 70-75%. Plus not having the time to clean up undergrowth till now probably didn't help any.

I'm thinking I'm going to have to buy a second dehumidifier to get humidity down below 70% during lights off!!! As it sits right now the best mine is doing right now is 71%.
 

Tyga

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Your room is basically top notch man... Can tell you put a lot of time and effort into it. If its there to stay for a while purchase a commercial grade dehumidifier and never look back.... Sante Fe, Dri-eaz, and others... Solid units. Can probably find a used one on craigslist for the same price you would drop on one from Home depot,lowes,etc.
 

LEDNewbie

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Ok, here are some pics. I did go ahead and mist affected areas with 50/50 water/vinegar and then wipe areas as best as I could with a damp paper towel with the vinegar spray, then resprayed areas and let it be....

Black spot before

after


White mold, hard to tell from pics but looks like mold you would find on old fruit

before


after
 

LEDNewbie

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Thanks Jack, do you think spraying those areas with full concentrated OG Biowar tea would help cure the problem?
 

DrFever

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hey led when your on water cycle is the water hitting the stem ???? looiks to me its a direct hit lol get a 45 and point it down
 
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