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Butane/Propane Mix

H

HWY36

Member
Recently started running a blend anywhere from 50/50 to 70/30 butane/propane. I've noticed the slabs have a distinct smell to them.They look great and see through but don't smell like the strain the way they did when I ran 100% butane. The gas is n-propane (n-butane too).
When we distilled the propane the water bath was definitely warm. I just came across a thread saying the water in the bath should be cool when distilling. Question:

1) What temp should water bath be when distilling propane?
2) What undesirables might I have picked up using too warm of water; is that potentially the reason for the smell or does propane shatter just smell different?
3) What do I do with the current blend in the recovery tank?
 
Gray Wolf

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HWY36 said:
Recently started running a blend anywhere from 50/50 to 70/30 butane/propane. I've noticed the slabs have a distinct smell to them.They look great and see through but don't smell like the strain the way they did when I ran 100% butane. The gas is n-propane (n-butane too).
When we distilled the propane the water bath was definitely warm. I just came across a thread saying the water in the bath should be cool when distilling. Question:

1) What temp should water bath be when distilling propane?
2) What undesirables might I have picked up using too warm of water; is that potentially the reason for the smell or does propane shatter just smell different?
3) What do I do with the current blend in the recovery tank?
Click to expand...

It isn't about propane, it is about heavier molecules like pentane, hexane, heptane, etc. I typically use 70F with a max of 85F. I would do it even lower but it takes for ever. Pentane boils around 100F.

Propane shatter is not as aromatic as butane and mystery oils add their own odors.

I would re distill what is in the tank and flush the tank before reusing it.
 
O

Old Gold

Active member
Empty it completely, backfill with N2, empty it again, vacuum it down.
Then bring it back to atmospheric pressure, take the valve off, and clean the inside of the tank. Pressure test it after re-assembly, and make sure it's dry and vacuumed before filling back up.
 
H

HWY36

Member
Old Gold said:
Empty it completely, backfill with N2, empty it again, vacuum it down.
Then bring it back to atmospheric pressure, take the valve off, and clean the inside of the tank. Pressure test it after re-assembly, and make sure it's dry and vacuumed before filling back up.
Click to expand...

I assume the backfill with n2 is to absorb moisture but what is the reason for vacuuming it down after that?
 
O

Old Gold

Active member
HWY36 said:
I assume the backfill with n2 is to absorb moisture but what is the reason for vacuuming it down after that?
Click to expand...

You really don't HAVE to do the N2 backfill and vacuum - it's just a suggestion to ensure there is no flammable gas present, as well as being a general, safe procedure.
 
H

HWY36

Member
Old Gold said:
You really don't HAVE to do the N2 backfill and vacuum - it's just a suggestion to ensure there is no flammable gas present, as well as being a general, safe procedure.
Click to expand...

10-4. I'm interested in the N2 backfill, i've never tried it. Been thinking about it on some of my crumble in the ovens that I suspect have moisture.
 
Gray Wolf

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HWY36 said:
I concur, that is indeed, one answer ;)

I noticed my slabs last night had a redish tint to them. Is that indicative of hectane or one of the other byproducts aforementioned?
Click to expand...

Perhaps more indicative of anthro cyanin pigments??

What was your butane source?
 
Gray Wolf

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HWY36 said:
Is there a way to avoid anthro cyanin pigments?
Click to expand...

The are a C-30 sized molecule, which we typically minimize by extracting at subzero temperatures and by using propane/butane mixes.
 
H

HWY36

Member
Gray Wolf said:
The are a C-30 sized molecule, which we typically minimize by extracting at subzero temperatures and by using propane/butane mixes.
Click to expand...

We use a propane/butane mix that is run through a 25 ft coil in dry ice with alcohol. Am i defeating the purpose of the sub zero temps by soaking the columns for a couple minutes? We've only just started doing that after noticing trichome heads still intact after runs.

GW, I saw another thread of your's where you mention column chromatography, a Kugelrohr and a terp trommel to remove antrocyanins. Is there a link to find more info on this or am I getting to deep in the weeds? Thank you for all your help.
 
Gray Wolf

Gray Wolf

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HWY36 said:
We use a propane/butane mix that is run through a 25 ft coil in dry ice with alcohol. Am i defeating the purpose of the sub zero temps by soaking the columns for a couple minutes? We've only just started doing that after noticing trichome heads still intact after runs.

GW, I saw another thread of your's where you mention column chromatography, a Kugelrohr and a terp trommel to remove antrocyanins. Is there a link to find more info on this or am I getting to deep in the weeds? Thank you for all your help.
Click to expand...

For highest quality, we freeze the material first, and use subzero LPG mix, passing it through the top without a soak.

For best efficiency and yield, we flood from the bottom about two volumes, and then rinse about a volume from the top. We don't soak at all, other than the column is full, so the material is soaking during the bottom floods, even though the solvent is flowing.

Those are average cycles, and except for the automated Terpenators, we control the actual times by watching the color and clarity of the LPG passing through the sight glass.

You are getting into at least the tall weeds with short path fractional distillation. That involves winterizing the material and then heating it through the 180C to 250C range under about 20 microns vacuum, and distilling off the individual fractions as their boiling points are reached.

Typically the Mono and sesquiterpenes start to come off first around 180C, with the targeted Diterpenes and terpenoids starting to come off around 200C, and anything left after around 220/250C is left behind in the boiling flask.

Short path refers to the short distance the vapors travel before being condensed out, and is critical because the vapors condense easily and clog long passageways.

Solly no links to any of those experiments. I played with a Kugelrohr with a Welch 1405 pump attached, but Pharmer Joe built the current short path system and the Trommel molecular still was also his creation. As I have non disclosure agreements in place with him, I'm limited in what I can share on those systems, but if you write me at graywolf@skunkpharmreseardh.com, I will connect you with him and you can pick his keen alleged fine minds on the subject.
 
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