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Sulphur issues

G

ganjygav

Hi all,
I hope everyone is well and happy thanksgiving to the USA.
I think I maybe beginning to get a sulphur deficiency,I did at 1st think maybe it was a magnesium issue but a member suggested it was sulphur and after a few minutes on Google I agree.
It's affecting 3 of 6 plants and its only just beginning so I want to nip it in the bud.
The plants tomorrow have been on 12/12 for 7 days.
They're in allmix from biobizz, I feed 1ml per litre of biobizz grow every watering and bio heaven at 2 ml per litre every 2nd watering. I water 3 times a week on average.
My temps are between 25c and 27c lights on and 20c-21c lights off.... Not sure why I'm telling ya this.
I ph everything to 6.5 and tonight I tested run off just out of curiosity and it was 5.5ph. Is that right?
I would like to know peoples opinions on what's causing the sulphur problems,I also see a thing that said to apply magnesium sulphate as a remedy but do I spray or drench and do I mix it in with my usual feeds?
I promise I did read the sticky but it wasn't specific to my problem.
I'm cautious this grow as I lost the last,here's some pictures.

Thanks for looking

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G

ganjygav

Also this is the thing I found saying to use magnesium sulphate for correcting sulphur deficiency.
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Granger2

Active member
Veteran
For S, you need sulfates. You can use Epsom Salts [MgSO4] or top dress with Gypsum [CaSO4] 1TBL/gal of medium. Good luck. -granger
 
G

ganjygav

For S, you need sulfates. You can use Epsom Salts [MgSO4] or top dress with Gypsum [CaSO4] 1TBL/gal of medium. Good luck. -granger

Cheers fella I have Epsom so will use that. Unsure if it's best to spray the leaves or drench the soil. If it's drench do I mix Epsom in with other feeds if you could tell me please. Have a good day.:tiphat:
 
G

ganjygav

Ok I just seen on another gardening website that sulphur is better absorbed through the roots as a nutrient. But magnesium is better absorbed through leaves as its faster acting that way. So maybe I should feed with added Epsom as a soil soak and the magnesium should start to kick in when I start to get the mag deficiency.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
I'd water with it, and you can mix with other nutes or not. My preference would be to give it to them w/o other nutes the first time. Good luck. -granger
 
G

ganjygav

I'd water with it, and you can mix with other nutes or not. My preference would be to give it to them w/o other nutes the first time. Good luck. -granger

Thanks,I watered the 1st 3 last night with food and Epsom and will hit the rest tonight I expect. It probably doesn't help that I'm just starting 2nd week of 12/12 and I ain't fed them any bloom yet or topmax. I was unsure of the best time to start feeding these. I found this feed schedule last night and think I'm going to follow this.

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Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
first off all mix is a pre nuted soil so thinking this plant has a sulpher issue is prolly not true.
then adding nutes every watering is also not recommended in my book.
specially when they are still small
if they get to much food they just tend to block everything comming in from nutrition.
and now you going to have problems with leave not looking okay and prolly a grower that wants to overcare for the plant.

and a other thing ...just taking runoff and measuring PH won't work when the plant is not feeling well
if you realy want to know the soils PH then you get some distilled water grab a spoon of soil (not top soil) and measure it that way,then you know the real ph of the soil!
 
G

ganjygav

first off all mix is a pre nuted soil so thinking this plant has a sulpher issue is prolly not true.
then adding nutes every watering is also not recommended in my book.
specially when they are still small
if they get to much food they just tend to block everything comming in from nutrition.
and now you going to have problems with leave not looking okay and prolly a grower that wants to overcare for the plant.

and a other thing ...just taking runoff and measuring PH won't work when the plant is not feeling well
if you realy want to know the soils PH then you get some distilled water grab a spoon of soil (not top soil) and measure it that way,then you know the real ph of the soil!

Thanks for the advice,so maybe cut my feed down to 2 out of 3 waterings?
 

oldbean

Member
High ganjygav

May I suggest a dose of blackstrap molasses? In the UK you can get them from the health shop or more conveniently, the red treacle tin in most shops will do. A teaspoon of that mixed into a little hot water then added to your water mix, pH to 6,5

Also, I use a soil pH Meter to check my soil pH, its quite accurate actually & only cost £5 from Amazon.

Peace
 
G

ganjygav

High ganjygav

May I suggest a dose of blackstrap molasses? In the UK you can get them from the health shop or more conveniently, the red treacle tin in most shops will do. A teaspoon of that mixed into a little hot water then added to your water mix, pH to 6,5

Also, I use a soil pH Meter to check my soil pH, its quite accurate actually & only cost £5 from Amazon.

Peace

I will pick some molasses up next time I'm in town. I think the chap above got it right about over feeding because some of my older and bigger leaves are a dark green but there's no burnt tips. I would like to say I do completely the opposite to over caring, I tend to under water but I've got to grips with that and my last crop I really under fed.
Also my plants were in there final pots near on 3 weeks when I switched to 12/12 with no food just root boost a couple of waterings.
I'm sure they were ready for food but like you say I was probably over doing it feeding every watering.
I will give them just Plain ph 6.5 water next time with good run off and then start feeding every other watering.
Cheers for the advice everyone :tiphat:
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Nobody is a bigger fan of MO than me, but BB is beet MO based, so I'd go very easy on cane MO. Also, forget pHing your runoff. Just make sure that you have the pH of what you water/feed with where it should be. pHing your soil is pretty well useless, too. Your using All Mix so don't worry about it. If you want an up to date feed chart, go to the BB site. I would feed at feed chart strength every other time, or at half strength every time. Feed/water to runoff. Good luck. -granger
 
I don't think you have a sulphur deficiency at all. Looks like normal new growth to me. Did you recently put those plants under a brighter light than they were under previously?
 
G

ganjygav

I don't think you have a sulphur deficiency at all. Looks like normal new growth to me. Did you recently put those plants under a brighter light than they were under previously?

Yeah they went from 400w mh to 600w hps last week. I know new growth goes lime green in 1st couple of weeks of 12/12 but these leaves even on some of the older ones look kinder stripey.
The veins are remaining dark green but the space between the veins is going a light green.
After losing last crop to lockouts I'm just extra careful this time.
Either way when I went up at lights on,the plants that had the hit of magnesium sulphate the other night look better.
In fact I took the plants out of tent and sat looking at them a few minutes and I thought to myself that my plants are looking great and I shouldn't worry too much.
These threads I made have helped no end... Well I should say the people who have taken the time to give advice have helped lol.
So now I know I was feeding too often,so I'm halving the feeding frequency.
I also know I can follow the biobizz chart without worrying.
Thanks once again people :tiphat:
 
G

ganjygav

Nobody is a bigger fan of MO than me, but BB is beet MO based, so I'd go very easy on cane MO. Also, forget pHing your runoff. Just make sure that you have the pH of what you water/feed with where it should be. pHing your soil is pretty well useless, too. Your using All Mix so don't worry about it. If you want an up to date feed chart, go to the BB site. I would feed at feed chart strength every other time, or at half strength every time. Feed/water to runoff. Good luck. -granger

I'm new to adjusting ph,never thought you had to with soil. That's probably what has been giving me all sorts of deficiencies over the last 5 or 6 grows.
So this time I brought my tester pen and ph down and everything I've put in has been between 6.4 and 6.6
Most of the time it's 6.5 but when it's a point above or under I don't bother trying to get it back to 6.5 because I've read it does the plants good to have changes within 6.3 and 6.8. I always aim for 6.5 anyway.
I only tested run off because I see other people talking about it but yeah allmix is ment to be pretty stable for ph.
Once again thanks fella
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
the problem with this is once the leaves get affected with some sort of blockoutt/deficiency
those spotts will not heal, au contraire ,they will stay affected although you might have corrected/act in a good way, so it just takes time to get the routine

once i get them into a all mix i don't give nutes untill they ask for it by that time already 3 or 4 weeks passed and that will affect that taste of the smoke in a darn good way
less = more but more is not less if you get my drift

and no BS you can even give your plants unph'd water for quite a while without consecuence
but you have to be shure you have plenty of warmth so you have evaporation of that water
 

packerfan79

Active member
Veteran
Looks hungry to me, I personally would switch to the bloom if you are 2 weeks in to flower. I had a similar problem with some auto's, I added a bit of Epsom salts and uped the feed strength. I was holding back because everyone said that autos don't like strong feed or nitrogen. Uped the feed now looking great.
 

packerfan79

Active member
Veteran
I have always used happy frog and started feeding right away. Not sure how much nutes the all mix has. I believe most prenuted soils have a small amount of nutes. if you wait 3 to 4 weeks to feed you will cost growth, and yield. it is pretty hard to lock out plants in soil unless you don't feed for long periods, or let them dry out to much.I think a big problem new growers have is being over cautious. Light green is a sign of hunger. switch to bloom, check your ec, 1.2 is where I stay mabey 1.4 if it's a heavy feeder . The biggest challenge with soil is it takes time to fix things. You can only water so much.
 
G

ganjygav

the problem with this is once the leaves get affected with some sort of blockoutt/deficiency
those spotts will not heal, au contraire ,they will stay affected although you might have corrected/act in a good way, so it just takes time to get the routine

once i get them into a all mix i don't give nutes untill they ask for it by that time already 3 or 4 weeks passed and that will affect that taste of the smoke in a darn good way
less = more but more is not less if you get my drift

and no BS you can even give your plants unph'd water for quite a while without consecuence
but you have to be shure you have plenty of warmth so you have evaporation of that water

Yeah my plants were only in final pot of allmix 2 weeks before I started to feed. I started too early really.
I've had a lot of problems with lockout and deficiency in last 5 grows,I think it came from a mix of 2 things. I wasn't feeding enough and then the ph fluctuations,with nutes mixed in my waters ph is around 6.8 but with just plain water it's 7.8-8.0. I think them differences every time I watered might have been causing the problems.
 
G

ganjygav

Looks hungry to me, I personally would switch to the bloom if you are 2 weeks in to flower. I had a similar problem with some auto's, I added a bit of Epsom salts and uped the feed strength. I was holding back because everyone said that autos don't like strong feed or nitrogen. Uped the feed now looking great.

Yeah im the 2nd week of 12/12 and they've had no bloom yet. I water my plants in groups of 3 because that's just the way they've settled into. The first 3 due water tonight will be getting what the biobizz schedule says to give them at week 2.
 
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