10L measuring jug

[Ca++]

BM have transparent buckets in again. Daft floral pattern on them, but close enough. Just jug in a liter, and draw a line. Jug in another, and draw the 2L line. Repeat.

I do like having graduated buckets you can see though. Okay so light proof has some other advantages, but clear wins it for me. It makes repetitive mixing so easy, it's almost automated.

Working with such ideals, a teat pipette (or 100) is very cheap. Water down your acid so you need a couple of ml, then you really can'y miss

 

[Creeperpark]

How much water and acid do you mix before using? I'm ole school and don't know what BM means.

Important Note. Never, never, never, put water directly in a bottle of acid. Some acids will explode when you do. Always mix acid with water and never the other way around.

 

[Ca++]

BM is a UK bargain store. Clear buckets are a bit rare here. Sold for crabbing is some areas, but that's about it.

With a few years under my belt, I know 6L of my tap needs about 0.6ml of the fuming acid I have diluted to 30%. You simply must dilute fuming acid, the stuff smokes like a fog machine. It's a controlled substance here. The shop sells it about 17.5% now, like h2o2. Both have uses in bomb making, so we just can't get them at good concentrations anymore.

6L sits nice in a flip top bin insert, I use as a clear bucket. It's a nice volume for cuttings or getting them established. Where a jugs not really big enough, but you want that ease of mixing.

Less experienced growers spend a lot of time putting in too much acid, then using up, or more water. Which means more feed again. If we half the strength of out acid, we need twice as much, which means we add too much, half as often.
Mixing 1L in a 2L jug might not be possible, when drips of 70% P are about 0.1ml, and can shift a liter from 6.2 down to 5.0 So in these cases, halving the acids strength is very useful.

I know. You get a second jug of about 50ml, and put your drip in that. Then use this second jug to adjust the first where your feed is. However, if you know you wanted half a drip, then half your acid is going down the drain.

Perhaps you have a different take on this?

 

[Creeperpark]

Concentrated nitric acid containing dissolved nitrogen oxides would be best suited for the vegetation stage. Nitric acid is very strong and is used to manufacture mercury fulminate in blasting caps, detonators and other high explosives. It's extremely dangerous and should be handled with the greatest care.

Whereas phosphoric acid is a phosphorus oxoacid that consists of one oxo and three hydroxy groups joined covalently to a central phosphorus atom. Best suited for flowering because its hydroxy content holds the pH longer. Either way, using any kind of acid should be a last resort because of the byproduct left in the soil.

Using pure water will allow one to drop the acid and use nutrients only for the best pH.