deeppurple87
Member
My thoughts on technique are that if you do things right, you get what you start with. You can make it worse, but not better, so use the best material you can get.
Fresh cut material or material cured a week or so, will produce more impressive results than the finest of last seasons stash, because it still retains high monoterpenes.
I only do closed loop extraction these days, which I typically do around -30F to minimize wax and anthro cyanin pigment pickup.
Typically on a Mk VC, using 99.5% Instrument grade, pre-distilled and filtered to 99.995%, I flood two volumes from the bottom and rinse with one from the top.
I harvest it as hard powdery cotton candy, which I whisk into a powder.
For shatter, I put it in a thin film at 115F and start pulling a vacuum, stopping and letting it settle until the flurry dies down at -29.5" Hg, at which time I flip it and repeat the incremental vacuum steps.
For wax, I start around 150/160F and increment up the vacuum. Pausing when the boiling flurries.
Artisan concentrates requires individual patty attention and tweaking, because no two patties, even from the same plant and extraction, will react exactly the same.
Thanks Graywolf for stopping in!
So I have been purging shatter using your method (thin film 115 until no reaction at -29.5 and flip)
Best results I Have had yet. Some parts wax up, but I make those into crumble
Wow so you go up to 150/160 for honeycomb crumble?
I have found that higher temps makes mine into a sticky wax/goo, However I have never tried going over 135.
So the additional heat will harden it into the cookies?
I am about to harvest a monster green poison plant. How should I best prep her for blasting?
Sorry for all the questions, but when I have the master of concentrates here, I gotta try right?
Thanks again!!
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