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10 hour light cycle

Scrogerman

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'Thanks for sharing'

'Thanks for sharing'

Quote:by Mistress'
yes, if flower entire cycle on 8/16, >total light rec'd.
key is to change light regimes @ different stages of maturity.

from 24/0 to 20/4 to 16/12 to 12/12 to 12/16 to 8/16... ~~~...

ideally, each specific cultivar should have its own compartment to test its photoperiod. starting @ 24/0 & moving down by 15 min per day, until length of dark that steadily produces fruit is reached.
this requires effort...
why only 8/16? during final wk or so?
may plant has plenty of energy stored... plant makes & stores energy by way of photosynthesis. during final ripening, dont want plant to be making storing sugar, but distributing sugars to fruit. this generally occurs during dark cycle... temps affect rate of metabolism (cell activity). so slightly higher night temps will permit stored energy (that has accumulated during season, also known as 'salt build-up') to be given to flowers...

not desiring 'growth' during ripening of fruit. growth occurs during 24/0 veg cycle, to get trees ready for heavy tomatoes



Hey Mistress,

Yeah 18/6 light cycle will help the bud mature a little quicker toward the end 'ie' the last week during flush, by then the plant has put on most-all of its weight anyway so i cant see you losing much if any in yield, but it does cause me to get airy/lose buds. I have found a better faster and fuller fruiting response switching light cycles from 24/0 or 20/4 to 12/12, rather than a gradual shift. It seems like the shock of an instant long dark period produces a more speedy & robust Bloom response(speaking from experience). The term 'Salt-Build up'-I Thought' is used to describe an excess of salts (nutrients) that may have built up on a medium over a period of time, due to not flushing your medium. Rockwool for instance will accumilate a layer of salt on its surface if not flushed regulaly. This layer of salt will also accumilate anywhere around the resevoir, pipe's & outlets etc 'oh yeah & kettles. Ive never heard of the plants stored energy reserves/Excess referred to as 'salt build-up' before but i suppose it could be referrered to as a salt build up.
I always keep a heater on the other side of my intake vents which has a thermostat & is kept running at a constant 74f, temps do fluctuate slightly, but it never drops below 70f lights-off', this helps regulate and increase the metabolic rate of the plants.(my temps are mostly at a constant 74f lights on & off)
I am very interested in the studies where the dark photoperiod is kept at a constant 12 hours and the light 'PP' is increased ie- starting at 14/12, 16/12, or 18/12 now this is where it gets interesting. Have you any links to any studies Mistress?? Someone also pointed out that they increase the lumen intensity while decreasing the amount of Light hours the plants recieve ie- 14/10, 16/8, they just double the light output from 1000w - 2000w. I think this would compensate for the lack of light hours! and they report no loss in yield using this tec-i would go this way!.
Thanks for the sharing 'Mistress'!!

Be-Lucky..............Scroger! :eggnog:
 

*mistress*

Member
Veteran
Hey Mistress,

Yeah 18/6 light cycle will help the bud mature a little quicker toward the end 'ie' the last week during flush, by then the plant has put on most-all of its weight anyway so i cant see you losing much if any in yield, but it does cause me to get airy/lose buds.
?
18/6 help plant mature quicker? do you mean 8/16?

have not found that >light influences fruit density; but rather, type of light. mh increasing density - @ any regime.
I
have found a better faster and fuller fruiting response switching light cycles from 24/0 or 20/4 to 12/12, rather than a gradual shift. It seems like the shock of an instant long dark period produces a more speedy & robust Bloom response(speaking from experience).
was posting about finding exact amount of darkness that triggers reproductive process for ea individual plant.

one way to do this is to gradually reduce light by 15-30 mins a day until they steadily produce pistils from ovaries...
if going from 24/0 to, say 14/10, in 30 min/day increments, takes

30 mins * 20 days=10 hours.

so, if the plant has an ~10 hour triggering point, will have vegged under no less than 14hrs/day for @ least 20 days.

this is, of course, if gardener is running same cultivar & actually running tests to find out all about these plants. what breeders should do, & what hobby gardeners could do to better know their strains...
The term 'Salt-Build up'-I Thought' is used to describe an excess of salts (nutrients) that may have built up on a medium over a period of time, due to not flushing your medium. Rockwool for instance will accumilate a layer of salt on its surface if not flushed regulaly. This layer of salt will also accumilate anywhere around the resevoir, pipe's & outlets etc 'oh yeah & kettles. Ive never heard of the plants stored energy reserves/Excess referred to as 'salt build-up' before but i suppose it could be referrered to as a salt build up.
most hobby gardeners feed using high quality nutrients. these nutrients are designed tobe assimilated thru the roots & be used in the photosynthesis process (light reactions). this process, loosely, requires ~20 photons of photosynthetically active radiation to make & store 1 molecule of sugar...

these sugars are stored for eventual use in the reproductive process. since these plants are annuals. they are genetically designed to use all of their stored sugars (carbs) to either make pollen, or catch pollen & make seeds... want virgins that make big un-pollenated fruit.

the high quality nutrients need to be catalyzed & converted into actual plant matter, or there is no used feeding them 1.0 ec/2000 ppm, etc, etc...

generally, >light & higher temps are environmental trigger to make plant translocate sugars to fruit from leaves. npk ratios, etc also affect this - but dark reaction is much more influential. along w/ >c02... etc, etc...

so, 'salt build up' is sugars (converted nutes (dissolved salts)) stored in leaves. catalyze this out of leaves into fruit via several triggers, 1 being photoperiod...
I always keep a heater on the other side of my intake vents which has a thermostat & is kept running at a constant 74f, temps do fluctuate slightly, but it never drops below 70f lights-off', this helps regulate and increase the metabolic rate of the plants.(my temps are mostly at a constant 74f lights on & off)
:yes:
I am very interested in the studies where the dark photoperiod is kept at a constant 12 hours and the light 'PP' is increased ie- starting at 14/12, 16/12, or 18/12 now this is where it gets interesting. Have you any links to any studies Mistress?? Someone also pointed out that they increase the lumen intensity while decreasing the amount of Light hours the plants recieve ie- 14/10, 16/8, they just double the light output from 1000w - 2000w. I think this would compensate for the lack of light hours! and they report no loss in yield using this tec-i would go this way!.
Thanks for the sharing 'Mistress'!!

Be-Lucky..............Scroger! :eggnog:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=2905018&postcount=27

link to another link where alternative light schedules ran...

enjoy your garden!
 

SOTF420

Humble Human, Freedom Fighter, Cannabis Lover, Bre
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12/12 for 5 weeks and feed the shit out of them max nutes they will take without burning, then 10/14 for next week half strength nutes, then 8/16 last week (7 weeks total) most 9 week strains will be done nicely with about a 15% overall decrease in yield but top quality and density. Flush for last week light cycle with ro water with some carbs in it, FROSTY SWELL. :joint:

Also, this really only works well in set-ups with ample light like a nice bright hps/mh. Little cfl grows and 90 w led grows it just won't work the same since things are going to take longer anyways than under hid so add a week easy, maybe more.
 
yes, done all the time...

flower @ 11:30/12:30, too... watch the hairs increase...

16/12 cycle
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=108613

enjoy your garden!

So, I checked out that thread and there's some compelling points there. Hate to sound ignorant but how would one aquire / make a timer that would do 16/12? What if you are always adding new plants to the flower area? Thanks!

Edit: saw in that thread where you'd do it manually but said something about a digital timer - is there one that can be set to 16/12? Anyone else have any ideas?
 
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