Leaf tips curling down.

Hello,right I have my first problem.
I transplanted the cuttings I was given into my wilma system pots yesterday night.I washed the soil off in ph'ed water and transplanted into clay pebbles that had been soaked in in a bite mix for 24 hours.
The ec was set to .8 and had crept up to 1 over night but stabilised.
My p.h was at 5.8 but had been fluctuatin to 6.1 which I have been adjusting back down to between 5.8 and 6.0 then leaving.
Not sure if it's still stress or Im over watering or its a bite issue.
I'm using the canna Aqua range,Im going to dilute the mix down with some to water and have adjusted the feed schedule to 15mins every 3 hours.I was feeding 15 mins every two.
rez temp is fine but humidity dropped to 30 so ive raised the light a touch and put a soaked towell in there for now to see if Ivan bring that back up.I checked a while ago and humidity was sitting at 50% is this still to high and should I think about investing in a dehumidifier.
Sorry I'm a beginner so just need some solid advice on things I can try to combat my first issues.
Also on my phone so sorry if I'm rambling.

Sorry about the spelling mistakes,my iPhone hates me I think ��

Hi no response yet so i have uploaded a pic,to be honest theres not a lot changing really.
I've dropped my ec down to 0.7 and am keeping ph between 5.8 and 6 so not much drift.I pretty much diluted the mix with ro water to get the ec down which i'm hoping was the right thing to do.There is a few yellow spots here and there but they were there from the guy i picked the cuttings up off of.
I've cut the feed schedule down so the wilma pump runs for 15 minutes every 4 hours.
I will monitor for the next few days then probably flush and give a new mix over the weekend.
I transplanted from soil into clay pebbles so i've no idea what soil he was using.He transplants from soil into oxypots but told me he always gets a bit of leaf die off after transplanting so to expect some but i'm just not sure.
Any help or any info people can supply would be appreciated.

check your Ph
check your nuke mix
check your water temp

whenever you transplant from soil to hydro you will experience shock. the plant is creating water roots because it cant use soil roots, be patient. Going hydro is always a learning process, every plant is different, let it settle in before changing or flushing. add more air to rez, you can never have too much air.

Are u adding cal mag? If so back off it should go away as mine did.if it turns into claws like it looks like on the right side of the pic that means to much N i think

HOVAH2.0 said:

check your Ph
check your nuke mix
check your water temp

whenever you transplant from soil to hydro you will experience shock. the plant is creating water roots because it cant use soil roots, be patient. Going hydro is always a learning process, every plant is different, let it settle in before changing or flushing. add more air to rez, you can never have too much air.

Click to expand...

Hi i'm running two air stones in the rez,do you think up it to more?
I was going to do a rez tank change the weekend,do you think wait for one more week before i change the water?
Also rez temp is sitting at 73-75,i'm going to get some small water bottles to freeze and see if this helps.Also humidity is 42 now so i'm attempting to raise using wet towels and bowls of water.

windycitysmoker said:

Are u adding cal mag? If so back off it should go away as mine did.if it turns into claws like it looks like on the right side of the pic that means to much N i think

Click to expand...

I'm using canna aqua vega a/b with rhizotonic and cannazym,my friend has told me to stop with the cannzym.
When i picked the cuttings up they were in rockwool cubes and been rooted in soil,my ec i set to 0.8 but it rose to 1 within a day,i have added 10 ptrs of plain ph'ed ro water yesterday and today the ec is now 0.7.Do you think i should lower more?

Strain is ESB which is mainly a sativa,i have read that it's a strain that doesn't do well with heavy feeding so if i have to back off i will dilute one more time and try to get it to .5/.6
Thanks for the reply guys appreciated.

be patient, learn and always document what you do, the more detail the better. before you know it will take-off.

I would keep my ph at a 5.5 5.8. I see it keeps going up on u so i would lower it just a tab bit.Than i would e.c at .05 and check it every 12 hrs to see what shes doing.im using GH line plus there boosters with a little cal mag every once and a while.i noticed. When i would add a little bit to much cal mag the tips would slightly bend. Didnt hurt nothing i just backed off. Every strain is different. I would feed very light at fisrt.i would rather deal with a small def than a burnt stunned plant.i have notice the GH chart for recirclating .it gives my plant a P def in vegging they like a little more.also i notice one day i had a ph lock out..come to find out my meter was off my a whole point and a half not good.i hope some of this helps.And Go small with the ppm and watch what she does.add if it needs it.

Hey brother. .8 is a little to high just add RO to bring it back down to .5 - .6 Pic looks like you have them just a bit hot.

Stop adjusting your pH if its just at 5.8 and fluctuating to 6.1. Let them stabilize as long as the pH stays in your window of 5.8 t 6.2 let them roll. Only adjust if it goes out of the specified parameters. 6.1 is fine!!! 5.5 is just a bit to low for my taste. 5.8 to 6.2 is the industry standard. Constant pH adjustment causes its on kind of stress. It should fluctuate to some degree. Just keep it in the window. Going from dirt I would lean toward the high side rather than the low. 6.1 sounds perfect.

Did you get a pH meter or are you still using the drops?? The drops are iffy at best. Like I said before your success will live and die with your meter so pick the best meter you can afford. Blue Lab is the best by far.

Last but not least, Patience!!!! It will take a few days for them to stabilize. DONT FREAK OUT! if you freak out before you know it you will see problems where there are none.

What happened to your other thread???

Peace
GT

What he said

M.R.GT said:

Hey brother. .8 is a little to high just add RO to bring it back down to .5 - .6 Pic looks like you have them just a bit hot.

Stop adjusting your pH if its just at 5.8 and fluctuating to 6.1. Let them stabilize as long as the pH stays in your window of 5.8 t 6.2 let them roll. Only adjust if it goes out of the specified parameters. 6.1 is fine!!! 5.5 is just a bit to low for my taste. 5.8 to 6.2 is the industry standard. Constant pH adjustment causes its on kind of stress. It should fluctuate to some degree. Just keep it in the window. Going from dirt I would lean toward the high side rather than the low. 6.1 sounds perfect.

Did you get a pH meter or are you still using the drops?? The drops are iffy at best. Like I said before your success will live and die with your meter so pick the best meter you can afford. Blue Lab is the best by far.

Last but not least, Patience!!!! It will take a few days for them to stabilize. DONT FREAK OUT! if you freak out before you know it you will see problems where there are none.

What happened to your other thread???

Peace
GT

Click to expand...

I have a ph pen,i went out and bought some calibrating fluid like you advised and have calibrated the pen.
Ph has stabilised at 5.8,i just added ten litres of ro again and checked after an hour,the ph had gone up to 5.9 and the ec is now down to .6
Tent temp is killing me it peaked yesterday at 31 and it wasn't even that warm,thats with my 6" extraction running with my 5" intake.I've opened the door to the room and the window so its now running at 26.7,humidity is just over 50.
Rez temp is currently 74-76,just freezing some water bottles to see how they work,i have bought 8 so will swap 4 over at a time and place in the rez to try and bring that down,also i have bought the bits to get the pump out of rez tank but honestly can't see it heating the water only running 15 minutes every 3-4 hours,can you?
Just one question,i'm running a growlux 600w dual spectrum hps bulb on a dimmable digital ballast running at 400w.
Should i change to 400w mh for veg,this would give me the luxury of running at 400w or 250w.I have read that this can help with excess heat in the tent but don't know if this is correct as info online can be verrrrrrrrrryyyyy conflicting.
I set the hight of the light originally using the if it doesn't burn your hand it won't burn the plants technique,i raised it to just under two foot yesterday which seemed to help with temperature and now have raised it some more.
There isn't anymore yellow on the leaves but the claw is still there so i think patience is key.
Honestly thanks for the help guys,i know i'm panicking but i haven't really got anyone to turn to that will be genuine help other than the internet so its really appreciated.

Yes change to a 400 watt MH. if you can. The blues spectrum is better for Veg. 2' above the plants will be fine, If they look like they are stretching then lower it a bit, based on what you said. If it doesn't burn your hand then your OK.

Kick it over to HPS after the 2nd week of flower. The 400 watt will be less heat than the 600.

50 % humidity is OK for now. May become and issue later in flower but for the moment its OK.

26.7 C = 80 F so that's fine If it gets to around 83-85F inside the tent you will need to start worrying. 31c = 87.8 so yes that is to hot. You may want to adjust your light schedule. Are your running the lights during the day?? If so just put your light on a timer and have them on 18/6 lights on at night only. This will help you beat the heat of the day. Something like lights on at 18:00, off at 12:00 on a 24 hour clock. Adjust based on your climate. This will let you miss the hottest part of the day.

If you keep your root zone below that 70F temp range and tent temps around that 80F area you will be good.

If you continue to have high rez temps you may want to look into some Dutch masters zone. I have used it in the past with good results in high rez temp situations. This will help prevent root rot and give your solution better Oxy retention. 70F and below you don't need it.

Sounds like you have the pH stabilized so that a good thing..5 to .6 EC will work until they pick up and start growing.

74-76 rez temp are a little to high, the Ice bottles will work for that. I agree the pump is not you problem. 15 min on a flood cycle does not generate enough heat to matter. Try 15 min ever 4 hrs. After the 4 hours and before the pump kicks on check your hydroton to see how dry it is. If its overly dry drop down to every 3 hours on your flood schedule. Check again. You want the hydroton to dry out somewhat but not bone ass dry, you will just have to find that happy medium.

Last but not least patience. Going from dirt to hydro will take a few days to stabilize.

Keep this thread updated and we all will check in regularly to see if you need any help. Get your post count up and you can just PM me or windycity for help.


Peace
GT

Honestly, it looks fine. The stress you are inducing and projecting to the plants will be apparent. The pH is meant to fluctuate. Jeez, ppl are so critical of one pH when various ions are absorbed at slightly different +/- 5.8. In the experience of DWC for years , having a slightly higher pH will make less available iron because of its Ka changes . You can run a higher reservoir temp with a 6.0-6.2 value without any worry. Bio available iron is one of the main ingredients for root pathogens and other systemic issues like mold that thrive in a acidic mediums.

HPS is also fine. If you are on a budget, turn down the switch to the lowest setting and run it minimum of 18 hours.

Looks great, keep up the hard work.

You can veg with HPS true but be prepared for some stretchy plants. Compound that with heat issues and they will be stretchy and spindly.

If you can afford a MH get it. Also its preferred to run the appropriate bulb with the correct wattage. I.E. 400 watt setting 400 watt bulb, 600 watt setting 600 watt bulb. You can run higher bulbs at lower wattage just not as effective. At least that's what the light manufactures say. Could be a ploy to sell bulbs but I doubt it.

MH for veg HPS for flower, this hasn't changed in 25 years so I doubt it will today.

pH just keep it in your window. 5.8 - 6.2 this also hasn't changed in 25 years. They are supposed to fluctuate between those ranges as they feed. Different nutes become available at different pH. To most this is of little consequence as far as what and where it gets it as long as I gets it.

Be advised that if your rez temps run above 75F no matter the pH you are setting yourself up for root rot and Ox depletion. This is not my opinion this is another industry standard. So take it for what its worth.

Peace
GT

M.R.GT said:

Yes change to a 400 watt MH. if you can. The blues spectrum is better for Veg. 2' above the plants will be fine, If they look like they are stretching then lower it a bit, based on what you said. If it doesn't burn your hand then your OK.

Kick it over to HPS after the 2nd week of flower. The 400 watt will be less heat than the 600.

50 % humidity is OK for now. May become and issue later in flower but for the moment its OK.

26.7 C = 80 F so that's fine If it gets to around 83-85F inside the tent you will need to start worrying. 31c = 87.8 so yes that is to hot. You may want to adjust your light schedule. Are your running the lights during the day?? If so just put your light on a timer and have them on 18/6 lights on at night only. This will help you beat the heat of the day. Something like lights on at 18:00, off at 12:00 on a 24 hour clock. Adjust based on your climate. This will let you miss the hottest part of the day.

If you keep your root zone below that 70F temp range and tent temps around that 80F area you will be good.

If you continue to have high rez temps you may want to look into some Dutch masters zone. I have used it in the past with good results in high rez temp situations. This will help prevent root rot and give your solution better Oxy retention. 70F and below you don't need it.

Sounds like you have the pH stabilized so that a good thing..5 to .6 EC will work until they pick up and start growing.

74-76 rez temp are a little to high, the Ice bottles will work for that. I agree the pump is not you problem. 15 min on a flood cycle does not generate enough heat to matter. Try 15 min ever 4 hrs. After the 4 hours and before the pump kicks on check your hydroton to see how dry it is. If its overly dry drop down to every 3 hours on your flood schedule. Check again. You want the hydroton to dry out somewhat but not bone ass dry, you will just have to find that happy medium.

Last but not least patience. Going from dirt to hydro will take a few days to stabilize.

Keep this thread updated and we all will check in regularly to see if you need any help. Get your post count up and you can just PM me or windycity for help.


Peace
GT

Click to expand...

Again i can't thank you enough for the help,a little daunting now i've started hitting problems.
I think starting in summer was probably a bad idea but on the other hand also a good learning curve so should make winter growing a piece of cake!!!!
In all honesty the temp goes up normally pretty high when the light kicks in so i open the door to the room the tents in and the window which seems to be helping drop the temp to reasonable levels.I think a lot of it is the actual room temp causing the tent to be on the warm side,ac is out of the question because of power consumption but i think maybe circulating the outside air may help the tent cool a little so i'm going to try a fan in the room too to see if it helps.
Also i have read about additives to help with high rez temps issues,if water chillers were a little cheaper it would be a no brainer but with the initial outlay for the set up as it is its a bit out of budget.I think once i get a bit more money i will invest in an air cooled light hood which with the reading i've been doing should help no end.
Also as it stands a metal halide seems like a good option but money is tight at the moment so i may stick with the dual spectrum just for this grow,i'm a little worried with the stretching as the strain is mainly sativa so i'm expecting hight issues.I'm planning on using topping and lst once the girls have stabilised into their new home which will all be good practice.Originally i looked at strains that were indica dominant because of the hight issue but these cuttings were to good to turn down and i knew that it would be a good experience to how well i can handle sativas.
To be fair i think with me learning on ph drift i feel a little more positive now that i can leave the ph to drift between 5.8 and 6.2,i made a big mistake with the way i washed the pebbles.I soaked them in tap water but made my first nute mix with ro so i think when i run the wilma to soak the pebbles with the nute mix the tap water must have been causing it to rise because it is really balanced now so i will chalk that one down to experience and not make the same mistake again.
There is still a little clawing today but the leaves look lovely,no dark green and still only the yellow spotting that they had when i picked them up so maybe something a little positive.
I'm going to tackle the rez temp with a few ideas i've picked up off reading on this forum.I have managed to get a sheet of double layered foil they use to insulate walls in homes so i am going to cut this to shape around the top of the wilma lid and see if it insulates the tank from heat from the light,also i will use the water bottle technique and check it regularly.I'm willing to use additives but would rather i can control myself than rely on chemicals but yeah its always nice to know there is stuff to reach for if it gets out of control.
I'd like to hit .5gramme for every watt of light used for my first grow.Reading online this isn't unrealistic so it's a challenge i'm up for.
I will keep this thread for updates and post pics to let you all see how i'm getting on rather than spam the board with every little problem i may or may not have but again thanks if it wasn't for boards like this i would have probably killed my little lady's by now so lots of love for the help.
Its just brilliant that there is people like you guys willing to help a complete beginner like me,it gives me a little more confidence about my approach so fingers crossed i take the advice onboard and have a cracking first experience.
Also i will get my post count up so i can pm people,i'm not one to hassle people unwillingly but thanks it means a lot that people are willing to take time out of their lives to help absolute strangers like me

M.R.GT said:

You can veg with HPS true but be prepared for some stretchy plants. Compound that with heat issues and they will be stretchy and spindly.

If you can afford a MH get it. Also its preferred to run the appropriate bulb with the correct wattage. I.E. 400 watt setting 400 watt bulb, 600 watt setting 600 watt bulb. You can run higher bulbs at lower wattage just not as effective. At least that's what the light manufactures say. Could be a ploy to sell bulbs but I doubt it.

MH for veg HPS for flower, this hasn't changed in 25 years so I doubt it will today.

pH just keep it in your window. 5.8 - 6.2 this also hasn't changed in 25 years. They are supposed to fluctuate between those ranges as they feed. Different nutes become available at different pH. To most this is of little consequence as far as what and where it gets it as long as I gets it.

Be advised that if your rez temps run above 75F no matter the pH you are setting yourself up for root rot and Ox depletion. This is not my opinion this is another industry standard. So take it for what its worth.

Peace
GT

Click to expand...

Only just caught this post,you must have been writing as i was.
Ok i will look at a metal halide and get one asap.
I was going to buy a 400w anyway so i could run at 250,would you advise a 600 or just stick to 400 during these summer months?

Ok i bought a 400 watt sunmaster MH 7200k.
I will fit it once its here and veg with that.

Ok Gt one last question.
I know obviously all factors need to be on point but if funds were limited and you could spend on these two things what would you attack first......
Rez temp
Ambient temp
See i can't get the tent temp down much below 80 and with summer here sooner or later it will get hotter.My tent size and room size is the problem,my intake comes in from the bottom of the tent,i have an rvk fan sitting outside of the tent but its about a foot away from my room wall,i'm thinking maybe getting some ducting towards the window to try and bring outside air in rather than relying on air from the room but funds are so so limited now i don't want to waste money.Also factoring i will need to have a 90 degree bend so the intake will be affected i'm not sure if this is a good idea.Also once summer hits hard which it will i'll also be worried eventually outside temps will be just as bad as the room temp for air that i can draw on.
Now i could spend on a cooled hood but that is going to set me back a bit financially,the hood then the fan and ducting will set me back easily a few hundred maybe more so this brings me to a problem.Do i but a chiller,i found one that will cost me basically the same as an air cooled hood so rez temp will be cooled to and kept at the 68-75 it needs to be.
If you had the money to tackle one what would be your first port of call?