Grafting Development

Big Eggy said:

Im on for the ride!!

Very interesting.. I've always dreamed of a "Family Tree" style bonsai mother with four difffent stains, sadly indoor growing is on hold for the next 18 years while my kids grow up.

Im guessing that T-Budding would be too fidily to work for MJ but whip/tounge grafting would surley be a good start???

it's all about exposing the maximum amount of cambian tissue to each plant.. I'm sure grafting tape would also be a good investment.

Eggy

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Doobieduck said:

I was trying to graft to Hops and outdoors in the hot summer temps.

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Grafting Tomatoes

Why Graft A Tomato Plant?

If you prefer the taste of heirloom tomatoes, you know there's no going back to
most of the disease-resistant hybrids. But those hybrids grow so nicely. So take
advantage of that! Use them as the rootstock.

List of Materials
Heirloom tomato plant
Disease-resistant tomato plant
Gallon pot
Potting soil

4 stakes: These will protect the tomato from the plastic bag, so they should be about 6" taller than the grafted plant .

Clear plastic bag: This will cover the grafted plant and part of the gallon
pot. It should be at least 6" taller than the plant, and wide enough to
surround the plant without bending the leaves, as well as to go over the pot.

Razor blade or grafting knife
Rubber band large enough to go around gallon pot without effort

2 rubber bands or equivalent, very soft, 6" long: These will be used to tie
the graft union together, so they must be so soft that they can hold the
pieces together without bruising the stems. Cut the rubber bands once to
unloop them.

4 wire plant ties at least 6" long.


Choosing Which Plants To Use

Select a healthy heirloom at least 6" tall. You will cut it so you have about 4"
of stem on the cutting.

Choose a disease-resistant variety that grows really well in your site. Select a
tall, robust plant. At a height of at least 6", preferably more, the rootstock
plant's stem should be the same diameter as that of your heirloom's join point.

Note: I grow only indeterminate tomatoes, and I've always used indeterminate
plants for rootstocks. I have not tried using cherry tomatoes. I'd like to hear
about results using other kinds.


Key Ideas

You want to put an heirloom cutting with about 4" of stem onto a
disease-resistant rootstock, and you want the graft union to be high enough so
that there's rootstock stem to bury afterward. You want the diameters of the two
stems to be the same at the graft union. (This is where the two pieces are
joined.)

The two grafted pieces must be gently but firmly touching at all times. The two
pieces must not move, dry out, or get cold. The pieces must start off in optimal
condition.

When you plant the grafted tomato, no part of the heirloom should touch the soil
or mulch.


How To Go About It

Soak both plants for an hour.
Repot the rootstock in the gallon pot. Do not bury any of the stem.
Note the diameter of your heirloom at its join point, where you'll cut it.
Find the matching diameter on your rootstock.
At the leaf node just above the rootstock's join point, chop off the top of
the plant.

With the razor blade or knife, cut the top of the rootstock's stem into a V
shape. Begin the downward cut from the side of the stem. Make the cuts meet
cleanly in the middle of the stem. The angle of the two cuts should be around
20 degrees.

With the razor blade or knife, cut the heirloom's stem so that it exactly
fills the space in the rootstock's stem.

Position a stake so that the two pieces are perfectly aligned. Fit the two
pieces together, and tie them to the stake.

Wrap a soft rubber band very gently around the join and tie it. Use two if
necessary.

Poke three stakes into the outer edge of the gallon pot so that they prevent
the plastic bag from bending the plant's leaves.

Water the plant.

Put the plastic bag over the stakes and plant. Fasten it onto the gallon pot
with the big rubber band, by moving the rubber band up from the bottom of the
pot.

Put the plant in indirect light, where it's at least 65 degrees, and there is
no wind. Keep it there until you see new growth from the top. Do not let the
soil dry out.

Do not allow any growth from below the graft union.

When the grafted plant is growing, gradually remove the plastic bag over
several days. Begin by unfastening the bottom of the bag and leaving a space
between it and the pot.

If the top shows signs of wilting, put the bag back.

Remove the rubber band when the graft is established. The tops of the
rootstock will tend to splay apart if given the chance, so be sure there's new
tissue in the gap.

Gradually acclimate the grafted plant to full sun, over a few days.
When the graft is strong and acclimated, plant it out. Do not allow any part
of the heirloom to touch soil or mulch.

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foomar said:

Straight graft was once common practice with tomatoes , virus resistant rootstock .

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Also in my 1 flowering experiment, the scion still produced a bud that looked, smelled, and smoked like the donor, and not the host.

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