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Developing Claws
- Thread starter billgee
- Start date
billgee
Member
To me too. Also because Im having trouble drying out the 5 gal plastic cans Im using for the girls to live in.I can dry one or 2 but I have a dozen. It was easy with a few plants in the laundry room but size prohibits.
billgee
Member
From examining the roots post mortem- there are huge undeveloped areas between the center and the walls so Im switching to 3 gal airpots which had better wakes.
'Have ur roots filled in your medium completely where they dry out once a day'
Never dry out.
billgee
Member
clawsclawsclawsclaws
clawsclawsclawsclaws
Look, I know its me and something Im doing
But those claws are too real.
Kush seems to do it more than others so I lowered their feeding schedule.
I am feeding Canna nutrients using their "light" schedule. I am using well water which doesnt have enough pressure to filter or R/O. Ive just recently discovered that I have sediment but not enough to harm them or me.
How do I do PH out if I give them well water?
EC (ppm) out doesnt matter but can be done with well water
What should my EC be?
What is EC+
Here what the girls look like.
Pix are poor too much HPS but I wanted to get them Up, will take more w/flash
clawsclawsclawsclaws
Look, I know its me and something Im doing
But those claws are too real.
Kush seems to do it more than others so I lowered their feeding schedule.
I am feeding Canna nutrients using their "light" schedule. I am using well water which doesnt have enough pressure to filter or R/O. Ive just recently discovered that I have sediment but not enough to harm them or me.
How do I do PH out if I give them well water?
EC (ppm) out doesnt matter but can be done with well water
What should my EC be?
What is EC+
Here what the girls look like.
Pix are poor too much HPS but I wanted to get them Up, will take more w/flash
Attachments
silly simple questions: are they all in the same 'make' pots? have you changed watering cans, hose types or any other variable (particularly plastic) that might be contaminating those few plants specifically? I presume youre growing in dirt throughout, though I'm not sure. Are you feeding hot nutes? (+1000 ppms?), too much light for certain strains?? Just shootin shit out there, some things are easily overlooked . GL 
some plastics put off a gas (search - off gasing) that just screws up MJs ability to grow normally. it was IDed once a while back by some 1/2" hose by N-P-K.. and before that in some tents that were quite popular a few years ago...
Here are a few: off gas threads - https://www.icmag.com/modules/Find_Threads/index.php?stext=off+gas
some plastics put off a gas (search - off gasing) that just screws up MJs ability to grow normally. it was IDed once a while back by some 1/2" hose by N-P-K.. and before that in some tents that were quite popular a few years ago...
Here are a few: off gas threads - https://www.icmag.com/modules/Find_Threads/index.php?stext=off+gas
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Looks like the classic underdeveloped roots, and overfert prob.
So to start, coco is more productive that soil per gallon of medium, take for example a #2 pot that is actually 6.5ltrs can produce 8 zips. Those roots need to fill in the medium and go thru wet dry cycles so they stretch, once they are dominant then u can daily or several times daily feed them.
I haven't done canna nutes so see if they fit for using with coco, coco requires a different ca mg to K ratio than soil.
Ec is what meters use to measure then they convert it to ppm, or tds. Ec is always the same but some manufacturers use different conversion factors, typical is 1 ec = 500ppm, or 700ppm, that's why I ask in ec. Coco does kick ass at a few ranges but for sure u can take it all the way with killer results at 1 to 1.2 ec. so 500 to 650 on a 500 scale or 700 to 840 on 700 scale.
Ph between 5.5 and 6 but set it on 5.8 for the whole run and it should be golden.
If ur not measuring ur water u don't know how much ec is in there. Mine runs about 1 ec, that's 100% of the strength of my target to give them for food, so u can see how this can cause probs.
When I talk about checking ec and ph in, I mean after u mix up ur nutrients measure them, so u can adjust to the levels I mentioned.
When checking ec and ph out. I mean collect some run off feed water after it passes thru ur plant medium and measure to see if the #'s u put in are way out of wack coming out. This is not scientific for coco cause of coco's properties but it will help to tell u if u got way to much salt in there or if ur ph is way off target.
Sounds like it's pretty hard to keep a plant happy in a 5 gal container of coco if the roots are not distributed though out the media and healthy. Maybe in a 5 gal hempy it's not as important as the plant does things different when it has that rez at the bottom. I'm finding there are less problems if I get good roots in the party cup then to a 1 gal and then to a two gal. Billgee I think you could eliminate a lot of problems and find things easier to control in a 2 gal container tops. At least it would only take a fraction of the time to dry out the media
yeah definitely overfeeding, and pH looks off too or the roots are too cold/moist.
don't heat the roots up to dry the pots out, slightly warmer might help. but what you need to do is let the pots dry out on their own so the roots can recover too. if you "quick dry" the pots and then water again it's like putting dry spaghetti in water, it's just dry out some of the root which are gonna suck the water up when you water again and rot out. if you let the pots dry on their own the roots will dry and grow some more by the time you water again.
i would personally since the damage is already done.
1.) flush out the pots with plain water ph down to somewhere around 6.3. just pour plain water equal in volume to the size of the pot through the medium. don't just dump it all at once, do it little by little so it has a chance to wash the old nutes out and get the new water absorbed into the coco at the end.
2.) let the pots dry till they're really light. but don't let it get super bone dry where the coco gets hydrophobic (water runs off the top in beads).
3.) once it's dry again water with food at a lower dosage. i'm not in your room so i can't tell you what a lower dosage means to you. but if those were my plants i would stop feeding till i noticed they started growing fast again, or i see some old leaves yellowing or some new growth coming out normal and not all twisted.
they're your plants i'm sure you know what they look like when they're happy...
for the future i've noticed that the plants can get a lot bigger in coco, what you need 5 gallons of peat based soil for you can achieve in like 1-2 gallons of coco. coco is a lot more airy than soil and has a lit of room for roots to grow into.
that plant i posted up there is about 3 feet tall and close to 2 foot wide in a 1 gallon grow bag. can't really tell from the pics but it looks like it might be close to how big those plants you have in the 5 gallon.
don't heat the roots up to dry the pots out, slightly warmer might help. but what you need to do is let the pots dry out on their own so the roots can recover too. if you "quick dry" the pots and then water again it's like putting dry spaghetti in water, it's just dry out some of the root which are gonna suck the water up when you water again and rot out. if you let the pots dry on their own the roots will dry and grow some more by the time you water again.
i would personally since the damage is already done.
1.) flush out the pots with plain water ph down to somewhere around 6.3. just pour plain water equal in volume to the size of the pot through the medium. don't just dump it all at once, do it little by little so it has a chance to wash the old nutes out and get the new water absorbed into the coco at the end.
2.) let the pots dry till they're really light. but don't let it get super bone dry where the coco gets hydrophobic (water runs off the top in beads).
3.) once it's dry again water with food at a lower dosage. i'm not in your room so i can't tell you what a lower dosage means to you. but if those were my plants i would stop feeding till i noticed they started growing fast again, or i see some old leaves yellowing or some new growth coming out normal and not all twisted.
they're your plants i'm sure you know what they look like when they're happy...
for the future i've noticed that the plants can get a lot bigger in coco, what you need 5 gallons of peat based soil for you can achieve in like 1-2 gallons of coco. coco is a lot more airy than soil and has a lit of room for roots to grow into.
that plant i posted up there is about 3 feet tall and close to 2 foot wide in a 1 gallon grow bag. can't really tell from the pics but it looks like it might be close to how big those plants you have in the 5 gallon.
billgee
Member
which is EC
Im doing ppm
Which do I switch to.
They never dry out but its coco
Weeded1s
Member
Ppm can be on .5 or .7 scale. Ec Is universal way to talk so peeps dont get confused. 1 ec = 500 ppm on .5 scale and I believe 750 on .7 scale. Read through some of the other threads..not only good learning but the equation to go between them all is floating around. Some pens can do them all so dont go out buying new stuff just yet.
Peace
Peace
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Billgee,
I broke it all down for u bud post 28 and 29 by stihg, absorb those that will get u heading in the right direction.
Right, take a shot of one of your plants in normal light. Make it a full plant shot from the side which is facing the light, ie the front. Get the whole plant in the picture and the pot as well. Then take another photo of the room the plants are in, again, under normal lighting. Try to show where the plants are in relation to the lights etc.
There are so many variables on a grow that it's impossible to pin down what your problem is from what you've shown.
There are probably a lot of mistakes you're making which won't be corrected on this grow but which you can avoid in future. Give me a good photo from the front with a normal light, not hps, and let's go from there
There are so many variables on a grow that it's impossible to pin down what your problem is from what you've shown.
There are probably a lot of mistakes you're making which won't be corrected on this grow but which you can avoid in future. Give me a good photo from the front with a normal light, not hps, and let's go from there
we don't really need to know your ppms. that EC PPM shit only comes into play when you're trying to follow along with something someone else is doing and replicate the results. in my opinion.
for your own purposes you only need to know what the ppm/ec was in the beginning and what it is afterwards.
for instance your ppms of your nutes are 600 going in and run off is 800. means you need to drop em even more. doesn't matter if it's ppm or ec you measure in cuz it only matters for you and your plants. my plants are at a different ppm/ec whatever that i don't measure because i just watch the plants.
for your own purposes you only need to know what the ppm/ec was in the beginning and what it is afterwards.
for instance your ppms of your nutes are 600 going in and run off is 800. means you need to drop em even more. doesn't matter if it's ppm or ec you measure in cuz it only matters for you and your plants. my plants are at a different ppm/ec whatever that i don't measure because i just watch the plants.
I wouldn't pay too much attention to run off ec though stig because that can be misleading. The run off can be made up of things which are not directly related to the strength or availability of the medium. I also think EC is a good guideline for most cannabis plants too. 1.0ec of a balanced veg feed will keep almost all commercial strains of weed happy for a long time, provided the coco you use is inert to begin with.
billgee
Member
billgee
Member
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
I was suggesting reading and applying what I said on post 28 and what stihgnobevoli wrote on post 29.
