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Colloidal Silver Project

GrowerGoneWild

Active member
Veteran
Good job Smilley very vigorous reversed plant, its sounds like good genetics.
My poor silver apparently don't work.
Anyone know if this works with other silver ions beyond the thiosulfate ? The only one I can find here is silver fulminate ( on fireworks ) will it work ?

I havent used fulminate.

I had problems with the CS too. If you look how people are applying it you literally need to spray it 35+ times to make it work.

The STS (Sodium Thiosulfate +Silver nitrate) solution uses silver nitrate. STS only needs 2 applications min..

I've submited the STS to a chemist to understand why it works, as far as ethylene supression, but I havent got a reply yet.

I'm not saying CS isn't working.. But I had alot of trouble making it work I would rather apply STS.
 

smilley

Well-known member
Veteran
And here's the dried and separated pollen ready for packaging. I'm collecting one more batch and then I'll destroy the parent. I have every reason to believe it will be viable.

The first time I tried CS it didn't work either. It reversed the plant but no pollen was produced. The second time (documented earlier in this thread) I had to cut the sacs open to extract the pollen. This time, it was just like with a regular male except pollen production was about 15% of the regular male of the same strain.

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Tynehead Tom

Well-known member
just crackin some shiskaberry beans from ustad seeds. hopefully I find me a real nice female to try this with. havin a jar of all fem shiska seeds in my hand would truly be a eureka moment for me LOL thanx for this thread and all the pics/details, much appreciated ;)
 
It worked for me haha.
I do not know if it was the colloidal silver or silver thiosulfate which reversed.
picture.php

sorry for bad picture.
Thanks
 

Aether

Member
This is my second try at reversing a female...

If anybody has some insight or experience working with colloidal silver...


What's the science behind colloidal silver and feminized seeds?

With CS you can make a female plant create sacks, then self-pollinate and puff 95% of the seeds are female?

Why CS makes a female grow sacks? Stress reaction?
 

idiit

Active member
Veteran
i'm reversing a female "elvis" clone right now and for the first time using my cs technique the pollen is not sterile; instead, there's no pollen coming off the pollen sacs. :)

the female is loaded with pollen sacs. i'll take a picture and add it to this post. only one pollen sac yielded pollen so far.

I've successfully reversed over 5/5 times. sometimes it took two attempts. I keep back up clones. this time no pollen from the pollen sacs.


i'm going to do fem seeds for the market one day and I want to go to fem seeds for my own guerilla grows so I need to fine tune my method . i'll be staying on this pretty close.


___________________________________________________________________________________


added pics as I promised. the female is reversed and some sacs are starting to contain pollen:


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I suspect the very high cs total dissolved solid readings at 50 killed the first pollen sacs or rendered them mostly impotent/sterile. the later developing sacs are now producing the first pollen. elvis is the hardest to reverse female I've worked with so far but the trick of leaving the silver in the solution for a couple of days after unplugging to get the tds 50 reading works on later developing pollen sacs after all.
 

Siever

Active member
Veteran
Idiit,

I once had the same situation, no pollen from the sacs, but I had seeds. Apparently the sacs release pollen which are invisible.
 
Here goes nothing...Lol

Here goes nothing...Lol

:woohoo:I bought some colloidal silver at 240 ppm's; we are going to do this. 24 oz's or 3 cups of distilled water and Eight oz's or 1 cup of Colloidal Silver 240 ppm's makes 32 oz's :woohoo:or 4 cups of 60 ppm pollen making wonderfulness.
 
What's the science behind colloidal silver and feminized seeds?

With CS you can make a female plant create sacks, then self-pollinate and puff 95% of the seeds are female?

Why CS makes a female grow sacks? Stress reaction?

The science is; the colloidal silver molecule attaches to the copper molecule; finally tricking the female to produce male flowers with female pollen inside. Then when the sacks start dropping pollen; with tweezers grab all that are opening and place on top of a bud of your choice. Once the white calyx turns red and pulls in the pollen; a seed sack forms making a female seed with the female pollen.
 
The science is; the colloidal silver molecule attaches to the copper molecule; finally tricking the female to produce male flowers with female pollen inside. Then when the sacks start dropping pollen; with tweezers grab all that are opening and place on top of a bud of your choice. Once the white calyx turns red and pulls in the pollen; a seed sack forms making a female seed with the female pollen.
:)Everyone should know... "NEVER SMOKE WEED SPRAYED WITH COLLOIDAL SILVER". It is consumable but NEVER supposed to be inhaled!:biggrin:
 
:smokey:IMPORTANT! Colloidal Silver is light sensitive and should be stored in a dark bottle in a dark place at room temp.
DSCF6285.jpg
I bought a 5 oz. spritzer bottle for the application. The 60 ppm solution should be sprayed only on the nodes.
DSCF6290.jpg
Cloning the female is the best way to make your seeds. Clone 2 or 3 at and once transplanted and roots secured (1-2 weeks at 18/6) start spraying plant #1 every day for 2 weeks before switching light pattern to 12/12.
DSCF6293.jpg
I marked the branches I sprayed on mother plant. I will try it this way first then the clones after; to insure abundant seed production.
DSCF6289.jpg
:thank you:
 
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Siever

Active member
Veteran
I just found out I have 2 males between 16 plants grown from selfmade female seeds
odd
 
Colloidal Silver Project Reply

Colloidal Silver Project Reply

One week spraying 62 ppm Colloidal Silver still looking healthy no real change yet...
 

idiit

Active member
Veteran
^ start a little before the first pistils show. spray once/twice per day for a 2-3 week period. I've don't remember reversing in under 2 weeks. I spray the area where the pistils would normally show up.


getting the ppms too high can actually backfire and produce sterile pollen. 35-50 ppm has worked best for me. 35ppm's if it works is better than higher ppms as higher ppms can produce sterile pollen. the sterile pollen looks funny, not like regular pollen as it should. you want that fine yellow pollen that so many have posted pictures of.


why didn't I say 35 ppm's right off? because from my past experience hard to reverse strains won't reverse under or at 35 ppm's. elvis just got reversed after three attempts and it took over 40 ppm's to reverse her. she was the toughest to reverse strain I've worked with.


I have had easy to reverse strains reverse at 20 ppm's.


some strains clone easier and some strains reverse easier.


keep back up clones is best.


clearer solution works better than cloudy solution.


lots of variables and it changes strain to strain, cs batch to cs batch just like rooting clones can vary based on strains, etc...from my experience.
 

KateJ

Member
Just wondering....

Does anyone know the maximum ppm threshold that can be used until adverse effects are shown on the plant? For example, I'm thinking about strains that I have read about (ecsd in particular), that people say won't reverse. Would the ppm of CS be a determining factor on certain stubborn strains? Maybe a higher ppm would work better with some strains and a lower with others.My apologies if this has been answered, I am assuming that it has also been considered. I was just wondering tho.
 
^ start a little before the first pistils show. spray once/twice per day for a 2-3 week period. I've don't remember reversing in under 2 weeks. I spray the area where the pistils would normally show up.


getting the ppms too high can actually backfire and produce sterile pollen. 35-50 ppm has worked best for me. 35ppm's if it works is better than higher ppms as higher ppms can produce sterile pollen. the sterile pollen looks funny, not like regular pollen as it should. you want that fine yellow pollen that so many have posted pictures of.


why didn't I say 35 ppm's right off? because from my past experience hard to reverse strains won't reverse under or at 35 ppm's. elvis just got reversed after three attempts and it took over 40 ppm's to reverse her. she was the toughest to reverse strain I've worked with.


I have had easy to reverse strains reverse at 20 ppm's.


some strains clone easier and some strains reverse easier.


keep back up clones is best.


clearer solution works better than cloudy solution.


lots of variables and it changes strain to strain, cs batch to cs batch just like rooting clones can vary based on strains, etc...from my experience.
Okay, My friend Toker 69 used 60 on a regular basis as he discovered his 40 ppm was taking up to 40 days before sacks produced pollen. He switched to the 60 ppm and had sacks in 14 days and produced pollen by day 21-28. He had mentioned the pollen you speak of; as it is clumpy. he kept spraying until the pollen was really fine and falling out all over. He was working with Auto's at the time.
 

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