or t-5 if you're lame/cheap
ArcticBlast
ArcticBlast
280z ----> V8
- Thread starter TexasToker
- Start date
beejium
Member
are both speedo cables the same length and stile? never mind the joints/spline that was referring to old d-shaft, but seeing how it would be replaced... if this was built for drag i might think about the th350-400 or m20, but for street the t-56 or nv4500 seems to be a good match some tunnel/firewall work might be needed. gonna have to keep a log of the new part numbers and availability, although i'm sure you know that. i don't know the exacts, but a ford 8.8 might fit if the 280 uses a solid rear. i do know for a fact that the 8.8 i yanked out of an explorer 3.73 lsd w/disks has taken one hell of a beating so far. i wish i had a pic of the old stock rear that pretty much exploded on a 2 sec burn out.
i guess i wanted to make sure that you knew what you were getting into, because i had no clue when i started with the dime.
beejium
Member
i killed a t-5 with a gm 2.8 v6 i wouldn't put this on anything more than 90hp. was the t-5 they put in the mustangs any stronger? this is just out of curiosity, cause i got one in the garage that i can't pay to get rid of.
you could get one of those TKO 5 or 6 speeds, those are badass.
what are you going to do for a rear end?
ArcticBlast
what are you going to do for a rear end?
ArcticBlast
I'd go all ford on it's ass..... 351? Hell throw a 302 in there.... so many parts, so many options.
yeah if you want to go cheap/widely available, go with a 302. if you want decent, reliable, somewhat cheap "bang for the buck", chevy all the way. if you want to turn heads/are a tuner/ricer, go with the toyota/nissan. if you hate money and just like throwing it away, go with the mazda rotary mentioned above lol 
or, you could restore it back to factory-new, and make a killing in resale
ArcticBlast
or, you could restore it back to factory-new, and make a killing in resale
ArcticBlast
what wrong with a rebuild every 10k?
Only heavily ported or peripheral ported engines need to be pulled down on a regular basis or yearly. Or cheep ecu, badly tuned why i mentioned N/a 20b cheep low k blocks, they mate with most strong autos..
my first rotarys did good KMs
12a n/a with 275 000km
13b 200 oookm
1st 13bt 260 oookm
then i got into ported motors
1st expend port 13bt stock hiflo turbo 75 000km, wet roads over reved poped a seal.
2nd 13bt same setup but bigger fuel system only went 6oookm premature detonation just after run in on the dyno. Fault was hard to find had a bad wire to fuel pump and pump was loud and ran hot odd for a bosch o44 there normaly bloody good
3rd 13bt being installed as we speak. under 30oookm warranty which i was lucky toget, as i wired the pump but 6000km is shocking just after a 4grand rebuild.
ruined the whole block or both rotor housings and needs a fresh seal kit might cost th mechanic more than the 4g rebuild.. oops
so not for everyone.
Next toy car will be a lighter car around a 1000kg datto or early rex7 with a 20b mounted as low as far back as can be done, if the dollars roll in same motor in a new mx5 /miata chassis proven good combo for street/track not much into stop, spin the wheels, go hard, stop.
have a looksie, i know your mind is made up but we can dream.
20b @6psi
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdrpwrN9daM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RomCIKez7Lw
Only heavily ported or peripheral ported engines need to be pulled down on a regular basis or yearly. Or cheep ecu, badly tuned why i mentioned N/a 20b cheep low k blocks, they mate with most strong autos..
my first rotarys did good KMs
12a n/a with 275 000km
13b 200 oookm
1st 13bt 260 oookm
then i got into ported motors
1st expend port 13bt stock hiflo turbo 75 000km, wet roads over reved poped a seal.
2nd 13bt same setup but bigger fuel system only went 6oookm premature detonation just after run in on the dyno. Fault was hard to find had a bad wire to fuel pump and pump was loud and ran hot odd for a bosch o44 there normaly bloody good
3rd 13bt being installed as we speak. under 30oookm warranty which i was lucky toget, as i wired the pump but 6000km is shocking just after a 4grand rebuild.
ruined the whole block or both rotor housings and needs a fresh seal kit might cost th mechanic more than the 4g rebuild.. oops
so not for everyone.
Next toy car will be a lighter car around a 1000kg datto or early rex7 with a 20b mounted as low as far back as can be done, if the dollars roll in same motor in a new mx5 /miata chassis proven good combo for street/track not much into stop, spin the wheels, go hard, stop.
have a looksie, i know your mind is made up but we can dream.
20b @6psi
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdrpwrN9daM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RomCIKez7Lw
yeah they're fun to play with, but they're extremely inefficient, expensive, and unreliable!
but i'd love to play around with one, just because it's different. a buddy and i tore apart one of those 12a's, that was fun...its crazy how few parts are in them
but yeah LSx!
ArcticBlast
but i'd love to play around with one, just because it's different. a buddy and i tore apart one of those 12a's, that was fun...its crazy how few parts are in them
but yeah LSx!
ArcticBlast
I recently saw a 260Z with a cast block GM 350 under the hood, I imagine
it handled like a friggin' pig but would get there first no matter what.......
