Very intriguing. Can’t wait to try it, just flipped my Killer A5 5 days ago. Going to have to go be this a try for sure. I can see it being great for the smaller popcorn buds too.
Malawi Style Cob Curing.
- Thread starter Tangwena
- Start date
Very intriguing. Can’t wait to try it, just flipped my Killer A5 5 days ago. Going to have to go be this a try for sure. I can see it being great for the smaller popcorn buds too.
40degsouth
Well-known member
Thanks Tang. It’s been really interesting to read the thread and really get to understand what’s going on and relate to all the characters that have ebbed and flowed throughout. The one constant is your tutorials and easy to understand descriptions with a passion for educating everyone, without exception and here you are doing it again......bravo; but as you say theory can not replace experience.
After reading the thread l came up with a few ideas and experiments that I’d like to share and see what people think.
Instead of using a constant heat source like the yoghurt maker, I’ve put mine near the wood heater and it seems to be working, even with the fluctuations in temperature. My thoughts on this were the cobbs curing under a thatched roof and because l couldn’t find where anyone else had done it.
I’ve done quite a few different ones including some with kief to soak up the moisture from the buds. These didn’t sweat and l haven’t opened them so it’s going to be interesting to see what happens with them. I know some people will be interested to know that for the amount l put in, very little stuck to the bag and it seems to have incorporated exceptionally well.
I was also thinking that for those wishing to cobb without a vac sealer, they might have some results by adding vinegar to bicarb soda, to produce carbon dioxide, in a container and therefore push out oxygen. Moisture levels might be an issue though.
For people wanting to do larger amounts or longer cobbs, a cheap incubator might work, like the ones they hatch birds out in. I believe the more advanced models have the ability to hold relative humidity as well as temperature, within a desired range and l was thinking this might aide in better control over moisture levels for the different stages.
I also played with different brix levels in the plants to see how that effected sweats and cures given differing levels of sugars in the plant. Not having the experience though gives me no point of reference so for you more advanced cobbers it might be something interesting.
Brix levels rise at lights on or 20-30 minutes after watering, when a bit dry. Brix drops before a thunderstorm or at night.
Anyway that’s about all l came up with other than the links to tobacco curing and l was wondering if the companies add all the chemicals to produce an exact cure and product every time.
Cheers,
40
After reading the thread l came up with a few ideas and experiments that I’d like to share and see what people think.
Instead of using a constant heat source like the yoghurt maker, I’ve put mine near the wood heater and it seems to be working, even with the fluctuations in temperature. My thoughts on this were the cobbs curing under a thatched roof and because l couldn’t find where anyone else had done it.
I’ve done quite a few different ones including some with kief to soak up the moisture from the buds. These didn’t sweat and l haven’t opened them so it’s going to be interesting to see what happens with them. I know some people will be interested to know that for the amount l put in, very little stuck to the bag and it seems to have incorporated exceptionally well.
I was also thinking that for those wishing to cobb without a vac sealer, they might have some results by adding vinegar to bicarb soda, to produce carbon dioxide, in a container and therefore push out oxygen. Moisture levels might be an issue though.
For people wanting to do larger amounts or longer cobbs, a cheap incubator might work, like the ones they hatch birds out in. I believe the more advanced models have the ability to hold relative humidity as well as temperature, within a desired range and l was thinking this might aide in better control over moisture levels for the different stages.
I also played with different brix levels in the plants to see how that effected sweats and cures given differing levels of sugars in the plant. Not having the experience though gives me no point of reference so for you more advanced cobbers it might be something interesting.
Brix levels rise at lights on or 20-30 minutes after watering, when a bit dry. Brix drops before a thunderstorm or at night.
Anyway that’s about all l came up with other than the links to tobacco curing and l was wondering if the companies add all the chemicals to produce an exact cure and product every time.
Cheers,
40
Last edited:
Hi 40degrees south I cant comment on most of your post as I haven't tried any off it myself.
I think the simple methods work best though.
I worked at BAT in Zimbabwe for a while where the tobacco was cured in large sheds the smell was wonderful not like cigs at all. But they never used any chemicals just warmth and humidity.
The Malawians who made the best cobs likewise didn't have anything high tech either just warmth and humidity plus knowledge passed down through the generations.
Its best to try and reproduce those conditions as best you can using modern equipment if needed but its not that complicated when you look at it.
Use your nose and eyes its all I and my friends do and we get some great results some guys I know have a natural feel for this cure and use their own techniques to make signature cures.
I think the simple methods work best though.
I worked at BAT in Zimbabwe for a while where the tobacco was cured in large sheds the smell was wonderful not like cigs at all. But they never used any chemicals just warmth and humidity.
The Malawians who made the best cobs likewise didn't have anything high tech either just warmth and humidity plus knowledge passed down through the generations.
Its best to try and reproduce those conditions as best you can using modern equipment if needed but its not that complicated when you look at it.
Use your nose and eyes its all I and my friends do and we get some great results some guys I know have a natural feel for this cure and use their own techniques to make signature cures.
40degsouth
Well-known member
You’re right Tang, KISS is always the best but necessity is the mother of all invention. I’m off grid and l don’t believe l have the power to spare for the yoghurt maker but the fire seems to be doing the job so far. I also love experimenting, it keeps my mind lubricated. I sometimes ponder on the fact that everything around us was once someone’s thought made solid. Through my little experiments if l can add something solid to this wonderful thread, l will be extremely proud of myself.
I opened up two cobs today both very different in terms of sweats and drying, the things they both have in common are they are both off the same plant and they both share the wonderful Christmas cake smell that’s filled the house.
The kief l added has turned black and I’m getting the feeling that this particular cob will be used by a friend who has a debilitating back problem.
Cheers,
40.
I opened up two cobs today both very different in terms of sweats and drying, the things they both have in common are they are both off the same plant and they both share the wonderful Christmas cake smell that’s filled the house.
The kief l added has turned black and I’m getting the feeling that this particular cob will be used by a friend who has a debilitating back problem.
Cheers,
40.
Last edited:
Feel free to post your findings from your experiments my friend it all adds to our knowledge.
I would be interested in your thoughts on the black resin that sounds very tempting.
Also fruit cake is a common smell from well fermented cannabis and can make for good highs if the original buds were potent.
Stay high brother
mmm fruit cake cannabis !!!!
Mulange short sweat (8hrs)
Mulange short sweat (8hrs)
These Mulanje buds were dried for only 24hrs then sweated at 40c sealed in vac bags.
After sweating I left them for 24 hrs at 30c then opened the bags and dried the wet buds until the outside was dry to the touch but the inside still slightly moist.
after drying i sealed them back up to cure the smell was breathtaking sweet piney honey hashish smell.
After a month curing this will be golden brown and yellow orange colors and smell incredible words cannot describe the aroma but once you experience it there is no going back.
Mulange short sweat (8hrs)
These Mulanje buds were dried for only 24hrs then sweated at 40c sealed in vac bags.
After sweating I left them for 24 hrs at 30c then opened the bags and dried the wet buds until the outside was dry to the touch but the inside still slightly moist.
after drying i sealed them back up to cure the smell was breathtaking sweet piney honey hashish smell.
After a month curing this will be golden brown and yellow orange colors and smell incredible words cannot describe the aroma but once you experience it there is no going back.
Fruit cake slices yes it was reported to be good for mindless dancing to music by someone who never ever danced to music.
GG4 bud above the slab was what it looked like before transformation.
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hi everyone, l hope you’re all well.
Fruit cake is definitely the theme for this year with the Black Dog. The different drys and sweats have all leant heavily to this olfactory delight.
The one exception is a three day dry, that didn’t sweat, so l left it for three weeks, to see what would happen. When opened it had a powdered milk, sweet pear smell and was crumbly to the touch. The colour has darkened a bit so I’ve sealed it up to cure now.
The keif experiment is working well. The most l added was a tablespoon and the least a teaspoon. I added it into the bag after the buds, rolled it and pressed it in the bag, this works really well for me. The keif incorporated exceptionally well and only a small amount was left on the outside of the cobb and the bag. The keif itself turned from a deep golden brown to black within a couple of days and was totally dry when it was incorporated. The buds still sweated after one and two day drys. The Christmas cake smell is overwhelming so I’m unable to elaborate on any other smells the keif may have added.
I normally decarb, in a turkey bag, in the oven but if anyone can think of a way to cure cobbed, dry sift I’ll give it a go, we’ve got nothing to lose but time.
Cheers,
40.
Fruit cake is definitely the theme for this year with the Black Dog. The different drys and sweats have all leant heavily to this olfactory delight.
The one exception is a three day dry, that didn’t sweat, so l left it for three weeks, to see what would happen. When opened it had a powdered milk, sweet pear smell and was crumbly to the touch. The colour has darkened a bit so I’ve sealed it up to cure now.
The keif experiment is working well. The most l added was a tablespoon and the least a teaspoon. I added it into the bag after the buds, rolled it and pressed it in the bag, this works really well for me. The keif incorporated exceptionally well and only a small amount was left on the outside of the cobb and the bag. The keif itself turned from a deep golden brown to black within a couple of days and was totally dry when it was incorporated. The buds still sweated after one and two day drys. The Christmas cake smell is overwhelming so I’m unable to elaborate on any other smells the keif may have added.
I normally decarb, in a turkey bag, in the oven but if anyone can think of a way to cure cobbed, dry sift I’ll give it a go, we’ve got nothing to lose but time.
Cheers,
40.
Last edited:
F
Fermented
that's awesome 40degsouth....looking forward to your comments!
vanilla dutch
Active member
Interesting way to cure.kool thread
Me too brother just drying and aging in a jar you hit the nail on the head.
Look at the resin color of a jar cured bud it hasn't changed.
Cob cured resins vary from gold, amber, red orange, to caramel.
All have different effects.
tang
F
Fermented
I mostly (dry herb) vape now and I find that cobs and (dry herb) vapes don't work that well together. Even if the cobs are cut up as fine as possible, I still get way more high from smoking the same amount, I guess this is due to the denseness of the cob?
The cob I've used in the past for vaping is too moist and dense for a standard herb grinder, so I slice off fine slivers with a pair of scissors. If I made cobs that were not dense and compressed*, then I guess it would vape ok. But maybe it's not just about surface area and denseness, maybe cobs are best combusted, not vaped to get the full effects? Anyone else tried dry herb vaping with cobs?
*I cob without vacuum sealing and so there's a much finer line between developing surface mold or not having any fermenting taking place....the sweet spot of fermentation is way narrower without a sealer. I've worked out that really densely rolled cobs work best (along with close monitoring from day 3 ~ 30). If mold does occur with a very densely formed cob, then it's just on the surface that can be wiped away with a damp cloth and a fine brush (and then air dry the cob). If the cobs are loosely formed and if mold occurs, it's on all surfaces and you have to throw away the cobs. With experience though, surface mold doesn't occur, just like you don't shudder the clutch on take offs or cut your fingers off when peeling an apple once you have done it a few times.
The cob I've used in the past for vaping is too moist and dense for a standard herb grinder, so I slice off fine slivers with a pair of scissors. If I made cobs that were not dense and compressed*, then I guess it would vape ok. But maybe it's not just about surface area and denseness, maybe cobs are best combusted, not vaped to get the full effects? Anyone else tried dry herb vaping with cobs?
*I cob without vacuum sealing and so there's a much finer line between developing surface mold or not having any fermenting taking place....the sweet spot of fermentation is way narrower without a sealer. I've worked out that really densely rolled cobs work best (along with close monitoring from day 3 ~ 30). If mold does occur with a very densely formed cob, then it's just on the surface that can be wiped away with a damp cloth and a fine brush (and then air dry the cob). If the cobs are loosely formed and if mold occurs, it's on all surfaces and you have to throw away the cobs. With experience though, surface mold doesn't occur, just like you don't shudder the clutch on take offs or cut your fingers off when peeling an apple once you have done it a few times.
Last edited:
Hi brother good to see you posting here.
I tried vaping cobs before I eventually gave it away along with smoking.
I think for vaping to work you need the trichs exposed to get the full effect. I never found vaping any good at all, smoking was much more effective IMO.
Also vaping still puts crap in your lungs maybe not smoke but your lungs prefer clean air its what they were designed for after all.
I like chewing the cob over any other method, your mouth and stomach were designed to handle them.
I'm a reformed smoker much like an ex drinker, the worst pain in the ass are people who used to do it to someone who still does it.
So please forgive my prejudices against both smoking and vaping.
Mulanje cob
Mulanje cob
To get the best out of it it will need to be dried to the touch.
If you have already then just give it a month sealed up and it will be ready.
Here are some pictures of a Mulanje cob I have dried to the touch after 8hrs sweating and 1 week sealed up.
I have re sealed it to cure now for 1 month.
Before I sealed it up I chewed about 0.2g it was still green tasting but very intense and speedy.
After the month it will have matured and become more trippy. The smell is lovely floral wild honey at the moment.
By the end of 4 weeks it will have amalgamated into a solid chunk and deepened the floral smell to a hashy deep fermented fruit smell.
Mulanje cob
Have you partly dried it after the week of Cure?Now I wait patiently I guess.
To get the best out of it it will need to be dried to the touch.
If you have already then just give it a month sealed up and it will be ready.
Here are some pictures of a Mulanje cob I have dried to the touch after 8hrs sweating and 1 week sealed up.
I have re sealed it to cure now for 1 month.
Before I sealed it up I chewed about 0.2g it was still green tasting but very intense and speedy.
After the month it will have matured and become more trippy. The smell is lovely floral wild honey at the moment.
By the end of 4 weeks it will have amalgamated into a solid chunk and deepened the floral smell to a hashy deep fermented fruit smell.
