1000w yield down
- Thread starter deadhead77
- Start date
deadhead77
Member
Yeah I knew that sounded wrong but I either read their posts wrong or they didn't understand I use air cooled hoods. I don't have any pictures as I finished my run already
deadhead77
Member
Light intensity is only 25% of the equation ..also have clones lost their vigor or new strains...lots of factors we need vivid details.
Hey, ok. My cuttings are from a mother that grew from seed. I did have water issues very early on I noticed my plants locking out and I checked their run off with an ec meter, the run off was like 3000ppm. The plants were only vegging for 2 weeks at this point. I only fed water;the medium was sunshine which I'll not use again I usually use promix but switched to sunshine to check it out. I realized it wasn't just my water as I got a small boy water filter to dechlorinate. I flushed just the sunshine fresh out of the bag and it was 1200 ppm. That may have hurt this run along with pest issues early in flower but the last 3 runs I equaled out getting the same percentage per plant
deadhead77
Member
My last post may have made it seem like I thought my small boy would stop lock out or drop my ppm, I know that it won't, I also used RO water to see if that would help
deadhead77
Member
Ah well anyways I got some answers on bulb recommendations here but I just want to make sure that I am correct in letting my plants get as close to the glass as they can for intensity purposes as long as the temp is ok, and that will get me my best yield for the situation. Not 16-18 inches away for better yield. I'm not worried about my quality that is always above par just the yield, I have friends pulling a pound plus per 1k although their set up is different. Same genetics
deadhead77
Member
Yes I understand that, thank you
I think somebody already suggested move the light further away to get a better spread. Get off this idea that the light must be as close as possible. Experiment and find the sweet spot!
Cheap Chinese magnetic ballasts are horrible not sure what your running but I just dealt with a continually dropping yield over a year of grows. Bought a light meter and compared them to a electronic ballast 2/3 the light output. Changed capacitors no difference. The cheap metal they use breaks down over a couple years. I have a older advance ballast made in the USA still outputs almost as much as the electronic ballast.
deadhead77
Member
Ok, I am trying to follow what you are saying, I'm just not sure you have already read I'm using air cooled hoods. I've been through this yesterday. Please read through the posts before commenting or your wasting mine and your time
jumpincactus
Member
I change out my capacitors every 2-3 seasons.
jumpincactus
Member
Would agree that is way too close for a 1000w. Dude is heat stressing his plants being that close. Your room may show ambient temps as acceptable however due to the IR and radiant heat hitting the canopy would reduce yields. Also the OP hasnt mentioned if the strains are changing during this time. Not all strains produce the same weights. They vary on genetics and grow style.
Back those lights off.
deadhead77
Member
Yeah I am using one magnetic, I tested it a year ago and had to switch the capacitator out but I average the same yield with digital
deadhead77
Member
I think I'm good guys the latest posts have been misinformed responses to my setup and have become redundant but thank you
Section 7 of this has too much light pictures. You can have too much light without heat problems.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
Loc dog that is one great thread I never seen it before. Thanx brah!
MW is a pretty knowledgeable and respected member of this community. Maybe you should apologize for wasting his time before accusing him of wasting yours.
My comment came from experience using an 8" A/C flat glass reflector with both 600 and 1000w lights, and a desire to get you the answer you needed, quickly.
There's not that much to follow. Radiant heat is not the same as ambient temperature. The plants feel both.
The 'hand under reflector' comment was spot on. Even with 800+ cfm pulling through 1- 8" hood, I still have radiant heat that's a little too warm for my ladies at less than 12".
In saying that, I'm done with this thread. All the best OP
Then let me explain further. I know you already discussed it but I don't think you have grasped the concept. Every light 400, 600, 1000W has an ideal distance from the canopy where the spread/reach of the light will be in harmony with the light intensity. You raise the light out of this sweet spot and you will sacrifice intensity for reach. You lower the light below the sweet spot and you gain intensity but then you are lighting a smaller area and the plants on the periphery are not getting the intensity they require!
Enter the endless array of commercially available reflectors and hoods. Each combination of reflector and lamp needs to be tested to find the optimum distance.
It's about footprint, providing adequate lumens (intensity) as evenly as possible over that footprint Not placing the light as close as possible!
I get the impression you are buying into the manufactures claims that 'cool tubes' are hands down the best because they can be placed so close to plants! Beware of manufacturers and hydro store guys. They often single mindedly push a point way beyond it's actual benefit, even though there may be an element of truth to what they are saying!
deadhead77
Member
Please don't tell me to apologize to a person just because you respect them. I don't know this person I am sure they are a fine member but how am I supposed to blindly give respect to a person I don't know in the manor in which is approved by you, should I check with you for your approval first before I comment? . I am thankful of his comments and everybodies but don't tell me what to do that sounds a bit controlling. You have nothing to do with my grow so either stay off my thread or give useful information
