yes sirrrr I have seen it many many many times...
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
Dud Identification Collective Knowledge.
- Thread starter high life 45
- Start date
- Status
many times. its the todes,
fucking goddamn microscopic worms, huh?
all this time, little fucking worms been fucking shit up?
glad we are getting to the bottom of this
AND LEARNING IT WASN'T BECAUSE OF AN OVERDOSE OF CAL/MAG hahahaha
(cheap shot had to take hahaha)
all this time, little fucking worms been fucking shit up?
glad we are getting to the bottom of this
AND LEARNING IT WASN'T BECAUSE OF AN OVERDOSE OF CAL/MAG hahahaha
(cheap shot had to take hahaha)
Ha, ha! That's exactly why you're here.
We can only hope, since you have been wrong from day one.
Question is, is it the SAR response that is warning the plant/other plants that: "here comes pathogen "XYZ", be ready for it", and they are?
SAR Re-Salicylic Acid response:
"SA is involved in endogenous signaling, mediating in plant defense against pathogens. It plays a role in the resistance to pathogens by inducing the production of pathogenesis-related proteins. It is involved in the systemic acquired resistance (SAR) in which a pathogenic attack on one part of the plant induces resistance in other parts. The signal can also move to nearby plants by salicylic acid being converted to the volatile ester, methyl salicylate."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid
You've got no idea who or what is wrong or right, and haven't from day one.
It's awesome in more than one way because it shows how symptoms of root damage are symptoms of root damage, regardless of how they're caused. Without doubt your plant was overfed, which will have caused similar damage.
Over fertilisation will also cause the exact same problems. As will a single period of drought on a chemical feed schedule.
Just to note, those are the opposite of what was described on the last page and in the only pictures of vegging plants in the thread, which had overly elongated internodes.
lol, who knows, most of this stuff is beyond my mental capacity to understand, I just want to go buy a cure and be done with it, got to give you guys credit for getting it this far. forgive for the comparison but it seems to be the hiv of weed.
The one on the left in those photos was the non dud. The one on the right had tighter nodes and heavy lateral branching. The tight nodes and lateral growth have been consistent with duds. Over fert does not cause that, period.
joesy- are you using aspirin your water? It's an easy way to get SA into your plants system.Has to be uncoated, cvs has it. 1 per gallon or 350 milligrams. Retro preaches it for good reason, I've heard of it years ago along with using willow branches but never really used it until the last six months as a preventative
Tight nodes?
That is literally the exact opposite of the problem this plant has.
I agree. Over feeding has nothing to do with why this plant looks like that.
Have been reading a tek, on aeroponic cloning, that is supposed to be awesome. They mention SA, Erythromycin, bleach, and willow bark (GH roots excelurator is mostly willow). Meant to prevent pythium, and other cloner ailments.
Just looked, and the antibiotics, were between runs, to sanitize cloner.
Someone said he has experience with over 30K clones, lifetime.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=271222
Last edited:
so...
if you have a 50g rez, you need 50 x 350mg = 17,500mg
a 20g rez would require 20 x 350mg - 7000mg
for every feeding, or rez change?
just trying to get clarification
It's not really complicated. Plants use Salicylic Acid to boost immune system, and to communicate with one another, or one part of a plant communicating to the rest of the plant. It sounds strange, but plants really do talk to one another through signals that we call odors. This is called the SAR response, so one infected plant or part of a plant can warn the others that danger is coming, time to gear it up. Aspirin only stimulates this natural response.
Hey,if you have a giant rez, you can lower the dosage however you want. None of this is written in stone, but rather trial & error. I have used as many as 3 tablets per gallon when I had BMs. Aloe also works, as it also has SA, plus 150 other vitamins, minerals, hormones, etc. I haven't had the chance to play around with it much, so can't give any recommendations, other than to check it out, test it, trial & error it. There are some dudes here who are hip to aloe. Give it a search for those interested.
Almost all commercial skin aloe, has alcohol in it. Is it bought at health food market and extracted?
Nevermind!! My local food store has fresh aloe. Do people actually eat it??
My revised question would be, how do you extract, and how much per gallon?
Willow bark (GH Root excelurator) also contains SA.
Last edited:
Yeah i was referring to the side by side photos in veg you cited. Not either of those you just referenced. Those dont even look like any duds ive had. They have big fan leaves and big stretchy nodes. Any duds ive had stayed stout with tight nodes and small fans with brittle stems. This one https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=53950&pictureid=1258582
that GG4 in solo cup was mine. it hadn't progressed a lot yet. when i originally posted that photo in the gg4 or sunsets thread (can't remember which) i said "while i was taking this photo, just from picking it up the lowest branch snapped off."
there are indeed multiple stages of this issue. sometimes it's worse, sometimes not so bad.
out of ~20 clones i took, i only kept the best 4 once i noticed the issue was getting worse. later on, once in 1gal pots, 2 of them snapped at the base of the stem after i farted on them. weak POS plants.
i think the witches broom, tight node symptoms happen primarily in plants that are infested from early on in veg. often they get thrown into flower, get their stretch on and THEN the nematodes start going HAM on the plant.
like a delayed time bomb. take cuts with nematode eggs, veg for 20 days and flip while the todes develop and start to mature... then they start eating their way through the plants during stretch.
i think it takes 21-28 days for nematodes to mature, then they live for another ~50 days laying eggs the whole time.
so if that's the case, the difference is taking a clone that has mostly just eggs in it VS. taking a clone with adult nematodes that can start doing damage from day 1 of veg.
there are indeed multiple stages of this issue. sometimes it's worse, sometimes not so bad.
out of ~20 clones i took, i only kept the best 4 once i noticed the issue was getting worse. later on, once in 1gal pots, 2 of them snapped at the base of the stem after i farted on them. weak POS plants.
i think the witches broom, tight node symptoms happen primarily in plants that are infested from early on in veg. often they get thrown into flower, get their stretch on and THEN the nematodes start going HAM on the plant.
like a delayed time bomb. take cuts with nematode eggs, veg for 20 days and flip while the todes develop and start to mature... then they start eating their way through the plants during stretch.
i think it takes 21-28 days for nematodes to mature, then they live for another ~50 days laying eggs the whole time.
so if that's the case, the difference is taking a clone that has mostly just eggs in it VS. taking a clone with adult nematodes that can start doing damage from day 1 of veg.
also, when single branches dud does anyone else notice it's always the branches that connect to the main stem lower on the plant? they start traveling up the branches that they come across first.
I don't think you need that much in a large rez as a preventative. If you had BMs, etc., then you would up the dosage. Lot of trial & error here. I just found that 1 tablet per gallon works for me. You can also do a foliar spray. That's how "traditional" gardeners do it for the most part.
- Status
