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Need DWC advice and tips

Douglas.Curtis

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Easy7 said:
How does a ph swing help a plant? Variables in nutrient absorption?
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Yes, plants evolved with a sort of storage system for hard times. Not much of one, but it does exist. The cycling of the pH causes max absorption of different nutrients, at different times. The 7-10 day target allows the plant to stock up on each element, when it's most available, and deplete the storehouse as other elements get their turn.

It's only a slight change in ppm and it allows the pH to be controlled almost exclusively with food for the plant. :)
 
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bionicchronic

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Douglas.Curtis

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
The plant in front is looking decent, the other two not so much. Is that the cable for the light hanging down? If it is, it should be tucked up out of the way, where the infra red from your light won't be heating it up.

I'd give it a few days more, with your new understanding, and see how well they perk up. :) Get them to a nice medium shade of green (by tweaking the ppm for each until they like it).

Nice roots :D
 
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chase1

Member
Get a chiller if ya can mate then as long as your on top of ph and ec ya should never have to worry about any root rot problems
I'd never run Dwc again without one
Dm zone , regen a root are two good products for running a sterile Rez
 
B

bionicchronic

chase1 said:
Get a chiller if ya can mate then as long as your on top of ph and ec ya should never have to worry about any root rot problems
I'd never run Dwc again without one
Dm zone , regen a root are two good products for running a sterile Rez
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ive been staying ontop.my temps and i use cold air from outside to cool my room. and it alsk has helped keep the temps in the low 60s highest at 68:dance013:
gonna do flood table for flower just to be safe though, cause summer (heat) is coming.
heres a pics of some lsd-25, green crack, and think big autos i grew last season under the same light, just to spice up the thread some.
 

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bionicchronic

Douglas.Curtis said:
The plant in front is looking decent, the other two not so much. Is that the cable for the light hanging down? If it is, it should be tucked up out of the way, where the infra red from your light won't be heating it up.

I'd give it a few days more, with your new understanding, and see how well they perk up. :) Get them to a nice medium shade of green (by tweaking the ppm for each until they like it).

Nice roots :D
Click to expand...
that cable hanging down is the power cable for the light. and i think i will switch to flower tuesday.
the one in the back right is accountable fir more roots than both combined. its the one i included a close up of. thanks for the compliment. i feel like they could be bigger though, like i want roots that fill the container lol. thought great white would do tht
 
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bionicchronic

plants have just about filled up my space canopy is very even. the switch to flower is nigh, im probably gonna do thd switch to flood and drain about a week into flower
 
Douglas.Curtis

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Definitely recommend any large changes be done before flower, with a few days to recover any slowdown which might happen. :)
 
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chase1

Member
Why switch to flood and drain half way through
Dwc creates different root structure than flood and drain I think it would be counter productive to change now Also when you flower your light are on for 12 hours which should be easier to cool any way an you could even have the light on at night and off in the day so you won't be fighting day time heat
 
Douglas.Curtis

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Stunting/slowing would depend on how stressful the switch is.

chase1 said:
Why switch to flood and drain half way through
Dwc creates different root structure than flood and drain I think it would be counter productive to change now Also when you flower your light are on for 12 hours which should be easier to cool any way an you could even have the light on at night and off in the day so you won't be fighting day time heat
Click to expand...
Well put. :tiphat:
 
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bionicchronic

i think im gonna take advice and stay in dwc unless i get slimed. im gonna have a flood tray on standby in case i get root rot. im gonna have an ac unit to keep the room.cool during the summer
 
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bionicchronic

roots are looking sweet!!!
now they are starting to look like i expected
 

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WelderDan

WelderDan

Well-known member
Veteran
The 2 best things I ever did using DWC was to ditch the air stones and the hydrotron and go with straight air lines and a medium-less setup.

No stones to clog, no hydrotron to clean. Simpler is definitely better. And cheaper.
 
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bionicchronic

WelderDan said:
The 2 best things I ever did using DWC was to ditch the air stones and the hydrotron and go with straight air lines and a medium-less setup.

No stones to clog, no hydrotron to clean. Simpler is definitely better. And cheaper.
Click to expand...

but dont you think the loss of stones is affecting your oxygen levels because the air isnt getting broken up into tiny bubbles?
 
Douglas.Curtis

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
bionicchronic said:
but dont you think the loss of stones is affecting your oxygen levels because the air isnt getting broken up into tiny bubbles?
Click to expand...
Yes, it definitely affects O2 levels. I use stones, quality stones which are replaced before each veg run. Minimal cost, maximum results, zero maintenance. :)
 
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bionicchronic

i flipped the hoes to flower today. i found a root on the gorilla bubble that appeared to have rotted(darker stained then the others) i barely pulled it and it came off. i took a pic too. here it is. but i still dont see any slime or smell fish. smells earthy, and the spot where the root was, was between the root zone and the wall. probably got less oxygen over there. but reguardless im gonna be adding in frozen 2liters each night. i got them set from 8 to 8 but might just change it to 9 to 9 cause it dont REALLY cool diwn outside till 9 or 10
 

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