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Safety first and fire / Alarm + Extinguisher

B

bongoie

Shit happen's , sometimes it happen's to me sometimes to you .
I have a safe pass for working on building sites , this is a day course to educate construction worker's .
The truth of the matter is you are you'r own safety officer .
So let's talk about safety , all input welcome
Like rule # 1 in growing = don't tell any one and get caught

RULE # 1 Get a smoke alarm , and check it regulary , change the batteries if needed Quality brand batt's are best . Make sure it work's
Use a 120V smoke detector on a light circuit if possible. This allows you to link all alarms in the house for quicker warnings , you should always have battery back up as electrical service is one of the first things to fail during a fire .

RULE # 2 get a powder fire extingisher , powder is safe to use on an electrical fire , they come in a range of sizes .





RULE # 3 have a plan as like i say shit happen's , how will you tackle a fire in this situation ?
The grow and all you'r gear is irrelevent over your and others safety , fire's/smoke KILL where is your nearest safe exit .


Automatic Dry Powder Extinguisher 6kg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STjMZz8gxbA
A automatic dry powder fire extinguisher designed to be fully automatic. The unit is a stored pressure type with a mixture of dry powder and nitrogen, as the fire reaches the temperature specified on the glass bulb it shatters allowing the dry powder to be released under pressure over a wide area.

•Fully refillable
•Complete with roof mounting bracket
•Activation Temp is 68°C

http://www.apexfire.ie/product-detail/automatic-dry-powder-extinguisher-6kg/20
 
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guest2012y

guest2012y

Living with the soil
Veteran
I ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher by the door in my room!!! I've seen two fires explode right in front my eyes in my 20+ years of growing. Always some factory electrical fault in some "top of the line" product that does it. I have smoke alarms as well,but I take them down when I leave because I'd rather have the house burn down than have the fire department show up to put out a fire and find half a burned up garden so they can call the police,but if I'm there I have them in @ all times I'm there. Smoke alarms are LOUD!!!!,if the neighbors hear it they will try to be hero's and either try to put out the fire themselves,or call the F.D. I like the looks of that automatic dry powder extinguisher...how much$$$????
 
B

bongoie

Capt.Cheeze1 said:
I ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher by the door in my room!!! I've seen two fires explode right in front my eyes in my 20+ years of growing. Always some factory electrical fault in some "top of the line" product that does it. I have smoke alarms as well,but I take them down when I leave because I'd rather have the house burn ..how much$$$????
Click to expand...
Thank's
Less than the price of a house and conviction .
Please be carefull Folk's and safe
 
N

nippirt

Excellent post, bongoie. Here in the USA, googling for automatic fire extinguishers results in marine engine room systems. Not really applicable to grow rooms. I saw on the web (and at my local grow shop) a series (three sizes) of automatic powder extinguishers for ceiling mount. Now I can't remember the name of them. They are obviously being marketed to growers so I figured they were overpriced. Considering the cost of a fire, the extinguishers are reasonably priced--even if they corrode all your equipment.

So, does anybody know the extinguishers I'm talking about? They have a Flash demo online I remember.

Edit: It's "Flame Defender" in 2kg, 6kg & 12kg. Anybody have an alternate brand for the US market?
 
B

bongoie

Thank's nippirt
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STjMZz8gxbA
A Commercial / nice one , the one i pictured is from a boiler house .
If it get's hot enough to pop you would not want to be there . And that temp would kill you'r grow outright .
A good point about where to place this gizmo , you'd want it near electrical gear .
~~​

Here's some more info , Class C is important to us unless you can kill the electrical supply , then you can use water . C02 work's also but can reignite .


Class A extinguishers are for ordinary combustible materials such as paper, wood, cardboard, and most plastics. The numerical rating on these types of extinguishers indicates the amount of water it holds and the amount of fire it can extinguish.

Class B fires involve flammable or combustible liquids such as gasoline, kerosene, grease and oil. The numerical rating for class B extinguishers indicates the approximate number of square feet of fire it can extinguish.

Class C fires involve electrical equipment, such as appliances, wiring, circuit breakers and outlets. Never use water to extinguish class C fires - the risk of electrical shock is far too great! Class C extinguishers do not have a numerical rating. The C classification means the extinguishing agent is non-conductive.

Class D fire extinguishers are commonly found in a chemical laboratory. They are for fires that involve combustible metals, such as magnesium, titanium, potassium and sodium. These types of extinguishers also have no numerical rating, nor are they given a multi-purpose rating - they are designed for class D fires only.

Dry chemical extinguishers come in a variety of types and are suitable for a combination of class A, B and C fires. These are filled with foam or powder and pressurized with nitrogen.
BC - This is the regular type of dry chemical extinguisher. It is filled with sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate. The BC variety leaves a mildly corrosive residue which must be cleaned immediately to prevent any damage to materials.
ABC - This is the multipurpose dry chemical extinguisher. The ABC type is filled with monoammonium phosphate, a yellow powder that leaves a sticky residue that may be damaging to electrical appliances such as a computer

Dry chemical extinguishers have an advantage over CO2 extinguishers since they leave a non-flammable substance on the extinguished material, reducing the likelihood of re-ignition.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2) extinguishers are used for class B and C fires. CO2 extinguishers contain carbon dioxide, a non-flammable gas, and are highly pressurized. The pressure is so great that it is not uncommon for bits of dry ice to shoot out the nozzle. They don't work very well on class A fires because they may not be able to displace enough oxygen to put the fire out, causing it to re-ignite.
CO2 extinguishers have an advantage over dry chemical extinguishers since they don't leave a harmful residue - a good choice for an electrical fire on a computer or other favorite electronic device such as a stereo or TV.​
 
junior_grower

junior_grower

Active member
Rule 1 should be made to read use a 120v smoke detector on a light circuit if possible. This eliminates any batteries and also allows you to link all alarms in the house for quicker warnings.
 
B

bongoie

junior_grower said:
Rule 1 should be made to read use a 120v smoke detector on a light circuit if possible. This eliminates any batteries and also allows you to link all alarms in the house for quicker warnings.
Click to expand...
Thanking you kindly junior_grower Job Done .
 
N

nippirt

If you live in a big house, linking alarms is important. I took the easy way out and bought five radio frequency linked from First Alert. I think the model is: SCO501CN-3ST ONELINK Battery Operated Combination Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm with Voice Location

They've been installed for maybe four years. The early versions were recalled because they ate batteries but mine work great. Except once when a tiny spider crawled inside.
:alien:

Getting back to automatic extinguishers, I have a 2ft x 2.5ft alcove in my planned grow room where I will have the HID ballasts. This will have a ceiling mounted Flame Defender, the small size should do. What I'm concerned about is grow tents. They seem flammable to me.

I have a Dark Room DR120 (47" x 47" x 6.5ft high). There is not enough space to mount a dry chemical extinguisher above it--the room's ceiling is 7.5ft. The room overall has about 1500 cubic feet in volume. If the room were smaller, I can picture mounting a Halon (or its replacement gas) extinguisher above or next to the tent. (The problem being the same as for CO2 mentioned above--reignition of material.)

I'm also considering high temperature line voltage thermostats to shut down my exhaust fans in the event of a fire.
 
Dr Dog

Dr Dog

Sharks have a week dedicated to me
Veteran
junior_grower said:
Rule 1 should be made to read use a 120v smoke detector on a light circuit if possible. This eliminates any batteries and also allows you to link all alarms in the house for quicker warnings.
Click to expand...

you should always have battery back up also

electrical service is one of the first things to fail during a fire, so not much good electrical alarms will do you
 
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