Help and tips making shatter and honeycomb

Gray Wolf said:

My thoughts on technique are that if you do things right, you get what you start with. You can make it worse, but not better, so use the best material you can get.

Fresh cut material or material cured a week or so, will produce more impressive results than the finest of last seasons stash, because it still retains high monoterpenes.

I only do closed loop extraction these days, which I typically do around -30F to minimize wax and anthro cyanin pigment pickup.

Typically on a Mk VC, using 99.5% Instrument grade, pre-distilled and filtered to 99.995%, I flood two volumes from the bottom and rinse with one from the top.

I harvest it as hard powdery cotton candy, which I whisk into a powder.

For shatter, I put it in a thin film at 115F and start pulling a vacuum, stopping and letting it settle until the flurry dies down at -29.5" Hg, at which time I flip it and repeat the incremental vacuum steps.

For wax, I start around 150/160F and increment up the vacuum. Pausing when the boiling flurries.

Artisan concentrates requires individual patty attention and tweaking, because no two patties, even from the same plant and extraction, will react exactly the same.

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furrywall11 said:

It looks like you're on the right track, DP....The thing is it's hard to give instructions on how to make honeycomb because each strain is a unique configuration of cannabinoids and terpenes that reacts differently from the previous one. You might want to play around with lower temps and whipping...I've had steady success with Blue Dream at 104-108 turning into honeycomb. Freshness of material is going to play a huge role too. If you have fresh, high grade material you pretty much can't help but create a great product out of it.

This is my favorite form of honeycomb...
View attachment 330590

This is some GSC extract more not the terpy wax side than honeycomb..
View attachment 330591

Some nug runs...that big fluffy one in the back was a hit
View attachment 330592

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treemel said:

Im trying for the honeycomb, I want light colored non sticky cookies.
When I vac I let it the vac stay on, it stays over 28hg but when I add heat the material turns to a sticky runny goo nothing I do from there on can change that except for the freezer, in a vac/oven I had success going to 118 to 120 degress F to wax up but color due to heat turns a light brown. Ive had zero success in a vacit pro, Ive been having nothing but problem with the material going dark, fresh or not then just sticky. Seen a lot of people having problems with autobudder wish I had that problem, but I cant get thick cookies or anything but sticky dark goo. I have started with material that is fresh og to old og. With og been told don't go over 108.
I have done blast to purge bath with fans on best success in color and getting rid of butane fast no heat out door temp in 90s, no matter what I get a clump of blonde putty ready for the vac, but once introduced to heat it screws it up and turns eventually to a dark sticky goo. Seems like im having same issues as deeppurple trying to find the right temps and times, any input would be great.

I was wondering if I started the vacit pro and just let the oil muffin up then stop vac wait a half hour hit the vac again keep the muffin as long as I can and putting the heat mat around the pot getting up to 108 or not, rinse repeat every 30. Is heat the key to cookie cause all I see is turning material dark and sticky goo. Any help appreaciated!

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deeppurple87 said:

Thanks Graywolf for stopping in!
So I have been purging shatter using your method (thin film 115 until no reaction at -29.5 and flip)
Best results I Have had yet. Some parts wax up, but I make those into crumble

Wow so you go up to 150/160 for honeycomb crumble?
I have found that higher temps makes mine into a sticky wax/goo, However I have never tried going over 135.

So the additional heat will harden it into the cookies?

I am about to harvest a monster green poison plant. How should I best prep her for blasting?

Sorry for all the questions, but when I have the master of concentrates here, I gotta try right?

Thanks again!!

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deeppurple87 said:

Also, What is the longest you recommend soaking butane in a closed column, (assuming I froze everything beforehand) ? I Have not yet learned the winterization process, so I do not want too much plant wax in the final product..

Edit: I get how to now, just have never done it. Seems simple, add everclear and dissolve bho, freeze, filter, heat purge than vac purge. Plant waxes caught in the filter under freezing conditions.

I really appreciate the help
Thanks Again!

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Gray Wolf said:

If I'm going for bragging rights, I don't soak. I pass two or so column volumes from the bottom and rinse one from the top.

If I'm going for yield to use in edibles, I run the bottom flood until it over flows, then run it that much longer, and then recover that one volume that overflowed into the lower collection pot, while the remaining one volume soaks.

When I hit -10" Hg, I flood another volume from the bottom and recover it while soaking again until it is recovered. I then dump and rinse one volume from the top.

Depending on the system and running the recovery pot at 200F, recovery takes about three to five minutes.

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MrBungle said:

Dang I was just spinning my wheels making concentrates by myself at the last forum I was part of... This is the place to be... I've got a small closed column extractor that I got for pretty cheap from best value vacs... I had to replace the valves cause those greedy fuckers welded the packing nut in place, and the work valve would just piss under pressure, after the ball had been misshapen, and cleaned a few times...

I've let mine soak for 2 hours, but I find it to be best around an hour...I will say I stopped waiting 2 hours mostly cause of the valve problems.. I'd come back to a snake of errl streaming from the extractor into a pile on my pyrex dish.... now that I have some valves that hold pressure I might try a longer soak again

As for honeycomb.... I have a dessicant chamber that I put on an electric burner set very low... it heats the chamber to around 150-160F but I suspend a silcone pie plate inside the chamber so that my oil is not directly on the burner.... after that its a waiting game pretty much for wax.. sometimes its fast.. 6-8 hours.. sometimes its slow 12-15 hours.. sometimes i just say fuck it.... cause its all for me anyways..

I'd like to learn a lil more about dewaxing... Now that I'm getting ready for my first dab of the day.. its time to do some searching!

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Gray Wolf said:

East coasters check out, http://www.winechateau.com/
West coasters, try http://organicalcohol.com/store/

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deeppurple87 said:

Thx for the input!

I spent the past week researching dewaxing/winterization. Its actually quite simple in theory, (Yet I have yet to do it in practice)

Step 1: take bho and dissolve in everclear (check online for ratio)

step2:freeze solution overnight

step 3: While still frozen run, solution through coffee filter
(Plant waxes will solidify under freezing conditions, so thus will get trapped in the coffee filter)

Step 4: leave filtered solution out to evaporate (everclear evaporates leaving waxless bho)

Step 5: Vaccum purge out any remaining butane or alcohol.

result dewaxed shatter!

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DoubleTripleOG said:

freeze solution in everclear for 48 hours

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