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Root Aphids...A Battle you Won't Win!

Budwhyser

Member
After fighting these things for the last 4-5 months, today I decided not to devote any more of my time, money or resources fighting a battle I seemingly will never win. With that, I'm destroying all my live plants, tossing all the soil and doing a major sterilization of my grow space.
I have tried all the organic solutions and most of the toxic as fuck chemical solutions as well to no avail.

Realistically, I 've been fighting these things for about a year, but just recently diagnose the real deal. At first, it will appear as a nutrient deficiency where you'll have yellowing leaves and weird growth, low yields. Being unsuspecting and unknowledgeable, I went to my gro-shop and each time came out with $50-100 of fucking snake oil to chase a phantom deficiency and what non-organic growers refer to as nutrient lockouts, PH issues, cal-mag deficiencies. And to make matters worse, I started recycling my soil which only multiplied the aphid colonies and carried them into my next cycle. Also, the final product of plants that are infected is different. My last grow had no odor hardly during flowering. THe buds weren't as dense, crystally or melodorous. You may also get hermies from the stress these things inflict on the plant.

Where most people fuck up is first misdiagnosing the problem as a nutrient or lockout issue. Second, they assume the flyers in the room are fungus gnats, when in fact they one of the many life cycles of the aphid population in their grow rooms. These fuckers go undiagnosed because when you ultimately see the flyers, it's too late! They come out of the root mass and grow wings when the pot becomes overpopulated so they can populate other plants in your room. Thirdly, most will buy the magic bullet cure, assume all is well because the activity dies out for a few weeks only to find later they they are back. Aphids have the perfect hiding spot deep inside of the root mass, protected by 5-20 lbs of soil where even the most heaviest of soil drenches can miss one. And thats all it takes. You miss one and weeks later, you're in the same position. They are born pregnant, and are asexual so reproduction is almost simultaneous.

And, if you don't completely wipe them out with whatever you are using, when they come back and they will, they come back resistant to whatever chemical you used.

To show how tough these things are, today as I cut down one of my girls, I notice a couple of them moving around in the soil. I took a 50/50 mixture of water and bleach and sprayed them several times. They continued moving about the pot like it was nothing. Bleach wouldn't even kill them!!!

So save time and money, make cuts of all your strains and sequester them in another area until you can toss and sterilize everything. Besides tossing all your soil, how can you sterilize your space? The only way I have found effective is with high concentrations of Ozone. Seal off the room and let the thing run full bore min of 24 hours hours, preferably 48. This will kill EVERYTHING in the room and even get in cracks and crevices that no spray bottle or rag could ever get. An hour after using Ozone, the room will be ready to occupy again

I'm sure there will be others with different opinions, this is just mine. Also, be aware that from what I have seen, there are many species and sub-species of these things. Perhaps you'll get lucky and get one that can be chemically exterminated. Just know when its time to throw in the towel and not spend hundreds upon hundreds of dollars chasing this problem...hope this helps some of you
 

Greyskull

Twice as clear as heaven and twice as loud as reas
ICMag Donor
Veteran
krunch for the win

folks need to quit being afraid and control their garden.
$20 on ebay will get a one ounce bottle.
that should be all you need

it does NOTHING but mix easily into the water in your reservior & kill motherfuckers D-E-D dead. plants are fine after application. FINE.

no more be pussies step up grab the merit 75 and be done and onto the next
 

Budwhyser

Member
If you read the merit 52 thread it has about a 50% success rate. We are all not getting the same pests. My point was now when to quit and it has nothing to do with being a pussy or a dick...
 

astartes

Member
There is no merit 52 Krunch. He's combining the strength of Imid with the staying power of the bio-fungicide into a product .............that doesn't exist.

Use Merit75WP (75% Imid) if you want to try and save the crop. If you're bent on starting over, as you said you were, then use Met52 (a bio-fungicide) to inoculate the media when transplanting in fresh clones.

OP, please understand the difference between the two products. Merging them together is going to confuse everyone, most importantly yourself.

a.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Imid (Merit, Bayer, etc., etc.) will kill most strains, however I suggest you lose the soil and grow in coco or another medium. These things come in the potting soil that you purchase. Oh, and by the way, RAs are a walk in the park compared to Broad or Cyclamen mites, or bulb mites which infect the roots and can be present with root aphids. If you are living in the country and have vegetation around your house, RAs can re-infect your plants over and over again, as they fly from outside into your garden.
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
Bud - I feel ya on the effin grow shops selling snake oil. What's the O3 gen you got? The only one I know of that'll gen enough is the big blue.

As others alluded, there are products that will knock down RAs for little $. Get you some Imid, at least 24% not the .2 % crap. Just do it in veg and then do a azamax, and back Imid and then once in flwr azamax and the SNS drench for RAs. Can't stop.

Retro - Pylon will do in the broad and cylamen mites. Not sure about the bulb mite tho. $400 a pint & makes up to 300 gallons. It's for pro's only but there is a place that'll sell it to you just the on line, or get hooked with the a commercial nursery.
 

Retardo Motabon

Seenyourmember:0
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have watched root aphids in their own way laugh at Merit 75. I've sprayed that crap directly on them, didn't even phase them. I even segregated some root aphids in a petri dish before spraying them the last time I used it so I could see if they died over the next few days. They didn't die. I used Merit 75 as dips, drenches and foliar applications; the aphids didn't care. The only thing that has really worked for me is Met52.
 

Budwhyser

Member
Bud - I feel ya on the effin grow shops selling snake oil. What's the O3 gen you got? The only one I know of that'll gen enough is the big blue.

As others alluded, there are products that will knock down RAs for little $. Get you some Imid, at least 24% not the .2 % crap. Just do it in veg and then do a azamax, and back Imid and then once in flwr azamax and the SNS drench for RAs. Can't stop.

Retro - Pylon will do in the broad and cylamen mites. Not sure about the bulb mite tho. $400 a pint & makes up to 300 gallons. It's for pro's only but there is a place that'll sell it to you just the on line, or get hooked with the a commercial nursery.

Good info. I've got 2 of the 12 inch big blues
 

Budwhyser

Member
I have watched root aphids in their own way laugh at Merit 75. I've sprayed that crap directly on them, didn't even phase them. I even segregated some root aphids in a petri dish before spraying them the last time I used it so I could see if they died over the next few days. They didn't die. I used Merit 75 as dips, drenches and foliar applications; the aphids didn't care. The only thing that has really worked for me is Met52.

RM-thanks for validating me bro. There are some strains of these things that seemingly can't be killed. I was surprised as hell that they laughed at bleach. And to me bleach should be nuclear on everything. I've got Met52 and originally used it on previously infected plants with no affect. I'm hoping that once everything is gone I pot my new clones that it will work in protecting them from new infestation. I just think at some point it's useless to keep throwing money at this thing on solutions that may or may not work. I'm sure a destroy and restart from scratch will fix it
 
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