D
DoubleDDsNuggs
HIGH BRIX ROLS METHOD 4 MEDICINAL USES, PEST RESISTANCE
Brix is a measurement of the minerals, sugars, proteins using a refractometer that is used frequently in winemaking. High Brix food contains more nutrition with higher carbs and mineral content leading to better sweeter taste. Plants are resistant to pests and diseases the higher the number of brix level the plant achieves. Most plants have a Brix level of 8-10 but a healthy plant that is pest resistant has a brix level of 12 to start and the higher the number, the better the resistance. MMJ growers report on avg 16-19 with some claiming upwards of the low 20’s. Medicinal value is said to be greater due to better quality of juices leading to better terpene content.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=263692
The above link is the thread that I am using to base this grow off of. It contains all the info in a nutshell that I have learned researching this method. Another person to research who uses this method is DocBuds. He has endless threads talking about this and there are several others with recipes of their own. I chose this one to use because it was simple and seemed to be correct in the info I have gathered thus far.
The soil recipe I used is 25% happy frog/75% peat perlite mix measured out to 2 cuft. I mixed up enough for 10 cubic feet for a 3x3 root fabric bed I bought from Gro Pro. I also added more 6-5-3 than suggested. So instead of 1 cup; I used 1.5 cups. Here’s the original recipe:
“Adding 1 cup of 6-5-3 to 2.0 CF of soil (25% happy frog 75% peat perlite mix)
6-5-3 = 6 parts Calcium Carbonate 90% pure or better CaCo3(Limestone not Dolomite Lime) ß(this has too much magnesium and in Brix you’re trying for a specific cal/mag ratio. I had to go buy this at Ace Hardware. No garden lime-oops! Had to return).
5 parts Soft Rock Phosphate
3 parts gypsum
3 quarts EWC
1/2 cup Azomite
1/2 cup Bone Meal (I used fish bone meal which had a smidge more P)
Mycos (I used Subculture M, plus Dr Earth SRP has mycos)
mix it pour microbial tea over soil mix and let it cook 1 month in warm place, making sure it does not dry out during the cook period. like I said I didn’t create this this was formulated for me for high brix by ag lab” (He had it tested for berry’s and herbs. Doc Buds had his recipe tested for hops which is a relative of cannabis). Doc Buds has a whole mix you can buy apparently that doesn’t give out the recipe so you have to buy his kits.
In Brix, you don’t need much perlite as the amendments used help you achieve a loamy soil. It was truly beautiful when I was done mixing. Reading has shown that Brix soil only improves over the years so I plan to amend after harvest using soil test provided free by our county. After cooking a month, I plan to get a test to see what the base looks like and maybe get tests each month after wards to provide a basis to uses when deciding how to amend.
The recipe also uses Earth Juice Nutrients to feed weekly and also has a foliar feedings as well. The use of foliar is to super charge the plant. He is using AG Labs Brix plan to amend his soil at first but decides later on to use EJ products. Here is what he says about foliar feeding:
“Foliar Feed Regularly
Have you ever used an old-fashioned hand pump to draw out water from the ground? The first thing it needs is some water poured down the shaft followed by vigorous pumping on the handle. It only takes a small amount of water to “prime the pump.”
Foliar feeding is like priming the pump on a growing plant. A prerequisite prior to foliar feeding is to ensure adequate minerals and biology have been added to the soil. When this is coupled with regular nutrient drenches to keep the soil energy at its peak, the plant is now ready to be “primed,” via foliar feeding, for optimum production.
Let’s take a closer look at what happens when a foliar spray is applied to plant leaves. A well-made foliar spray is a dilute nutrient solution. If properly constructed it will pass through the leaf surface and increase the photosynthetic capability of the plant. In other words it will allow the plant to take in more energy from the sun. The difficulty is in properly constructing the foliar spray. It is very important to fully understand what effects specific nutrients have on plants. The wrong foliar spray at the wrong time can create a tremendous yield decline. Here is a very important caution when foliar spraying: Either know what you are doing or work with a consultant who does.
When a foliar program is properly applied the mineral density within the plant is increased, as are the carbohydrates or plant sugars. This increase of plant sugars and minerals are sent to the roots of the plants, some of which are excreted out of the roots as plant exudates. This increase of plant root exudates, caused by the foliar spray, creates a ready food supply for the bacteria that live symbiotically on the plant roots. Bacteria respond to this increased food supply by making more nutrients in the soil available to the plant. These minerals are picked up by the roots and sent to the aerial part of the plant. This process explains how a foliar spray can increase brix readings.
In addition to increasing nutrient density, a foliar spray is a command to a plant’s physiology. A foliar spray can either push a plant toward vegetative production i.e. growth of leaves, stems, and stalk or it can push a plant toward reproduction i.e. promotion of blossoms, flowers, and fruit set.
Systematic foliar spraying will exhibit a cumulative effect of increasing yield along with mineral density and plant sugars.
The Path to High Brix
In summary the Path to High Brix is really quite simple—just create the right environment for plants to express their full genetic potential. To do this we must have a vision and a roadmap as we do the following 3 steps:
Remineralize and Balance the Soil
Create and Maintain Soil Energy
Foliar Feed Regularly
Important Questions for high brix growing:
How much calcium is available for the crop to build healthy cells?
Is calcium in correct ratio with magnesium?
Is there sufficient available phosphates in the soil needed to carry other nutrients into the plant and provide the energy transfer within the plant?
Is there a broad-spectrum of trace minerals available to the plant?
How active is the soil biology?
These are the important issues that must be addressed if we are to achieve high brix.
In order to achieve high brix, certain ratios of minerals and major elements must be in balance. This part of the "method" is pure science, and not subject to opinion or debate.
Basically, you've got to have lots of calcium, most of it from limestone, soft rock phosphate and gypsum. If you use those 3 ingredients alone, 6 parts CaCo3 (calcium carbonate), 5 parts Sort Rock Phosphate, and 3 parts gypsum, you've got mineralized soil. 1 cup of this mix per bag of soil is a good place to start.
In addition to the foundational minerals, you'll want minors and trace elements. In a well-designed potting soil, adding a bit of Azomite.
Things to avoid as recommended by the lab:
Dolomite, lots of kelp, high phosphate ferts, compost, bentonite/montromorillionite, excess epsom salt, high potassium ferts.
The big surprise is compost. For some reason I used to be under the impression that compost was just nothing but good, and more compost improved the soil, etc. It turns out to be almost never used in high brix gardening
Dolomite is only good at one thing: stabilizing ph.
However, the rock powders I listed above will also stabilize pH AND be a source of minerals for the plants. There is no reason to use dolomite when you can do such a better job with the other stuff.
When looking for limestone, you want something pure and 90% or better Calcium Carbonate. Please take note that this is not Calcium Carbonate Equivalent.....but actual Calcium Carbonate. Limestone = Calcium Carbonate. (CaC03)
When you see something listed "calcium carbonate equivalent" and then some percentage after, it's describing the pH buffering capacity of the material. We're only interested in that as a secondary consideration. We want the calcium! So, pay no attention to equivalents....just look at raw ingredients and get something 90% or better CaCo3, which is exactly what you have there!
Be careful with the molasses it's high in potassium. Use it sparingly. Dextrose is an excellent source for beneficial Be careful with the molasses.
Good amendments to add
Oyster shell
fish bone meal
Azomite, any minerals with trace
EWC
crab meal
Greensand is way too high in potassium. You won't get anywhere near high brix with that.”
FEEDING SCHEDULE:
---- Catalyst--Microblast--Grow---Bloom--Sugar cane syrup--Hygrozyme--Kool Bloom--Calcium Nitrate
1 )veg--5ml--------5ml----5ml
2 )veg--5ml--------5ml----5ml
3 )veg--5ml--------5ml----5ml--------------------5ml--------------2.5ml
4 )veg--7.5ml-----5ml-----7.5ml------------------5ml--------------2.5ml
1)flwr--10ml-----5ml--------------7.5ml---------5ml---------------5ml------------2.5ml
2)flwr--10ml-----5ml-------------10ml---------10ml-------------5ml--------------5.0ml---1/8 tsp per gal
3)flwr--10ml-----5ml-------------10ml---------10ml------------10ml--------------5.0ml—1/8 tsp per gal
4)flwr--5ml-------5ml------------10ml---------15ml------------10ml--------------7.5 ml--1/8 tsp per gal
5 )flwr--5ml-------5ml------------10+ml------20ml-----------10ml---------------5ml---1 tsp per gal
6 )flwr-------------5ml------------10+ ml------20-25ml---------10ml------------2.5ml--
7 )flwr---------------5ml-----------------------20ml------------10ml
8 )flwr-----water only till harvest on 60-65 day strains. Continue week 7 if flowering longer varieties.
Spray Schedule:
Veg spray once a week-spray day after feeding
½ tsp Calcium Nitrate + 1 tsp Dextrose
use when plants are on 5th leaf set
Veg spray once a week** don't use if plants looks perfect **
Neptune Fish and Seaweed + Dextrose use 2-3 days after Calcium nitrate and once a week during early bloom stop using when anionic and cationic sprays are being used
Humus water = 5ml Medina HuMate liquid humus + 1 gal water + 1 tsp Dextrose
use in place of plain watering once a week between feedings then use plain water if needed before next feeding ** not to be used during flush**
Anionic spray = ½ tsp Calcium Nitrate + 1 tsp Dextrose + 5ml Neptune Fish and Seaweed + 5ml Earth Juice Microblast.
To be used 1 day after Anionic Drench feedings are given to plants
Cationic spray = General Hydroponics Kool Bloom 1/16th tsp + 5 ml Neptune Fish and Seaweed + 1 tsp Dextrose + 5 ml EJ Microblast
To be used 1 day after Cationic Drench feedings are given to plants
Anionic and Cationic Drench
used on alternate feedings starting at the first sign of flower set development usually week 2-4 during BLOOM PHASE. We are going to play these two different sources of energy against each other which will result in more vigor and better essential oil production in herbs and more nutrition, sugars and calcium in fruits and vegetables. Most have a nutrient base of liquid fish. They are applied with water at the base of the plants once a month. He did not give a recipe for the drenches so I am going to use the spray’s ingredients as a guideline and decide on how strong to make it.
What is the purpose of the nutrient drench?
Nutrient drenches in the High Brix Garden program perform 2 improvement functions. First they help the soil maintain its electrical conductance. This provides the soil with plenty of energy to keep the plants growing at full speed. Secondly nutrient drenches can supply extra nutrients to plants that have special requirements.
Who the hell am I?
A little bit about me: I started growing at the end of January this year in ebb and flow which turned bad and so I planted them into soil after two months. I enjoy hydro and its control but pathogens seem to attack my rez and researching has led me to stumble upon high brix when looking for pest/disease management. Everyone one in my community is into organics and tell of their ease of use and disease management due to the healthiness of their plants, nature, granola and bananas….
I have spent a shit ton on hydro products and am still having troubles so I’m probably going to start growing in beds and doing a recycled organic living soil bed. I looked into different types of bed designs like Soma beds, Earthboxes, but don’t like the idea of the bed not being able to drain all the way. So I found a smart pot fabric style bed to use with my 3x3 tray filled with hydropellets so the fabric bed is exposed to more air underneath and also allows for thorough drainage. By reusing the soil, I save money and also can create higher brix over time. Soil used after 3 years has been reported to go from a C grade up to A or B so each harvest should improve. This can’t be done forever I’m assuming as soil needs a rest period so as time progresses, hopefully I can figure out when I need to start fresh.
Strain: Dream Berry (Blue Dream male x Shishkaberry)
This strain was bred locally and released through a collective garden near Olympia Washington. When I went to pick it up, the owner said that the breeder got a Blue Dream male and crossed it with Plushberry, then immediately said, “no wait, Shishkaberry!” I tried looking it up to see if anyone has any info and it brought me to another Dream Berry but different lineage. He said that it has a sweet tart taste with a sweet taste at first that has some lemony tang afterwards. It is a sativa dominant hybrid. Flowering time for the Shishkaberry is 8 weeks while Blue Dream is 10 weeks so I’m hoping for 8-9 week finishing time.
EDIT: strain is a blue dream female crossed with a shishkaberry male. i went to confirm identity with dispensary owner. also, the above feed schedule and plan is being revised throughout the thread to eliminate non organics. please read thread entirely while grow is progressing. At the end I will revise this to reflect the final changes made as well as original for comparison.
Brix is a measurement of the minerals, sugars, proteins using a refractometer that is used frequently in winemaking. High Brix food contains more nutrition with higher carbs and mineral content leading to better sweeter taste. Plants are resistant to pests and diseases the higher the number of brix level the plant achieves. Most plants have a Brix level of 8-10 but a healthy plant that is pest resistant has a brix level of 12 to start and the higher the number, the better the resistance. MMJ growers report on avg 16-19 with some claiming upwards of the low 20’s. Medicinal value is said to be greater due to better quality of juices leading to better terpene content.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=263692
The above link is the thread that I am using to base this grow off of. It contains all the info in a nutshell that I have learned researching this method. Another person to research who uses this method is DocBuds. He has endless threads talking about this and there are several others with recipes of their own. I chose this one to use because it was simple and seemed to be correct in the info I have gathered thus far.
The soil recipe I used is 25% happy frog/75% peat perlite mix measured out to 2 cuft. I mixed up enough for 10 cubic feet for a 3x3 root fabric bed I bought from Gro Pro. I also added more 6-5-3 than suggested. So instead of 1 cup; I used 1.5 cups. Here’s the original recipe:
“Adding 1 cup of 6-5-3 to 2.0 CF of soil (25% happy frog 75% peat perlite mix)
6-5-3 = 6 parts Calcium Carbonate 90% pure or better CaCo3(Limestone not Dolomite Lime) ß(this has too much magnesium and in Brix you’re trying for a specific cal/mag ratio. I had to go buy this at Ace Hardware. No garden lime-oops! Had to return).
5 parts Soft Rock Phosphate
3 parts gypsum
3 quarts EWC
1/2 cup Azomite
1/2 cup Bone Meal (I used fish bone meal which had a smidge more P)
Mycos (I used Subculture M, plus Dr Earth SRP has mycos)
mix it pour microbial tea over soil mix and let it cook 1 month in warm place, making sure it does not dry out during the cook period. like I said I didn’t create this this was formulated for me for high brix by ag lab” (He had it tested for berry’s and herbs. Doc Buds had his recipe tested for hops which is a relative of cannabis). Doc Buds has a whole mix you can buy apparently that doesn’t give out the recipe so you have to buy his kits.
In Brix, you don’t need much perlite as the amendments used help you achieve a loamy soil. It was truly beautiful when I was done mixing. Reading has shown that Brix soil only improves over the years so I plan to amend after harvest using soil test provided free by our county. After cooking a month, I plan to get a test to see what the base looks like and maybe get tests each month after wards to provide a basis to uses when deciding how to amend.
The recipe also uses Earth Juice Nutrients to feed weekly and also has a foliar feedings as well. The use of foliar is to super charge the plant. He is using AG Labs Brix plan to amend his soil at first but decides later on to use EJ products. Here is what he says about foliar feeding:
“Foliar Feed Regularly
Have you ever used an old-fashioned hand pump to draw out water from the ground? The first thing it needs is some water poured down the shaft followed by vigorous pumping on the handle. It only takes a small amount of water to “prime the pump.”
Foliar feeding is like priming the pump on a growing plant. A prerequisite prior to foliar feeding is to ensure adequate minerals and biology have been added to the soil. When this is coupled with regular nutrient drenches to keep the soil energy at its peak, the plant is now ready to be “primed,” via foliar feeding, for optimum production.
Let’s take a closer look at what happens when a foliar spray is applied to plant leaves. A well-made foliar spray is a dilute nutrient solution. If properly constructed it will pass through the leaf surface and increase the photosynthetic capability of the plant. In other words it will allow the plant to take in more energy from the sun. The difficulty is in properly constructing the foliar spray. It is very important to fully understand what effects specific nutrients have on plants. The wrong foliar spray at the wrong time can create a tremendous yield decline. Here is a very important caution when foliar spraying: Either know what you are doing or work with a consultant who does.
When a foliar program is properly applied the mineral density within the plant is increased, as are the carbohydrates or plant sugars. This increase of plant sugars and minerals are sent to the roots of the plants, some of which are excreted out of the roots as plant exudates. This increase of plant root exudates, caused by the foliar spray, creates a ready food supply for the bacteria that live symbiotically on the plant roots. Bacteria respond to this increased food supply by making more nutrients in the soil available to the plant. These minerals are picked up by the roots and sent to the aerial part of the plant. This process explains how a foliar spray can increase brix readings.
In addition to increasing nutrient density, a foliar spray is a command to a plant’s physiology. A foliar spray can either push a plant toward vegetative production i.e. growth of leaves, stems, and stalk or it can push a plant toward reproduction i.e. promotion of blossoms, flowers, and fruit set.
Systematic foliar spraying will exhibit a cumulative effect of increasing yield along with mineral density and plant sugars.
The Path to High Brix
In summary the Path to High Brix is really quite simple—just create the right environment for plants to express their full genetic potential. To do this we must have a vision and a roadmap as we do the following 3 steps:
Remineralize and Balance the Soil
Create and Maintain Soil Energy
Foliar Feed Regularly
Important Questions for high brix growing:
How much calcium is available for the crop to build healthy cells?
Is calcium in correct ratio with magnesium?
Is there sufficient available phosphates in the soil needed to carry other nutrients into the plant and provide the energy transfer within the plant?
Is there a broad-spectrum of trace minerals available to the plant?
How active is the soil biology?
These are the important issues that must be addressed if we are to achieve high brix.
In order to achieve high brix, certain ratios of minerals and major elements must be in balance. This part of the "method" is pure science, and not subject to opinion or debate.
Basically, you've got to have lots of calcium, most of it from limestone, soft rock phosphate and gypsum. If you use those 3 ingredients alone, 6 parts CaCo3 (calcium carbonate), 5 parts Sort Rock Phosphate, and 3 parts gypsum, you've got mineralized soil. 1 cup of this mix per bag of soil is a good place to start.
In addition to the foundational minerals, you'll want minors and trace elements. In a well-designed potting soil, adding a bit of Azomite.
Things to avoid as recommended by the lab:
Dolomite, lots of kelp, high phosphate ferts, compost, bentonite/montromorillionite, excess epsom salt, high potassium ferts.
The big surprise is compost. For some reason I used to be under the impression that compost was just nothing but good, and more compost improved the soil, etc. It turns out to be almost never used in high brix gardening
Dolomite is only good at one thing: stabilizing ph.
However, the rock powders I listed above will also stabilize pH AND be a source of minerals for the plants. There is no reason to use dolomite when you can do such a better job with the other stuff.
When looking for limestone, you want something pure and 90% or better Calcium Carbonate. Please take note that this is not Calcium Carbonate Equivalent.....but actual Calcium Carbonate. Limestone = Calcium Carbonate. (CaC03)
When you see something listed "calcium carbonate equivalent" and then some percentage after, it's describing the pH buffering capacity of the material. We're only interested in that as a secondary consideration. We want the calcium! So, pay no attention to equivalents....just look at raw ingredients and get something 90% or better CaCo3, which is exactly what you have there!
Be careful with the molasses it's high in potassium. Use it sparingly. Dextrose is an excellent source for beneficial Be careful with the molasses.
Good amendments to add
Oyster shell
fish bone meal
Azomite, any minerals with trace
EWC
crab meal
Greensand is way too high in potassium. You won't get anywhere near high brix with that.”
FEEDING SCHEDULE:
---- Catalyst--Microblast--Grow---Bloom--Sugar cane syrup--Hygrozyme--Kool Bloom--Calcium Nitrate
1 )veg--5ml--------5ml----5ml
2 )veg--5ml--------5ml----5ml
3 )veg--5ml--------5ml----5ml--------------------5ml--------------2.5ml
4 )veg--7.5ml-----5ml-----7.5ml------------------5ml--------------2.5ml
1)flwr--10ml-----5ml--------------7.5ml---------5ml---------------5ml------------2.5ml
2)flwr--10ml-----5ml-------------10ml---------10ml-------------5ml--------------5.0ml---1/8 tsp per gal
3)flwr--10ml-----5ml-------------10ml---------10ml------------10ml--------------5.0ml—1/8 tsp per gal
4)flwr--5ml-------5ml------------10ml---------15ml------------10ml--------------7.5 ml--1/8 tsp per gal
5 )flwr--5ml-------5ml------------10+ml------20ml-----------10ml---------------5ml---1 tsp per gal
6 )flwr-------------5ml------------10+ ml------20-25ml---------10ml------------2.5ml--
7 )flwr---------------5ml-----------------------20ml------------10ml
8 )flwr-----water only till harvest on 60-65 day strains. Continue week 7 if flowering longer varieties.
Spray Schedule:
Veg spray once a week-spray day after feeding
½ tsp Calcium Nitrate + 1 tsp Dextrose
use when plants are on 5th leaf set
Veg spray once a week** don't use if plants looks perfect **
Neptune Fish and Seaweed + Dextrose use 2-3 days after Calcium nitrate and once a week during early bloom stop using when anionic and cationic sprays are being used
Humus water = 5ml Medina HuMate liquid humus + 1 gal water + 1 tsp Dextrose
use in place of plain watering once a week between feedings then use plain water if needed before next feeding ** not to be used during flush**
Anionic spray = ½ tsp Calcium Nitrate + 1 tsp Dextrose + 5ml Neptune Fish and Seaweed + 5ml Earth Juice Microblast.
To be used 1 day after Anionic Drench feedings are given to plants
Cationic spray = General Hydroponics Kool Bloom 1/16th tsp + 5 ml Neptune Fish and Seaweed + 1 tsp Dextrose + 5 ml EJ Microblast
To be used 1 day after Cationic Drench feedings are given to plants
Anionic and Cationic Drench
used on alternate feedings starting at the first sign of flower set development usually week 2-4 during BLOOM PHASE. We are going to play these two different sources of energy against each other which will result in more vigor and better essential oil production in herbs and more nutrition, sugars and calcium in fruits and vegetables. Most have a nutrient base of liquid fish. They are applied with water at the base of the plants once a month. He did not give a recipe for the drenches so I am going to use the spray’s ingredients as a guideline and decide on how strong to make it.
What is the purpose of the nutrient drench?
Nutrient drenches in the High Brix Garden program perform 2 improvement functions. First they help the soil maintain its electrical conductance. This provides the soil with plenty of energy to keep the plants growing at full speed. Secondly nutrient drenches can supply extra nutrients to plants that have special requirements.
Who the hell am I?
A little bit about me: I started growing at the end of January this year in ebb and flow which turned bad and so I planted them into soil after two months. I enjoy hydro and its control but pathogens seem to attack my rez and researching has led me to stumble upon high brix when looking for pest/disease management. Everyone one in my community is into organics and tell of their ease of use and disease management due to the healthiness of their plants, nature, granola and bananas….
I have spent a shit ton on hydro products and am still having troubles so I’m probably going to start growing in beds and doing a recycled organic living soil bed. I looked into different types of bed designs like Soma beds, Earthboxes, but don’t like the idea of the bed not being able to drain all the way. So I found a smart pot fabric style bed to use with my 3x3 tray filled with hydropellets so the fabric bed is exposed to more air underneath and also allows for thorough drainage. By reusing the soil, I save money and also can create higher brix over time. Soil used after 3 years has been reported to go from a C grade up to A or B so each harvest should improve. This can’t be done forever I’m assuming as soil needs a rest period so as time progresses, hopefully I can figure out when I need to start fresh.
Strain: Dream Berry (Blue Dream male x Shishkaberry)
This strain was bred locally and released through a collective garden near Olympia Washington. When I went to pick it up, the owner said that the breeder got a Blue Dream male and crossed it with Plushberry, then immediately said, “no wait, Shishkaberry!” I tried looking it up to see if anyone has any info and it brought me to another Dream Berry but different lineage. He said that it has a sweet tart taste with a sweet taste at first that has some lemony tang afterwards. It is a sativa dominant hybrid. Flowering time for the Shishkaberry is 8 weeks while Blue Dream is 10 weeks so I’m hoping for 8-9 week finishing time.
EDIT: strain is a blue dream female crossed with a shishkaberry male. i went to confirm identity with dispensary owner. also, the above feed schedule and plan is being revised throughout the thread to eliminate non organics. please read thread entirely while grow is progressing. At the end I will revise this to reflect the final changes made as well as original for comparison.
Last edited:
are you gonna join the grow contest??
