G
Guest
Post pics of the largest plant you ever gre w/seen(no hemp).
G
Guest
why two threads exactly the same..please post pics
G
Guest
Nice plants. Keep the pics coming
steveoi812
Member
Year before last I grew a plant that had to be over 10 feet tall, yielded over a pound and a half of funky organic goodness. Outdoors of course, I wish I had a digicam back then...
D
DJ_highst_
here are two HOG plants outdoors (fighting to get inside...lol) I am not sure the exact number of final weight, we'll just say enough. Cut them down late Oct. peace_highst
D
DJ_highst_
from outside
Last edited:
D
DJ_highst_
here is what they look like after the first chop
well theres no pics to go along but if you listen to this radio broadcast, this guys talking about 3 -5 lbs a plant. i know it does seem a little far fetched but he has some technique where he burries the branches thus promoting more roots and whatever. anybody know more about this?
http://www.cbc.ca/thecurrent/2003/200305/20030528.html part 2. give it a listen. then come comment here
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=799058#post799058
http://www.cbc.ca/thecurrent/2003/200305/20030528.html part 2. give it a listen. then come comment here
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=799058#post799058
D
DJ_highst_
yes its called serpentine layering, its not far fetched at all. Read the book "Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke, great book.peace_highst
James Morrison
~*MR.MOJORISIN*~
wow. great pictures everybody.
props to my boy DJ_highst_
Im very interested in this "serpentine layering" technique
so i did a google...dont mean to hijack the thread thizzrdie
Layering
Layering is a process in which roots develop on a stem while it remains attached to, and nutritionally sup ported by the parent plant. The stem is then detached and the meristematic tip becomes a new individual, growing on its own roots, termed a layer. Layering differs from cutting because rooting occurs while the shoot is still attached to the parent. Rooting is initiated in layering by various stem treatments which interrupt the downward flow of photosynthates (products of photosynthesis) from the shoot tip. This causes the accumulation of auxins, carbohydrates and other growth factors. Rooting occurs in this treated area even though the layer remains attached to the parent. Water and mineral nutrients are supplied by the parent plant because only the phloem has been interrupted; the xylem tissues connecting the shoot to the parental roots remain intact (see illus. 1, page 29). In this manner, the propagator can overcome the problem of keeping a severed cutting alive while it roots, thus greatly in creasing the chances of success. Old woody reproductive stems that, as cuttings, would dry up and die, may be rooted by layering. Layering can be very time-consuming and is less practical for mass cloning of parental stock than removing and rooting dozens of cuttings. Layering, however, does give the small-scale propagator a high-success alternative which also requires less equipment than cuttings.
Techniques of Layering
Almost all layering techniques rely on the principle of etiolation. Both soil layering and air layering involve depriving the rooting portion of the stem of light, promoting rooting. Root-promoting substances and fungicides prove beneficial, and they are usually applied as a spray or powder. Root formation on layers depends on constant moisture, good air circulation and moderate temperatures at the site of rooting.
Soil Layering
Soil layering may be performed in several ways. The most common is known as tip layering. A long, supple vegetative lower limb is selected for layering, carefully bent so it touches the ground, and stripped of leaves and small shoots where the rooting is to take place. A narrow trench, 6 inches to a foot long and 2 to 4 inches deep, is dug parallel to the limb, which is placed along the bottom of the trench, secured with wire or wooden stakes, and buried with a small mound of soil. The buried section of stem may be girdled by cutting, crushed with a loop of wire, or twisted to disrupt the phloem tissue and cause the accumulation of substances which promote rooting. It may also be treated with growth regulators at this time.
Serpentine layering may be used to create multiple layers along one long limb. Several stripped sections of the limb are buried in separate trenches, making sure that at least one node remains above ground between each set of roots to allow shoots to develop. The soil surrounding the stem is kept moist at all times and may require wetting several times a day. A small stone or stick is inserted under each exposed section of stem to prevent the lateral shoot buds rotting from constant contact with the moist soil surface. Tip layers and serpentine layers may be started in small containers placed near the parental plant. Rooting usually begins within two weeks, and layers may be re moved with a sharp razor or clippers after four to six weeks. If the roots have become well established, transplanting may be difficult without damaging the tender root system. Shoots on layers continue to grow under the same conditions as the parent, and less time is needed for the clone to acclimatize or harden-off and begin to grow on its own than with cuttings.
In air layering, roots form on the aerial portions of stems that have been girdled, treated with growth regulators, and wrapped with moist rooting media. Air layering is an ancient form of propagation, possibly invented by the Chinese. The ancient technique of goo tee uses a ball of clay or soil plastered around a girdled stem and held with a wrap of fibers. Above this is suspended a small container of water (such as a bamboo section) with a wick to the wrapped gootee; this way the gootee remains moist.
The single most difficult problem with air layers is the tendency for them to dry out quickly. Relatively small amounts of rooting media are used, and the position on aerial parts of the plant exposes them to drying winds and sun. Many wraps have been tried, but the best seems to be clear polyethylene plastic sheeting which allows oxygen to enter and retains moisture well. Air layers are easiest to make in greenhouses where humidity is high, but they may also be used outside as long as they are kept moist and don’t freeze. Air layers are most useful to the amateur propagator and breeder because they take up little space and allow the efficient cloning of many individuals.
Making an Air Layer
A recently sexed young limb 3-10 mm (1/8 to 3/8 inch) in diameter is selected. The site of the layer is usually a spot 30 centimeters (12 inches) or more from the limb tip. Unless the stem is particularly strong and woody, it is splinted by positioning a 30 centimeter (12 inch) stick of approximately the same diameter as the stem to be layered along the bottom edge of the stem. This splint is tied in place at both ends with a piece of elastic plant-tie tape. This enables the propagator to handle the stem more confidently. An old, dry Cannabis stem works well as a splint. Next, the stem is girdled between the two ties with a twist of wire or a diagonal cut. After girdling, the stem is sprayed or dusted with a fungicide and growth regulator, surrounded with one or two handfuls of unmilled sphagnum moss, and wrapped tightly with a small sheet of clear polyethylene film (4-6 mil). The film is tied securely at each end, tightly enough to make a waterproof seal but not so tight that the phloem tissues are crushed. If the phloem is crushed, compounds necessary for rooting will accumulate outside of the medium and rooting will be slowed. Plastic florist’s tape or electrician’s tape works well for sealing air layers. Although polyethylene film retains moisture well, the moss will dry out eventually and must be remoistened periodically. Unwrapping each layer is impractical and would disturb the roots, so a hypodermic syringe is used to inject water, nutrients, fungicides, and growth regulators. If the layers become too wet the limb rots. Layers are checked regularly by injecting water until it squirts out and then very lightly squeezing the medium to remove any extra water. Heavy layers on thin limbs are supported by tying them to a large adjacent limb or a small stick anchored in the ground. Rooting begins within two weeks and roots will be visible through the clear plastic within four weeks. When the roots appear adequately developed, the layer is removed, carefully unwrapped, and transplanted with the moss and the splint intact. The layer is watered well and placed in a shady spot for a few days to allow the plant to harden-off and adjust to living on its own root system. It is then placed in the open. In hot weather, large leaves are removed from the shoot before removing the layer to prevent excessive transpiration and wilting.
Layers develop fastest just after sexual differentiation. Many layers may be made of staminate plants in order to save small samples of them for pollen collection and to conserve space. By the time the pollen parents begin to flower profusely, the layers will be rooted and may be cut and removed to an isolated area. Layers taken from pistil late plants are used for breeding, or saved and cloned for the following season.
Layers often seem rejuvenated when they are re moved from the parent plant and begin to be supported by their own root systems. This could mean that a clone will continue to grow longer and mature later than its parent under the same conditions. Layers removed from old or seeded parents will continue to produce new calyxes and pistils instead of completing the life cycle along with the parents. Rejuvenated layers are useful for off-season seed production.
http://www.mellowgold.com/grow/mjbotany-removed/marijuanabotany2.html
http://www.google.com/search?q=serp...ient=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...J&q=marijuana+serpentine+layering&btnG=Search
props to my boy DJ_highst_
Im very interested in this "serpentine layering" technique
so i did a google...dont mean to hijack the thread thizzrdie
Layering
Layering is a process in which roots develop on a stem while it remains attached to, and nutritionally sup ported by the parent plant. The stem is then detached and the meristematic tip becomes a new individual, growing on its own roots, termed a layer. Layering differs from cutting because rooting occurs while the shoot is still attached to the parent. Rooting is initiated in layering by various stem treatments which interrupt the downward flow of photosynthates (products of photosynthesis) from the shoot tip. This causes the accumulation of auxins, carbohydrates and other growth factors. Rooting occurs in this treated area even though the layer remains attached to the parent. Water and mineral nutrients are supplied by the parent plant because only the phloem has been interrupted; the xylem tissues connecting the shoot to the parental roots remain intact (see illus. 1, page 29). In this manner, the propagator can overcome the problem of keeping a severed cutting alive while it roots, thus greatly in creasing the chances of success. Old woody reproductive stems that, as cuttings, would dry up and die, may be rooted by layering. Layering can be very time-consuming and is less practical for mass cloning of parental stock than removing and rooting dozens of cuttings. Layering, however, does give the small-scale propagator a high-success alternative which also requires less equipment than cuttings.
Techniques of Layering
Almost all layering techniques rely on the principle of etiolation. Both soil layering and air layering involve depriving the rooting portion of the stem of light, promoting rooting. Root-promoting substances and fungicides prove beneficial, and they are usually applied as a spray or powder. Root formation on layers depends on constant moisture, good air circulation and moderate temperatures at the site of rooting.
Soil Layering
Soil layering may be performed in several ways. The most common is known as tip layering. A long, supple vegetative lower limb is selected for layering, carefully bent so it touches the ground, and stripped of leaves and small shoots where the rooting is to take place. A narrow trench, 6 inches to a foot long and 2 to 4 inches deep, is dug parallel to the limb, which is placed along the bottom of the trench, secured with wire or wooden stakes, and buried with a small mound of soil. The buried section of stem may be girdled by cutting, crushed with a loop of wire, or twisted to disrupt the phloem tissue and cause the accumulation of substances which promote rooting. It may also be treated with growth regulators at this time.
Serpentine layering may be used to create multiple layers along one long limb. Several stripped sections of the limb are buried in separate trenches, making sure that at least one node remains above ground between each set of roots to allow shoots to develop. The soil surrounding the stem is kept moist at all times and may require wetting several times a day. A small stone or stick is inserted under each exposed section of stem to prevent the lateral shoot buds rotting from constant contact with the moist soil surface. Tip layers and serpentine layers may be started in small containers placed near the parental plant. Rooting usually begins within two weeks, and layers may be re moved with a sharp razor or clippers after four to six weeks. If the roots have become well established, transplanting may be difficult without damaging the tender root system. Shoots on layers continue to grow under the same conditions as the parent, and less time is needed for the clone to acclimatize or harden-off and begin to grow on its own than with cuttings.
In air layering, roots form on the aerial portions of stems that have been girdled, treated with growth regulators, and wrapped with moist rooting media. Air layering is an ancient form of propagation, possibly invented by the Chinese. The ancient technique of goo tee uses a ball of clay or soil plastered around a girdled stem and held with a wrap of fibers. Above this is suspended a small container of water (such as a bamboo section) with a wick to the wrapped gootee; this way the gootee remains moist.
The single most difficult problem with air layers is the tendency for them to dry out quickly. Relatively small amounts of rooting media are used, and the position on aerial parts of the plant exposes them to drying winds and sun. Many wraps have been tried, but the best seems to be clear polyethylene plastic sheeting which allows oxygen to enter and retains moisture well. Air layers are easiest to make in greenhouses where humidity is high, but they may also be used outside as long as they are kept moist and don’t freeze. Air layers are most useful to the amateur propagator and breeder because they take up little space and allow the efficient cloning of many individuals.
Making an Air Layer
A recently sexed young limb 3-10 mm (1/8 to 3/8 inch) in diameter is selected. The site of the layer is usually a spot 30 centimeters (12 inches) or more from the limb tip. Unless the stem is particularly strong and woody, it is splinted by positioning a 30 centimeter (12 inch) stick of approximately the same diameter as the stem to be layered along the bottom edge of the stem. This splint is tied in place at both ends with a piece of elastic plant-tie tape. This enables the propagator to handle the stem more confidently. An old, dry Cannabis stem works well as a splint. Next, the stem is girdled between the two ties with a twist of wire or a diagonal cut. After girdling, the stem is sprayed or dusted with a fungicide and growth regulator, surrounded with one or two handfuls of unmilled sphagnum moss, and wrapped tightly with a small sheet of clear polyethylene film (4-6 mil). The film is tied securely at each end, tightly enough to make a waterproof seal but not so tight that the phloem tissues are crushed. If the phloem is crushed, compounds necessary for rooting will accumulate outside of the medium and rooting will be slowed. Plastic florist’s tape or electrician’s tape works well for sealing air layers. Although polyethylene film retains moisture well, the moss will dry out eventually and must be remoistened periodically. Unwrapping each layer is impractical and would disturb the roots, so a hypodermic syringe is used to inject water, nutrients, fungicides, and growth regulators. If the layers become too wet the limb rots. Layers are checked regularly by injecting water until it squirts out and then very lightly squeezing the medium to remove any extra water. Heavy layers on thin limbs are supported by tying them to a large adjacent limb or a small stick anchored in the ground. Rooting begins within two weeks and roots will be visible through the clear plastic within four weeks. When the roots appear adequately developed, the layer is removed, carefully unwrapped, and transplanted with the moss and the splint intact. The layer is watered well and placed in a shady spot for a few days to allow the plant to harden-off and adjust to living on its own root system. It is then placed in the open. In hot weather, large leaves are removed from the shoot before removing the layer to prevent excessive transpiration and wilting.
Layers develop fastest just after sexual differentiation. Many layers may be made of staminate plants in order to save small samples of them for pollen collection and to conserve space. By the time the pollen parents begin to flower profusely, the layers will be rooted and may be cut and removed to an isolated area. Layers taken from pistil late plants are used for breeding, or saved and cloned for the following season.
Layers often seem rejuvenated when they are re moved from the parent plant and begin to be supported by their own root systems. This could mean that a clone will continue to grow longer and mature later than its parent under the same conditions. Layers removed from old or seeded parents will continue to produce new calyxes and pistils instead of completing the life cycle along with the parents. Rejuvenated layers are useful for off-season seed production.
http://www.mellowgold.com/grow/mjbotany-removed/marijuanabotany2.html
http://www.google.com/search?q=serp...ient=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...J&q=marijuana+serpentine+layering&btnG=Search
G
Guest
Great looking plants guys. What does it take to grow these plants these huge(other than genetics and LOVE)How much dirt did you use on 1 monster plant?
I like to grow big plants..
My biggest so far was a 6.5 (est) lb lady..
3-5 lb bushes arent uncommon in my outdoor..
those are Powerhouse trunks.. they both pushed out nearly 4 lbs dried per plant..
heres the topps..
here was an HTC Skunk IBL, (ind pheno) yeilded real heavy.. good few pounds..
Peace, bub.
My biggest so far was a 6.5 (est) lb lady..
3-5 lb bushes arent uncommon in my outdoor..
those are Powerhouse trunks.. they both pushed out nearly 4 lbs dried per plant..
heres the topps..
here was an HTC Skunk IBL, (ind pheno) yeilded real heavy.. good few pounds..
Peace, bub.
RoNdO
Member
I wish i had a pic it was 8 feet tall and bushy like you wouldn't believe 6 feet around maybe more it had no hope in hell of finishing in my climate but it was a sight to behold.
I started with a clone from an indoor grow and put it out in early april it was a couple months old when it went out lots of topping trying to keep the height down but didn't she turned into a monster. it had a fat 5" trunk at the end. I gotta do that again with something that will finish here probably wont get as big since its won't be an equatorial sativa.
I started with a clone from an indoor grow and put it out in early april it was a couple months old when it went out lots of topping trying to keep the height down but didn't she turned into a monster. it had a fat 5" trunk at the end. I gotta do that again with something that will finish here probably wont get as big since its won't be an equatorial sativa.
Not mine really...but i wish they were mine
D
DJ_highst_
acidfire said:
You could say I topped it few times...lol I do some tie downs and lots of breaks, this my favorite bc it is so fast and easy and requires no tools, just grap and bend at strategtic, advantagous spots (ie: spots wherw you can see it can spilt easy or has lots of growth nodes). I didnt do any layering on this plant, but I did plant the stalk so deep after vegging it indoors that some of the lower branches got covered by the end of flower. I am going to do some layer/grafting experiments this summer though and I hope I can get some good results. I will def keep everyone posted.
Thanks for the props eveyone, I appreciate it.
Nice info -J Morrison-
