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Blumat auto watering

sctracker

New member
Not quite what I'm looking for guys. I'm looking for a fitting that has a barb fitting that works for the 3mm on one side and has threads on the other so I can install the barb directly into the pvc. Something like this http://www.grainger.com/product/Straight-Hose-Barb-WP36983/_/N-1z0chuw?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/6AFJ9_AS01?$smthumb$ That way I can completely omit the 8mm tubing
 

sanjuan

Member
Last edited:

skyview

Member
Not quite what I'm looking for guys. I'm looking for a fitting that has a barb fitting that works for the 3mm on one side and has threads on the other so I can install the barb directly into the pvc. Something like this http://www.grainger.com/product/Straight-Hose-Barb-WP36983/_/N-1z0chuw?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/6AFJ9_AS01?$smthumb$ That way I can completely omit the 8mm tubing
You can get the one on sustainable with 3mm on one side, 1/4" male pipe thread on the other. It's nylon though and would probably strip out if you tried screwing it into PVC. We've always installed systems like this with PVC tees - slip on both ends, female 1/2" pipe thread in the middle.
 

brolex

Member
Hey guys, sorry to interrupt with a newbie question.


I understand that blumats require the medium to be very wet before they are staked inside.

My question is, how would I do this for strains that are sensitive to overwatering?
 

skyview

Member
No problem, brolex!
It doesn't have to be that wet. I normally try to make it about the maximum wetness I ever want it to get and adjust to that. It usually takes a few days to fine tune and get it just right but you never need to get it so wet that it squeezes the air out of the potting mix (which keeps the plant from being able to absorb nutrients).
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Exactly.

I've found that the most accurate way of setting the blumats is to use a large tub to pre-moisten the media to the final moisture content that I want. After potting the plant, I put the blumat in place but have the drip hose pinched off with a clothes pin. After several hours, the clothes pin is removed and the blumat is adjusted to a clinging drip.

The settling-in time with the feed line pinched off allows the blumat to adjust to the media moisture content, and the clinging-drip adjustment will set the blumat to hold that level. Some tweaking may be necessary, but it's pretty minimal.

This won't work if you are trying to install blumats in already-established pots - for that I use a commercially-available moisture meter and slowly moisten the plant to the point that I want, and then do the same thing with the blumat as above.
 

Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I found when using the blumats in coco, even when the coco/perlite mix is wet as can be when installing the blumats it's allright afterwards and not too wet.
When I have found the point of the last "hanging drop" I tighten the screw two more marks and voila, perfect moisture. When first using blumats I thought the coco was way too dry, but no... it'S perfect. Even for the silver skunks I have been growing and who are really sensitive to wetness.

I guess you can play with how many marks you tighten the valve screw... and set it to your plants' preferences ( if you know them;-))
As long as there is no wilting, I would not increase the wetness though....
 

Ez Rider

Active member
Veteran
I just ordered some blumats, they should be here this weekend. I'm working my way through this thread, but still need some answers. My work schedule is making regular watering very impractical, and I'm hoping the blumats are the answer.

I'll be using PureBlendPro Bloom as a standalone nute, and pro-mix as a standalone medium, and I was hoping for some advice on how strong/wet to run it. My understanding is that you want to run a fairly mild solution with the blumats.

Anyone out there using PBP and pro-mix with your blumats? A little input would be greatly appreciated.
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
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Veteran
I haven't used it, but from what I've read PBP is organic-based. Unless it has a very thin makeup when mixed, like chemical-based nutes, it may not be the best choice for use with Blumats. The pinch valve creates a handy point for particles in the solution to build up and create a blockage. I know that at least one person on here was using organic-based nutrients, and they were massaging & maintaining their lines on a daily basis to avoid problems. That level of maintenance won't work for me.
 
M

maestroman22

I haven't used it, but from what I've read PBP is organic-based. Unless it has a very thin makeup when mixed, like chemical-based nutes, it may not be the best choice for use with Blumats. The pinch valve creates a handy point for particles in the solution to build up and create a blockage. I know that at least one person on here was using organic-based nutrients, and they were massaging & maintaining their lines on a daily basis to avoid problems. That level of maintenance won't work for me.


As Rives has stated, using organic nutes will definitely require a more "hands on" approach. If you are unable to monitor your lines on a frequent, if not daily, basis, then I would suggest not going with an organic line using blumats. I do so, and I would like to think I do so successfully. That said, I am able to monitor on a frequent basis to ensure there are no issues. If you do decide to go the organic through blumat route, I would suggest also purchasing drip clean by HG and taking time on a daily basis to massage lines, check for blocks, etc. I run EJ and AACT's through mine with no issues. But then again I strain everything before it hits my res, use drip clean, and massage my little tubes frequently. It can be done, but requires a considerably greater effort than running synthetics or just plain water. If you're really wanting to go organic and don't have the time to babysit, I truly suggest learning more about living soil. It's the direction I'm headed in, but I'm just too dumb/lazy to figure everything out that's needed for a wholesome living soil so I end up sticking with the EJ.

Peace and love! Keep your mouth shut and stay safe!
 

Ez Rider

Active member
Veteran
I haven't used it, but from what I've read PBP is organic-based. Unless it has a very thin makeup when mixed, like chemical-based nutes, it may not be the best choice for use with Blumats. The pinch valve creates a handy point for particles in the solution to build up and create a blockage. I know that at least one person on here was using organic-based nutrients, and they were massaging & maintaining their lines on a daily basis to avoid problems. That level of maintenance won't work for me.

As Rives has stated, using organic nutes will definitely require a more "hands on" approach. If you are unable to monitor your lines on a frequent, if not daily, basis, then I would suggest not going with an organic line using blumats. I do so, and I would like to think I do so successfully. That said, I am able to monitor on a frequent basis to ensure there are no issues. If you do decide to go the organic through blumat route, I would suggest also purchasing drip clean by HG and taking time on a daily basis to massage lines, check for blocks, etc. I run EJ and AACT's through mine with no issues. But then again I strain everything before it hits my res, use drip clean, and massage my little tubes frequently. It can be done, but requires a considerably greater effort than running synthetics or just plain water. If you're really wanting to go organic and don't have the time to babysit, I truly suggest learning more about living soil. It's the direction I'm headed in, but I'm just too dumb/lazy to figure everything out that's needed for a wholesome living soil so I end up sticking with the EJ.

Peace and love! Keep your mouth shut and stay safe!

Thanks to you both for the input:tiphat:. The PBP isn't really any "thicker" than water. Nothing like say, earthjuice. It's straight liquid, no particles. I may risk it. If I do, I'll run a pump in the res to keep it mixing 24/7.

So what is the general consensus on nutes for blumats? Its seems a lot of people are doing a 6/9 or similar. I'm not stuck on "organic", I just happen to have been hand watering PBP and Growbig into my pro-mix. Gallon bottles of Growbig and PBP are what I've got on hand. New circumstances severely limit my gardening time, hence the blumats. With a gravity res, they seem like the most practical form of "automated" watering available to me. What's a likely synthetic mix to use with the blumats/pro-mix? How wet should I get the pro-mix before setting the drippers?

Sorry for the newb questions...this thread in LONG.
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have been using Veg + Bloom RO formula for the last couple of years or so. It works very well with my water, which is about as close to RO as you can get straight from the tap. There is a pretty lengthy thread on here if you're interested - it has it's advocates, and there are people who hate it. I think that it comes down to your base water as to how successful you will be with it.

I use V+B with Drip Clean, and occasionally a bit of epsom for the strains that are mag hogs. At least in my water, it is very pH stable, doesn't drop out of solution, etc all for weeks at a time. I'm frequently gone for a couple of weeks at a time, and with a large enough reservoir (I use the 2-stage arrangement with a small reservoir feeding the Blumats and a large reservoir to top off the little one), it works very well unattended.

I haven't used Pro-Mix, but I used Sunshine Mix #4 for quite a while. The pH was a pain in the ass, amongst other things. I've been using Botanicare Ready-Gro Aeration mix for quite a while now in 5-quart AirPots and love it. Being coco based, you can run it very wet (just short of runoff) and the combination works great.
 
F

Folate

I've ran PBPSoil thru the Blumats no problem (coco). It is thin like water with a small bit a sediment.
I tilt my reservoir so that the bulkhead is angled up slightly and no sediment makes it way into the tube.
I followed a recipe by a fellow named Neptune. It was 10ml PBP& 3ml CalMG per gallon. Start to finish. I used it that way for a while, but because I use tap water, began reducing my CalMG to the point where I no longer use it. I also added 1-3ml/gallon of AgiSil.
I did pick up PekAcid as a preventative, but never really saw a difference in the small time I used it. Never had any clogged lines. I did massage, and floss the 3mm line so as to dislodge any build-up.

I am very interested in playing around with Earth Juice. Especially putting it into a reservoir!

Blumats are a god-send -once I replaced the unwieldy 8mm plastic tubing with silicon tubing.

Folate
 

Maj.Cottonmouth

We are Farmers
Veteran
I've ran PBPSoil thru the Blumats no problem (coco). It is thin like water with a small bit a sediment.
I tilt my reservoir so that the bulkhead is angled up slightly and no sediment makes it way into the tube.
I followed a recipe by a fellow named Neptune. It was 10ml PBP& 3ml CalMG per gallon. Start to finish. I used it that way for a while, but because I use tap water, began reducing my CalMG to the point where I no longer use it. I also added 1-3ml/gallon of AgiSil.
I did pick up PekAcid as a preventative, but never really saw a difference in the small time I used it. Never had any clogged lines. I did massage, and floss the 3mm line so as to dislodge any build-up.

I am very interested in playing around with Earth Juice. Especially putting it into a reservoir!

Blumats are a god-send -once I replaced the unwieldy 8mm plastic tubing with silicon tubing.

Folate

What kind of silicon tubing, how long have you been using it and do you like it?

I hate the tubing the blumats come with, it is a complete pain in the ass.
 

sanjuan

Member
I totally agree, Major!

It is .224 (SRT224). I bought from the distributor site (Mocap) but 100ft is cheaper from Sustainablevillage. Look for "8 mm super-flex tubing"; also comes in 10ft.

I was having mold problems and thought the silicone might be translucent so I sheathed it in 3/8" split-loom tubing. I fixed my mold and algea problems in the res and I'm no longer using the black sheathing.

I'm on my third grow with the silicone, I use more empty plastic pots to prop up the tubing but I can't think of any other disadvantage. Easily reusable, just pull off the Blumat fittings and snip with scissors to a new length. Works fine with the Blumat shutoff valves. I also shove the silicone tubing over the 1/4" barbs on Value Plastics quick disconnects.
 
Last edited:

Ez Rider

Active member
Veteran
I have been using Veg + Bloom RO formula for the last couple of years or so. It works very well with my water, which is about as close to RO as you can get straight from the tap. There is a pretty lengthy thread on here if you're interested - it has it's advocates, and there are people who hate it. I think that it comes down to your base water as to how successful you will be with it.

I use V+B with Drip Clean, and occasionally a bit of epsom for the strains that are mag hogs. At least in my water, it is very pH stable, doesn't drop out of solution, etc all for weeks at a time. I'm frequently gone for a couple of weeks at a time, and with a large enough reservoir (I use the 2-stage arrangement with a small reservoir feeding the Blumats and a large reservoir to top off the little one), it works very well unattended.

I haven't used Pro-Mix, but I used Sunshine Mix #4 for quite a while. The pH was a pain in the ass, amongst other things. I've been using Botanicare Ready-Gro Aeration mix for quite a while now in 5-quart AirPots and love it. Being coco based, you can run it very wet (just short of runoff) and the combination works great.

I've looked at the ready-gro several times, but never tried it. Since it's a mix, do you use it right out of the bag, or do you have to pre-treat it like straight coco? I like the promix, but I'm not getting younger, and those 60lb bales keep feeling heavier. I've been considering a switch, for lighter bags, if nothing else. At first glance, the ready-gro seems like it would be more friendly to blumats too.

What do yo set your feed ph at?

How strong do you run your nutes?

I''m going to start with 1/2 recommended strength and see how it goes.

I finalized my blumat order today, should have them by the weekend :woohoo: FWIW, the blumat guy says PBP should work just fine.

I've currently got plants in 3l pots of pro-mix, that I'll transplant into 8l superoots air pots when I get the blumats. You think I'd be ok to transplant the pro-mix rootballs into ready-gro?
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I've looked at the ready-gro several times, but never tried it. Since it's a mix, do you use it right out of the bag, or do you have to pre-treat it like straight coco? I like the promix, but I'm not getting younger, and those 60lb bales keep feeling heavier. I've been considering a switch, for lighter bags, if nothing else. At first glance, the ready-gro seems like it would be more friendly to blumats too.

What do yo set your feed ph at?

How strong do you run your nutes?

I''m going to start with 1/2 recommended strength and see how it goes.

I finalized my blumat order today, should have them by the weekend :woohoo: FWIW, the blumat guy says PBP should work just fine.

I've currently got plants in 3l pots of pro-mix, that I'll transplant into 8l superoots air pots when I get the blumats. You think I'd be ok to transplant the pro-mix rootballs into ready-gro?

I use it straight out of the bag. I pre-moisten it in a tub to the moisture content that I want in the pots (using nutrient solution), transplant the plant into the air pots and stick in the blumat. I then remove and replace the spike several times, each time filling the hole with straight coco (also moistened) so that there isn't any perlite adjacent to the spike that can interfere with it's ability to sense the surrounding moisture content. I then pinch off the line for several hours to allow everything to equalize and then set the blumat to a clinging drop. This will hold the moisture content that you have established by pre-moistening.

For vegging and the first several weeks of flowering, I run the pH at 5.8-6.0. Toward the end of flowering I run it up to 6.3-6.5.

The strength of the nutes varies with the plant's development and the strain. I usually veg at an EC of 1.0-1.2 and during flowering go up to around 1.6-1.8. I ran some Tsi Fly a while back that I worked up to about 2.2 and they were still wanting more.

I think that the Pro-Mix would work fine transplanted into the Ready-Gro.

Good luck!
 

Ez Rider

Active member
Veteran
I use it straight out of the bag. I pre-moisten it in a tub to the moisture content that I want in the pots (using nutrient solution), transplant the plant into the air pots and stick in the blumat. I then remove and replace the spike several times, each time filling the hole with straight coco (also moistened) so that there isn't any perlite adjacent to the spike that can interfere with it's ability to sense the surrounding moisture content. I then pinch off the line for several hours to allow everything to equalize and then set the blumat to a clinging drop. This will hold the moisture content that you have established by pre-moistening.

For vegging and the first several weeks of flowering, I run the pH at 5.8-6.0. Toward the end of flowering I run it up to 6.3-6.5.

The strength of the nutes varies with the plant's development and the strain. I usually veg at an EC of 1.0-1.2 and during flowering go up to around 1.6-1.8. I ran some Tsi Fly a while back that I worked up to about 2.2 and they were still wanting more.

I think that the Pro-Mix would work fine transplanted into the Ready-Gro.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info:tiphat: I was at the garden store today...picked up a 50l bag of ready-gro, and I had to stop and smile at how light the bag is...SOLD. I'll be potting up into the aeration mix, and running the 10ml/gal PBP mentioned be Folate:tiphat:
 

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