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Tutorial Organics for Beginners

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
For a point of reference if I was using 1/2 gallon containers and flowering from rooted clone - no veg - I could only take a plant 3.5wks before it started to fade - I had to feed every other day to get it to 8 wks...and it really wasn't the quality / fullness of flower that I was used to.

When plants are in too small a container - the flowers just don't fill out quite the same in soil...even if the resin production is still on point.

I really wouldn't want to go smaller than 1.5 gallons for a 12wk plant - even with supplemental feeding...but that is just my opinion...

In those 1 gallon containers - I expect you'll need to start fading around wk 5 pretty heavily...probably need to feed every third day at first and then as they get closer to wk 7 and 8 you'll be feeding them daily - just to keep them performing to your expectation.

I really say 2 gallons and you'd avoid a lot of the additional need to feed...and could get by with once a week bumps to cheer them along...rather than trying to keep them from starving.

ASIDE from that - you may run into the situation of needing to water them TWICE a day once they get a bit bigger - depending on your lighting - but, I would be prepared to expect that. Once a lights on and once about 6 hours in - another down side to small containers, in my opinion.



dank.Frank
 
Activated charcoal

Activated charcoal

I don't know of anything that will replace perlite. It's cheap and easy to find. And you'll need plenty of it with that mix. And don't forget the powdered dolomite lime.
Burn1

Has anyone used activated charcoal instead of perlite,it's more porous and is a great habitat for microbes, when the soil starts to dry out, the microbes survive in the charcoal until watered again, do y'all see any drawbacks other than price, I grow a small garden so the price isn't prohibitive
 
C

ct guy2

Has anyone used activated charcoal instead of perlite,it's more porous and is a great habitat for microbes, when the soil starts to dry out, the microbes survive in the charcoal until watered again, do y'all see any drawbacks other than price, I grow a small garden so the price isn't prohibitive

It will require a lot more nutrients because your CEC will be higher. Not a negative necessarily but something to be aware of. It could also change your pH with the high amount of carbon.
 
Burn One

Burn One

buttcrack-
Did you choose that name or did someone else? :pointlaug
Molasses feeds the bacteria. It does not, on its own add weight to buds. After all, we're after bacteria guano in organic growing.
The best way I know of to get the best yields out of a strain is to give the plant what it wants. The best way to do that is to stay with one or two strains until you get to know the characteristics of that plant type. Sativas and Indicas are much different and require certain care.
Do not mix chemicals with organics. They are two completely different things and IMO can't be used together.
Burn1

Could you please elaborate on the different needs between an indica and sativa. I grow mostly outdoors. I don't know how to
modify my soil and conditions between the two. thanks
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Could you please elaborate on the different needs between an indica and sativa. I grow mostly outdoors. I don't know how to
modify my soil and conditions between the two. thanks

How many times are you going to post this question? You should stick to your original thread and rely on that for your answers. Posting multiple times around the same forum doesn't help. I already gave you an answer. Did you try it?
You received several answers in your second thread. Did you consider those?
Burn1
 
Last edited:
Ill be using a local organic mix, with blood, bone, kelp, greensand, epsom salts, castings, pumice, sulfate of potash and one or two other things i cant remember.
ive heard alota negative talk about organics outdoors with critters digging up spots multiple times...
im prety sure the only things in the mix thatll attract animals would be the blood and bone meal, am i correct?
but i was wondering if composting and curing the mix for a few weeks would get rid of critters smelling and trying to dig up my holes?
i will be using some kind of fencing too, chicken wire down in the soil and up above ground fencing in plant, and maybe a top of chicken wire...with rocks and stuff to build up structure.
we wont have problems withbears or elk or moose. but will have coyote, racoons, skunks and possums...

Its why I went vegan outdoor grows, the varmints around my old place were terrible and dug up anything smelling like animal
 

wizardoz9

New member
Hello - I cannot determine the cause of the deficiency of my 2 plants. To me it looks like magnesium and I tried foliar sprays with Epsom salts, and one with kelp meal and molasses but it doesn't seem to help. The plants are 5 weeks from seed-Nirvana Whit Rhino- and the soil is made up of :
6 pts black gold organic mix
2 pts earthworm castings
2 pts perlite
2/3 c alfalfa meal
1/2 c blood meal
1 c bone meal
1/2 c oyster shell
1/2 greensand
1 c powdered dolomite
1/2 c maxicrop 1.0.2
I let the soil cook for 4 weeks before replanting the seedlings which were grown in lc#2 without any nutes. Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
Thank you
 

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wizardoz9

New member
here's some additional info which I forgot to add
I've been watering as need with an aereated ECW, LK, and molasses tea, they are growing 18/6 under a 400w Hortilux Blue, 78 day/68 night time, good air flow, etc. Can't think why it's happening. I'm a senior citizen just trying to grow some mm to help with chronic pain and been grow organically for about 5 years and this one kind of stumps me. It seems to growing a little slow , but ok and then I was surprised to see the mag symptoms show up.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks
 
Hello - I cannot determine the cause of the deficiency of my 2 plants. To me it looks like magnesium and I tried foliar sprays with Epsom salts, and one with kelp meal and molasses but it doesn't seem to help. The plants are 5 weeks from seed-Nirvana Whit Rhino- and the soil is made up of :
6 pts black gold organic mix
2 pts earthworm castings
2 pts perlite
2/3 c alfalfa meal
1/2 c blood meal
1 c bone meal
1/2 c oyster shell
1/2 greensand
1 c powdered dolomite
1/2 c maxicrop 1.0.2
I let the soil cook for 4 weeks before replanting the seedlings which were grown in lc#2 without any nutes. Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
Thank you https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=285698View Imagehttps://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=285700View Imagehttps://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=285699View Imagehttps://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=285697View Image

Wizard, with all of those amendments I doubt that its a deficiency. Seems like you have everything covered. I've had that exact thing happen more than a couple of times with heavily amended soils. I just let them go and it always works it self out as they get bigger. I always wonder if maybe the plants are getting too much of one thing causing something else to get locked out. It does look like a problem with magnesium though. If it were a Mag deficiency the kelp foliar would have helped. I guess thats why I think it's being locked out. Just my two cents...good luck..SW
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
:yeahthats I agree. I'd say continue on. Changing things can make matters worse. Lay off the Liquid Karma for a few waterings.
Burn1
 
here's some additional info which I forgot to add
I've been watering as need with an aereated ECW, LK, and molasses tea, they are growing 18/6 under a 400w Hortilux Blue, 78 day/68 night time, good air flow, etc. Can't think why it's happening. I'm a senior citizen just trying to grow some mm to help with chronic pain and been grow organically for about 5 years and this one kind of stumps me. It seems to growing a little slow , but ok and then I was surprised to see the mag symptoms show up.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks

Wizard, I'm also wondering what brand of EWC you're using. When I was using cheap castings like wiggle worm, I ran into the same problem you're having more often...SW
 

wizardoz9

New member
Sister -Thanks for the responses. I've been leaving it alone except for foliar spraying and watering and it seems to be doing better. I do use wiggle worm- it's seems to be what they sell here and I've had no issues with it before but, could be. My first thought was that too much calcium was locking it out with the oyster shell meal in it. I'll let it go for awhile and see what happens.

Burn - I'll do every other with the LK. Any other suggestions?

Thanks again and I'll let you how they progress
 
Sister -Thanks for the responses. I've been leaving it alone except for foliar spraying and watering and it seems to be doing better. I do use wiggle worm- it's seems to be what they sell here and I've had no issues with it before but, could be. My first thought was that too much calcium was locking it out with the oyster shell meal in it. I'll let it go for awhile and see what happens.

Burn - I'll do every other with the LK. Any other suggestions?

Thanks again and I'll let you how they progress

Happy to here they're getting better. I bet if you do nothing for a little while longer, they'll keep looking better and better.

As far as wiggle worm castings go, I'd recommending ditching them in the future. Those poor worms feed on mostly paper waste, which isn't very beneficial for what we want them for. If you can find worm power casting (vermicompost) in your area that would be perfect. It's the about the best commercial casting you could find. Buildasoil.com sells it, kind of pricey though...SW

Wormpower link below

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Si3LWXi3B0j-qzdWhgpUhHg&bvm=bv.76247554,d.aWw
 

wizardoz9

New member
Happy to here they're getting better. I bet if you do nothing for a little while longer, they'll keep looking better and better.

As far as wiggle worm castings go, I'd recommending ditching them in the future. Those poor worms feed on mostly paper waste, which isn't very beneficial for what we want them for. If you can find worm power casting (vermicompost) in your area that would be perfect. It's the about the best commercial casting you could find. Buildasoil.com sells it, kind of pricey though...SW

Wormpower link below

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Si3LWXi3B0j-qzdWhgpUhHg&bvm=bv.76247554,d.aWw
I'll look around the area for the worm power. Maybe someone has it here.
Thanks
 

wizardoz9

New member
Happy to here they're getting better. I bet if you do nothing for a little while longer, they'll keep looking better and better.

As far as wiggle worm castings go, I'd recommending ditching them in the future. Those poor worms feed on mostly paper waste, which isn't very beneficial for what we want them for. If you can find worm power casting (vermicompost) in your area that would be perfect. It's the about the best commercial casting you could find. Buildasoil.com sells it, kind of pricey though...SW

Wormpower link below

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Si3LWXi3B0j-qzdWhgpUhHg&bvm=bv.76247554,d.aWw
I was at the local hydro store today and they just received their shipment of wormpower and had it at a intro price so I'm going to start using it in my teas. I told them what was going on and he gave me free sample of "Full Power"- an organic humic acid that I could use as a foliar spray sold by Bio-Ag. Any one use this stuff? I don't plan on using it unless I find out it's good for the plants.
 
I was at the local hydro store today and they just received their shipment of wormpower and had it at a intro price so I'm going to start using it in my teas. I told them what was going on and he gave me free sample of "Full Power"- an organic humic acid that I could use as a foliar spray sold by Bio-Ag. Any one use this stuff? I don't plan on using it unless I find out it's good for the plants.

Wizard, you lucky dog. I wish I had a local source for worm power. I had to start making my own vermicompost, which is a good thing.

Ful-power is one of the best fulvics you're going to find. I use it for foliar and for the soil. Be careful with it as it is very effective. I've only been using 5-10ml per gallon for both foliars and drench's. Though this is on the light side. I think most people use 30ml per gallon.

If you ask how you should use it in the no-till thread, you'll get some answers for sure. Most of those dudes over there use it.

Good work Wizard..SW
 
If you ask how you should use it in the no-till thread, you'll get some answers for sure. Most of those dudes over there use it.


Oops my bad, I was thinking of another forum. Plenty of people on this forum use it. Someone will hopefully chime in...SW
 
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