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dongle69
Quality coco is key.
Not all are created equal.
10 Commandments for Growing in Coco
- Thread starter indicapimp
- Start date
Quality coco is key.
Not all are created equal.
It would appear that the air capacity of coco depends on the grade/manufacturer, for example:
Grade Analysis of coco peat
CPRM8/3P - 4cu,ft coco peat / cocopeat bales
Air fill porosity (%) 12.8
Water holding capacity (%) 67.2
Electric conductivity <= 0.6 Ms/cm (1:10 Weight basic)
Ph 5.8 - 6.4
CPRM10/3-6 P - 4cu,ft coco peat / cocopeat bales
Air fill porosity (%) 36.4
Water holding capacity (%) 53.1
Electric conductivity <= 0.6 Ms/cm (1:10 weight basic)
Ph 5.8 - 6.4
CPRM10 coco peat / cocopeat Standed Grade
Air fill porosity (%) 20.6
Water holding capacity (%) 58.4
Electric conductivity <= 0.6 Ms/cm (1:10 Weight basic)
Ph 5.8 - 6.4.
Grade Analysis of coco peat
CPRM8/3P - 4cu,ft coco peat / cocopeat bales
Air fill porosity (%) 12.8
Water holding capacity (%) 67.2
Electric conductivity <= 0.6 Ms/cm (1:10 Weight basic)
Ph 5.8 - 6.4
CPRM10/3-6 P - 4cu,ft coco peat / cocopeat bales
Air fill porosity (%) 36.4
Water holding capacity (%) 53.1
Electric conductivity <= 0.6 Ms/cm (1:10 weight basic)
Ph 5.8 - 6.4
CPRM10 coco peat / cocopeat Standed Grade
Air fill porosity (%) 20.6
Water holding capacity (%) 58.4
Electric conductivity <= 0.6 Ms/cm (1:10 Weight basic)
Ph 5.8 - 6.4.
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dongle69
Indeed!
Blurb from Atami:
There are two methods used for measuring Air Filled Porosity (AFP) in the coir. These are:
The European EN-method: Loose coir (no compression) is saturated with water and allowed free drainage for 24hrs. AFP is then measured. Atami coir measures at 35 – 40% AFP under this method.
The Dutch BLGG method: Coir is slightly compressed in a container and saturated with water where it is then allowed free drainage for 24hrs. Atami coir measures at 20 – 25% AFP under this method.
Blurb from Atami:
There are two methods used for measuring Air Filled Porosity (AFP) in the coir. These are:
The European EN-method: Loose coir (no compression) is saturated with water and allowed free drainage for 24hrs. AFP is then measured. Atami coir measures at 35 – 40% AFP under this method.
The Dutch BLGG method: Coir is slightly compressed in a container and saturated with water where it is then allowed free drainage for 24hrs. Atami coir measures at 20 – 25% AFP under this method.
indicapimp
Member
Sup, Dongle 69...Dongle love the grow...You are making it look to easy but you inspired me. This isn't no med state though...Jealous of the availability of clones... Life just not fair sometimes. Man a lot to digest here.. Puff Puff Pass
So what i am hearing is that if you only water once a day proper oxygen and nutes and the rest will take care of itself????
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the key to coco is to keep it moist and not wet or soaked. i water 3 times a day for 5 minutes total and it keeps the plants perfect, my yields are insane! mistress mentioned to water every 2-3 days, without knowing what the setup is, this advise can kill your plants. my plants would die after the first day without nutrients from drying up. from experience and side by side comparisons, watering with no runoff works best, but you must use a product like drip clean to eliminate salt buildup.
also starting with good quality coco like dongle69 said, if the coco's good quality, there is no need to flush it before initial use. canna has been very good to me and ive used every coco product on the market.
we are now doing side by side comparisons with coco croutons mixed in the coco and the results are spectacular, 1 bag of croutons to two bags of coco. good luck!
also starting with good quality coco like dongle69 said, if the coco's good quality, there is no need to flush it before initial use. canna has been very good to me and ive used every coco product on the market.
we are now doing side by side comparisons with coco croutons mixed in the coco and the results are spectacular, 1 bag of croutons to two bags of coco. good luck!
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dongle69
Thanks, glad to inspire!
Not exactly clear on what you are asking, but once plants are well rooted in coco, they love frequent waterings, assuming proper environment and container size.
Coco is a hydroponic medium and loves to be treated as such.
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dongle69
That sounds like a good combo.
I would do something similar but I am in a lazy mode.
w/ all things being equal, how is watered-daily coco diffrerent than watered-daily perlite?
a 20-25# bag of perlite is 20 coins. can fill 4-5 5 gal buckets w/ this/ if drill hole in side of bucket & water daily, is same as coco, that will cost more. not that cost is factor; but what would distinguish an all coco grow from an all perlite grow - if watering x-times daily?
coco was is good ag media due to capacity to hold water & cations. in greenhouses, this means less coins spent on water & feed.
here, there are fed full strength+, 2 times per week... water+nutes are wicked up as needed.
suppose that type of system is factor too. but bo way would ever water more than 1 time per day, whether 5 or 10 gal container. have not grown in any bigger tote/bucket... recall that am using passive method, w/ no run-off water ever being dumped, so this is drawn up into root system; just not applied from top. actual bucket w/ plant in it stays dry & light 24/7..., but rope stays wet & draws feed up to plants. works for the dom-goddes.
enjoy your garden!
a 20-25# bag of perlite is 20 coins. can fill 4-5 5 gal buckets w/ this/ if drill hole in side of bucket & water daily, is same as coco, that will cost more. not that cost is factor; but what would distinguish an all coco grow from an all perlite grow - if watering x-times daily?
coco was is good ag media due to capacity to hold water & cations. in greenhouses, this means less coins spent on water & feed.
here, there are fed full strength+, 2 times per week... water+nutes are wicked up as needed.
suppose that type of system is factor too. but bo way would ever water more than 1 time per day, whether 5 or 10 gal container. have not grown in any bigger tote/bucket... recall that am using passive method, w/ no run-off water ever being dumped, so this is drawn up into root system; just not applied from top. actual bucket w/ plant in it stays dry & light 24/7..., but rope stays wet & draws feed up to plants. works for the dom-goddes.
enjoy your garden!
or...krunchbubble said:
use molasses & humates to buffer & chelate the high ec...
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dongle69
Why do you want it to be different?
For me, one benefit of coco is that I can throw it in my yard when I'm done.
Not so much with perlite unless you like white crunchy stuff in your yard...
Run your hands through coco and then through perlite.
What feels better?
Planting and transplanting are much more enjoyable with coco vs perlite.
Perlite is a crutch not needed here.
disposability: advantage coco
disposability: advantage coco
pure perlite vs. coco
disposability:
advantage coco
disposability: advantage coco
pure perlite vs. coco
disposability:
advantage coco
indicapimp
Member
Quality coco is key.
Not all are created equal.
How is the Sun Leaves Product 2.5 cubic brick in Quality???
I've run most all of them & the biggest difference seems to be in texture/consistency... some have more husk & hairs, others like fine coffee grounds... big range. This mainly effects watering times & drainage.
If you can find it, try some Atami Bounce (compressed chunks) w a brick of whichever... no need for perlite cut if looking for higher drainage rates.
BTW, the Sun Leaves will work just fine, as will any of them, assuming you flush them prior to planting... don't know about the soaking as never did that before. People will disagree on flushing (& most anything) but check the initial run-off after you hydrate it w some plain RO water. Flush em until the run-off ppm's are in your comfort zone and/or the plants respond well enough. You'll find quite a range in values... some in excess of 2000ppms, others as low as 750. In the end, they will all work just fine after you get the initial ppm's down.
Also, until the coir reaches it's natural balance of cations, it will suck them up, e.g., Ca, K, etc. It kinda reaches a balance with whatever stores of salts it had initially w whatever the solution you feed it is. This is why coir can cause problems for some during the first 2-4 weeks. This is why I flush to get the medium in balance w what I want prior to planting. Just the same, you can often get away with good enough.
I like higher pH's of 6.2-6.5 initially & then 5.8-6.2. The higher ranges helps balance out the low pH you usually get off compressed bricks. Check em... some will be in the high-4's to low-5's.
Don't know about the other "commandments" but these be my vote. Peace to all.
If you can find it, try some Atami Bounce (compressed chunks) w a brick of whichever... no need for perlite cut if looking for higher drainage rates.
BTW, the Sun Leaves will work just fine, as will any of them, assuming you flush them prior to planting... don't know about the soaking as never did that before. People will disagree on flushing (& most anything) but check the initial run-off after you hydrate it w some plain RO water. Flush em until the run-off ppm's are in your comfort zone and/or the plants respond well enough. You'll find quite a range in values... some in excess of 2000ppms, others as low as 750. In the end, they will all work just fine after you get the initial ppm's down.
Also, until the coir reaches it's natural balance of cations, it will suck them up, e.g., Ca, K, etc. It kinda reaches a balance with whatever stores of salts it had initially w whatever the solution you feed it is. This is why coir can cause problems for some during the first 2-4 weeks. This is why I flush to get the medium in balance w what I want prior to planting. Just the same, you can often get away with good enough.
I like higher pH's of 6.2-6.5 initially & then 5.8-6.2. The higher ranges helps balance out the low pH you usually get off compressed bricks. Check em... some will be in the high-4's to low-5's.
Don't know about the other "commandments" but these be my vote. Peace to all.
I'm currently doing a run off between Pura Vida organics and AN Sensi, but neither are coco nutes. Whoever wins this harvest for yield will go up against Canna Coco nutes, or Agricultural organics (yellow bottle/Bloom) nutes. Yellow bottle is SUPER expensive though, makes Canna look cheap!
In addition to my initial pre-treat of cal/mag and strong veg nutes, I'm also going to recommend mixing in a mosquito dunk per bale for Bti, keeps bugs down and this is the easiest time to get it into the medium.
indicapimp
Member
What else is their besides CANA?Is it the micro nutes that are missing for coco use in organics or what? I would prefer to use organics...
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Hmm interesting, I've seen a number of different charts for those mediums though. I saw someone was starting to mix coco chips with regular coco, I've done straight chips the last couple runs (which has VASTLY higher air-holding) but it doesn't wick. In a drip system they'd be perfect, but for flood and drain wicking is important.
Based on Dongle's amazing results with plain coco (and no res changes!) I think plain coco is fine for E&F, but I hate perlite with a passion, it's just too hard to dispose of and there are much better alternatives if more air retention is needed.
I also wonder how much the air holding of a container of medium is affected by the pot? Like a regular plastic pot vs a net pot or smartpot, which allows faster drainage and more air exchange?
