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Dixon 200 Sanitary Clamps

FishmanK

Member
Received Sanitary High-Pressure (2-bolt) Clamps
"Dixon" "200"
they are same diameter as a chinese 2" high-pressure clamp but seems frames of these are heavier and the channel of the clamps is narrower than the generic chinese 304 so Im having trouble seating it correctly w PTFE gaskets
Is this the style of Dixon Clamps?
Are they better to use with only viton etc and not thick PTFE?
 

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Old Gold

Active member
Received Sanitary High-Pressure (2-bolt) Clamps
"Dixon" "200"
they are same diameter as a chinese 2" high-pressure clamp but seems frames of these are heavier and the channel of the clamps is narrower than the generic chinese 304 so Im having trouble seating it correctly w PTFE gaskets
Is this the style of Dixon Clamps?
Are they better to use with only viton etc and not thick PTFE?

I torque to 20ft-lbs (or awfully close to it) on PTFE, which is to several manufacturers' specs. It may be slightly overkill, but creates a steady seal, and I get through about 3-4 weeks of rigorous daily use before ever needing to replace permanently.

I like PTFE more than viton. I don't trust the quality of Viton, nor do I like that half the gaskets I tried had to be either stretched into place or frozen to "shrink" into place.
Chinese parts have terrible consistency, and Ive gotten clamps that appear to be two entirely different dimentionally, but came as one order from a single distributer.your best bet, is to find a manufacturer/distributor you like, and order EVERYTHING from them. Bolts, nuts, clamps, washers.
 
This actually just sparked a question in my mind. I want to source new bolts/nuts for the bolted sanitary clamps on my CLS and I don't know where to begin. I too toque to 20ft/lb, but recently have noticed some wear on my nut, probably not too concerning but I'd like to have the option of replacing them.

What are some of the specs of the bolt/nuts, relative to the dixon bolted clamp my nuts are bulkier/fatter. Is there a specific dimension that should be used? One thing to note is that I occasionally use a nitrogen assist and push my system to 100psi, granted most of the nuts I've seen are 200psi@75c.
 

FishmanK

Member
dimensions

dimensions

This actually just sparked a question in my mind. I want to source new bolts/nuts for the bolted sanitary clamps on my CLS and I don't know where to begin. I too toque to 20ft/lb, but recently have noticed some wear on my nut, probably not too concerning but I'd like to have the option of replacing them.

What are some of the specs of the bolt/nuts, relative to the dixon bolted clamp my nuts are bulkier/fatter. Is there a specific dimension that should be used? One thing to note is that I occasionally use a nitrogen assist and push my system to 100psi, granted most of the nuts I've seen are 200psi@75c.
This is another issue too, yes
the nuts are thicker and appear to be bronze (reddish) and not dark brass like all the others I have and I have just ordered 5/8" deep 6-point sockets to use on my new torque wrenches I plan to use dedicated to the purpose of tightening clamps...
These Dixon Clamps require 11/16th" socket/wrench (just over 17mm)
unlike all other 5/8" socket tightened clamps (generic/clover/other-strange-symbol, etc) I own, from 1.5" to 3"

Likely these would last longer without as much wear though
The screw threads are the same as all my other clamps
Just the nuts are significantly different.
So I could swap them out or switch over to all dixon sized for uniformity

I saw a chart recently that said 15 to 20 ft/lbs for up to 2 or 3" clamps
and 20 to 30 ft/lbs for 3" plus clamps, on an industrial site

have 1/4" drive torque wrench and 3/8" drive torque wrench and planning to run smaller at 20 and larger @25ft/lbs...
had to get 1/4 increase to 3/8 drive bushing for 1/4 torque wrench as they do not make a 5/8" 6-point deep socket in 1/4" drive
but I knew I didnt need a long handle for 20# torque
 

FishmanK

Member
Its my impression that these are puposely brass to promote timely replacement

I have heard of one specific incident where the nut threads failed and this caused a containment breach (and injury)
The individual involved described less than precise maintenance and torque practices, to my interpretation of his statements...
 

Old Gold

Active member
Symbiotic AD:
20 ft•lbs eats away my brass nuts. Are you using silicone bronze?
As far as dimensions, I'll try to source them from different manufacturers. Swagelok for example, has CAD sketches and dimensions for every damn fitting..couldn't quickly find anything like it through Dixon Sanitary.

FishmanK:
Where did you find the chart claiming higher than 20 ft•lbs? I've never seen higher than that. And I can tell you my 6" clamps damn near touch one another at 20ft lbs.
 

FishmanK

Member
I have put 0 torque on 0 clamps except with fingers checking fit of parts so far, so TYVM! for all this input
 
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Old Gold

Active member
[URL=http://www.integracompanies.com/Portals/108912/images/Torque%20Table.jpg]View Image[/URL]
this is one spot I saw this and another url I have not relocated I remember a different chart
I have put 0 torque on 0 clamps except with fingers checking fit of parts so far, so TYVM! for all this input

Those are INCH•pounds, not FOOT•lbs....I have seen those numbers plenty of times but can tell you for damn sure I have never maintained a seal below 5 ft•lbs (60 in•lbs).
 

FishmanK

Member
sorry, I cannot re-locate this and that high spec wasnt what I saw on other sites
I did a search on "torque sanitary clamps" and replaced with "triclamp" and did both sanitary and triclamp and read several pages of url links off those searches
mostly sales pages with little or no spec info
 
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=315058&page=4

I shared some findings on this topic on page 4 of the thread above. Finally relevant to anyone else lol

This is the thread that prompted me on using 20ft/lb, before that I just used a drill to tighten everything. The drill is what really destroyed my nuts.

It is not silicone bronze, it is just generic brass nuts. Do you think that using silicone bronze is a better material? I'm not double nutted, mostly because I haven't sourced the parts.

Ill probably try Swagelok, they've been the go to for most of my parts.
 
The 4"s are a little stiff when you first start using them, almost like they need breaking in. I would imagine the 2"s are even worse. I use PTFE envelopes and tufsteel, and they are borderline mallet worthy at first. It seems like they are springier SS than the cheap Chinois.
 
Silcone bronze 655 has a 60,200psi yield strength (tensile), were brass has one of 19,600psi. However silicone bronze 651 is around 15,200psi. Luckily (aside from cheapo parts) nuts are usually SB655, which has an ultimate tensile strength higher than that of 314 stainless, but lower than grade 5 or 8. They are also softer, leading to less cycles.
 

FishmanK

Member
Good to know
I now am not so hesitant to replace these with the 5/8 driver size

*for sale cheap, unused, removed from new equipment 11/16 driver sized high pressure clamp bolt nuts*
heh
 

FishmanK

Member
from austintex supply site

Item Code: 13CB
Brand: Dixon Sanitary
Material: 304 Stainless Steel
Size: 3/8"-16 Thread

--------------------

2-1/4" Long: fits 1/2" thru 1-1/2" clamps
2-3/4" Long: fits 2" & 2-1/2" clamps
3-1/4" Long: fits 3" thru 12" clamps
 
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FishmanK

Member
Just buy grade 8s, even 5s. The arguments on the side of needing brass or bronze for our application are few.
Errl, do you have input about the appropriateness of nylon insert nuts (aircraft or self-locking) being used in this application?
Could one do this to drop the lockwasher and inevitable errosion seen from the shape of lockwashers?
 
to the best of my knowledge, lock washers are to be used in light torque (i.e. the washer is not fully compressed,) or in applications where vibration or rapid temperature change is a problem. Aside from temperature change I see no real reason for there use. They may be matched with the bronze/brass nuts for some reason I am unaware of, but I wouldn't see a problem in using a nylon nut, or just a nut by itself (may dig into the clamp if its bare.) Nylon nuts aren't great for repetitive use like we do.
 

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