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Nectar for the Gods in coco, share ur schedule

phazer

Member
whats up everybody. about to try a run of nftg in coco and am wondering what strength of ppm/ec u all are using? feed everyday? ph range? i usually run 5.6 - 6.4 in coco with synths but from my understanding with these nutes u want to keep it in the 6.3-6.7 range in coco as well.
i plan on amending some plagron coco with 60/40 coco/growstones as a base, and then amend it with nftg's one shot @ 2 tb/gal of soil, along with some added kelp.
for liquid im going with. gaia,medusa,zeus,herc,athena,aphrodites and bloom khaos as a foliar. what do u all think of the demeters? since the herculean harvest is a strong source of Ca, i figure ill just go alil stronger on that. I plan on watering with a weaker nute solution once a day in 10 gal pots. lets hear ur results
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Phazer,

How did the Nectar line work out for you. I am fascinated at their line as they follow a much different strategy of NPK and Ca, that I believe in completely. I am pretty sure this is why most are having great results, but I wanted to inquire. Seems like your post didn't get much traffic.
 

Levitationofme

Active member
NTFG in Coco

NTFG in Coco

I had awesome success using the NFTG nutrients in coco.
It takes a little tweaking

I used smart Pots, If you see salts building up on them its time to flush--- Water until there is 20% runoff out the bottom. I gave all the runoff to my plants outside.

2 ways either mix a weak solution and water with it daily adding Microbe teas and SLF-100 and Mammoth P as needed Start LOW EC and move up as you can. Or


If you are watering 2x a day by hand you can alternate Water, Tea,
Nutrients over 3 days

once every 2 weeks or even every week a flush of Herculean Harvest and the Sucrose product ( I forget which name ) 1/2 or 1/3 strength

Premixed the nutrients begin to react with each other, so I was not a fan of making much up ahead of time.

Not great with drip systems. Organics get gummed up in lines.

The flushing will keep your media stable and fixes most issues.

Checking the PH of the runoff is a good idea. If it spikes hard its flush time.

I tried a few Microbe products. The Mammoth P showed me something. Im not that sure of the other products out there.
IN any case using the Tea gives plenty of microbes


Foliar Spray as directed

Once the plants are established its cake.

I went with 5.8 as starting PH which would drift up over a few days.

I added no Cal/Mag as this line is cal based.

I have a small grow I mix maybe 2 gallons at a feeding for all my plants. As they go into flower you can push the nutrition up until you see the white tips forming on leaves then back off.

I ended up alternating hand feeding myself.

I grew Tangerine Haze and it was the best bud this noob has grown to date.

I have messed with Hydro and now soil. trying out stuff to see what works best for me.

Beware some coco coir blows. You do not need a starter charge of nutrients. Added Cal/Mag is good but always rinse the crap out of
the coir. I have got various small insects and such nastiness by not
doing so.
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Levit,

Great! Thanks for the info. This line prides itself on huge calcium numbers and more P than K. With all that organic material folks are drowning in K.

Great post! Thanks!

I don't think one has to run this expensive foo foo juice, it is just convenient and works, so power to them. My issue is how to do this inexpensively using materia prima (real fertilizers).

Nectar has calcium nitrate and mono potassium phosphate, neither qualify for organic. Yes, there is organics in there, but by no means organic. I attribute the success of the line to heavy Ca and P.

With that said, if one is in a part of the world with high Ca or high P, obviously the response won't be the same. But for where they are, they can't miss.

This is where more science, using good soil analysis procedures (vs some that aren't so good) at good labs, with results that EXPLAIN why things are happening, is an absolute necessity. Wrong procedures will give a completely different road map.

Let's see if anyone else chimes in.
 

Levitationofme

Active member
Im not so concerned with being 100% organic. I like to think of it as organic as possible.

Im new to growing things. Before this I had a Black Thumb. My background is not in science, but in culinary. I haven't focused on the inner workings of the nutrients much more then while reading grow bible and such literature.

What I like about the NFTG was that it was not harsh on my plants as I figured out how to grow and how to properly use coco. Very Forgiving. I screwed it up a couple times real good. Not that I would ever be stoned while mixing my nutrients and sort of forget something or worse....

The owner of the company is accessible and I like that.

Personally I like mixing all the different bottles into a good plant brew. It gives me some Mad Scientist time.
 

peacetree420

New member
This thread seems dead but...

I have a one liter of each of the NFTG products getting ready to run a test grow vs house and garden in pure coco, hand watered in 5 gals under 8k. Ill be posting results here if theres an audience or ill start a new thread.

NFTG seems different entirely from advanced, hng and others and im excited to see what it can do.

Stay tuned.
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I am about to trash my organic soil and go coco with the base nutrients of this line... I have had such a difficult time with the whole organic paradigm (indoors) that I simply desire the simplicity of mixing two homogenized solutions of essential nutrients. I can't quite integrate the complexity and philosophy of organics... And it's just a bit impractical (IMO) for a hobby, residential indoor grower...
 

Levitationofme

Active member
I had good experience with NFTG in Coco. Now I use NFTG when my soil peters out.

I prefer to be as organic as I can. I had thought about the whole Soil Web and No till Organic thing myself. It's just a big arguement about to happen as everyone has a different idea what organic is or should be.

The basic set is great, you probably have anything else you may want to add from past grows. Seaweed Extract, Various Tea preps n such.

It wont work well in a drip system though. I hand watered.
 
Just got a sample pack from Oregons Only today... will be getting Mammoth P and SLF100 but alot of ppl are saying to use Nectar For The Gods in the new Oregons Only Soil ....?

Im using coco... but need to know if im adding all nutes that is recommended for that stage of plant life to a gallon of water each time i feed with Mammoth P and SLF100?
 

Levitationofme

Active member
Mammoth P 1 time a week. same with SLF100. If you do use Coco go with 5.8 PH even though its recommended by Scott to keep PH the same as in soil. It may be the case, but I didn't. Highly recommend you go the their website and find their usage guide. It explains much better then I.
 

petert

Member
Phazer,

How did the Nectar line work out for you. I am fascinated at their line as they follow a much different strategy of NPK and Ca, that I believe in completely. I am pretty sure this is why most are having great results, but I wanted to inquire. Seems like your post didn't get much traffic.

I've grown two summer outdoor crops using Nectar and I think I'm going to switch to a more simple method this summer. Unless I get off my lazy ass and set up a drip system.
Ive watered 100 thirty five gallon pots by hand for the last two years, so mixing the 55 gallon drums, as well as the foliar feedings was very time consuming. I didn't feel like the results were "THAT" much better for the cost and labor, over a simple EB Stone cold pressed fish hydroslate I'd used in the past.

So this year I'm getting my soil ( my own potting mix ) analyzed, getting that all dialed in and going KISS!
 

Levitationofme

Active member
I've grown two summer outdoor crops using Nectar and I think I'm going to switch to a more simple method this summer. Unless I get off my lazy ass and set up a drip system.
Ive watered 100 thirty five gallon pots by hand for the last two years, so mixing the 55 gallon drums, as well as the foliar feedings was very time consuming. I didn't feel like the results were "THAT" much better for the cost and labor, over a simple EB Stone cold pressed fish hydroslate I'd used in the past.

So this year I'm getting my soil ( my own potting mix ) analyzed, getting that all dialed in and going KISS!

HOLY SHIT! That is dedication.

I am sure it was appreciated.
 

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