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1200w in 4x4 tent?

Bennyweed1

Active member
Veteran
Here is a 1200w tent.....these plants are looking so promising...which makes me really happy


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And the temps are just kicking ass here at night. Having a 750cfm intake fan is what really makes this possible. I dont think just a 750cfm exhaust could have enough cooling capacity with only a passive intake
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Bennyweed1

Active member
Veteran
Here are some LED plants I ran without doing an pH adjusting....I dont know....just to see what would happen.

Not horrible but you can for sure see leafs curling and dying.

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and I funny story.....so I dont put a lot of work into these plants....and for the longest time...their lights off schedule was done when I was never around and still is...so for about two weeks I figured out, the timer was broke, and the lights were staying on 24/7, which happening about 25 days into bloom.

I never caught it because I was always around when the regular lights on schedule was on. I discovered it when I was making some adjustments. So for 2 weeks straight these plants we under 24/7 aftter the 3rd-ish week of bloom.

I flipped'em back to 12/12 with a net timer, and so far nothing crazy. NO hermies...but the bud mass was really effected.

Pretty cool/weird/unexpected/kinda sciencecy
 

Bennyweed1

Active member
Veteran
The veg area

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two 3 year old mother plants with the areo cloner and four new moms in soil colo cups

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Apache Kush

Member
Sick advice guys!

Thanks for the knowledge on 400 watt and tents...

Seems like its not a huge problem without the hoods
 

Relentless

Active member
Veteran
gotta get the heat out of there.. thats the #1 thing.. and not just out of the tent, out of the room.. if ur tent is just pulling in hot air passively thats not going to cut it..

btw i run up to 1600w in a 4x4 area. ive known guys that run a 1000w in a 2x4..
i run a 6" fan attached to the coolhoods.
 

Bennyweed1

Active member
Veteran
gotta get the heat out of there.. thats the #1 thing.. and not just out of the tent, out of the room.. if ur tent is just pulling in hot air passively thats not going to cut it..

btw i run up to 1600w in a 4x4 area. ive known guys that run a 1000w in a 2x4..
i run a 6" fan attached to the coolhoods.

true that and your completely right. The heat must go somewhere, it just doesnt disappear. If your pulling it out of a tent and into a room, that room needs a way to push or pull the heat somewhere to vent it.
 

Apache Kush

Member
reading this thread, ad seeing other grows that get warm with hoods.. it seems like the dialed in set ups

are more about venitaltion .. being greater than > how much watts/heat

hope ur right ill try and go Vert, ditch the massive old hood in the 400w,
with x1 fan below to cool upwards etc.
maybe one fan more... idk

..be subbing this thread fo show
 

LSWM

Active member
reading this thread, ad seeing other grows that get warm with hoods.. it seems like dialed in set ups

are more about venitaltion .. being greater than > how much watts/heat

hope ur right ill try and go Vert, ditch the massive old hood in the 400w,
with x1 fan below to cool upwards etc.
maybe one fan more... idk

..be subbing this thread fo show

It can be done with hoods as mentioned above, but here in the vert forums we are a bit biases. Not to mention it'll save you a few bucks not buying a hood, and hundreds more never buying one again!
 

Bennyweed1

Active member
Veteran
reading this thread, ad seeing other grows that get warm with hoods.. it seems like the dialed in set ups

are more about venitaltion .. being greater than > how much watts/heat

hope ur right ill try and go Vert, ditch the massive old hood in the 400w,
with x1 fan below to cool upwards etc.
maybe one fan more... idk

..be subbing this thread fo show

Apache, you still need some sort of exhaust fan. One fan blowing across the bulb wont do anything if there is not a top mounted exhaust fan pulling the hot air out of the tent and hopefully venting to a window or similar.

If I were you and it sounds like your trying to save cash, I would order two 6" inline duct boosters online. You can buy two of those for less then $50 combined and each provides about 185cfm. Use one for an intake and exhaust and you will have zero issues with heat using a 400w bulb.

Like I posted before in my picture, I use one 6" inline duct booster exhaust fan in my 3x3 tent with a 400w bulb. Temps peak at 85f sometimes and thats only because I have a passive intake using such a small exhaust fan.
 

komboloi

Member
Tents sure do complicate things. Everybody seems to want one, and I sort of get it. But then I look at my more simple set up of plants in a spare room and think how fortunate I am not to need one.
 

Bennyweed1

Active member
Veteran
Tents sure do complicate things. Everybody seems to want one, and I sort of get it. But then I look at my more simple set up of plants in a spare room and think how fortunate I am not to need one.

true that man. I wish I could use a spare room but it really isnt possible for me in order to maintain a stealthiness...if that makes any sense.

I an actually preparing to move locations and am currently drafting ideas for a completely contained, movable grow room.

I decided on a trailer that can be parked in a garage or warehouse with an overhead door. If anyone every needs to come in I simply back my truck up to it and temporally park it somewhere else.

I would install two 12v Optima blue top batteries wired in a series circuit hooked up to a DC/AC converter which will solely be used to run water pumps and carbon filter fan for up too 5 hours.

Here is the trailer I am going to buy when that time comes:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-6x12-En.../161318625998?pt=Trailers&hash=item258f56e2ce

and here is my idea for the inside layout. I would construct a wall dead center to divide the trailer into two 6x6 sections. It is a V nose trailer that is actually 13'.6" long. I would hang the co2 gen and reserv in the nose.

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I would wire a 40amp 240v breaker in the trailer for the 4 -600w HPS and 2 - 20amp 120v breakers for everything else. The exterior will have to receptacles like you would seen on an RV for shore power so it can be easily connected and disconnected for moving.

Any pointers or improvement much appreciated! Total cost will be around $4,500 or less.
 

Bennyweed1

Active member
Veteran
I did the first drain and flush since flipping to 12/12. It looks like the plants were wanting to some, so I increased the ppm to 510/.5 scale.

1:1 ratio of micro and bloom, looks like they need some more N, 2.5 tblsp of beastie blooms, and 1 tblsp cal/mag.

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Bennyweed1

Active member
Veteran
the girls are @ wk 4.5 of 9 total


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I had to tuck a lot back behind the screens, they were way to close the the bulbs. I hope I dont burn'em!
 

komboloi

Member
I hope I dont burn'em!

At least not until after harvest, right?:biggrin:

Very nice, Benny. Very nice. Agree with you about the hunger for N. With 4.5 weeks to go, those flowers still need healthy leaves to keep converting that good light energy into yummy, fat, and sticky.
 

Bennyweed1

Active member
Veteran
I think the lights are to close?

The yellowing problem has not improved since increasing nutrient profile during last drain/flush.

Leafs are starting to look crispy I suppose but the temps rarely exceed 80 degrees F. I'm thinking the the radiant heat/ultra violet might be roasting my hoes a lil bit.

Silly bitches....:..


Help.
 

LSWM

Active member
Keep pulling them back! You could set up a 1 or 2 hour flip flop with 2 timers until things cooled down..?
 
O

Oti$

Check out Otis' vertical experiment thread in the vert section... I ran a 1k above 600 with a 6in fan exchanging more than twice a minute and temps stayed a few degrees over theambient outside temps
 
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