Join Date: Oct 2010
a painting process...
absolutely, B. For those of you that don't mind dealing with oil-based, it will do like you say, and I wouldn't recommend latex primer if that's all you are going to use. I, myself, hate working with oil. Too many years of being around those VOCs... For myself, I find it easiest, and healthiest, to follow this basic process:
of course, I recommend adequate ventilation, and/or a respirator for dust/fumes. Paint fumes are really bad for your nervous/respiratory (and other) systems.
1. Clear: the room of everything except what is getting painted.
2. Remove: all hardware/plates/nails/screws.
3. Clean: all surfaces (I wipe everything down with a bleach solution, after a quick sweep/vacuum of all surfaces). if not painting the floor, put down dropcloths on areas not to be painted.
4. Prep: sand all glossy paints (just to remove gloss) fill all holes with putty, spackle, etc.. I recommend lightweight spackle (fluff) as my first choice. It isn't messy, and dries quickly.
5. Priming: First, make sure every surface is clean/dry (wiped with a damp cloth works great). Use a good latex all-purpose primer like Benjamin Moore Fresh Start or Kilz Premium. Prime all surfaces, (see additional posts for painting tips, as this is just an overview). Priming seals the surface, and makes it ready to accept the topcoat, which provides opacity/durability/etc.. As a general rule, you will go through twice as much primer as topcoat. Part of the reason is the chemistry of the product, but another is that, when priming, make sure to penetrate that stuff into every little seam and crack. This is where good prepping/filling saves time and effort.
6. Caulk: "anywhere you see black" is a good rule of thumb. That means cracks, seams, joints, where trim meets walls, walls meet baseboards, etc. When you finish, the room should look "tight". Caulking, besides making the room environmentally tighter, also makes painting easier, as bristles don't get caught in cracks, and paint doesn't pool and drip.
7. Top coat (finish paint): use a flat wall paint, or, as FinestKind mentioned, a matte finish (basically flat) is the best option due to it's washablilty. The less of the gloss in the paint, the better the light diffusion!!!
8. 2nd coat: unless you started with white walls, you will want to do a second coat of finish paint. Even if you did, this is the way to make the walls the whitest, and the most durable. Don't worry, each time you go over the room will take less time. Priming's the longest, and this 2nd coat flies..
***The best part about painting EVERYTHING white, is that you don't have to worry about cutting, etc. grab a 3" brush, a 9" roller with a 1/2" nap, and go to town. always work top to bottom, left to right. That way you know where you've been (it can get confusing with the whiteness of it all). If you want to paint the floor, the best choice is deck & floor paint (has epoxy in it), but you can get away with a coat of wall paint. It will wear away faster, but your floor is going to get trashed anyway, most likely... Maybe easier to repaint every couple of years...
step back from all the walls/ceiling/trim/window coverings/floor/tables/shelves as they flatly-gleam white and think of all the lumens you've saved. More lumens = more product.
that's all for now. hope it helps! I'm happy to tailor this kind of plan for anyone who needs a cheaper one.