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Is there any chance of Harvesting a pure 20-24 week Sativa at 45 degree?

pinkus

Well-known member
Veteran
But its not enough, if your daytemperatures below freezing.. Wich happens here in January.

I found some good Info. Basically many many People use bubble wrap. The bigger the bubbles the better the Isolation. Just average bubble Wrap. Big pricedifferneces at Stores. Also look for UV resistency for Longlivity, and deinstall it when not used, cause it can be dmaged from uv in 3 Years.


I heard someone saying it made 5 Celsius / 10Farenheit Difference in Winternight.
But searching for more reports.

The best thing i heard, you can use fat Candles to heat. One Person told each fat Candle would raise Temperature by 1 Celsius / 2Farenheit !

What i still didnt find out if People actually use no ventillation, i have read Winter-greenhouse Topics, but none mentiones Ventilators. They only open Doors sometimes cause mold.. Im bit confused?

Otherwise all sounded better than i thought, especially reported Temperaturedifference at night.

Lets geek out abit on Wintergreenhouses.

Candles will consume all the O2 in short order... also plants should be insulated from the ground as it will wick away heat,
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
just cover up the light? For a average/small seize greenhouse, , candles would cost 40 dollar per month for 5 Celsius/10 Farenh increase while 12 hours Nights. Thats what i came up with.
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
no pinkus: When the wax vapor burns, carbon and the oxygen in the air form carbon dioxide
plants breath, need Carbon dioxide, they love candles if im not mistacken.
 

pinkus

Well-known member
Veteran
You are mistaken, they also need some oxygen. They are a net producer however they also need oxygen, particularly at night.
 

pinkus

Well-known member
Veteran
Your calculations also don't take into account the amount of space you are trying to heat if I understand correctly.
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
ok agreed pinkus, i have overseen it. Still n question how bad this is. I have now read multiple Times, that people use candles to heat greenhouse, might not be that bad.
 

therevverend

Well-known member
Veteran
Wow that Viet Black actually looks respectable. Not how it would look with intense sunshine and warm weather but I'd like to try a puff.

You don't have to worry about frost killing seeds in buds outdoors, you can store seeds in a freezer and they'll still sprout. If they're immature they're lost but they wouldn't mature anyway. I've had volunteers sprout from moldy buds that were frozen stuck to the ground in the winter.

The biggest problem right now is how short the days are and how low in the sky the sun is. I haven't checked in a week but last time I looked I still had plants that were alive. They don't almost any direct sun. Even on days when the sun shines it's so low in the sky it only hits the plants for maybe an hour or so. The light rays have to fire through so much atmosphere, moisture, and pollution by the time it gets to the ground it's very weak. Compared to the tropics where the days are longer and the sun is directly above.

Another problem created by the first problem is the moisture. Even during sunny weather the sun's energy is so weak it doesn't dry out the flowers or the plants. Cannabis hates soggy cold soil, leaves, flowers. Water quickly degrades terpenes and THC. The reason it hasn't frozen this far north is because it's stayed cloudy and wet, it takes a lot of cold to force all that water to freeze. In any northern climate that maintains temperatures above freezing the moisture is much too much for plants to thrive. I can see and smell the results in the waterlogged buds I harvest this time, they always suffer from weather degradation.

Without breeding earlier flowering strains you need to build a hoop or greenhouse and use supplemental lighting.
 

chilliwilli

Waterboy
One month could be enough to finish some nice genetics. I'm wondering if it would be better to have the pile seperat to prevent mold infection.
Yeah but one month hot showers would also be a long time above freezing if the energy could be stored.
The more i think of it the more i belive that this is only working proper if u can store exzessive heat for some time.
The passiv solar gh have the waterbarrels at northside for that. The geothermal use the soil and transport the heat via air what is effective enough to keep temps above freezing but not more imo.
Maybe some old good isolated boiler to store the heat and paint a radiator black and place at highest(=hottest) point in gh(or in the pile) to collect the heat? And a second loop with radiator to heat the gh in night?
 

therevverend

Well-known member
Veteran
Besides the compost black plastic will absorb heat from the sun and radiate it at night. A couple years back a friend left black plastic on the ground over winter, in February with snow on the ground he had seedlings volunteering.
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
TychoMonolyth I have couple 17 Weeker Cambodians growing. Will never finish here, no idea why i planted em.. Cause the bad Weather the Mainstems are Maximally Fingerthick, im thinking if they would survive a Stemsplit..
 

CARCHOFA

Active member
You need to get practical experience growing cannabis before you talk about 20 week flowering times at 45 degrees N. First get strains that will finish at your latitude, preferably late September but you can probably manage into mid October. There are banana belts in Eastern Europe along the Danube, as Koondense mentions yoss33 has grown some beautiful Zamaldelica but that's the exception not the rule, the guy has tons of experience which is key. And Zamaldelica is 'only' 14 weeks, 20 weeks you're into January and you'll be smoking grey mold.

Because of a seed screw up I ended up with a tropical narrow leaf variety, I'm around 45 degrees N. It didn't begin flowering until the end of September, unlike the temperate adapted strains I normally grow which are almost done at that time. I got lucky, no hard frosts but contstant clouds and rain. It flowered about 15 weeks, harvested around Christmas time. Mini, mini, scruffle buds. Certainly not 'trip weed'. Here's a couple pics.

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You can see the weather damage, there's mature resin but it's been degraded by moisture, wind, and rain. It has a sweet fruity smell along with a grassy, hay, shake, type smell. No way it goes another 5 weeks to make 20 weeks flowering. I'll write up a smoke report when I try it, still curing it's too harsh at this point.

The biggest problem is not only is there low light intensity, the days are much too short. By the winter solstice the sun is up for 9 hours. It's so low in the sky it's blocked for most of the day by the landscape. And the weather is cloudy, foggy, overcast most of the time. Even though the plant had incredible resistance to boytritis it still had quite a bit of mold and the stem was rotting.

This has been reported over and over, many people have tried and failed growing equatorial strains in the north for longer then you've been alive. I feel like I did the best anyone could possibly do. The reason Thai and other equatorial strains have the reputation they do, as magical amazing trippy cannabis, the equatorial sun does something special. It's very rare to see someone grow them properly indoors either, the indoor lighting lacks the intensity they need.

There's a lot of tropical strain fans around here and there's always lots of positive feedback and congratulations when someone finishes a 20 week flowering plant inside. Deservedly so, it's hard as hell. But if you look closely at the pictures you see the plant is a shadow of true self, sick and dying, squirting out it's last few calyxes and hairs. It's a treat to the cultivator and appreciated by the connoisseur but it ain't much.

Then you look at the few tropical growers, usually in Queensland or Africa or a tropical island, and you see huge beasts with giant colas. THAT's how you get trip weed, not struggling to nurse a dying plant to squeeze out a bit of resin before it expires. There are exceptions but they're almost always master growers with years of experience who put in the time and dedication needed. They've mastered growing cannabis and are looking for a challenge, usually with a long breeding program.

You'll have much better luck working with nature, starting with strains adapted to your climate. Then spend a few years breeding, preferably indoors and out, crossing the strains with highs you like with the quicker flowering ones. And you'll be surprised, when you grow your own cannabis it's usually 'trip weed', you don't have to flower a plant for 20 weeks to get strong psychoactive effects. I do just fine with my hybrids, it makes a big difference having fresh live material as opposed to someone else's commercial stomped on, passed around stuff. But then I've spent years collecting seeds, growing stuff out, experimenting and getting better and better. And I know I still have a long way to go..

Nice way of thinking. I'm agree with you. Eacha varety is special in the site it has bred. However yo can make some selection and play with them. I remember the work from the people who grows in nordic countries, it was a great job with genethic worked years by years...
On the other hand you can be lucky and have have a nice year but it isn't the rule.
 

Donald Mallard

el duck
Moderator
Veteran
Does selection work with pure equatorial Sativa? Or does it need indica in it?

of course it works ,
though while you are selecting one thing ,
you might be eliminating another trait you enjoy ,

ie,,, selecting for earlier/faster types , might come at the expense of the high you want to keep ...
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
someone once said flower-downselecting works only if a Landrace was previously hybredized (without you knowing of the Hybridisation when collected at Orgin).

But my feeling says, it is shure possible, as Selection can form thousands of shapes with a Snip. But keeping the other Traits Intact is the Difficulty...
 
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