The thing to do would be to compare a magnetic 600 with a digital one. Any heat from a ballast is lost energy. Digital ballasts are much cooler. Also system comparisons need to have the same bulb for a realistic result.
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
MED GARDEN 101
- Thread starter all messed up
- Start date
wescyber
Member
Well no all this info comes from a buddy of mine who owns one of the NorthCoast Horticulture Stores here in Humboldt. Its Actually Sunlight Supply who are doing the testing, but I was wrong in one aspect, apparently they are coming out with a digital 750 watt combo to match a new horti bulb, and its that combo that beat out normal 1000w sunlight supply lights. My buddy says hes setting a run up to see how they do so I will keep you guys informed.
-wes
-wes
600's can get hot but you can dispurse them. i use 600's so i can keep a bigger canapy. But they still GET HOT!!!! Air Cooling is a MUST unless you have AC on all the time.
Question. I have a 6 inch intake fan towards the top and a vortex 6 inch towards the other side blowing while the other is sucking... will this cause constriction in air having 2 fans in one line?
Question. I have a 6 inch intake fan towards the top and a vortex 6 inch towards the other side blowing while the other is sucking... will this cause constriction in air having 2 fans in one line?
Nape
Member
SCF said:
Well if the are lets say 300 cfm each, you will not move 600 cfm through the line. The velocity will increase and the static pressure or head will be positive at the top fan. This will increase the flow a little.
I have my fan blow into the light hood right onto the 1000w bulb and going out the top into the attic. It is an 8" can-fan. My 1000w runs so cool I can put my hand at any spot on the hood or glass. I run it 8-12" from the canopy.
geezeressa
Member
Final Project
Final Project
Here's my final project from this semester's grow class 101: 2 plants,
49.5 gm of Purple Kush (from SR-71), 10 gm trim. I left a lot of leaves on because they were covered with the prettiest crystals. Grown in Power Flower with a little FoxFarm Grow Big at the beginning. 250w light, 4" Can-Fan (178 cfm, I need a bigger fan for 316cf, no wonder I've been having heat problems!!). Maybe the buds were very airy due to temperature variations 56-80 degrees in the third week of flowering(?), but they are still covered in crystal and smell like heaven. It all turned purple the last week of flower.
Final Project
Here's my final project from this semester's grow class 101: 2 plants,
49.5 gm of Purple Kush (from SR-71), 10 gm trim. I left a lot of leaves on because they were covered with the prettiest crystals. Grown in Power Flower with a little FoxFarm Grow Big at the beginning. 250w light, 4" Can-Fan (178 cfm, I need a bigger fan for 316cf, no wonder I've been having heat problems!!). Maybe the buds were very airy due to temperature variations 56-80 degrees in the third week of flowering(?), but they are still covered in crystal and smell like heaven. It all turned purple the last week of flower.
Last edited:
G
Guest
Sounds good Geezer, a bigger yeild than mine, you go girl!
damakkus
West Coast ICer
Hi geezeressa 
whats up Dopey Taylor
not sure if you have seen mtnjohns cabinet or not but he is running 150hps with blow your mind results. Take a look http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=49829
whats up Dopey Taylor not sure if you have seen mtnjohns cabinet or not but he is running 150hps with blow your mind results. Take a look http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=49829
geezeressa
Member
Hi guys
Dopey: I got more yield: Really? But mine were all fluffy.
Damakkus: that is a really impressive thread! Thanks!
Dopey: I got more yield: Really? But mine were all fluffy.
Damakkus: that is a really impressive thread! Thanks!
Purple people eater.
Purple people eater.
Just look at those purple buds. I just had to bump those again.
BTW Damn Damakkus that thread is impressive!
Purple people eater.
geezeressa said:Here's my final project from this semester's grow class 101: 2 plants,
49.5 gm of Purple Kush (from SR-71), 10 gm trim. I left a lot of leaves on because they were covered with the prettiest crystals. Grown in Power Flower with a little FoxFarm Grow Big at the beginning. 250w light, 4" Can-Fan (178 cfm, I need a bigger fan for 316cf, no wonder I've been having heat problems!!). Maybe the buds were very airy due to temperature variations 56-80 degrees in the third week of flowering(?), but they are still covered in crystal and smell like heaven. It all turned purple the last week of flower.
Just look at those purple buds. I just had to bump those again.
BTW Damn Damakkus that thread is impressive!
damakkus
West Coast ICer
Hey scrappy
All the credit goes to mtnjohn. He put his heart into that cabinet and I have the utmost respect for the guy. He is more than happy to help as you are. Good peeps you know.
Scrappy, I got a question for you. Honestly, I dont know how to ask it and need to kind of explain it if you will. I grow hydroponically, flood and drain, very simple for me with the low maintenace. I use 2 x 4 flood trays and chose a reservoir to some what match that to be able to flood it. Now my question involves nutrient feeding, and I beleive the reservoir size and amount of plants have a lot to do with my complex question.
The reservoir I chose is just one that fit, it is approx 20 gal capacity but I always set it for 15 gallons. I make 15 gallons of nutes a week. But now, here we go, what if I had a 40 gal res and mixed 30 gal of nutes a week for the same exact tray of plants.
I think there is a key point that has not been discussed in this area. If you can follow my thinking, the smaller body of water set to the same ppm will show deficiency much sooner before the larger body of water. Thus you would need to be able to match your res size to your plant size amount etc to maintain a ppm level that does not cause a deficiency during that weeks period for that size body of water. I am a little stoned so I hope you can follow me.
My question is how do we properly feed using a flood and drain? If I use a 15 gal body of nutes where my ppms start at 800 ppms and drop off 50 ppms a day, Or what if I use a 30 gal body of nutes where my ppms start at 800 and drop only 10 ppms a day. What would you want to use? Which size is right and how much nutes do you really want to use. My thinking tells me there is something key right in this area and cant pin point it. But I have been running into over and now under feeding. I want to learn how to feed just right.
I hope you can follow my strange question and bented mind LOL
All the credit goes to mtnjohn. He put his heart into that cabinet and I have the utmost respect for the guy. He is more than happy to help as you are. Good peeps you know.
Scrappy, I got a question for you. Honestly, I dont know how to ask it and need to kind of explain it if you will. I grow hydroponically, flood and drain, very simple for me with the low maintenace. I use 2 x 4 flood trays and chose a reservoir to some what match that to be able to flood it. Now my question involves nutrient feeding, and I beleive the reservoir size and amount of plants have a lot to do with my complex question.
The reservoir I chose is just one that fit, it is approx 20 gal capacity but I always set it for 15 gallons. I make 15 gallons of nutes a week. But now, here we go, what if I had a 40 gal res and mixed 30 gal of nutes a week for the same exact tray of plants.
I think there is a key point that has not been discussed in this area. If you can follow my thinking, the smaller body of water set to the same ppm will show deficiency much sooner before the larger body of water. Thus you would need to be able to match your res size to your plant size amount etc to maintain a ppm level that does not cause a deficiency during that weeks period for that size body of water. I am a little stoned so I hope you can follow me.
My question is how do we properly feed using a flood and drain? If I use a 15 gal body of nutes where my ppms start at 800 ppms and drop off 50 ppms a day, Or what if I use a 30 gal body of nutes where my ppms start at 800 and drop only 10 ppms a day. What would you want to use? Which size is right and how much nutes do you really want to use. My thinking tells me there is something key right in this area and cant pin point it. But I have been running into over and now under feeding. I want to learn how to feed just right.
I hope you can follow my strange question and bented mind LOL
Have you ever walked on a beach after a storm? You will see a line of debris at the high tide mark. With ebb and flood you get a high tide mark of salt buildup wich affects taste. Ebb and flood is very easy but some nutrients are wasted and with high ppm's burn is more likely. I'm not saying don't do it but understand it can be fine tuned by manually flushing your media with ph'd water from the top. This leads me to my next point. Ebb and flood systems can easily be converted to a top drip system. Drip is the easiest, most efficient and most natural for a plant. In nature, water crosses the roots from top to bottom, not from the bottom up to a line encrusted with salt. I have to say, ebb and flood is ok for vegging but eventually, you want to convert to drip.
Next, drip uses the nutrients more efficiently. I bet if you converted the smaller reservoir, it would work fine but you should try that first. If the plants use it up, you could always get a larger tub.
Next, nitrogen is GONE in six days. I was told this by the chemist at General Hydro. Usually people dont change the reservoir fast enough. I do it every six days. Otherwise the plants get deficient.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drip_irrigation
Next, drip uses the nutrients more efficiently. I bet if you converted the smaller reservoir, it would work fine but you should try that first. If the plants use it up, you could always get a larger tub.
Next, nitrogen is GONE in six days. I was told this by the chemist at General Hydro. Usually people dont change the reservoir fast enough. I do it every six days. Otherwise the plants get deficient.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drip_irrigation
G
Guest
I used toi grow in 2 litre soda bottles. My plants would sometimes finish slowly and be left chemy tasting. Purple strains never pick up the chemy taste, and if they do it's masked or something. The purple kush I grew last taste divine, and most purples taste good. The skunk grown next to it picked up an organic chemy taste like roots in water, if that makes sense.
So this grow I'm in 7" pots on a flood table in hydroton. I'll still use the soda bottles in the veg room. It's easy to transplant in hydroton. But I'm giving serious thought to converting to drip, as mentioned it's an easy modification.
In a drip system does my pump run all the time or can I just flood it every couple of hours?
So this grow I'm in 7" pots on a flood table in hydroton. I'll still use the soda bottles in the veg room. It's easy to transplant in hydroton. But I'm giving serious thought to converting to drip, as mentioned it's an easy modification.
In a drip system does my pump run all the time or can I just flood it every couple of hours?
Yes but I use bud finishers like gravity and resin hancers like purple maxx but I've grown just as nice of buds without them. Those products gave the buds extreme bag appeal but I bet yours are tasting better in dirt, other than the purple strains. In hydro with a res change it's like changing the soil around your plant to a perfectly balanced diet to the phase it's in. My garden has always made buds the size of Arizona Ice tea cans but with the new bushmaster products they are indeed tighter and more of a commercial bag appeal is present.
Dopey Taylor said:
once in a while depending on how hot the room is. A cool room twice-maybe three times a day for like 2-3 minutes. A hot rrom like 4-5 times a day at 3-5 minutes. It also depends on container size too.
G
Guest
A bigger reservoir will buffer changes, since the plants processing a given volume of fluid will effect a smaller percentage of the whole mix. It's kind of a losing game at some point, though, since you don't want to have to buy a gallon of nutrients for each change.
Also, I can attest to the 6 day nutrient limit. I was changing my nutrients every two weeks (I have an aero system with a 15 gallon reservoir), but was having problems with strange uptake in the second week.
I had the opportunity to talk to scrappy about it at Harborside a few weeks back, and he suggested changing them every 6 days. Well, I'm disorganized, so I'm doing it every weekend, since that's easy to remember. I have noticed a huge change in how much I need to fight with the PH, and the plants' growth reflects that. It's made a huge difference.
Also, I can attest to the 6 day nutrient limit. I was changing my nutrients every two weeks (I have an aero system with a 15 gallon reservoir), but was having problems with strange uptake in the second week.
I had the opportunity to talk to scrappy about it at Harborside a few weeks back, and he suggested changing them every 6 days. Well, I'm disorganized, so I'm doing it every weekend, since that's easy to remember. I have noticed a huge change in how much I need to fight with the PH, and the plants' growth reflects that. It's made a huge difference.
Scuba Duba
Member
scrappy420 said:
I know that you run in soil. And I believe you said that you feed AN Nutrients for flower, alternating between nutrients one day and water the next, correct?
Questions:
If I were to run in soil and feed 3 or more times per day, would each addition be the same for a given day. (ie would one day be nutes for all three feedings and the next be water for all three feedings.) I ask because I have friends that will nute 2-3 times per day, followed by ph'd water for a final daily feeding (flush?).
Would the feeding schedule change for coco coir?
And just to be sure, in your opinion, what temperature ranges would be required to meet the definition of a hot and cool room?
Scrappy, you are truly one of the many foundations that form this board. Thanks!
I should have said, full strength for rockwool or coco and with soil half strength.
cool 65-75
hot 80-90
above 76 degrees water loses oxygen. This is a killer for hydro. Above 95 degrees or so photosynthesis stops and your electric bill is a study in wasted energy.
I hope this helps. I haven't slept in days. My lady has morning sickness and is screaming to get off the computer. By for now.
cool 65-75
hot 80-90
above 76 degrees water loses oxygen. This is a killer for hydro. Above 95 degrees or so photosynthesis stops and your electric bill is a study in wasted energy.
I hope this helps. I haven't slept in days. My lady has morning sickness and is screaming to get off the computer. By for now.
damakkus
West Coast ICer
thinmac said:
thinmac you may have followed my question better. I am not sure But I think my question is difficult. Going to a drip system would just be running from the problem and I am sure the same exact problem would exist with drip. Have never run drip and dont care too.
I run an aeroponic system as well with only 2 gallons of water with stellar results. I could build the same exact unit with a 50 gallon res. What would happen? What would be the difference? Seriously think about it. If I gave a plant the correct feeding level needed and maintained that level no matter how small or large the body of water you will have the same results. Just the smaller body of water would show signs of deficiency way before the 50 gal res ever would. Thus deficiency before nute change on the 2 gal res. If one could figure out the feeding vs amount of plants, body of water and a few other things I beleive it would help eliminate deficiencys.
The water is only doing certain functions, there is no rule on how much or how little water you need. But I will tell you from my experience that I can run an entire flowering cycle without changing nutes once.
It is just a complicated hypothesis I have. I know for a fact I am on to something peeps have not taken heed of.
damakkus said:
1. So use less nutrients with drip and save money?
2. When you change your oil you drain the old stuff first, right?
3. Trust me, they do. I'm not flaming just trying to help. If nothing else, use a larger reservoir so the drop is slower. I used to laugh at drip untill I got way better results with way better taste. Peace.
G
Guest
I think you'd still need to change your nutrients with a larger res, just less often. I mean, the plants are still pumping out waste ions so that they can pump in the nutrients. I mean, yeah, if you had a swimming pool for a res that'd be one thing, but that would get very unreasonable very quickly. Plus, you'd have to change it to flush even then.
How come you don't want to use a drip system? I like my aero rig a lot, but I think it'd be a pain in the ass if it were much bigger. Drip always seemed to me to be the way to go if you're growing in rockwool. I've never run a drip system myself, though, so I might be missing something.
Edited to add:
If it's not muddying the waters further, I've got a question. I'm switching from a 125 watt CFL to a 250 watt HPS on my garden. What is the maximum temperature I can have at the topmost leaves? I don't want to put my new light too close, but I want to put it as close as I can.
How come you don't want to use a drip system? I like my aero rig a lot, but I think it'd be a pain in the ass if it were much bigger. Drip always seemed to me to be the way to go if you're growing in rockwool. I've never run a drip system myself, though, so I might be missing something.
Edited to add:
If it's not muddying the waters further, I've got a question. I'm switching from a 125 watt CFL to a 250 watt HPS on my garden. What is the maximum temperature I can have at the topmost leaves? I don't want to put my new light too close, but I want to put it as close as I can.
Last edited:
damakkus
West Coast ICer
Scrappy you are missing the point brotha. Its not about drip, aero, flood n drain but how the plant eats. What the plant eats and doesnt eat. There is a balance that needs to be found with volume of plants, consumption of plants, water volume, etc.
Man, I should have hit you up at the grow class but didnt want to prevent other peeps from their questions. It is just so difficult for me to lay my thoughts down into words you know.
I cant go to drip either. If I had to tell the wife I had to buy more shit, I dont even want to go there. I dont have the desire to do drip though. I would rather jump into DWC. But for the time being I am going to stick with my thoughts and hopefully they will come to words so I can better ask the questions.
Thanks for your time and listening.
Man, I should have hit you up at the grow class but didnt want to prevent other peeps from their questions. It is just so difficult for me to lay my thoughts down into words you know.
I cant go to drip either. If I had to tell the wife I had to buy more shit, I dont even want to go there. I dont have the desire to do drip though. I would rather jump into DWC. But for the time being I am going to stick with my thoughts and hopefully they will come to words so I can better ask the questions.
Thanks for your time and listening.
Latest posts
-
Alec Baldwin to be charged with involuntary manslaughter over “Rust” death- Latest: zachrockbadenof
-
-
-
-
Latest posts
-
Alec Baldwin to be charged with involuntary manslaughter over “Rust” death
- Latest: zachrockbadenof
-
-
-
-
