songs increase your plant count exponentialy ... alot of work... although u can flip-em faster big plants still yield more imo, even with an extra week or two of veg.smurfin'herb said:
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10 GRAND, 10 LIGHTS, NO TIME!
- Thread starter smurfin'herb
- Start date
pico said:I will have to chime in and disagree there. I regularly do large SCROG grows with 8-12 lights and find it the easiest and best way to get consistent yields. Plus if you are doing a large scale grow then SOG will put you way over the 100 plant mark. I can do 12 lights easy with under 100.
nice scrog. thats the diff between scrog and sog. i can see your plants are big and you trained them well to fill the canopy.
vs 80 small 10 inch tall plants.
O
ogatec
i was going to let it go, but thats simply not true. its true that plant counts affect yield up to a certain point. as long as you stay in a certain range of plant numbers. too many plants they dont have room to grow, not enuff plants and you need too much veg time to fill your space. so we do agree on that point.
but, the MAIN factor effecting yields is how much light you give your plants. not plant numbers. theres no majic bullet that will make 37.5 watts/sqft yield more than 67 watts/sqft with the same wattage ...
so why not make a really big light mover with the same 1200w. lets say 16ft long & pack it with 2x as many plants as the 4x8, by your estimation yields should increase? i think not.
i guess you could make the same argument back to me with lights wattage, 4k over a 3x6 wont yield that much more than 2k because there is a sweet spot in between plant numbers, light, and space used.
what i am saying is 50-70w/sqft is optimal, 37.5 isnt, & the extra space btw a 3x6 & a 4x8 & extra plant numbers wont make up for that.
in the end i really think we are pissing over a few oz here either way. what the main issue with lower watt/sqft is the quality of the end product. lower light levels=less quality.
but, the MAIN factor effecting yields is how much light you give your plants. not plant numbers. theres no majic bullet that will make 37.5 watts/sqft yield more than 67 watts/sqft with the same wattage ...
so why not make a really big light mover with the same 1200w. lets say 16ft long & pack it with 2x as many plants as the 4x8, by your estimation yields should increase? i think not.
i guess you could make the same argument back to me with lights wattage, 4k over a 3x6 wont yield that much more than 2k because there is a sweet spot in between plant numbers, light, and space used.
what i am saying is 50-70w/sqft is optimal, 37.5 isnt, & the extra space btw a 3x6 & a 4x8 & extra plant numbers wont make up for that.
in the end i really think we are pissing over a few oz here either way. what the main issue with lower watt/sqft is the quality of the end product. lower light levels=less quality.
digi 600's in daystar a/c's??smurfin'herb said:
are you copying me? thats ok, they work great!
i dont think that stanley is going to be enough to cool more then 2 lights. ive got a 6" 300cfm+ on 3 hoods(2 600hps 1 1k mh)and its barly holding its own.
ogatec said:
why would you move the light off of the plant.. thats taking your 73 w/sqft and making back into 30 w/sqft......
your first part about moderation between numbers/size is DEAD-ON...
ime movers cause too much strech, and a 600(hood bulb/bal) is a tad more then just the mover (ime, could be off)
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Im using a stanley for my other spot with 2 600's. not this grow.
Im not moving light off the plant, im just dispersing it more evenly, and i wouldnt be reducing the w/sqft (in a sense) especially since you can place the lights closer when on a mover. But u say to that, since the light is not constantly on all plants at once, that the overall w/sqft might be reduced. It is! BUT, there have been studies that say plants do not need that specific light intensity (50 w/sqft) all the time to produce
good yields. What i read stated that they had tested diff. combos of off and on periods with 2 lights under the same table, and the one that showed the most similar yield to the control (control was under 2 lights on all 12 hrs) was when they "flip flopped" 2 lights over a table, turning one off and one on in a switching pattern every two hrs! pretty much a light mover! I forget where i read it tho, it wasnt on here i dont think. Kinda proves my statement bout photons. Good conversation!
Im not moving light off the plant, im just dispersing it more evenly, and i wouldnt be reducing the w/sqft (in a sense) especially since you can place the lights closer when on a mover. But u say to that, since the light is not constantly on all plants at once, that the overall w/sqft might be reduced. It is! BUT, there have been studies that say plants do not need that specific light intensity (50 w/sqft) all the time to produce
good yields. What i read stated that they had tested diff. combos of off and on periods with 2 lights under the same table, and the one that showed the most similar yield to the control (control was under 2 lights on all 12 hrs) was when they "flip flopped" 2 lights over a table, turning one off and one on in a switching pattern every two hrs! pretty much a light mover! I forget where i read it tho, it wasnt on here i dont think. Kinda proves my statement bout photons. Good conversation!
ive herd about this...smurfin'herb said:
but its a fine line between optimum and sub-par lighting...
some people do what your saying about flipping between lights..
most crops ive seen on here with movers are poorly executed and strech alot..you could pull it off... why not just place more distace between lights and have them a tad higher. more spread...
Ok i went thru hell to get these pics on here since i had to buy camera batts, then download the software, then upload the photos the program, and then transfer and upload them to icmag!!!! 2hrs! oh well. Heres some pics of some recent stuff.
Some may look weird with lines in the pics, but thats only cuz i setup my vidcam and took pics with my camera at the tv! lol came out halfway decent tho.
Some may look weird with lines in the pics, but thats only cuz i setup my vidcam and took pics with my camera at the tv! lol came out halfway decent tho.
GorillaGreenz
Member
Looking good man.
An old but suuuper vigorous mom i ended up flowering(in 3 gal in pic)
Ok now i realllly could use some solid basic info on drip systems without actual drippers, but just open ended spaghetti lines (so i dont have to worry about them clogging as often is the plan). I have no experience with this method and would appreciate any tips or links(on this site) that you could steer me towards. The one main thing im not understanding is...if i dont use dripper heads, then how do i regulate the pressure so that each plant gets the same amt, of water? drippers are pressure regulated right? or are the barbs and tees regulated?or both? please somebody! lil help here. thx
Ok now i realllly could use some solid basic info on drip systems without actual drippers, but just open ended spaghetti lines (so i dont have to worry about them clogging as often is the plan). I have no experience with this method and would appreciate any tips or links(on this site) that you could steer me towards. The one main thing im not understanding is...if i dont use dripper heads, then how do i regulate the pressure so that each plant gets the same amt, of water? drippers are pressure regulated right? or are the barbs and tees regulated?or both? please somebody! lil help here. thx
Thanks celcius! Hey pico how big of a pump do u think i would need if i used your design and expanded it to fit a 4x8 with 30 plants in 2 gal?ALSO, my table sits below my res, so what do i need to get to prevent siphoning/gravity/pressure of the water from going thru the system when not in use? (if the system is not using drippers..just open ended spaghetti lines.) thx
Y
yamaha_1fan
All I can say if you are setting up a house for a grow, you might as well go balls out.
You also mentioned you previously grew. I would run the same setup and just expand it. No need to reinvent the wheel.
You also mentioned you previously grew. I would run the same setup and just expand it. No need to reinvent the wheel.
well you see, I used to do it in bcuzz coco, but i dont want the mess and chore of transplant when i can use blocks and slabs. I also used to handwater, but with this many plants, i wouldnt wanna do that, so i need to drip. Everything else, i could replicate and expand i guess..
If I were you I would go ebb and flow with coco pots. I stopped dripping because it was a pain in the ass. If you read my thread you might get my pump size, but I don't remember off the top of my head. It is going to depend more on how many drip lines you use rather than 3x6 vs 4x8 table.
Why was dripping a pain in the ass? u werent using drip heads or barb connectors (right?) so i wouldnt think clogging was on an issue..
it looks like Ebb and flow uses too much water, and plus i would be recirculatiing if i did that, and i have no prior experience in recirc. sytems. I need to be able to leave for 2-3 days on end, so if ph needed adjusted, then i wouldnt be there to do it. I need a run to waste setup, so that ph can be more stable.
it looks like Ebb and flow uses too much water, and plus i would be recirculatiing if i did that, and i have no prior experience in recirc. sytems. I need to be able to leave for 2-3 days on end, so if ph needed adjusted, then i wouldnt be there to do it. I need a run to waste setup, so that ph can be more stable.
Drip was becoming a pain in the ass because as the plants grew the lines would get moved around and would fall out of the pot or something. Stuff doesn't get as evenly wet at ebb and flow. Water usage is probably pretty similar between ebb/flow and drip. If you are using the right set of nutrients your pH will be plenty stable. I use House and Garden Van De Zwaan nutrients now and stopped checking/adjusting my pH completely. No need with a good nute like H&G Aqua Flakes, that stuff is designed for recirculating systems. Even GH 3 part or FloraNova are going to be pH stable.
Y
yamaha_1fan
I run GH 3 part with their Kool Bloom. Very easy, the PH stays in check and rarely adjust. I use 200 gallons per 4x11 table and I never run out of water.
I dont know why so many people are telling you, you cant leave your grow for 3 days. I would be fearful of maybe a blown lamp, failed water pump, etc but not nutrients or PH. Even a failed water pump isnt catastrophic as the hydroton stays wet for a day or so. You could put down a coco mat to retain water as a safety net.
Once your room is setup and you know everything is well built, there is no reason you cant leave the room for 3 days or more. PimpJuice had a thread where he used an intellidoser and left his grow for over a week or more I think.
I dont know why so many people are telling you, you cant leave your grow for 3 days. I would be fearful of maybe a blown lamp, failed water pump, etc but not nutrients or PH. Even a failed water pump isnt catastrophic as the hydroton stays wet for a day or so. You could put down a coco mat to retain water as a safety net.
Once your room is setup and you know everything is well built, there is no reason you cant leave the room for 3 days or more. PimpJuice had a thread where he used an intellidoser and left his grow for over a week or more I think.
pico, what is the best type of block i can use to plant in for ebb and flow, or should i say, what media works best with ebb and flow for my situation? Coco pots or anything that requires transplanting like that, i do not want to mess with. Also, what size rezzy and pump do u use for a 4x8 ebb and flow grow?
Macster2
Member
Smurfin
Maybe I can help,I use one gal plastic pots 3/4 filled with hydroton spag lines to each pot .Water runs over the hydroton continuously drains out the bottem of the pot onto my plastic lined table (installed on an angle) and drains back to the 30 gal rez. Easy peasy occassionnaly a bead blocks the drain but you can add extra drains or bigger ones.I found this to work very well and never needed to make changes.
Use a bigger rez to stabilize ph and might I suggest a web cam on your grow hard wired and password protected so as to keep an eye on what's going on.
Maybe I can help,I use one gal plastic pots 3/4 filled with hydroton spag lines to each pot .Water runs over the hydroton continuously drains out the bottem of the pot onto my plastic lined table (installed on an angle) and drains back to the 30 gal rez. Easy peasy occassionnaly a bead blocks the drain but you can add extra drains or bigger ones.I found this to work very well and never needed to make changes.
Use a bigger rez to stabilize ph and might I suggest a web cam on your grow hard wired and password protected so as to keep an eye on what's going on.
