125A Main Breaker wire hot.
- Thread starter szachtb2
- Start date
Yeah because if there is no load on the circuit, it wont electrocute you. Oh wait, YOU become the load.
To be clear, if its live, its dangerous
And if its wiggling and sparking, its a problem
buddy is bring over an allen. should know if its loose here soon. My thoughts are that its gonna be the breaker cause it only has issue on one leg and appears to be tight. It dont appear that the breaker is cheap but cheaper than a new house. the Home depot and lowes only had 100 amps so gotta find an electrical supply house.
From what I am reading, it sounds as though the lug is loose on the breaker itself. Some lugs bolt on from the front - the allen holding the wire in compression is removed, the wire taken out, and this gives access to the bolt that actually holds the lug in place. Other styles bolt on from the back, so the entire breaker needs to be removed from the panel and the lug tightened down.
As an aside, I have seen failed connections from the wire being overtightened, but this was in an industrial setting with very high inertia, hard-starting applications. There are torque ratings for both the lug connection to the breaker and for the clamping action on the wire, and it is a very good idea to use them.
*edit* By the way, I didn't see any mention of using an anti-oxidation compound on the aluminum wire. There should be Pertrox, Aluminox, or the equivalent used to keep the connection from oxidizing and building resistance.
As an aside, I have seen failed connections from the wire being overtightened, but this was in an industrial setting with very high inertia, hard-starting applications. There are torque ratings for both the lug connection to the breaker and for the clamping action on the wire, and it is a very good idea to use them.
*edit* By the way, I didn't see any mention of using an anti-oxidation compound on the aluminum wire. There should be Pertrox, Aluminox, or the equivalent used to keep the connection from oxidizing and building resistance.
Rives, I used anti ox compound on all aluminum connections, believe it was pertrox. I tightened main lug last night, lug tightened at least 90 degrees so id say it was loose. the lug to breaker still seems to have more play than the other lug but there is no heat on line now, but its cooler outside and raining so no a/c on main a/c unit. I have never grabbed that line and it was that cool so I am happy, gonna keep an eye on it under heavier load situations.
mrpotatohead
Member
Damn this scares the shit out of me...
I did a bunch of research before attempting anything. ive been an automotive technician for 8 years so i fell confident in most projects with proper research. from what I read if there was an over load issue it would have tripped the breaker before it burned the house down? Am i correct there or what? I hope i was not risking it more than i should have.
beanja
Member
You are correct, i am a licenseced electrician and have been for sometime. Just borrow an ammeter and put on proper amperage range and put ammeter on wire , the jaws of the ammeter go right around the insulated wire , no chance of getting shock and see what you are drawing on each phase on max load( everything turned on).
You can put an ammeter around any wire coming off a breaker or fuse to see the load on that circuit.r
You can put an ammeter around any wire coming off a breaker or fuse to see the load on that circuit.r
You can tighten each phase but, just remember when you are tightening that you are basically the same potential as the hot leg and not to touch anything else or have your off hand touching the box or anything grounded, put your of hand in your back pocket and you should do alright. The other option is to pull the meter socket outside and this will essentially kill the power, once tightened put meter back on, the power company will want to know why you pulled the meter so option one would be less conspicuous but more dangerous.
Cause all meter boxes have a metal tag from energy company sealing them and when they come to check the meter they ask questions about y tag is missing and than want to fine you for tampering with the box. I dont want to call an electrician as I dont want anyone random in my house at this point, and is the only way to avoid showing permits and such. hope to have an ammeter tomorrow to figure out total draw.
MPL
Member
There isn't a way to disconnect power between the meter and your main panel? Is this normal?
If it is normal, is it illegal or something to add? I'm just curious because it seems very illogical not to have a way to completely cut power to a building or house without requiring the power company or an electrician to do it.
If it is normal, is it illegal or something to add? I'm just curious because it seems very illogical not to have a way to completely cut power to a building or house without requiring the power company or an electrician to do it.
supersmallgiant
Member
the thing that had me worried was the fact that this house was built in 97. the electrical main was getting hot due to a loose wire, how long had it been an issue, how long would it have continued to be a problem if i did not verify my work multiple times. I would have never looked at panel if i did not add sub panel, and could have been a future problem.
MPL
Member
MPL
Member
