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EC/PPM guidelines for coco?
- Thread starter gardenbug
- Start date
AltarNation
Member
Great info, Snow... was just wondering if you still have that nutrient calculator excel file you included with it originally, and might you re-upload it somewhere? Your megaupload link is doa now.
If you're running Coco in a hydroponic setup, the pH should be 5.8 - 6.2 however is is best if you start low say 5.5 and let them drift upwards to about 6.4 this will allow the plants to pull everything out of you're solution they need. You're plants will pull different elements out of the solution as the pH changes. Of coarse this works best with a DTW system and a reservoir.
The.Cook
Member
Usually somewhere between 1.2 and 1.8 it's fine.
Bewere that (beside strain, age, light and so on) it also depends on your straight water ec and also on your nutes.
With Advanced Hydroponic / General hydroponics I found that 1.2 to 1.5 is good to me with almost any strain, while with canna coco (which right now I can say with no doubt are the best nutes I've ever used so far) the sweet spot it's a little bit higher at about 1.6/1.8 from seed to flush.
Hope it helps
Bye
Tc
Bewere that (beside strain, age, light and so on) it also depends on your straight water ec and also on your nutes.
With Advanced Hydroponic / General hydroponics I found that 1.2 to 1.5 is good to me with almost any strain, while with canna coco (which right now I can say with no doubt are the best nutes I've ever used so far) the sweet spot it's a little bit higher at about 1.6/1.8 from seed to flush.
Hope it helps
Bye
Tc
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Interesting The.Cook, can you explain why canna coco are the best nutrients for you? Everytime I use canna coco A+B the plants show nitrogen deficiency and in flowering stage there is the need to add PK otherwise there's a loose on yield.
Do you compensate the ratios with additives? Or just upping the concentrations will make the nutrients available in the correct levels? Even when the ratios are supposedly not correct for coco coir?
The.Cook
Member
Well, for me it's exactly the opposite: I've been using 3 part nutes in coco for quite a long time, with very good results indeed, but always with some minor issue. Also, so many variables to play with (ratio, final ec, additives and so on) made it impossible ti really understand from time to time what was causing that.
Dont get me wrong, I'm really talking about minor issues, in fact I never worried about that too much.
Than I heard someone here on icmag (noreasons maybe) talking the same and how those issues disappeared to him when he tried canna a+b
I tought I had to give it a try, so I made a complete grow with just canna a+b, 40ml+40ml every 10lt water from start to finish. No root stimulator, no pk booster, no nothing.
Simply had the best results ever. Plants were pure green all the time, no definciencies, nothing, just green healty leaves. That really impressed me, so good results with such a low effort!
Harvest was 2 weeks ago and it was great too.
Maybe it was just a like one, but I will defenitely found it out the next time
Only drawback? Two entire bottles for 4 plants under 250/400w, but in the end it's still cheaper than all those products I was using I guess, not to mention 15 euros in an entire grow it's nothing at all.
bye
Tc
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bmp420gti
Member
I run 1.2 in veg and step up as needed from the plant, flowering around 1.6 or so. ive found strains like bubba kush will take like 1.5 in veg and step up to 1.8 or 1.9 in flower.
I also find if i run anything under a 1.1 from clone they get deficient fast, house and garden nutrients.
I also find if i run anything under a 1.1 from clone they get deficient fast, house and garden nutrients.
What kind of def. Cal mag nitrogen?
GoldenSyrup
Active member
My background E.C is 0.6.
From seedling/cutting stage to being potted up to the 3ltr pot, they get 1.2 ec (time elapsed is usually around 2 weeks) then they get 1.4 e.c until I put them in the 10L pots (1 week) , and they go into the big tent under the 1860w of ceramic and I up the E.C to 1.5. (7 - 14 days)
When I flip the lights to flower the E.C is upped to 1.6 ec, and then from week 2 or 3 of flower I top out at 1.8 ec and float it here until the 7th week of flower where I drop to 1.6 ec, the next week I drop again to 1.4 ec (week 8), then the next week to 1.2 ec of flushing solution, and then 4 - 7 days plain water (week 9 on a 9 week var, I extend week 6 for longer flowering plants). The maximum E.C (1.8) varies between 1.6 - 1.8 depending on var.
As The.Cook says, this varies depending on nutrient and water type. On an water E.C of less than 0.5 I will top the E.C between 1.4 - 1.6 depending on the var.
IMO 1.8 is as high as anyone should be going in coir, I have yet to try cannabis grown at an E.C beyond 1.8 ec (via any method) that didn't smoke like it was dredged out of a pond.
From seedling/cutting stage to being potted up to the 3ltr pot, they get 1.2 ec (time elapsed is usually around 2 weeks) then they get 1.4 e.c until I put them in the 10L pots (1 week) , and they go into the big tent under the 1860w of ceramic and I up the E.C to 1.5. (7 - 14 days)
When I flip the lights to flower the E.C is upped to 1.6 ec, and then from week 2 or 3 of flower I top out at 1.8 ec and float it here until the 7th week of flower where I drop to 1.6 ec, the next week I drop again to 1.4 ec (week 8), then the next week to 1.2 ec of flushing solution, and then 4 - 7 days plain water (week 9 on a 9 week var, I extend week 6 for longer flowering plants). The maximum E.C (1.8) varies between 1.6 - 1.8 depending on var.
As The.Cook says, this varies depending on nutrient and water type. On an water E.C of less than 0.5 I will top the E.C between 1.4 - 1.6 depending on the var.
IMO 1.8 is as high as anyone should be going in coir, I have yet to try cannabis grown at an E.C beyond 1.8 ec (via any method) that didn't smoke like it was dredged out of a pond.
bmp420gti
Member
Strains seem to go mg deficient really easy under 1.2 in my experience anyway, using RO water. Supposedly H&G has a standalone mg additive coming this year too.
This is a little aged now but the guy who fried his plants did 3 horrible things and all have been stated but not why on the pest control shit.
Citric Acid can cause phytoxicity. This was what was in his Green Clean. Green cleaner also has high oil content which no doubt helped close all the stomata.
Pyrethrins can also cause phytoxicity. This is what was in his Mighty Wash.
Those two things alone in excess completely fried his shit. The battery acid fuckup with pH was enough alone to kill everything lol ;\ I hate to laugh but holy shit he messed up 3 ways badly. Hope he got things going. I also learned from his mistakes as it refreshed my memory.
This is still a thread with very good value to anyone growing coco.
Citric Acid can cause phytoxicity. This was what was in his Green Clean. Green cleaner also has high oil content which no doubt helped close all the stomata.
Pyrethrins can also cause phytoxicity. This is what was in his Mighty Wash.
Those two things alone in excess completely fried his shit. The battery acid fuckup with pH was enough alone to kill everything lol ;\ I hate to laugh but holy shit he messed up 3 ways badly. Hope he got things going. I also learned from his mistakes as it refreshed my memory.
This is still a thread with very good value to anyone growing coco.
