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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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Dr. Purpur

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
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Hey Tom,
Which was the Mom? DC or Haze? Tell me a little about the Mom Bro. Thats gonna be good Tom. I want a pack. DP
 
Dr. Purpur

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
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HorseMouth said:
Keep the BoSox shirt on, at least while they are on the west coast playing the Gigantes.

I'd love to get down the S.F. to catch that series. The girth is outstanding on the specimens on display in this thread. Please keep taking pic's and posting. Makes me feel less secluded where I'm growing for sure.

From left to right.

Owl's Skunk, Purple Ticinensis #3, Purple Ticinensis #1.



Have a great weekend all!
Click to expand...
Its real nice over in the Bay area today. I just got back from Oakland. Perfect Temperature! Re uped my Card. Everyone at the OCB was real nice to me. I was done in 15 minutes
 
Tom Hill

Tom Hill

Active member
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Dr. Purpur said:
Hey Tom,
Which was the Mom? DC or Haze? Tell me a little about the Mom Bro. Thats gonna be good Tom. I want a pack. DP
Click to expand...

2 very resinous DC mothers (2 of 144 from the above sticky'd DC seed grow thread - one "mocha", one "Grapefruit") were pollinated by 10 (I believe it was 10, notes not currently handy) resinous Haze males to yield the F1. Currently, I am doing a small 50 plant open pollination of those F1's to yield the F2.

I will start a new appropriate thread detailing all of this when the F2 seed is ready. Best Regards, Tom
 
Dr. Purpur

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
TomHill said:
2 very resinous DC mothers (2 of 144 from the above sticky'd DC seed grow thread - one "mocha", one "Grapefruit") were pollinated by 10 (I believe it was 10, notes not currently handy) resinous Haze males to yield the F1. Currently, I am doing a small 50 plant open pollination of those F1's to yield the F2.

I will start a new appropriate thread detailing all of this when the F2 seed is ready. Best Regards, Tom
Click to expand...
Thank You
 
T

Trinity Gold

Sounds like you're about to make a large marge my camp will want Tom...Keep things to the purple side and we'll be all over that one ;)
 
B

BotanicalBill

Member
nomaad thanks for the heads up on the BTi and nematodes.. I can get nematodes locally and I imagine BTi easy enough.. However I'm not sure breaking the cycle is even worth the effort where these are.. they're sitting in a pasture that's pretty much completely surrounded by vegetation that's taller than the plants.. They're pretty much part of the landscape unlike most folk's here that have their plants up in big boxes/planters, covered with straw, etc, to kind of give them an isolation barrier.. In our case the grass and such is literally growing up right into the plants, camo'd to the point that I walked right over one the other day on my way to what I THOUGHT was one of them that turned out to be an actual weed.. I looked around and realized I walked right past a 5 footer tied to the ground and never noticed it. My point, and question would be, given this information is it worth it or are we better off just using something like spinosad once a week to keep levels down?

Thanks

BB
 
nomaad

nomaad

Active member
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I'd use BT on them... maybe skip the Nematodes... if you are short on cash. The BTi that Trinity Gold recommended in my thread is very highly concentrated and very cheap to apply... Fuck them pests where they live, mang.

I am hoping to master the approach voiced by Tom in which a healthy plant should not have pest issues. Brix levels being right or something. Hopefully things will mellow out for me here soon and I'll have time to start experimenting with testing the various indicators or plant health. Sure would be nice to have plants that pests can't touch. Beats spraying a bunch of shit on em all the time.
 
localhero

localhero

Member
I second the high brix untouchable plants method. im in a bit of a quandry right now, i have some tomatoes that are getting beaten up by the bugs, literally feet away from healthy pest free ganj. i kinda wanna pull the tomatoes due to this, but then again thats why i have them in the first place - to suck up all the pests.

what do you guys think? pull the tomatoes and risk those bugs looking elsewhere for their next meal or keep em and keep hitting em with org pesticides?
 
nomaad

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
hit em with omri listed bug kill juice. fuck em. nothing gets in between nomaad and his bruschetta. nothing.
 
T

Trinity Gold

Fog your whole yard with Spinosad(do not use more than 6 times in a year spray early when its cold and the bees aren't out yet) and keep up on the brix mix...if your brix is over 10% there are little chance of pest and disease problems. The plant is just too strong to be a host to them once they're at that stage. It would be like the lions attacking the biggest most bad ass wildebeest with the most insane horns rather than the old weak one with the broke leg... I've noticed they take on a blue hue when they get there...
 
localhero

localhero

Member
hey right on TG, bacterial fog coming right up. i have read in the instructions not to over do the frequency of the spinosad, but remember people saying they do it weekly too during cat season.
 
T

Trinity Gold

People using spinosad to kill caterpillars need to take a pest management class for real!!

Use BTI in high concentrations all year and you will not see a single moth or caterpillar.

Spinosad needs to be broken out monthly as a topper..it shouldn't be your first method of control for such an easy pest to kill...because if you get something that really needs Spinosad to be stopped like earwigs or cucumber beetles or thrips...

What are ya'll going to do when you really need to use some thing and it won't work because you improperly applied it..

Are you all using proper PPE when you spray? Tyvek suit WITH HOOD, Nitrile gloves, respirator, goggles..If you're not..run down to ACE or Home Depot or wherever you shop and pick all of that up NOW..You are harming yourself by IMPROPERLY using these sprays...

While we're on the improper use of products...If some one mentions they're using Eagle 20 on their out door crops to stop PM I'll have a fucking heart attack...A neighbor here was showing me some of that and telling me about how he's going to stop PM in it's tracks...Well that shit is for fruiting trees and turf only..its MSDS basically says its radioactive and run for the hills..and this guy is trying to spray it all over his garden..After an earful from me I convinced him to give the bottle the black bag (garbage can) treatment and get on a proper IPM program...PLEASE read all labels and MSDS sheets before you decide to use a pesticide or fungicide on your garden...Many of our gardens are on our properties and it is VERY important to be a good steward to your land! You have to always keep in mind that what you spray WILL end up in the water table WILL end up in the insect and animal life all around...KEEP IT ORGANIC
 
Y

Yankee Grower

nomaad said:
Brix levels being right or something.
Click to expand...
Well...TG is by far more experienced with this whole area than me but from all that I've read when your brix is above 12 you will have virtually no pest issues. With brix it's not just about the sugar content though but the diffusion/spread of the reading.
 
localhero

localhero

Member
haha nice pots strainhunter, they look familiar... im assuming you drilled a shitload of holes. im gonna cut my barrels next time at the 2/3 mark and see if it makes a difference. good luck those girls look stoked.
 
S

straintester

Member
localhero said:
haha nice pots strainhunter, they look familiar... im assuming you drilled a shitload of holes. im gonna cut my barrels next time at the 2/3 mark and see if it makes a difference. good luck those girls look stoked.
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Yeah I used a half inch drill bit and put a load of holes in the bottom for proper drainage.
These are just standard 55 gallon industrial barrels cut in half. They contained food substance and were rinsed very well beforehand.
This is my first time using such barrels.
It saved me a mint:jump:

BTW...thanks for the comments.
I feel honoured to be amongst such excellent growers here in this thread.:tiphat:
 
localhero

localhero

Member
yeah man i get those food grade barrels for about 15 bones, big holes in the bottom and smaller ones along the sides for aeration atleast 6 inches from the top of the soil (basically bellow the bottom ridge mark). cut in half makes 2 20 gallon pots for about 7.50 each. using a table saw with the guard taken off will get you a much straighter cut, you just make your marks and spin the barrel. i even made a soil mixer out of one of the brown 50 gallon ones with the twist off top.

im finding the barrels with the bottom support on both ends work better, otherwise the rounded bottom half cuts like to warp if left empty. those things are heavy to move around. you can get one of those janitor bin dollies or make your own if you ever plan on using them inside. that will save your floor liner from getting cut up each time you need to make an adjustment.

for plant support with those, its real easy to wrap them in caging, cut a wire out and bend it inside the pot lip every foot or so to support the cage.
 
B

BotanicalBill

Member
nomaad, I can't for the life of me find the link from TG on this thread or your outdoor thread, but from what I could find I believe TG is talking about this Microbelift BMC product?
Something like this link?

http://www.pondworld.com/microbeliftbmc-1gal.aspx

Money isn't an issue at this point, I'm way past my initial estimates money wise so another 30-50 bucks doesn't mean anything, I just wanted to make sure we're on the same page..

*edit* I was doing some more looking into this BMC and I ran across some hydro page that said they've been testing it for thrips and used 2 drops per gallon of water(dechlorinated) without any ill effect on the plants and getting good effectiveness with it. Does anyone here that uses it care to share the rates they've found effective?

Thanks a ton

Also, someone responded to my bushy plant question as to whether we were doing clones or seedlings and the answer is 70ish% clones and 3 C99 seedlings.. But none got as bushy as everyone else's I see here.. No biggie though I was just curious and jealous..

Thanks

BB
 
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