making soil while quarantined

Ok i need something to do while self quarantined. I need to recycle my soil. I need help with the proper recipes. I have
Used soil with foxfarm, perlite and peat mixed. It was used one season and then placed outside. Most has been in barrels with sun and snow and rain exposure. Some has a small amount of biochar added.
I also have:
Aglime with calcium and magnesium
Oyster shell
Home made biochar
Earthworm castings
Municipal grade mulch that has set all year.
Azomite
Peat moss
Powdered diamtomaceous earth
A small amount of sand
A small amount of pea gravel
Blood meal
Bone meal
Cow manure
Horse manure


Any idea how to much of each of these to mix?

Here's my mix.

120 gallons (16 cu ft)

Base:
5 cu ft compost
5 cu ft perlite
2.5 cu ft coco coir
2.5 cu ft peat moss


30 lb worm castings
30 lb chicken manure
5 lb hi phosphorus bat guano
5 lb hi nitrogen bat guano
5 lb blood meal
4 cups gypsum
½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)
5 lbs steamed bone meal
3 cups oyster shell
4 cups feather meal
4 cups crustacean meal
½ cup Epsom salts
½ cup azomite (trace elements)
3 lbs rock phosphate
2 tablespoons powdered humic acid
4 cups kelp meal.
2 tablespoons mycorrhizae
3 cups alfalfa meal
6 cups organic rice

Sounds complicated and, for us anyway, a bit overkill.

Make sure manure is not recent.

Easy Organic Soil Recipe:
To make 1 cubic foot (7.5 gallons) of base soil:

1/2 part peat moss
1/2 part humus (compost and/or ewc (earthworm castings)- can do all compost or all ewc or some mixture of the two) Mushroom compost easy to obtain: HD/Lowes
1/2 + part aeration amendment (perlite or vermiculite)
1/4 part clean sand
1 cup lime (per cubic foot)

Nutritional amendments: you want to add about 2-3 cups total of all your nutritional amendments per cubic foot (7.5 gallons) of soil. Note that this means 2-3 cups total, a combination of all your nutritional amendments, not 2-3 cups of each amendment.
1 cup kelp meal or alfalfa meal
1.5 cups dry organic fertilizer (kelp or animal.-blood, bone, feather meal)

We reuse soil, baking it and adding EC castings, alfalfa meal, azomite & adding a little BuffaLoam...works great! Each time, better and better! Recharge every season (same for indoor mix, not bring outdoors in). Every 3-4th year add a black soil mix and dehydrated egg shells, pulverized. In bloom stage (autos), top dress for bloom cycle:

Kelp meal
Crustacean meal
Azomite
Gypsum
Bokashi
Bone meal

Personally, prefer plant based dressings/fertilizer. Insider info: Not all bone/blood/feather meal is acceptable. Rendering plants shovel or front load sick animals for chemical fertilizers. Where they end up....?????

How to Maintain/Amend Your Super Soil Mix
Step 2: Apply Top Dressing or use an organic matter compost tea

Starting with worm castings, apply a thick, even layer. You can then add other nutrients as recommended for top dressing. However, when feeding, less is always safer. Many choose to go a bit below the product’s recommendations to protect their crops.

Hope that helps.

Ok so i think i got spider mites from using homemade ewc, and wonder if i can just reuse my old soil by adding blood and bone meal? Maybe some azomite? Im seriously not going to the grow store right now.

Im'One said:

Ok so i think i got spider mites from using homemade ewc, and wonder if i can just reuse my old soil by adding blood and bone meal? Maybe some azomite? Im seriously not going to the grow store right now.

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If I were in that position, I'd bake the bagged ewc with some of your old soil. 275F for 30 minutes, let cool down add to soil and other ingredients. Sure blood/bone meal, a good additive.

Understandable limiting outings to stores. Stay safe!

You've got plenty to make a healthy soil mix. Perhaps add some Azomite and Peat and voilà!!

Proportions mentioned in previous post were approximations on ratios.
Good luck!

Did a little further research. PM'd Im'One to let him know. Could be from other material mixed in earthworm castings or not cleaning grow area, maybe soil, etc.

https://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/8...t-control-techniques-using-earthworm-castings

Just watch out how much lime you put in. Some Limes ain't Limes like other Limes. Getta pH Test Kit. Won't cost much. You're looking for your bulk mix to finish up with a pH between 6 and 7. @Aridbud ... respect but I think your recipe has too much lime.

Teddybrae said:

Just watch out how much lime you put in. Some Limes ain't Limes like other Limes. Getta pH Test Kit. Won't cost much. You're looking for your bulk mix to finish up with a pH between 6 and 7. @Aridbud ... respect but I think your recipe has too much lime.

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Perhaps you are right. We don't use it personally, but those with acidic soils, it's a great equalizer. Got the recipe from another auto grower that swears by it. Also uses Baking Soda in huge holes dug....claims it makes both tomatoes and cannabis sweet!!

For us....recycled soil adding black soil every three years and EW poop, alfalfa meal and azomite. Works great! And use kelp for bloom nutes.

When correctly applied, lime works to increase the pH of acidic soil. This creates a healthier base for plants to grow, because they’ll now have access to the nutrients and minerals they need to thrive. Garden lime is a powdered or pelletized product made from naturally occurring minerals. It has been used safely in agriculture for over a thousand years to change the soil pH, making it easier for plants to take up minerals and nutrients from the soil.

Lime also promotes the spread of new, good bacteria in your garden by supplying critical nutrients like phosphorus and zinc in your soil. Limestone also enables you to fertilize your garden more effectively, which means you won’t have to spend a lot of money to have a beautiful garden.

I have seen Calcium ... Lime's central ingredient described as "... the Trucker of Minerals". Without Calcium other minerals can't do their job.
Sounds like I'm One has got himself some Dolomite Lime. That is: it contains Magnesium as well as Calcium. This is GOOD! Cannabis likes regular Magnesium.
Just be careful applying same because if you over-apply it's very difficult in the short term to re-acidify soil.
Also the finer the material is ground the quicker the Dolomite will be absorbed. (So have a close look what ya got, I 'm One.)

Ok im short any perlite or vermiculite but my old soil had quite a lot. I do have some pea gravel, very small river gravel with sand in it. Not sure if i can use it or no. I will bake some ewc tonight snd some old soil tomorrow. With this and the azomite, some powdered ag lime and peat, adding some blood and bone meal i will be ok i think.

you can do it, teddy, short term re-acidify soil, start by scooping up some of the soil in your handz to see if it's loose or compacted. if it's loose, mix some organic material into the soil to acidify it, like compost- i like mushroom compost you get at hd. manure, or sphagnum peat moss workz good too. If the soil iz compacted, mix elemental sulfur or iron sulfate into it to make it more acidic.
cannabis can drain the soil of nutrients plus diseases can build up in your planting area, amend your soil with composted cotton burr, composted cow manure, alfalfa meal and humate. it increasez the efficiency of fertilizerz especially the nitrogen and phosphorus based fertilizer.
back to mushroom compost, gr8 in buckets, indoor. mushroom compost iz most useful on acid soilz that are low in organic matter, where the liming effect of the chalk iz an added benefit to soil fertility. whew!

i'm one- you got it made in the shade with all thoze ingredients. mix em up good, follow otherz suggestionz. bam!

Here's how I mix my soil with a tarpaulin.

Thanks! I know about those acidifying minerals but they still take time to change the soil ... and if yr not well organised like me, a blunder like I previously described could shorten yr grow by weeks until the soil was right again. So best be careful.

pumpkinpie eyes said:

you can do it, teddy, short term re-acidify soil, start by scooping up some of the soil in your handz to see if it's loose or compacted. if it's loose, mix some organic material into the soil to acidify it, like compost- i like mushroom compost you get at hd. manure, or sphagnum peat moss workz good too. If the soil iz compacted, mix elemental sulfur or iron sulfate into it to make it more acidic.

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Im'One in short no sand or gravel are rocks and are not aeration. Lava rock or pumice appear more 'permanent' since perlite can be crushed somewhat easily, the volume weight density or air fraction is what you want for that component.

soil mix

soil mix

Mind if I ask where your recipe is (modified or adapted) from?

Maggotbrain said:

Here's my mix.

120 gallons (16 cu ft)

Base:
5 cu ft compost
5 cu ft perlite
2.5 cu ft coco coir
2.5 cu ft peat moss


30 lb worm castings
30 lb chicken manure
5 lb hi phosphorus bat guano
5 lb hi nitrogen bat guano
5 lb blood meal
4 cups gypsum
½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)
5 lbs steamed bone meal
3 cups oyster shell
4 cups feather meal
4 cups crustacean meal
½ cup Epsom salts
½ cup azomite (trace elements)
3 lbs rock phosphate
2 tablespoons powdered humic acid
4 cups kelp meal.
2 tablespoons mycorrhizae
3 cups alfalfa meal
6 cups organic rice

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1/3 each compost, aeration, and coco/peat is a common guideline. For one cubic yard of soilless media six bags of each of the three parts (1.5 cu ft bags). In this case four main ingredients with the one third split into two parts, one over six or 16.7% by volume. 3 bags of coco and 3 bags (one 3.8 bale) of peat. 6 bags (1.5 cu ft) or 2+ large (4 cu ft) bags of coarse perlite per cubic yard. Most recently I used as much as 25% native clay soil in 2 gallon bags. Too heavy with consistency in the mix and container size affecting outcome. Nice to grow in but too heavy or nutrient rich could use half leaf straw mold compost or something comparable by volume. Clay soil + amendments without enough of the following - coco, bark, perlite, peat, lava rock, pumice, coarse sand is more like small plastic cups of concrete, for a fence post. Instead of airy friable soil (-less medium).


I may try this mix reusing what I have for the fertilizer/amendment part. One recipe calls for 7 cups gypsum and nearly 1 cup dolomitic lime per cubic yard. And 6 more cups oyster shell with almost 1 cup epsom salts? The other recipe has 27 cups of lime per cubic yard with more peat moss instead of using any coco coir.


The compost I have looks rich and I'm not sure it is finished cooking really. I can mix 1/3 coco and peat, 1/3 perlite, maybe whatever the soil bags recycled containers add up to with the rest grape seed compost. Volume measurement with a bucket or perlite bag whatever works. The lime and organic acid reaction may differ for a fresh compost heap rich with fertilizer or a cool weather base media with less fertilizer mixed in. Lime to balance peat moss or fertilizer which will become organic acids and humus, or lime to balance acid in compost with less peat and native clay alkaline soil. I'll add the bag of gypsum is at least marketed as softens soil sof-n-soil I think it says. Lime I have is in a brown paper bag with green writing 50 lb dolomitic limestone fine sand almost powder more like white beach sand raises pH calcium and magnesium. Gypsum is powder like flour calcium and sulfur does not change pH.

Are you using this for outdoor or indoor? Reason I ask is, any soil of mine that goes outside never comes back in. My indoor environment doesnt have the natural protection from multiplying pests, so once it's been outside I consider it contaminated and it stays outside.

i had tons of soil recipes that ive followed over the years, i got a master compost cert from UVM AG ..i use a mix similar to happy frog but made in vermont by a gent i went to the courses with a few yrs ago......ive been using deciduous hardwood Oak,maple,birch,beech and planting boiled rice into the root base to pick up the groves mycos....then i add it to the base mix.....(if you ask ill share)
then come spring i use a compost manure in tea and if i see anything needing addressing ferts wise i can top dress a cup of compost and seriously enjoy the results, and ultimately its easy peasey, basicly a fully mature compsted bovine, equine, and avian with old hay, spoiled silage,animal bedding etc for the composting has been the bees knees

Sunshineinabag said:

i had tons of soil recipes that ive followed over the years, i got a master compost cert from UVM AG ..i use a mix similar to happy frog but made in vermont by a gent i went to the courses with a few yrs ago......ive been using deciduous hardwood Oak,maple,birch,beech and planting boiled rice into the root base to pick up the groves mycos....then i add it to the base mix.....(if you ask ill share)
then come spring i use a compost manure in tea and if i see anything needing addressing ferts wise i can top dress a cup of compost and seriously enjoy the results, and ultimately its easy peasey, basicly a fully mature compsted bovine, equine, and avian with old hay, spoiled silage,animal bedding etc for the composting has been the bees knees

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Yes please...

Fitzera said:

Are you using this for outdoor or indoor? Reason I ask is, any soil of mine that goes outside never comes back in. My indoor environment doesnt have the natural protection from multiplying pests, so once it's been outside I consider it contaminated and it stays outside.

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I am going to have to have indoor spil separate from outdoor soil. I will reuse my old soil that has never been outside. It was originally 1/4 each part happy frog, ocean forest, peat and perlite. I can add some blood and bone meal, a small bit of aglime and azomite, maybe oyster shell, DE and cooked EWC.
That will be my indoor soil. My outdoor can have horse manure and gravel, sand and dirt.

Gypsum gives Ca IF the pH for that plant is correct. If the pH is off Gypsum merely conditions soil to drain better.
Of course it depends on the pH of yr soil in the first place how much lime is needed (like my native soil is 6 so I don't need much lime).
Oyster shells will give Ca and Epsom Salts gives Magnesium ... and yes, more lime if Peat Moss is an ingredient.
Dolomitic limestone is the go as it contains Mg as well.
Sulfur will change ph (down) but my books say this may take one year!
I use Coco to avoid peat moss which sometimes causes mould/fungus issues (and Peat Moss will acidify as time goes by necessitating further testing later in the grow).

art.spliff said:

part. One recipe calls for 7 cups gypsum and nearly 1 cup dolomitic lime per cubic yard. And 6 more cups oyster shell with almost 1 cup epsom salts? The other recipe has 27 cups of lime per cubic yard with more peat moss instead of using any coco coir.

Lime to balance peat moss or fertilizer which will become organic acids and humus, or lime to balance acid in compost with less peat and native clay alkaline soil. I'll add the bag of gypsum is at least marketed as softens soil sof-n-soil I think it says. Lime I have is in a brown paper bag with green writing 50 lb dolomitic limestone fine sand almost powder more like white beach sand raises pH calcium and magnesium. Gypsum is powder like flour calcium and sulfur does not change pH.

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